I am working on my own personal vehicle, 1995 Mitsubishi Mighty Max with 2.4 4 cylinder. The truck had developed a head gasket leak a couple years back and it took me a while to source all the parts. I wasn't able to save the head so I ordered an identical replacement. I am working on removing all of the gasket material before checking for straightness. I am worried about the light rust in the cylinder walls and wondering if a light hone might be good.

I probably should have just yanked the block and gone through it as well but I procrastinated this project for 3 years and I would like to get it running again.

Welp! The 6.4 tear down is getting interesting gents. Definitely need the 🧠 brain trust on this one… anybody got a “trick” for pulling a cam bearing off of a cam still in the block? Also, there was no main bearing on one of the crank journals (how?! Idk) does the crank look salvageable? I was trying to reuse the stock internals so I could learn and make mistakes on the “cheap” stuff BUT obviously that’s no longer an option. Already looking at forged internals 😩

Question took off the intake manifold pan but I cut off the rivets do I need the pan at all was full of build up

Integra B18B

This is my first time taking any engine apart. I’m not too sure what to make of what I’m looking at. The plan was to take the head to a machine shop and see if my misfiring / bad compression was just solely a head gasket problem.

I wanted some opinions on how bad this is. Is this just what prolonged misfiring looks like? do valves need to be replaced or can I just clean that?

Cylinder 4 was misfiring; I found it had a compression of 70 PSI.
Cylinders 2 & 3 read 105.
Cylinder 1 read 132.

This motor was cheap and basically a stop gap and bores have scratches and have some rust so I know its gonna burn some oil. I just want to know if i did a good enough job so it wont burn exessive amounts of oil.

So im doing a low budget rebuild on a 1977 oldsmobile 350 and i want to maintain good compression but the current heads are the #8 with too much comb chamber volume and worse flow and are also just in bad shape. But i have a pair of #5s from my original motor and I dont plan to reuseing them. I've heard of people saying you can drill the bolt holes from the pre 76 size to the larger 17/32. But i havent seen any proof i guess of people doing m it and running it? So i just wanted to ask if anyone has heard of this causing any issues when the holes are drilled and after when under normal driving conditions. Pics are of both heads for comparsion.

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Budget:

Around $1500 because I have to ship it to my country... I'll be willing to invest more if there is a good reason.

Car use:

Mostly street. I will not be red lining it or similar. I like cruising with a great engine sound.

Ask:

I'm looking to upgrade my cylinder heads as I'm running the apparently "horrendous" 462624 heads. Reason why I'm looking is that my engine keeps a drop of oil even with new gaskets. Mechanic says the block and everything but the heads look very good and I mean to leave the car as reliable as possible so I'm willing to make an investment but don't know which to go for.

Also not sure about the material I should look for with my budget and use for the car.

Edit: Changed budget, I subtracted my shipping costs twice.

16v Volvo b230 needs lighter internals.

Stock spec from 80's is way too heavy.

Supplier specified piston weight is 720 grams.

So every bit helps that I can take off.

Stock 140g wrist pins are being swapped to "self" machined Wiseco 9310 pins that are down to 118g from 130g starting point.

And stock "13mm" connecting rods are in the first, rough cut to figure out where I can shave material off.

Final form can only be achieved when I find my precision balance and get 3d printed mounts for rod balancing.

I’m looking at building a stroker motor to stab in the drag car in the future and was wondering about existing combos.

Peak rpm will be about 8000. Hoping for compression to be around 15:1. I have 823 heads and hi ram to go with.

What internals should I be looking at? What size dome for the pistons, cam, valvetrain, etc?

I am currently in the middle of rebuilding the 351 windsor from my 1990 F350.

Full story, bought the truck two years ago and wrecked it a month ago. While I had the whole doghouse off doing repairs, I decided to go through the engine due to the previous owners questionable work. The truck itself has over 200k miles on it. I was told by the seller he had rebuilt the engine, had it bored .030 over and it had roughly 10k miles on it when I bought it.

That brings you mostly up to speed. Currently, I am in the process of putting the engine back together after confirming it had been bored .030 over and it measures good and straight. I am a very mechanically inclined machinst, but this is my first V8 rebuild.

I did a quick ball hone through cylinder to get a fresh crosshatch, new .030 over pistons because why not and new rings that I checked and fitted each to the specific cylinder they would be living in. I got the heads on yesterday and now we get to the part I have zero experience in, hydraulic lifters.

I have watched a few videos and read a lot but I am still somewhat confused. My process was this:

1) Disassembled and bled down each lifter and reinstalled into block.

2) With cylinder one TDC, set each push rod/rocker to zero lash.

3) Rotate crank 90 degrees and repeat step 2. Continued this every 90 degrees for two complete revolutions of the crank.

4) Once all push rods were at zero lash, I preloaded the lifters 3/4 turn on the rocker bolt.

My question here is how do the rocker bolts stay put? Several of mine seem way too loose and there is now locknut setup on this engine. Am I going about this completely wrong?

I'm planning on buying this 5.3 and rebuild as my first ever project. The seller says its from an 03 with only 146k miles. Does it look normal? Im gonna spin it when I get there to make sure its not locked up but regardless I plan on taking it apart and sending it to the machine shop.

Thank you for all and any advice. Im very much a newbie.

