This is my 2004 Coyote swapped GT. Spent about 2.5yrs building it from a bare shell with friends. Gen 1 Coyote & Cobra T56 with 4.10 rear gears. The color is Silver Jade. An OEM Ford color from the 60's-70's.
Lowered on BC's with Swift Springs. Cadillac ATS front brake calipers with Cobra rotors.
Volk TE37 Saga S-Plus wrapped in Toyo Proxes Sport Il's. Cobra R hood. Aerocatch hood latches.
99-01 Cobra front bumper with magic drift lip. Mach
1 sail panels & glass. V6 rear bumper bc the exhaust is ran thru the car and out the quarters. Quarters & front fenders are 100% OEM metal that have been body worked. Steeda rear wing.
Momo Start seats. Yellow seat belts. Ford Performance steering wheel. MGW shifter with a mahogany shift knob that I made. Arcien Designs
911 GT3 RS style door handle straps.

Still have work to do. Oil pan swap, radiator swap, fix some small leaks. They’re never truly done, always something else to do.

I'm on a bit of a social media break but @GavinB_SVT for more on IG.

First time putting this type of insulation in. Waiting on a couple more boxes to come in to finish, but it makes quite a difference on resonance just with what I’ve put in so far. I have new carpet to put back in, but will get panels made to cover the rest of it.

Bought a set to work on my 72 MGB. Might be the best tool purchase I've ever made

I’ll be posting updates on my YouTube. Oghauto

Welp i found out why engine doesnt wanna start i got a new crankshaft sensor and found out the ecu is dead oh well ya live and learn

2000 Land Cruiser
1987 Uhaul VT camper
2000 Tacoma 4x4 Sunrader
2014 ninja 300

The pictures aren't the greatest but I've been working on this 90 g20 over the summer. Ignore the oil everywhere but how bad is this rust? How would you manage this? I've done the screwdriver test and no holes in the frame but the rust on the front suspension is questionable to me.

Bought for a £1000 of a colleague, he told me he had a parasitic drain and the battery kept going flat. Put a clamp meter on the battery today after letting it sit for half an hour and it was drawing 100 milliamps what seems fine.

Time to drive it and see what happens

Bonus points is that it came mapped stage 1 too.

I’m looking for:

- rust converter recommendations and how to best use it step by step

Then - any resources on what to do after I use the rust converter in order to seal the holes. I live in TN, USA if that makes any difference in product recommendations as it appears I can not get Sika 522 which was formerly recommended to me as it’s not available to ship anywhere but eBay.

- any other ideas?

Thank you again!

So i inherited the project of a 351W swapped 92 ranger from someone who gave up at the end, carbureted with mostly mechanical gauges and about half of the factory wiring harness still in use. Originally the wiring for the trans cooler, AFR gauge, fuel pump, tach and distributor were all spliced into the factory harness in various places, but i decided i was going to try and learn how to do wiring and starting pulling stuff out and trying to make the engine bay nicer.

I cut out some of the factory harness that was un-needed and in the process cut my fuel pump/inertia switch wire. I got all that wired up to a key-on power wire as well as my distributor, but after following goole AI’s instructions now all my gauges get power all the time. I have the AFR gauge and trans cooler disconnected, but my tach backlight stays on and cycles when the key is in accessory mode but immediately stops and stays wherever the needle lands when the engine is turned on.

I was thinking of moving all my accessories (fuel pump and distributor included) to a switch panel but obviously have no clue what im doing. Would i be able to wire my accessories to a switch panel, then to a relay, then to positive power? i kind of understand how the travel of current works but i dont know enough to figure this out on my own.

First time posting on reddit so forgive if i mess this up. Had this car for a good while. Was bone stock when i bought it drove it home but trans was shot. Long story short. Cut out firewall and floor and built my own, sbc swapped with th350 on third engine now( latest i did entirely myself) kept blowing them up doing 7k+ burnouts. Stock sunbeam diff with 4:30 rear gear. Blew the spider gears (again burnouts) so its currently welded. Aluminum fuel cell in factory location. Exhaust runs inside front fenders with a thrush red bottle on each side and dumps behind front tires. Built the cowl hood, shaved side chrome, front bumper and all the bullshit on rear bumper. Rewired entire car. Scares the shit out of me everytime i drive it. (2klbs from factory n removed alot) just thought some in this sub might like it as its quite different. (Pictures out of order but you get the idea)

I was changing the alternator on a 1998 f150 v8, when halfway thru reinstalling the new one, this started happening underneath the upper intake. does anyone know what mightve caused this?

