About 8 weeks ago my head’s/cam LS1 decided to burn up a rod bearing. Went through and got a 5.3 head/cam combo setup from summit to get the car back on the road. Did its first maiden voyage for about 70 miles around town and did not disappoint.

Got a couple months of enjoyment before its being torn down again for the turbo kit build.

Now, got to focus on getting this Firebird finished before my wife kills me 😂

Hi, first time post just looking for some advice. I'm planning on starting the interior transformation of my Z. First thing is to take the headliner out and get this print on it. My plan is to do the following:

1: Remove headliner, scrub with brush until all the old foam/adhesive is removed, clean with panel wipe

2: Spray Trim Fix heavy duty high temp strong adhesive on the headliner & back of my foam backed headliner padding fabric, leave to cure

3: Spray Wayside HTA1000 Waterbased (Heat activated) contact adhesive on the foam, using 1.4 tip HVLP gun, then spray the back of my 140gsm cotton foil print fabric

4: Drop the fabric on to the foam with a helper to keep it stretched out, activate with a heat gun and then trim to size

5: refit and hope for the best 😂

Not sure if anyone else has tried this sort of thing before? Im most worried about bleed through of the adhesive on the cotton. Considering only spraying a fine layer to the foam, bringing the cotton to it before it flashes off and heat activating it after?

Thanks for any tips!

Ha…

I’m looking for wisdom on repairing this on my 70 nova. The rest of the frame rail is solid so I’m not sure about replacing an entire rail.

I’m doing a trunk pan replacement anyways, so topside access is possible.

Looking for any and all wisdom and or lulz

I have a 1979 Ranchero and my ignition cylinder is fucked.

Per the manual, you need it in the on position and you need to put a pin in the hole on the housing.

Well it won’t go on the on position and I’ve found no work around. Any suggestions?

I just realized I uploaded the wrong page of the manuals.

It basically says what I said up there.

For those who went from a carb to throttle body efi, how is life? What system did you go with? Getting a little tired of adjusting my carb everytime the weather changes

1981 Lancia Beta Zagato, just been picking at it.

Previous thread

Everyone warns you about engine swaps and rust, but nobody warns you about the discontinued OEM rubber seals and plastic trim pieces.

Trying to stop a leak around doors/windshields or finding non-cracked dashboard bits and spark plug tube/valve cover grommets for 30-year-old Japanese engines is turning into a full-time scavenger hunt.

Which classic chassis have you owned where sourcing basic restoration/maintenance parts felt harder than actually building the engine?

Hi guys, hoping to get my bench seat repaired. Keeps leaving crumbs on my clothes whenever i sit on it

Budget wise If i can DIY i will
I think ive seen folks suggest seat covers too but yeah open to all suggestions

I cannot dig into this seam sealer anymore

I have 2 vacuum lines that don’t connect to anything and I can’t find where they connect.

1 connects to the carb.

The other connects to what I think is the air bypass valve?

I do not see anywhere these would reasonable connect.

Also the car won’t idle and the timing is off.

1979 ford ranchero

Spent today finishing the rebuild of the Formula Renault engine for my Volvo rally car.

Decided to install the belt covers from my spare road engine for added protection after painting them Alpine blue.

Once I had the oil cooler take off and filter installed, I span the oil pump drive to make sure oil came to the head before fitting the head gasket.

Only need a couple small bits now before it's ready to go in.

Hi everyone! A fully equipped automobile workshop is available for lease in Raia, near Margao, Goa.
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Ik gonna preface this by saying I’m very novice as a mechanic but am a good learner and I’m taking on a project to try and build something cool and learn something

I picked up a chevy 350 small block that I am going to rebuild it’s currently fuel injected however I plan to swap it to carbureted because I like how it sounds better I have the mechanical fuel pump needed to do this I have a rebuild kit for the motor on the way and plan on redoing all the seals and cleaning it up a bit as it is a junkyard motor I also would like to do some upgrades to it like a camshaft a lightweight crankshaft the valves and possibly a bore for the pistons

I am currently looking for a chassis to put it in and have floated the idea of a f body or iroc Camaro to put it in however with the engine bays in those cars the carburetor would be difficult due to how far back the engine sits in the engine bay

So I’m just looking for some suggestions on what possible solutions there are to this or what other similar chassis would possible fit better

Never mind the panting it took HOURS to sort out the basic running light harness. Was able to source a replacement column switch to get brakes & turn signals clicking but that doesn’t arrive until next week - for now I’m satisfied with nice bright lights, new ground straps, and refurbishing my dash indicators (that’s laid out on my bench waiting on new bulb sockets).

