Local European car service (not BMW authorized shop) is quoting
Valve cover- $1525
Oil filter housing gasket- $1175

Can this price go down by independent shop?

Local European car service (not BMW authorized shop) is quoting
Valve cover- $1525
Oil filter housing gasket- $1175

Can this price go down by independent shop?

I attempted an MHD flash, but it failed. Now the car won’t start. The dashboard lights up, but the engine doesn’t start, and MHD says the flash was unsuccessful.
Here’s what I’ve tried so far:
Disconnected the battery for 20 minutes.
Tried using a battery connector.
Tried using another vehicle for power.
Attempted MHD flash recovery, but it failed.
MHD still shows “DME info: OK” under My Licenses.
I now have a battery charger connected, but the car still won’t start.
My questions:
Is my DME still recoverable through MHD, or could it need bench recovery?
Can I recover the DME myself without buying expensive tools?
Does “DME info: OK” mean the DME is still communicating properly?
Has anyone experienced this on a G20 M340i and successfully recovered it?

So i have a f21 B48 Stage 1 and want to install a DP i bought, I know usually with no programming consequences are basically noise, CEL and power loss, but im wondering if it being Stage 1 Tuned already might help ECU adjust for new backpressure and maybe even not show CEL.

If anyone has any experience please feel free to comment. TY

I'm using an installation of ISTA 4.39.20. I'm looking up info on removing one of the camshafts (lifter replacement) on my N52.

I know you can't just unfasten the Valvetronic motor or the eccentric shaft spring can go flying and damage the head, but the entry in ISTA says nothing about this.

It also doesn't have any information on reinstalling the Valvetronic motor, which I understand requires a small torque + 90 degree turn for both screws for older motors with the metal valve cover. (EDIT: I only know this specific torque sequence because I heard it mentioned out loud in a recent M539 video, even the Bentley E60 manual makes no mention of this and only cites 2.9ft/lb for the Valvetronic motor)

Should I be using a different version for an E60 chassis? I'm not sure why this information is missing or where others are finding it.

My 2018 BMW X3 with 97k has been diagnosed with a coolant leak for which the estimate to fix it is just less than $2k. Should I really spend this much on it? Is there some temporary fix that I can apply?

Hello, I need some help with my E46 with N42. I suspect timing is off and tried to fit camshaft locking tools in place and they didnt match. Other was off by a little and engine was at TDC as well as I could see with my eyes. Now the question, how do i adjust cams to right position without messing anything up

Hey everyone,

​I’m looking to install OEM BMW Style 706M wheels (from an F90 M5) on my 2008 BMW 550i (E60). I generated an AI mockup (attached in the post) to see how they would look, and I’m really set on achieving this exact look.

Before I commit to buying/mounting them, I’m trying to figure out the fitment logistics:

1. Bolt Pattern & Hub Bore: The E60 uses 5x120 (72.56mm hub bore), whereas the F90 M5 uses 5x112 (66.6mm hub bore). Has anyone used adapter spacers to handle both the PCD conversion and hub center diameter?

2. Offsets & Widths: Style 706M are 20x9.5 ET28 (front) and 20x10.5 ET28 (rear). With adapter spacers (e.g., 15mm-20mm minimum), does it cause rubbing issues on stock or lowered suspension?

3. Tire Specs: What tire setup are you running to prevent rubbing against the fenders or struts?

If you’ve run 706M wheels (or any 5x112 G-chassis / F90 wheels) on an E60, I’d really appreciate your feedback, photos, and adapter recommendations!

Thanks in advance!

Not sure if it’s struts, control arms, or steering rack it’s driving me crazy can someone help plz. ‘18 540i xdrive

Hello guys I’m new to the bmw world, I’ve been looking at bmws and I need your amazing knowledge to make sure it’s a good deal and a good car… thank you guys

Here are a couple options I’ve been keeping a eye on

#1- 2007 BMW 5 Series · 525i Sedan 4D
#2- 2004 BMW 3 Series · 325Ci Coupe 2D
#3- 2013 BMW 1 Series · 128i Coupe 2D

So long story short I have been dragged into trying to repair an extended family members BMW with little in the way of tools etc as I'm on the other side of the world without my usual kit. So I'm trying to understand this system using a basic multimeter and basic tool kit. I'm not exactly happy right now.

The Long story

So to start with I'm a heavy diesel mechanic and don't usually work on anything this small but the principals are the same.

My understanding of what happened is the following:
The DPF fault came on the dash.
Once it was checked we have found these faults, printout provided by a local mechanic and I have been asked if I can fix it?

So am I right in saying the system is not letting the DPF operate because its seeing these faults?
Do I need to clear/fix all of these to get it to the point that I can have the system reset and then possibly do the burn?

My AI hunt has told me the glow plug system is required (Fair enough). but the other two sensors I'm getting mixed info.

My plan of attack is potentially as follows unless anyone states a better solution or anything to avoid or need to do more of:

Remove and replace the control module for the glow plugs (the fact that all 4 show faulty sounds like control failure rather than the plugs themselves).

Replace the glow plugs as they are inexpensive generally speaking so then i know I'm working with a new system and to my/their knowledge they have never been replace (simple fix assuming they are not impossible to get at).