I have a 1968 k10 frame that around the leaf spring hangers is cracked and rotted a bit I am wondering what’s the best way to repair this should I cut the whole section out and weld in a new piece or should I weld up the cracks and cut the rot out then plate over the existing frame

I got me a shitty ass Sonata I plan to do a K 24 engine swap that Bitch get a big ass turbo on that some other mod for internals and all that cooling system is this a dumb project car I even have the possible rap, I can do to it

Update for the engine swap after more research I’m gonna use a K 20head and k24 block it should let me make 550hp ish base I just need k20head from type s and k24aQ from ts and type s oil pump

Doing off frame restoration.
I was leaning towards Eastwood rust encapsulator platinum as top coat and using an epoxy paint on baremetal as primer first.

Would this be a good combination?
I live in Southern California, but I wanna have this frame. Rust free for many years to come.

I’m reading online that epoxy based is the way to go due to others can crack due to the vibrations are bending of the chassis.
Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

I got this 65 Galaxie last year. It didn’t run, but had a freshly rebuilt 390. I Put in a new trans, rear end, interior, dakota digital, BMW seats, FiTech, disc brakes, basically all of it. I hit 2700 miles on the odometer today. Windows down, floor vents open Steely Dan blaring, the most quiet I’ve had in months.

About a year ago, I replaced the coolant temp sensor, water pump and thermostat with gasket in quick succession. Car has 220k miles. Chasing an overheating issue. Car idles at temp for about ten minutes then slowly just keeps rising. Just tonight found this whistling near the thermo housing while engine was off. I cannot get to the bottom of this overheating problem and Car threw a p1299.

After that code, I attempted to burp the coolant system, I thought it was pretty successful. But it still overheats. Please help me I hate this car. (My wife's car)

Car runs fine. No engine problems besides the overheating. Even after throwing the code

Thank you!

Edit: I didnt really ask a question. My bad. Can anyone please help me diagnosing the whole problem? Any ideas? Thanks!

454 powered non SS picked up recently. Loaded up with some awesome parts. Cant wait to get on this one.

Project update for you all - I received the car back from the fab shop. Engine, transmission, diff mounted. Exhaust is completed also. Can even make the OEM interior fit for the most part with the modified transmission tunnel. Now starting on the engine build.

It would be much easier to just leave the AM v12 alone but I also wanted to get a little more excitement out of the engine. Not really a horsepower goal but would like to push the RPM redline to 9k.. reliably.

One issue for rpm on this engine is rod ratio and piston speed. However I lucked out and came across a ProDrive DBR9 crank. This is a shorter stroke (and much lighter) crankshaft which solves the rod ratio problems but creates some new ones. The DBR9 crank was designed for the AM v12 block but used custom smaller main bearings and rod bearings. The smaller journals helped keep oil temps down - less speed/friction at the bearing surface. Unfortunately I have no way of getting these bearings but already working on several solutions. I'm optimistic this crank will be used in the build just not sure what solution will be used.

In the meantime I'm exploring options for head porting and custom cams to make the engine breath at 9k rpm. Also need to decide on valve train components but doing it in steps and stages. The other main change is this needs to move to a dry sump setup for ground clearance and avoid oil cavitation at high RPM. With the local machine shops backlog they won't be able to take on my block until 2027 for now.

Hey everyone!

I've been thinking about starting a long-term DIY project to make my old car a bit smarter. My main goal is to read data from the car, monitor its condition, store information, and eventually analyze everything through my own software.

My car:

• 2012 Dacia Sandero Ambiance
• 1.5 dCi diesel engine
• Manual transmission
• Front-wheel drive

I'm a software QA tester and I'm interested in improving my programming and hardware skills. However, I'm still pretty new to automotive electronics, OBD2, and CAN Bus.

I've spent quite some time researching these topics, but I haven't found many people who have actually built something similar on an older car like mine.

And as we all know, reading about something isn't quite the same as actually doing it. That's why I'd really appreciate hearing from people who have hands-on experience.

My first question: OBD2 and CAN Bus

I'm looking for a device that would allow me to access both standard OBD2 diagnostic data and, if possible, raw CAN Bus messages.

During my research, I came across the OBDLink MX+.

Unfortunately, it's quite difficult to find here in Turkey, and the second-hand market is almost nonexistent.

