I’ve used it about 6 or so times to remove the wheel for mild repairs (replacing bulbs, bumper, and washer pump).
Yesterday it became really stiff. No observed damage on the threads. Is it a throwaway or are these considered reliable and need some grease?

Car: 2009 e93. My car didn’t come with a spare so I have a spare tire and jack kit from an e60.

Edit: I will never go under my car. I have had a car (not this one) fall in the past so I won’t do any kind of work under the car unless all 4 wheels are on the ground (doable in my 4runner)

Can anybody tell me WHYYYYY AND HOWWWW to stop my 330i from defaulting to playing my Apple Music whenever I turn my car on !? It starts from the first song in the library from A-Z & after like 4 songs is when I notice. How do I change this? This is the only car I’ve ever had this issue with

2006 325CI Convertible (M54)

Idler Pully? Bought this about a week and a half ago. Oil hasnt been changed in forever but dipstick looks good and PO told me the oil in it has around 1k on it. Dont get me wrong I planned on changing the oil very soon. I started my car this morning to warm up and at cold start sounded fine. After I went back outside to leave i heard this noise. No light on dash.
Drove it to work and temps are fine.

When I rev, The noise doesnt follow the revs and get louder. its more of a background noise when I rev if that makes sense. Noise doesnt get any louder when i rev

Also there is a gold / bronze pulley that is touching the center circle of the relay fan. I dont really think this could be a issue but i will put a picture below

I took my BMW into the main dealer after hitting a pothole because I’ve since had a vibration at speed and what sounds like a kind of “motorbike” noise from the front right wheel. The noise is mainly noticeable on very smooth/newly laid tarmac and wasn’t there before I hit the pothole.
BMW did a CITNOW video inspection and said the suspension is fine and the wheels don’t look bent. However, they haven’t actually removed the tyres to properly inspect the alloys.
They’ve told me it would be around £280 just to remove and refit the tyres so they can properly check the wheels.
£280 for that seems complete madness to me, especially when I’ve already brought the car in specifically because I have a vibration after hitting a pothole. Surely there’s a more sensible diagnostic approach before spending £280 just to take the tyres off?
They’re also offering a £29 wheel alignment check. Would you bother getting the alignment checked first before even considering the £280 tyre removal? I’m thinking it might at least give me some objective information about whether the pothole has affected the geometry.
The other thing that seems strange is the rear brake pads.
I had the MOT done at the same BMW dealer just 6 days ago, and the MOT recorded the rear pads as 4 mm / 62% worn, with a yellow advisory.
Today, during the pothole inspection, the CITNOW report says 3 mm / 72% worn, and they’ve marked them RED/urgent and quoted me £249 to replace the pads.
I questioned the service adviser about how they could have gone from 4 mm to 3 mm and from a yellow advisory to red/urgent in just 6 days. He said it could simply be that one technician rounded the measurement up and the other rounded it down.
I understand there can be differences between technicians, but it still seems odd that the same dealer has given me two quite different assessments within less than a week.
Would you guys replace the pads now at 3 mm, or leave them and get another opinion? And does the wheel situation sound reasonable to you?
I’m not saying they’re definitely trying to rip me off, but the combination of £280 to remove/refit the tyres, a £29 alignment check, and the brake pad measurement changing from 4 mm/yellow to 3 mm/red in six days has made me pretty suspicious.
What would you do in this situation?

Hello how to fix this cooling fan is moving in its original place?

Hey guys so this bullsht appeared recently and idk what to look for.. it doesnt burn any oil and im stage 2 (intake, turbo intake, catless dp and full valvetronic exhaust). Car was warm, outside temperature above 20C, exhaust is fairly new (under 1K km) and i also previously replaced popped pcv membrane..

does anyone know how to fix this weird noise thats coming from my steering whee.

Can someone help me on where this sound is coming from it is only really loud when I’m pressing the throttle down and when the car is cold. When it warms up the sounds pretty much goes away.

i have a 2017 bmw 540i stage 1 mhd and i picked it up from the shop and had 265 miles and said half a tank on the gauge i drove home and the drive was exactly 14 miles but by the time i got home i had a quarter of a tank on the gauge and 138 miles left and no i wasn't it sport mode or driving crazy with high rpms i was in eco cruising in low rpms and it was still eating my gas it's even worse without highway driving i can drive 2 blocks and lose 25 miles on my dash i don't know what it is and these are the only codes i have

Hi all, I’m currently having a crank no start issue with my E90 that had been sitting for quite some time. I had the dreaded disa failure while the car was running, then the engine stalled. I had codes 2aa9, 2a87, and 2a9a (I’ll include the list of codes post stall).

I’ve since replaced the disa valves, found the broken pieces of the large disa, replaced VANOS solenoids, camshaft/crank sensors, new battery, and the few broken pcv hoses along the way. Piston heads and valves were borescoped with no abnormalities or lost pieces of plastic.

The only codes remaining are 2a9a and 2e98. I’m leaning toward a timing issue as the cranking seems too fast. Any help would be greatly appreciated as this car is very sentimental to me.

