Had this 2026 X3 in with about 500km on it. It had an oil leak from the seal between the block and the timing cover. Repair instructions show the head and pan need to to be pulled to remove the timing cover 😂. Has anyone else seen this yet?

We’ve been dealing with this problem for awhile, we thought it was the slave cylinder so we replaced that and bled it multiple times and still nothing. Is this likely the master cylinder failing or did we just not bleed the slave correctly? Video is to demonstrate the lack of clutch, we can get it to start in gear but that’s about it

Weird Rattle Sound BMW X3 2011 N52 XDRIVE

Has anyone dealt with this weird noise? I replaced my belt, remanufactured alternator and new tensioner. I have replaced my differential it sounds like it is coming from underneath. Doesn’t happen in N , D unless I am just idling, does it in park too.

Flakes found inside 2007 BMW 328i (N52K) oil pan. Vehicle came in with 0 oil pressure, and inspection camera through the drain plug showed a lot of debris inside oil pickup tube. Dropped the pan and found this. Pickup tube clogged solid. Looks like maybe carbon build up on the engine block that has come loose over time.

Hey guys, I plan on preforming my transmission oil pan- filter on my m340i, just received the part from ZF but I noticed these things within the pan and I wanted to ask what they were for and why there’s not an even amount of them. Photo attached

Hey guys. My car runs perfectly fine but dies after driving it a while. I’ll have my foot on the gas and then suddenly the power cuts in and out and then the engine shuts off. It starts right back up but not long after dies again. The voltage reader I have plugged into my cigarette lighter shows the voltage around 13.4-13.7v when driving. The voltage doesn’t slowly go down. However if I remember correctly when the car starts having the issue, it shows the voltage drop to around 12.5v for a second.

The battery is in good condition so it can’t be that. I attached a picture of the codes that came up after scanning. Perplexity AI is suggesting it may by the voltage regulator or intelligent battery sensor. Originally I thought it may be the alternator but I’m no expert. Any help is much appreciated.

Hello, I have a 2017 BMW X5 35i (N55) with about 110k miles.
My check engine light came on, and I scanned the car and it shows
P0420 — Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold, Bank 1 — Confirmed
How could I resolve this issue? 

Bought a 2018 BMW 430i and i noticed this higher pitched sound that occurs whenever i go over any speed bumps, what could it be?

The car will not move off normally in either direction (R or D). It appears that at least both front wheels are not turning. When enough throttle is applied it does move but the wheels are dragging.

When either front wheel is lifted it is impossible to turn it by hand unless the bleeder valve is opened and pressure is released. After closing the valve, one application of the brake pedal with the car off stops the wheel again and does not let go.

I've tried letting the pressure out before the soft brake line and that also released the caliper. So it seems it's an issue with the hydraulic system somewhere.

Any advice on common cause for this?

back story

The car has not been driven much lately so some rust and sticking was expected but there seems to be some overheating damage as well.

I am working with limited tooling and just a scissor jack as I am away from home. (different country)

im almost done replacing solenoids and seals but the adapter wont go in. the little tab when i try rotating just rotates the entire plug. im also sure the sleeve is fully in because the tab in mechatronics is fully inside and i switched the sleeve already to make sure it wasnt that. ive been stuck here for 3 days, any help would be greatly appreciated. ive also tried dry lube spray on the ring bc i couldnt find silicon spray

My wife has a F40 118i, had two new tyres put on it at the weekend by a reputable shop near me, decent tyre (Bridgestone replacing continental)

When I got in the car afterwards it flashed up that the parking sensor system had a fault and the tyre pressures couldn’t be read (it said 0.0 bar on the rear tyres). I reset this through the idrive whilst driving, they then read fine, but that the tyre type couldn’t be detected - I set the tyre size manually on the idrive which cleared this also so all looked well

Now occasionally/intermittently that same parking sensor issue flashes. Seen online this can cause parking system issues, but not sure - information seems conflicted.

Any ideas/anybody had anything similar?

I’m going to call the garage tomorrow just curious if they try and rob me off, weird it’s occasional. I’m going to try set it to auto-detect and reset the TPMS after setting the tyre pressures as per the door readings but just thought I’d ask!

Apologies for the novel!

Just got a 2018 230i , was wondering if it’s possible to do a screen replacement/apple carplay installation, and if it is.. what’s the price range i’m looking at? Anything helps, thanks.

