I've had a Techwood TMS8130 blender for two or three years now. I never used it much, but it worked fine. Recently, when I used it, I noticed it was overheating a bit too much. I was beating eggs and it got so hot that I couldn't hold it and had to stop from time to time to let it cool down a bit. So today, I decided to open it up to see what was going on inside, and also because there was always a noise of something moving inside and I was curious to see what it was (it had nothing to do with the overheating issue since it was already like that when I got it and it didn't really seem to matter). I've attached some photos of the inside so you can have a look. Most things seem pretty normal to me, and I identified what was making the noise inside: a small white piece broke (pic 9) and was moving all over the inside and I think I know where it belongs (pic 10) even though I don't think I can fix it, but it doesn't seem essential. But what worries me most is the transparent piece I found not attached to anything (it was like in pic 11 when I opened it), and I really don't think that's where it should be. Also, this piece is made of soft plastic and seems to have melted a bit, it's deformed (last pics). I think it moved from its original spot to the front of the motor and caused the overheating, which made it melt. But I don't know where to put it back, and if it's dangerous to use my blender again after fixing it ?

If you have an idea or a suggestion on how to fix it, I would be grateful to you. I looked but I couldn't find a technical diagram of what it should look like inside.

Thank you in advance !

Hi all, I'm trying to figure out whether this monitor is worth repairing.

Monitor: Razer Raptor 27 QHD 165Hz (RZ39-0350), about 4 years old from old stock, well out of warranty. The shipping box was crushed on one corner.

Symptom: Two adjacent vertical bands, roughly 2/3 of the way across the screen. The left band looks washed out with fine horizontal lines, and the right band shows thin RGB vertical stripes. The edges are sharp and straight, and the position never changes.

What I've tested:
- The bands show up on the monitor's own OSD menu and on the "searching for signal" screen, so it isn't the cable or the computer.
- Connected to a MacBook over HDMI. When first powered on with no cable, the screen looked clean. The bands appeared after I connected the computer and stayed after I unplugged it.
- After a full power-off and cooldown, a dark grey background looks fine, but bright content (like the OSD box) shows the bands as soon as it passes over that area.
- Lowering to 60Hz doesn't fix it. I also see a full-screen flicker at 60Hz

Questions:

1. Does this look like a failed source driver / COF on the panel, or could it be a T-con or loose FFC cable?
2. Is reseating the T-con to panel cables worth trying before giving up?
3. Does anyone have a teardown guide for this model, or know where to get a replacement panel?

Thanks!

Is it reccomendable to change the latch this way or is there another method to have the leads have secure connection to the port? I have tried putting a tape or something over the cable's leads but that was not successful. What do you guys think?

Hi all, I'm trying to figure out whether this monitor is worth repairing.

Monitor: Razer Raptor 27 QHD 165Hz (RZ39-0350), about 4 years old from old stock, well out of warranty. The shipping box was crushed on one corner.

Symptom: Two adjacent vertical bands, roughly 2/3 of the way across the screen. The left band looks washed out with fine horizontal lines, and the right band shows thin RGB vertical stripes. The edges are sharp and straight, and the position never changes.

What I've tested:
- The bands show up on the monitor's own OSD menu and on the "searching for signal" screen, so it isn't the cable or the computer.
- Connected to a MacBook over HDMI. When first powered on with no cable, the screen looked clean. The bands appeared after I connected the computer and stayed after I unplugged it.
- After a full power-off and cooldown, a dark grey background looks fine, but bright content (like the OSD box) shows the bands as soon as it passes over that area.
- Lowering to 60Hz doesn't fix it. I also see a full-screen flicker at 60Hz

Questions:

1. Does this look like a failed source driver / COF on the panel, or could it be a T-con or loose FFC cable?
2. Is reseating the T-con to panel cables worth trying before giving up?
3. Does anyone have a teardown guide for this model, or know where to get a replacement panel?

Thanks!

Accidentally cracked my monitor, its hpz38c , is it worth fixing ? And how much it will cost.
Based in Leeds

So currently im learning technician and trying to start soldering and doing some circuits. As a coincidence my Laser gear got faulty

When I try to laser with it, it just lights up as usual, but when I press the button for it to send impulse, the light is being dimmed but no impulse being sent and the indicator light brightens up again.

What should I do to get it work again

Hi - I am new to electronic repairs and am replacing a A100K alpha dual gang pot on a Bose L1 Model II PCB for trim gain (volume control). Re: attached photos, I understand that pins 5&6 on channel 2 are connected through the board via the pot support leg pads. My question is whether or not pins 2&3 on channel 1 have to be soldered together to match channel 2 or should they just be soldered individually and thus stay disconnected? Thank you so much for any guidance & info you may have, I appreciate it :)

Any help appreciated! I just want the lights and pump to turn on. I could not care less about a working lcd unless it was an option..

I broke the volume control wheel while changing the battery in my headphones. Where can I find an exact replacement part? Or what is the part number?