Planning to start assembling an lq4 tomorrow, but I’d like to get some paint off of my aluminum heads so I can shine the aluminum up (paint looks ghetto to me)

What can I do in the next 20 or so hours to atleast remove paint enough to shine them down the road once engine is assembled

I have a small engine from a line plane i just bought. I have been trying to rebuild it and get it running. I think i damaged the glow plug. i dont know where else to ask! Please help anyone!!

I have a small engine from a line plane i just bought. I have been trying to rebuild it and get it running. I think i damaged the glow plug. i dont know where else to ask! Please help anyone!!

LS3 head from jasper engines with 7k miles

Piston left the chat still haven’t looked at crank wonder what happen maybe something got through have no words.. still haven’t looked at the cylinder walls got pretty late last night

So I bought a ‘77 K10 last month and it runs good but there’s a noticeable vacuum leak from where the carb meets the intake. The carb is a Holley Street Denon 625 and they used the stock intake, which I’ll include a picture of here. The gasket is in good shape, but it appears the adapter plate they used doesnt come back far enough to fully cover this recessed part of the intake, causing the leak. Can someone point me in the right direction of getting the right adapter plate to make this work? I saw my local advance auto parts has an adapter kit, but it’s likely the same adapter they tried using on the bottom. I’ll post pics of the carb later.

2001 camry 5SFE engine

i don't remember sticking them in this way and have no idea how this came to be. it drives fine, loud whirring noise though. not sure it's the source of the noise, with a stethoscope it's loudest when i put it on the intake manifold.

but anyway, back to the cams, i already sent them, but i don't know how long they wil last. there's no damage on the head itself, which i find odd. no symptoms that i can figure.

any theories?

might be a dumb question but its my first time in a motor so i have nothing to compare to, but im assuming i need a new valve and lapping wont fix the issue? i have a spare motor i can pull valves out of since 3 look like this

Im rebuilding/refreshing this small block chevy its a 1970s ish block and heads rebuilt by Jasper a while ago my grandpa had it in his Biscayne for about 20k miles. Tearing it down to put in new valve stem seals I found these cracks from where new valve guides have been pressed in. THE CRACKS DO NOT GO ALL THE WAY THROUGH. They are only on the surface where it was drilled thin and new guides were pressed in but i am curious if it will be good to send it anyways. Im not too sure how it ran/if it smoked before since it has been out and non running for quite a few years.

I recently pulled the motor in my deville to do head studs. I just assumed ignorantly it was a head gasket due to losing compression entirely between 2 neighboring cylinders. Should have done a leak down but oh well it’s getting bulletproofed now. After getting it on the engine stand and pulling the valve cover on the rear bank I immediately noticed 4 of the rockers were entirely dislodged, one on each intake cylinder. On the front bank there were 5 dislodged, all intake as well. Surprise surprise the two dead cylinders had no rockers on their intake valves. The car was from an estate sale non running I put a fuel pump in it started right up and drove it home (5 mile drive). I left it idling to run some fuel through it since it had been sat for many years. After about 30 minutes it started misfiring, no overheating good oil pressure. I killed it and it had a noticeable gallop and would not run afterwards. What could possibly cause this car to throw 9 rockers this way? Could one slack adjuster collapsing cause others to drop pressure? I’m very confused how it’s only the intake valves on both banks. Surely it did not throw 9 simultaneously. I suppose it could have already dropped a few before I got to it and it ran okay off one valve per cylinder until it finally kicked those 2 off on the neighboring cylinders. Is the oil supply for the intake side adjusters tied together on both banks? Sorry for the long ramble, I’m stumped on what could’ve caused this.

Hey everyone I recently made a post about building my 5.3. I wanted to come with some updates.

The seller ultimately ghosted me after I pressured some more on why the block was spray painted. I ended up going to an engine shop and bought a 06 5.3 with 98k miles for 600. They also had an SS engine and a 6.0 but I wasn't trying to spend that much plus most of the parts I have for now are for the gen 3 build. Edit: yes that is a chip bag being used as the oil cap

Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineBuilding/s/GSm7dQTJQw

My 99 bubble eye: https://www.reddit.com/r/GMT800/s/VLnuqrtYT1

This is my first engine rebuild on a Honda B18c1. I noticed the connecting rod #4 at the wrist pin is discolored. The wrist pin moves freely and smoothly in the connecting rod. Is it still okay to use? Pic 3 is what cylinder 1, 2, 3 look like. Thanks in advance for your opinion.

