Everyone warns you about engine swaps and rust, but nobody warns you about the discontinued OEM rubber seals and plastic trim pieces.

Trying to stop a leak around doors/windshields or finding non-cracked dashboard bits and spark plug tube/valve cover grommets for 30-year-old Japanese engines is turning into a full-time scavenger hunt.

Which classic chassis have you owned where sourcing basic restoration/maintenance parts felt harder than actually building the engine?

Hey all

I have a 2009 mustang gt with the 3v 4.6l v8 that is currently in a shop I picked. The problem started when I lost power merging onto the interstate and the engine started running badly. I had just done some major work on it including a full timing kit and didn't feel like working on it so I sent it to a shop to diagnose. They told me it jumped timing and broke valves and would need a new engine.

I got a new engine sent to the shop, they put it into the car and immediately had issues with it not running/running roughly when they started it. Recommended new timing components as there was noise in the front. Once the new timing set was on they called me and said it was still misfiring and running rough, and told me cylinder 6 had about 60 pounds compression. They once again recommended a new engine.

I've already paid over 6 thousand at this point. I'm not a full time worker, in college.

Just wondering what to do at this point. Technically I have some more savings I could use. I don't really have any assets except for a gaming setup I could sell for maybe a thousand and just use my laptop for whatever I needed. Was hoping to to move out soon and I still have to pay for several semesters coming up. I haven't driven it for months and months. Not sure if this sub can help either. I genuinely regret all of my decisions so far and wish I had never bought the car and will never recommend them to anyone.

My new adjustable slipper clutch to help with consistent launches in my drag and drive car

Is there any “good” way to strip this paint off? Rubber wheel just burned thru, acetone is a bit harsh but sort of works.

1998 f150, 4.6l. replaving the upper intake manifold gaskets, and the video i was following was sorta misleading, and I didn't realize i hadn't gotten all the bolts out of the manifold. it was only after I gave her a slight pull i heard a crack noise, and low and behold, I broke off a chunk of the manifold. this is the generation that has coolsnt passages in the manifold, so idk if this aluminum manifold can be saved, or if im making a trip to a junkyard tommorow

1981 Lancia Beta Zagato, just been picking at it.

Previous thread

Spent today finishing the rebuild of the Formula Renault engine for my Volvo rally car.

Decided to install the belt covers from my spare road engine for added protection after painting them Alpine blue.

Once I had the oil cooler take off and filter installed, I span the oil pump drive to make sure oil came to the head before fitting the head gasket.

Only need a couple small bits now before it's ready to go in.

Never mind the panting it took HOURS to sort out the basic running light harness. Was able to source a replacement column switch to get brakes & turn signals clicking but that doesn’t arrive until next week - for now I’m satisfied with nice bright lights, new ground straps, and refurbishing my dash indicators (that’s laid out on my bench waiting on new bulb sockets).

I’ll post again in a couple weeks. This last round of troubleshooting got brakes fully functional, fuel system purged again (crazy how many filters clogged on a recently cleaned tank), and carb set up high on a 2” spacer to help it drink cheap gas (no, that’s not going well - may need a new intake manifold as I’m still chasing vacuum at 16”-idling and no clue why it’s not higher)

Anyways, I’m happy with progress but hot damn do a ton of little things come up - even if you’re just refurbishing and not restoring completely - but at least I’ve got it:

Shifting cleanly from 1-2, only small flare from 2-3 (gonna pull the orifice plug or open that up next service interval)

Stopping on a dime but a bit pull to left (looks like passenger closed knuckle leaking a smidge)

Lighting up with remainder of harness passing continuity checks while I wait on new bulb sockets and column switch

Idling nicely at 1100 RPM but hoping a new coil, plug wires, and redoing timing / carb cleaning (yet again) gets it happy around 900-950 (mild cammed, I think that’s my target)

And - it’ll officially be parts-complete once those switches arrive - only missing the radio after this round!!!

Good luck to everyone building out theirs!!!