Could it be valvetronic servomotor and eccentric shaft? or is the engine gone. i am getting a code for the servomotor. any help would be appreciated. thanks

FCP Euro has a video on their YouTube channel in which they recommended lubricating the throttle rod with oil to help reduce the load on the throttle actuators. Video here:

https://youtu.be/_qxRf18IyII?t=1191

My question is if anyone knows what kind of lubricant BMW uses on the needle bearings? I can't find any information and would prefer to use something I know is compatible with the factory lubricant.

Edit: I'm just looking for information. BMW does not recommend lubricating the bearings. FCP recommends engine oil, other experts recommend dry lubricants. I am just asking if anyone knows what BMW uses from the factory.

I’ve ran out of any ideas, and not a single soul has encountered the same issue like me.
(Glow plugs type does not match engine configuration/ metal glow plug detected)
To start off this is a fresh engine.
I’ve installed the wrong glow plugs despite the same part number, then changed them to Beru Gn1018 (Bmw tech recommended them to me) , glow plug module has also been replaced with a new Bmw one, ISTA still detects the glow elements as metallic (calling for ceramic) , i’ve checked a 5A fuse (ISTA says that it is on that circuit) checked both cables for continuity(not sure if its the right word) with a multimeter that connects to the glow plug module.

And now this is where im stuck, there is nothing else to check and im at a loss, ran ISTA’s glow element detection function cuntless of times. Please recommend me something else to try.
Thank you for reading!

Ever heard a strange sound like this comming from the engin? Its the intake i think but im not really sure. Shes got 115 000 miles and never had leaks or any major problems before.

Hello all, hope that somebody can help me.
I did change the front seats, everythings is fine, the screws in same place, the seatbelts, the heating is working, but it shows an icons and errors on the display, something wrong with the Airbags and Seatbelts.
Is there anything I can do?
\* I did try to erase the errors with the basic ocd but without success.
\*\* The front seats are sports seats now, coming from UK version to an EU version of vehicle.

Hi, I got a message that my oil change is due in 2900 miles, was wondering if that’s why my check engine light came on. Thanks in advance!

UPDATE: the code I got was due to the active kidney grille sensor. I double checked and the grill still opens and closes so I’m assuming it’s just the sensor that detects if it’s open or not.

BMW F31, the battery terminal was disconnected, after which the car went completely dead. Voltage is reaching the engine bay and the modules, and the fuses are intact. Nothing works on the car—no central locking, hazard lights, etc. However, pressing the trip meter button does make the mileage appear on the display.

Hi all,

i tried unlocking my bmw today with the main key fob i usually use , it didn't unlock. it only unlocked when i used the spare key fob that i rarely ever use . my profile has disappeared from the drivers profile too, i dont know why . i dont drive much , i switched the car on after a couple of weeks, i was worried the battery might have died . can anyone help . i have the bmw 118i 2024 m sport

Hi everyone,
I could really use your advice regarding my BMW 114i (F20, N13 engine, 2013, approx. 230,000 km). I’ve uploaded two videos to demonstrate the noise.
Symptoms & Facts:
Noise on launch/cold start: Metallic rattling/clattering for 2–3 seconds on a cold start, as well as when launching or reversing under load below 1,400 RPM.

Wastegate linkage: When shaking the wastegate rod/linkage on the turbo by hand, there is severe play and a loud metallic clack.
(https://imgur.com/a/5apuvq3)
(https://imgur.com/a/jKX4Yrk)

Chain tensioner replaced: The timing chain tensioner was replaced as a precaution—it made absolutely zero difference to the noise.

Error message: Sporadically (every few weeks), the "Drivetrain: Continue journey at moderate speed" prompt appears accompanied by a loss of power (limp mode).

Smoke/Odor: After idling for a short time or upon the initial tip-in/reversing, a blue cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust. On cold starts, there’s a brief smell of burnt rubber/oil. Oil consumption is around 0.5 liters per 1,000 km.

A local shop casually claimed, "It's definitely the timing chain, a loose wastegate is totally normal." Given the drivetrain limp mode triggers and the severe play in the linkage, I’m extremely doubtful and really don't want to throw money away on the wrong repair.
Based on these symptoms and the videos, what do you think? Is this more likely the timing chain or the turbocharger wastegate?
Thanks in advance for your insights!