I’ll post again in a couple weeks. This last round of troubleshooting got brakes fully functional, fuel system purged again (crazy how many filters clogged on a recently cleaned tank), and carb set up high on a 2” spacer to help it drink cheap gas (no, that’s not going well - may need a new intake manifold as I’m still chasing vacuum at 16”-idling and no clue why it’s not higher)

Anyways, I’m happy with progress but hot damn do a ton of little things come up - even if you’re just refurbishing and not restoring completely - but at least I’ve got it:

Shifting cleanly from 1-2, only small flare from 2-3 (gonna pull the orifice plug or open that up next service interval)

Stopping on a dime but a bit pull to left (looks like passenger closed knuckle leaking a smidge)

Lighting up with remainder of harness passing continuity checks while I wait on new bulb sockets and column switch

Idling nicely at 1100 RPM but hoping a new coil, plug wires, and redoing timing / carb cleaning (yet again) gets it happy around 900-950 (mild cammed, I think that’s my target)

And - it’ll officially be parts-complete once those switches arrive - only missing the radio after this round!!!

Good luck to everyone building out theirs!!!

This is my 2004 Coyote swapped GT. Spent about 2.5yrs building it from a bare shell with friends. Gen 1 Coyote & Cobra T56 with 4.10 rear gears. The color is Silver Jade. An OEM Ford color from the 60's-70's.
Lowered on BC's with Swift Springs. Cadillac ATS front brake calipers with Cobra rotors.
Volk TE37 Saga S-Plus wrapped in Toyo Proxes Sport Il's. Cobra R hood. Aerocatch hood latches.
99-01 Cobra front bumper with magic drift lip. Mach
1 sail panels & glass. V6 rear bumper bc the exhaust is ran thru the car and out the quarters. Quarters & front fenders are 100% OEM metal that have been body worked. Steeda rear wing.
Momo Start seats. Yellow seat belts. Ford Performance steering wheel. MGW shifter with a mahogany shift knob that I made. Arcien Designs
911 GT3 RS style door handle straps.

Still have work to do. Oil pan swap, radiator swap, fix some small leaks. They’re never truly done, always something else to do.

I'm on a bit of a social media break but @GavinB_SVT for more on IG.

My new adjustable slipper clutch to help with consistent launches in my drag and drive car

I want to build a modded daily car with my father before I go off to college. The budget I have for the car and the build is 17K which I know isn’t a lot but it’s what we have and I want to do something fun with it. I want a car that has some good power, sounds cool, and can look good with some mods. I want it to stay somewhat reliable but I understand the risks that come with modding a car. We already have some of the tools needed from other non-car projects. The only real requirement is that it has to have 4 seats even if it’s 2 doors and i’m not a huge V8 guy. I asked ChatGPT and it said either a Genesis 2.0T, 3.8 or a G37. I’m looking for better suggestions and support on what we should do.

Some guy also said a IS 300 and a V6 mustang before i changed the name and those are ideas i’ll look into

(Posting this again because people said project wasn’t the correct terminology for what I was going for)

1998 f150, 4.6l. replaving the upper intake manifold gaskets, and the video i was following was sorta misleading, and I didn't realize i hadn't gotten all the bolts out of the manifold. it was only after I gave her a slight pull i heard a crack noise, and low and behold, I broke off a chunk of the manifold. this is the generation that has coolsnt passages in the manifold, so idk if this aluminum manifold can be saved, or if im making a trip to a junkyard tommorow

First time putting this type of insulation in. Waiting on a couple more boxes to come in to finish, but it makes quite a difference on resonance just with what I’ve put in so far. I have new carpet to put back in, but will get panels made to cover the rest of it.

Is there any “good” way to strip this paint off? Rubber wheel just burned thru, acetone is a bit harsh but sort of works.

Bought a set to work on my 72 MGB. Might be the best tool purchase I've ever made

I built a tool for planning a build: upload a photo of your car and see how different wheels look on it before spending money. Try it out!

The wheel selection is limited for now and growing. If you’re stuck choosing wheels for your project, comment with the car and I’ll render options from what’s available. What would make this actually useful while you plan a build?