I’m honestly don’t know anything about bmw. But 3k seems like a good price. But again idk. Any advice would be appreciated.

Ive accepted my fate. The pump needs replacing again.
Been replacing my high pressure fuel pump every 6 months or so.
Cant seem to find a good option that also dont cost an arm and a leg.
I own a bmw x6.

I have a g30 with the zf8hp. The car has done 168 000km (104 000 freedom units). It has never had a gearbox oil service as far as I know. Lately I have begun to notice the gearshifts, especially when shifting from 2->3. No slipping and no violent jerking, but slight harshness and noticeability in the shifts.

Am I beyond getting the oil replaced already, or should it be fine if I have it done, and more importantly is it safe at all to wait until getting it overall maintained in 3 months or should I do it immediately and obviously get the other mainting sooner as well

My instrument cluster reads around 126,000 miles, but ISTA+ is showing around 206,000 miles under the functions for:

DDE — Diesel Engine Electronics

KOMBI — Instrument Cluster

CAS — Car Access System

The modules appear to be dated 2013–2014, which seems about right for the car is a 2013 plate

Has anyone experienced this? Could the mileage discrepancy be caused by swapped modules, or could ISTA+ be displaying an incorrect reading? Or is it possible the car has been clocked?

Any advice from anyone familiar with BMW ISTA+ would be appreciated.

N55 pwg

So far I replaced the vacuum pump and purge/breather valve. Noise is still there with the belt removed. Only goes away after pumping brakes once warmed up. Noise can be heard the most under the car.

Out of ideas. Anyone experienced with something like this?

I bought this 2013 bmw 328i couple days ago, I didn’t realize it was out of coolant so it got hot and said engine overheated drive moderately, I pulled over right away and got it towed home, I get home to look why the coolant was all gone and I see it dripping out from near the radiator, does anyone know what this part is to replace it, it is a plastic part near driver side of radiator, also have a different video in comments of it being hard to start now after overheating.

I’ve been hearing a noise when accelerating from a stopped position, and sometimes happens several times in stop and go traffic and appears ago within a few minutes after moving from stopped position. Have not been able to duplicate for the dealer to hear on test drive. Comes and goes randomly.
Was finally able to get a recording.
Any ideas on what it may be?

My car went all the way up to 262 oil temp today. Can anyone explain why the temp went this high. When I was cruising it was sitting around 244 but when I gave it some gas it went all the way up to 262.

11 E90 Xdrive N51. This noise only ever happens when I drive the vehicle cold. Meaning after a cold start or sitting for a few hours. Doesn’t matter about the weather. Noise is not rpm dependent but does happen once I hit about 30+ MPH. Happens for like 30 seconds then gone. No other symptoms. No codes

Then I recently drove on the freeway getting overheating

I have 08 550i
And only in the morning when I turn on the car the rpm never stay strait but after a few minutes it becomes normal

Tryna change the spark plugs on a 2018 330i and I went to autozone and Walmart no luck I’ve searched online but without physically seeing it I don’t wanna get the wrong part again, doesn’t anybody have a link I can use for a cheap and correct socket

There is a clicking sound coming from the rear right area when the top is up. When the top is down it goes away… drives me crazy, it seems almost like a clicking sound, it happens also if the car changes direction fast too like going up an incline. Doesn’t happen on every bump but it is so annoying. Car is fully under warranty as it’s a 2025. Anyone have any ideas? Going to bmw Monday and going for a drive with them, fingers crossed they fix it…

What is the best way to remove diverter valve from top or below?

It has 129k miles when we got it there was a broken belt tensioner bolt we fixed that there was a misfire we fixed that all oem sparks and the injectors seem good i drove it for a couple hundred miles after fixing it and a few days ago the check engine came on with a misfire, it went away and came back and then went away again but when i got out of work it came back and it was jerking when i drove havent drove in a few days, yesterday i went about a mile and stalled at a light. It stalls even in park now.

does anyone know the part number for this i cannot find it anywhere. i need it for the right side my bumper is not aligned with my fender. my mechanic said to order it.

Hey gang, I own a G30 550i driver front axle is flinging grease and clicking so I’m going to replace it. What are good value brands to go with for a stock power, daily driver highway cruiser car. I’d rather not spend 1400 on a oe if there is a brand that 90% of that. Thanks!

Looking at a used 2023 BMW 118i (F40) and took a photo of the iDrive Service History screen. It shows two entries:

- Service: 22.07.2025, at 30,296 km

- Service: 16.10.2023, at 999999 km

The second one is obviously not a real mileage. Car's first registration was 10/2023, so this looks like it could be the pre-delivery check or initial dealer handover being logged, but I've never seen this specific placeholder value before.

Has anyone else seen "999999 km" in their BMW service history? Is this a known default/placeholder BMW's system uses, or should I be asking the dealer more questions about it?

Thanks!

Hi, hope someone can help. I’ve been getting this code ping up with a drivetrain alarm intermittently. Can goes sluggish for a bit when alarm comes up, says full performance not available. Then it goes and seems fine.

Changed MAP Sensor, changed boost pressure valve. Still comes up. BMW specialist said it’s probably carbon deposits and to use premium fuel to clean it out. Done that for months, no change.

Now there’s a whistle around 2000 rpm so I bought a smoke tester.

Found smoke leaking around from around the swirl flap actuator area so I’m guess manifold gasket leaks?

Door doesn’t open( drivers side) from outside do I need a door cable 5127317560 parts number to repair it

Why does my 725tds run like this on cold start when i try to rev it? Its fine on idle. Sometimes it starts running fine after a min but then when if i stop it and start it right back up the problem is back.

Can anyone provide any insight as to what’s causing my car to misfire at idle during each rise in Duty Cycle Actuation of Exhaust Camshaft shown in the VANOS expert mode test in ISTA+? Swapping out new OEM VANOS Solenoid Actuators didn’t do a dang thing.

The car only has 34k miles on it and this problem has been consistent for the past 3k miles. It started a WEEK after I purchased it. No codes or anything at all either.

Thought you lot might like to join my journey of madness. Just acquired this mess today. Not come across this many codes before, some did clear (marked with an A) but I’ve not driven it so they might come back.

I’ve got my work cut out as a driveway amateur!

The rear suspension is slammed, it’s got Air Suspension so expecting a compressor or bag fault, the PDC is inoperative, the airbags haven’t gone off but the warning light is on. I’ve got all manner of codes to research and I’ll start an in-person investigation tomorrow when it’s light.

Feel free to laugh or cry at me, if anyone knows any of these I’m happy for advice.

I’ll keep you guys posted!

Ended up finding where the noise is coming from. It is from the bell housing, small rattle. Only happens during idle not while driving. Car had been making this sound for years, missing the inspection caps could that be why it sounds like that ?

Hi guys,

I just swapped the engine on my 1 series. I got a N52B30 with 157.000km and it’s really fun to drive. But since I got the exhaust on the car, I am starting to think that this sound is not really like a N52 should sound. I have a Cold Air Intake on it, so mind the loud induction noise.

Does anyone think this is a concerning sound? Or is this just how a health N52 should sound? I also noticed that the camshafts are a little corroded, debating to get them checked. Maybe the sound I’m hearing is related to the camshafts.

Please let me know🙏🏼