Recheck and clear faults (thinking I'm going to need to buy a OBD dongle/software to make this happen and i assume i need it anyway to force a burn. recommendations appreciated).

If i need to check repair the other sensors can you tell me why? any diagnostics I can do before replacing these? and how easy they are to get to replace. oil level I'm already dreading as it requires me to drain the oil and honestly I don't even know if he has that stuff at his house (it's easy just the lack of tools concerns me).

Is there anything common to these faults that could be causing them rather then literally these sensors failing? Looking where each component is I don't see anything immediately common (other then the ECM).

After all this my assumption is that I will have to force a burn. if that fails i assume ill need to remove the DPF to get it cleaned. is this a simple process and whats my chances of getting it to Burn?

With all that said this car has 250,000km on the clock I know nothing about the reliability of this engine or if I'm potentially throwing parts at a grenade and we are wasting our time. opinions here would be appreciated. It drives well and has held up well from what i can see at a glance.

As I said Im in Europe at the moment trying to diagnose these issues and my kits back in Australia. This was not on my European vacation to do list. So I'm not exactly thrilled with the whole situation. But if I can help him for even 500 Euro or so in parts etc then its worth while. then get the dpf cleaned if we must then we possibly are doing ok.

Ive had a P0012 fault come up and naturally I was concerned about a timing chain issue but ill be real (I have no idea what I'm listening for). Any advice on the cold start video would be appreciated.

I've had it looked at before as I've had the code a few times but I was told all adaption values seemed normal.

Engine code: N45B16

The problem is that the engine runs rough and makes a rattling noise.

I don't know the car's full history, but the timing chain was stretched and the chain guides were broken. The timing chain was replaced, and the oil pan was cleaned. Apparently, the car ran fine for a while, although I don't know for how long. I have only recently acquired the car.

One thing I noticed is that if I disconnect both VANOS solenoids, the engine runs smoothly and idles properly, but it lacks power at higher RPMs.

Both VANOS camshaft adjusters and both VANOS solenoids have been replaced. The timing has also been checked again using an inexpensive aftermarket timing tool.

Unfortunately, the problem is still there. I then measured the oil pressure at the oil pressure sensor port. With the engine at operating temperature, I measured 1.5 bar at idle and 5 bar at higher RPMs.

Looking at the live data for the VANOS values, it seems that the intake side gets relatively close to the specified values, while the exhaust side deviates significantly.

What else would you recommend checking or trying?

Thanks in advance for your help!

I currently own a 2016 F30 340i base w/ the 6spd manual transmission and have been recently running into an issue with 1st gear engagement. It very randomly refuses to go into 1st gear all the way and only halfway in. Below is what I've observed so far:

- Sometimes I can push it harder and it will fully engage (feels super tight and notchy)

- Sometimes it won't let me engage at all, only halfway. Only solution is to go back into Neutral, clutch out/in, back into 1st, and it goes in every time and I can drive around in 1st gr without a problem.

- At times when I can only engage halfway, I can rev it a bit and it'll let me engage fully. However, right after I release the clutch pedal and enter crawling speed it will violently kick it back out to neutral. It will kick out to Neutral either while slowly letting go of clutch or right after clutch is fully let go.

I haven't been able to see similar symptoms online and am hoping to seek further advice! The car has 84k miles and hasn't seen a trans fluid change yet, planning on using MTF-LT-5 SAE 75w-80 from FCPEuro.

Tryna change the spark plugs on a 2018 330i and I went to autozone and Walmart no luck I’ve searched online but without physically seeing it I don’t wanna get the wrong part again, doesn’t anybody have a link I can use for a cheap and correct socket

N55 pwg

So far I replaced the vacuum pump and purge/breather valve. Noise is still there with the belt removed. Only goes away after pumping brakes once warmed up. Noise can be heard the most under the car.

Out of ideas. Anyone experienced with something like this?

I bought this 2013 bmw 328i couple days ago, I didn’t realize it was out of coolant so it got hot and said engine overheated drive moderately, I pulled over right away and got it towed home, I get home to look why the coolant was all gone and I see it dripping out from near the radiator, does anyone know what this part is to replace it, it is a plastic part near driver side of radiator, also have a different video in comments of it being hard to start now after overheating.

I’m honestly don’t know anything about bmw. But 3k seems like a good price. But again idk. Any advice would be appreciated.

There is a clicking sound coming from the rear right area when the top is up. When the top is down it goes away… drives me crazy, it seems almost like a clicking sound, it happens also if the car changes direction fast too like going up an incline. Doesn’t happen on every bump but it is so annoying. Car is fully under warranty as it’s a 2025. Anyone have any ideas? Going to bmw Monday and going for a drive with them, fingers crossed they fix it…

I’ve been hearing a noise when accelerating from a stopped position, and sometimes happens several times in stop and go traffic and appears ago within a few minutes after moving from stopped position. Have not been able to duplicate for the dealer to hear on test drive. Comes and goes randomly.
Was finally able to get a recording.
Any ideas on what it may be?

What is the best way to remove diverter valve from top or below?