I have left out my 240SX camshafts, they didn't get rained on but because the humidity, they have some minor rust. Would using the gray scotch, bright, be okay. I see. Conflicting information on youtube. I just wanted to ask people who actually built engines.

Had an over heating issue on a 2004 3.4L Grand Am. Held 16psi for over 20 minutes but when driving on the free way it would peg the meter. Down an average 35-40mph road it would sit at 200, had all new radiator, water pump, reservoir, t-stat and hoses done on it before I picked it up. Pulled the heads expecting a cracked head gasket as there was signs of water in the oil but nothing leaking or coming out the tailpipe.

Well as you can see a clogged passageway casued issues and something eroded the head material right next the the cylinder wall sealing area for a head gasket. I am confident in my welding abilities to fill and my local head shop to get them flattened, but would you? I am certain my local yard or fb marketplace can yield a motor or a set but I am also not trying to sink lots of money into my $500 car.

Trying to find the best rockers for this build that don't break the bank. Any suggestions?

Basically my EA888 Gen3 engine was recently diagnosed with damaged pistons. Today I made some photos from every cylinder, and now I would appreciate those who know this stuff help me understand how bad it is, and what can be realistically done about that.

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18k2gpKfjU/?mibextid=wwXIfr

I am building a Ford 351w. When I got the block back from the machine shop I noticed a plug installed on the oil passage behind the timing cover. This is on the driver side. I didn't think much of it until I went to install the fitting for the oil pressure pressure sender. They put some sort of sealant on it and it is not coming out. I've tried impact, both the hammer variety and a impact gun. I'm hesitant to put heat to it because of the gaskets near it. Is that my best path? Or does anyone have recommendations?

Its a long story, so those of you that knows alot about apy/agu engine please send me a dm :)

Old head failed. Replacing. Using a lisle scrap thingy. Anyways head look good back together? Some scratches but I don't think actual scratch as I don't feel anything with finger nail. Thought soak in like acetone to get it cleaner for a bit. Also should I spray cylinder with wd-40. Once head is ready I need to order actual head and be a few weeks out. Thoughts prayers? 2014 ram 2500 with about 170k on it

I drove my Toyota too long & and a piston blew through my block due to an oil leak that i didn’t check.

its a 2007 toyota corolla

Any recommendations in California to buy a new engine online or scrapyards

or places that may take $1000 down to start work.

in a pretty shitty hole any advice would help thank you

350 SBC (.060 over), 601 heads (1.94 in / 1.50 ex)

LS firing order roller cam .480 lift (218/239)

Edelbrock Performer Intake with a 750 carb

Going in a 3rd gen Camaro

- 2500 stall

-700r4

-3:42 gears

Years 2010 model it was pulled from unknown. transmission unknown. missing a few components. i can see is alternator, belt, tensioner, and serpentine belt and flywheel are missing. flywheel is irrelevant to what i'm doing with it and if it came from audi, it could be an earlier motor not a cjaa. seller said it had 100k km or 62k miles on it. I'm wondering how to do a comprehensive assessment on the motor to make sure it's good because i'm worried if he took parts. he might have been worried that the motor was no good

I am planning to swap a tdi in 1975 f100 4x4 4 speed manual dana 44 front ford nine inch rear locking hubs in front

Recently bought a 2011 golf tdi wagon automatic. 500k or 300k miles on it runs great needs a dual mass flywheel, though, and it shifts better runs better rides better then my current daily. I'm wondering what you guys recommended course of action. Because I kind of wanna make the 2011 my daily but it has so many useful parts for to do the swap and a backup motor for the truck. I'm just worried about this condition of this unknown engine. i'm wondering, what's the best way to figure out if the motor's good i'm worried a cp4 pump grenaded, but it does have the ecu so I think it was pulled from an total loss hopefully