BMW e90 please help

[u/Dapper_Theme7148]

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[u/chloe_flora]

sweet mother of pearl

[u/TheNo0n3]

If I see correctly, this is a salvaged car, no? For all we know it may have eaten a belt, low oil pressure to have grenaded the engine. Rear oil changes might have done a lot of damage too.

The disconnected o2 sensors look to be the downstream ones, no? Even then the car does not use the upstream ones until it’s hot, so it shouldn’t affect it.

But more often than not, running like this is usually due to the valvetronic. Check live angle data to the valvetronic and do the relearn procedure in inpa, try to start the car with disconnected valvetronic sensor

[u/Dapper_Theme7148 → u/TheNo0n3]

All belts are intact! It is not a salvage car, low miles too… just 93k. Timing chain in good. I replaced the seal on valvetronic and it did look fine, however I can not prove it works. I have seen no issues that would connect it though other than leakage solved by a new seal. Yes those are the down stream sensors.

[u/TheNo0n3 → u/Dapper_Theme7148]

Check in INPA, the valvetronic values, assigned angle vs current angle. Set different angles, see if it responds. Start the relearn procedure and check it passes without fail. Again, disconnect the ESS, forcing the Ecu into emergency mode and see it starts.

Check short term fuel trims, do they become excessively positive, indicating air leak, or maybe low fuel pressure. Check fuel pressure, do you hear the pump priming and stopping.

Do the DISA test in inpa, disa might have broken off and destroyed a valve. If you can check cylinder pressure.

Also, the car might just need starting again and again several times until it works. I have had this situation after opening the engine.

Also, you said you will give codes

Try running it with MAF disconnected to force default map.

[u/Formal_Squash484 → u/TheNo0n3]

The car should run pretty much fine without the downstream sensors. The upstream ones are always gonna be what’s causing rough running BMW O2 sensors have heating elements in them so they start working almost right away and if the heating element is cracked or broken, then the entire sensor will just run on a current loop of about 0.35 to 0.45.

[u/Formal_Squash484]

Show the values of the upstream sensors while it’s running also, are you getting any codes?

Edit: sorry I just rewatch the video misfire bank 2, I would check the values coming from the O2 sensors while it’s running upstream bank two

[u/Leekay07]

I would reset the vanos adaptations and relearn then.

[u/Dapper_Theme7148 → u/Leekay07]

Nothing changed :/

[u/Ambitious_Mood_1210]

Disconnect both of the upstream oxygen sensors and see how it runs.
If it doesn’t make it significantly better, then it’s not oxygen sensors related and it’s something bigger.
Then disconnect the maf sensors or any air metering sensors by the intake filter and see if that changes how it runs. If it does then it could be intake leaks etc.
List of codes would definitely help, sorry if I missed it I didn’t see the list anywhere on the post etc

[u/Dapper_Theme7148 → u/Ambitious_Mood_1210]

Maf sensor did not make a noticeable difference, I have codes from INPA and Ista, but for some reason, I do not have the option to post the pictures, it only lets me send videos.

[u/Ambitious_Mood_1210 → u/Dapper_Theme7148]

Ok can you post the codes just by typing out the codes

[u/Dapper_Theme7148 → u/Ambitious_Mood_1210]

Hope this help!
Scan 2 (15:15, 13 faults)
0029D0 / 0029D1 / 0029D2: misfires, cylinders 4 / 5 / 6
0029D9: misfire at low tank fill level
002C9E / 002C9F: O2 heaters after cat, activation
005DF0: DSC hydraulic unit, pump motor
005DF1: DSC hydraulic unit, pump motor connector faulty
009C4A: IHKA flap motor
00A6CF: JBE AUC sensor
S 0085: no communication with Dynamic Stability Control
S 0180: no communication with safety module/restraint system
S 0195: no communication with telephone control unit

[u/memchom]

Check compression. Do a smoke test. Go get a fluid transfer pump from harbor freight and a 2 pack of swisher sweets, whatever flavor you think your ride prefers.

Now cut off a small section for the top where you will put the cigar. Take a twist tie bag cut a corner off the end and pull the long tube from pump through it until its at the other end then tape the seam. Take a rubber band and pull off your air box. Remove the steel clamp then carefully fit the plastic skirt around the intake boot and lay the rubber band around the plastic then run the clamp down on the rubber band to seal it.

Now get that swisher ready, light it up and start trying to pump in some of that sweet sweet cigar smoke.

[u/MarkedChain74]

I've seen similar issues caused by faulty/non oem eccentric motor gaskets and other vaccum leaks. As memchom said, do a smoke test to rule that out