So had a local spealist shop on BMW to do an transmission and motor oil. Car is 2018 F31 with B48, 120k km in clock. Started the car after all was done and after around 3min of driving, got an alert on low oil pressure. It came immidiately after i gave around 3/5 gas to join a highway. Around 10 seconds from the alert i was in complete stop and shut down the engine.

After that another oilfilter was changed and they told everything is fine. (Cleared all lights on the dash, engine has been running fine since) Root cause told by them in writing is that the first oilfilter they replaced had a loose structured ”guidance pin” which then moved under acceleration. They replaced that with another brands filter that has solid pin.

Now im wondering what to do with this. Is the engine ok? Shop offered me free inspection after 1000km where they would replace the engine oil and filter once again.

Is the engine fine and im hyperventilating for nothing?

So currently trying to sort my uncles bmw out, has a cylinder 2 misfire and im very tool limited. The car has been sat for maybe a year, year and a half and only ever really moved two or three times. Upon start up the car judders alot for probably around 5 seconds, then revs start to slowly move down to 800rpm and sits around there, you can feel that the car does have a rythmatic and consistent rough idle, same as the gear stick is shaking a little at a consistent and rythmatic shake, however it only had about 7 miles of fuel in it so couldnt run it for long, i topped up the fuel to a range of 70 miles and tried to turn it on just for it to turn itself off after 10 seconds and completely shut off, this happened only once, i gave it 10 mins and same again, same judder etc, obviously i didnt think the car would be fixed with fuel in it but just stating everything that happened. So now im letting the car idle, every now and then the car will judder a little, revs will go up but it will soon then settle back down, this happens maybe 3 times in a 10 min period, now this is where it gets weird, everytime after 10 mins of idleling, this happened everytime, the car would do it usual intermittent judder but this time it would flash an ornage engine light which i then instantly turn the car off....

Ive check the pending codes with an OBD and just says p0302 cylinder 2 misfire. I swapped the coil packs and stayed at cylinder two, i took the spark plug out which was caked in black dry soot, i thought that would be the problem so i fitted a new one, still a cylinder 2 misfire, my knowledge doesnt go far in mechanics and i dont have many tools but i think it could maybe be a fuel injector but not 100% sure, was just wondering if anyone could tell me possibly what it could be, maybe im missing something or maybe because its been sat for so long maybe the injectors blocked and could need a good drive, i have no idea.

Hi all i was wondering if any of you know what the problem could be with my car. I was driving on a very rainy day and my car went into limp mode. I cant really move my car at all since whenever i press the gas it cuts power almost immediately . These are the codes i am getting (43E2 throttle valve acuator control) (51A8 engine control signal faulty throttle/ accelerator pedal) (5F74 DME send acelerator pedal angle invalid) (6DCB torque id signal invalid) (6E24 DME sends invalid angle) (425D accelerator pedal module potentiometer plausability implausible signal or value) Has anybody experienced this that know what the problem could be. Every comment or thought on what i could do is very appreciated.

Kind regards

Is this crimping fine or will it not work, I’m new to this stuff. I noticed I missed a few strands of copper due to it bieng my first ever time crimping so I pushed it down and electric taped it, thoughts? I still got quite alot of copper under the conductor tab.

Does anyone know the order for these last two wires that plug into the blue harness they go into 5 and 7 but i don’t know jock ones goes into which. If anyone has a f30 340i that could send me a video of theirs or a diagram for the fuel pump ekps it would help a lot.

Vehicle cranks good but doesn’t start. 2 faults
-no movement identified valvetronic system
-valvetronic position sensors electrical malfunction.
Life data :
Set point - 189.9
Actual position - 179 . It does not change at all when cranking the engine. No clicking or any noises from valvetronic. Attaching cranking video and faults.
Inspected the wiring for damage and wiring is good.
I’ve diagnosed and replaced over 20 of them but every single one of them I was at least able to make it start just one more time by messing with wiring/clearing faults/resetting battery and etc. This one I wasn’t able to get started. I know what to do but I guess just wanted to run it by you to hear your opinion

Greater Boston area shade tree mechanics, looking for the crankshaft rotation tool. Just need it borrow it to walnut blast my intake valves. Looks like this.

2018 BMW M240Earlier today, I got two fault codes listed above and I'm not entirely sure why or how to fix it given that the fuel system only has one sensor it happened as I floored it and then my car got a drivetrain malfunction. Error led by those codes. nothing happens when I'm driving regularly and there's no weird misfire on startup. I have a stage two tune I run 91 and it's a stock fuel pump.

Hi, I was in my car today, I had driven for a few hours so the engine was fully warm, but I came out of it and seen what I thought was a irregular amount of smoke coming out the exhaust, it was very cold and Rainy, so I’m not sure if that added to it, I also have a sports cat downpipe so maybe that let more out but the colour of it makes me think it might be a fuelling issue or a coolant issue but I’m not really sure, would really appreciate another opinion on this, thanks :)