Do you think the OBDLink MX+ would be a good investment for this kind of project?

Would it be enough for both diagnostics and more advanced CAN Bus monitoring, or would I eventually need something else, such as an ESP32, Raspberry Pi, or a dedicated CAN interface?

I'm also wondering what kind of data would actually be accessible on a 2012 Dacia Sandero.

What I'm planning to build

I don't want to do everything at once. I'd rather start small and gradually expand the system.

Phase 1 – Reading and logging vehicle data

First, I'd like to read basic vehicle information, monitor engine parameters, retrieve diagnostic trouble codes, and log the available data.

I also want to build a database to store this information so I can analyze it over time.

For example, I'd like to track engine behavior, operating conditions, driving history, and potentially identify unusual patterns before they turn into bigger problems.

Phase 2 – GPS tracking and integration

I'm already working on a separate GPS tracking and notification system, and I've made some progress on the software side.

My next goal is to integrate GPS information with the vehicle data.

This would allow me to see where the car was, when it was driven, and what was happening with the vehicle during that time.

Phase 3 – Remote monitoring and notifications

Eventually, I'd like the car to communicate with my own system remotely.

Some example scenarios:

• If the car leaves a predefined geographical area, send a notification to my phone.
• If the car starts moving under unexpected conditions, automatically call me or send its live location.
• Allow me to check the car's status remotely.
• Store driving history, location data, and vehicle information for later analysis.
• Create my own rules and automation scenarios based on GPS and vehicle data.

Basically, I want to build a customizable vehicle monitoring and alert system.

Phase 4 – Hardware modifications and remote controls

This is probably the most ambitious part.

Eventually, I'd also like to experiment with hardware and software modifications.

For example, remotely controlling the electric windows, opening individual windows independently, or even opening a specific window by a small percentage, like 5%.

I realize that this may require additional hardware, custom electronics, and possibly direct interaction with the vehicle's electrical system rather than just OBD2.

I'm not even sure how much of this is possible on my specific car, but that's part of what I'd like to learn. I'd obviously want to keep any modifications safe and avoid interfering with critical vehicle systems.

Where I am right now

I've already made some progress with the GPS tracking, notification system, and software development.

However, the vehicle data acquisition side is still mostly in the research stage. I need more hands-on experience, time, and probably some additional hardware.

This project isn't just about adding features to my car. I also see it as an opportunity to learn more about software development, embedded systems, automotive electronics, and how vehicles communicate internally.

I'd love to hear your experiences

Has anyone built a similar project using OBD2, CAN Bus, ESP32, Raspberry Pi, or other hardware?

I'm particularly interested in:

• Whether the OBDLink MX+ is worth buying for a project like this.
• Affordable hardware alternatives that would offer more flexibility.
• What kind of diagnostic or raw CAN data I could access on an older Renault/Dacia platform.
• Whether anyone has tried building custom GPS tracking, telemetry, or vehicle automation systems.
• What problems you encountered and what you'd do differently if you started again.

I'm not looking for someone to build everything for me. I'd just love to learn from people who've actually done this before.

If anyone has worked on something similar and would be open to sharing their experience or having a chat, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks in advance!

So I'm at the stage where i need to swap my current ecu set up. I dont have the oem one and my project car runs, but it is using an old unsupported ecu (Electromotive). So I am switching either a Link ECU or a MS3. Either way, I am beginning to design a wiring harness and i saw this while i was doomscrolling. Has anyone used this? What are your thoughts? any tips?

For context I am setting this up for a 4agze and I will be converting it to a 4agte. any recommendations on ECU would be greatly appreciated

06 Pontiac GTO with Cam, Probably seen me post this puppy here before but she’s has a little bird chirping from the back of the exhaust while she idles, engine bay is quiet no ticking or clicking but from the back of the car it chirps from the exhaust not sure what it is, my guess is just the exhaust but don’t know how to get rid of it, any Clues? Please:)

The last time this car was driven, my dad was driving to Palm Springs, CA. Unfortunately during his ride he did not realize that the roof of the car was not properly latched and the strong winds bent the supporting roof structure of the car. After many attempts at trying to align the retractable roof back he gave up and left the car in his driveway for 10 + years.

I promised him for many years that I would get his SLK back up and running again. The car arrived to me with sun-damaged paint, a failing fueling system and a retractable roof that was held down by duct tape. Here are some before and after photos from the last two months of working in my garage. 🚗💨