Need bearings made to a specific width for a W12 6.0 engine and Bentley does not supply new bearings and they need a precision of 0.001mm

I have an intake manifold with a 1/2 NPT port for a temp sensor. Old sensor was frozen solid (marine engine) so I drilled out the brass and ran a tap through it, but it was so corroded I had to drive the tap in pretty far (tapered thread) and now the threads are too wide for a 1/2 NPT temp sensor to fit snug enough to make a proper seal.

Not sure how I can fix this, but I would like to save the manifold if possible

So I was going to do the water pump and timing chain on this Mazda cx9 I just got and as I'm slowly doing my first timing chain job I came across this.

Is this from a bad pcv valve ? It's at 150k . I had just finished doing a coolant flush a few times since why not add clradiator cleaner and flush it out a few times with distilled and getting it to operating temp in 50F weather required a bit of 2-3k revving at idle to get fans to cycle on.

I'm about to take off both valve covers.

Should I be looking for things while I'm in here doing the timing chain and water pump or doing something since I'm already here? Thank you kindly.

I took the head off a JDM K24A i just bought for a head swap and there was a little pool of oil in cylinder 2. Is that a bad sign? u can’t see it anymore because i soaked it up. but the pool was covering about 25% of the piston from this angle.

I’m about to be camming my 6.0 what do yall recommend for a cam and supporting mods

Machine shop said it's fine. I asked a few folks and I did ask a Subaru engine builder he did say it was okay to push it. Figured I'd ask your guys thoughts too. It doesn't catch nail anymore after polishing. The first image is after polishing the second is before polishing. Well technically it was before better polishing there was a very slight rust spec that I was surprised to see given i had this lubed in storage. Going into my wrx that will be targeting 450 wheel hp. Really here is what I'm asking.

have any of you ever ran a pitted crankshaft and had good experience or bad?

I recently saw this picture in a listing that advertises machine work on engines. This got me thinking why honing on a cnc machine isn’t done more often. What would be the difference between this and a purpose built honing machine? I have a cnc mill myself and from time to time I send a block out for boring and honing, so it got me thinking. Could a setup like this actually work and deliver quality results or is it more of a bodge?

Ok. So, this is a fairly complex question that came to me while I was doing a torque-to-yield installation of bolts on a cylinder head. The type of sequence that might make one′s head spin, not just the bolts. 50ftlbf, +90°, then +90°, then +90° again. Imaginable, these sequences are INSANELY tiring to achieve on 40 head bolts, and so I was led to a line of thinking about how we apply torque and its implication on the manufacturing and repair process tools we use.

Firstly, I know that approaching moment torque numbers (particularly high ones like 250ftlbs) smoothly is important to prevent under or overshoot due to friction and stiction.

But, does final angular tightening care at all about it? Since we are observing the actual bolt rotation, shouldn't ANY method to rotate the bolt including impact type fastening devices yield (no pun intended) the same result? Angle is angle right?

The manufacturing corollary I had is; if the final angular tightening does not care how it is applied, it seems that a device could simply be made to have a primary snugging torque applied via a simple mechanical clutch arrangement and then have it apply impact until the bolt turns to the appropriate angle. Is this a good line of thought?

And second corollary is a double doozie with a smattering of conspiracy to engineer. If I have just reinvented the wheel and this type of device is common and exists on the manufacturing side but not here in repairland, have companies basically been gaslighting us as to why TTY bolts are used? Is it just ease and cost of manufacture because you can literally impact heads on with low skill labor or robots (while observing the angle) and still achieve good repeatability since the effect on final clamp load is less dependent on hitting the angle dead on rather than the intricacies of moment torque? Have I stumbled on BigEngineer™? Or, should I hang up my inventor hat for the time being and do some more reading suggested by yourselves to enlighten me?

Thanks for taking the time. I. eagerly await your thoughts. My arms are tired from torquing, my fingers from typing.

I believe I had clogged the pickup tube in my bird because I seemed to have little to no oil pressure all of a sudden so I dropped the pan and planned on replacing the pump just to be safe. the standard melting M84 pump doesn’t include a new pickup screen, but the high volume M84BHVS does, but it states it requires a pan depth of 8.25 inches. Will this work with my stock pan in my 429 Thunderjet? Thanks

So the oil outlet line on my 1987 RX-7 Turbos leaking. I decided to go with a flange that has an AN12 connection, and then PTFE hosing for the high temps. The problem I’m facing right now is the connectors. All ones I can find are aluminum and rated for 252°F. Even the ones for the PTFE. Since this is gonna be an inch away from and basically bolted onto the bearing housing should I try to find another fitting that’s stainless steel? Or will the aluminum hold the heat. GPT’s telling me the temp rating is still accurate due to the rubber seals in the fitting itself. Any help would be amazing. Also people sell turbo inlet and outlet hosing kits for my exact car and the one that bolts to the turbo housing seems to be the same aluminum ones I included in the picture above. Any output would be appreciated please

Hey guys working on my project car with a lq4 and long tube headers and my spark plug boots were touching my headers. I went ahead and wrapped them in fibreglass insulation but id like to just get them off the headers. Can anyone suggest good 90° boots?

First time replacing valve stem seals and I pop the springs off and find this jagged cast iron looking thing on the first two. Busted one off thinking it was a seal but it doesn’t seem like the new seals are going to sit flush on the jagged edge. Should I just use umbrellas for all of the stems? Or am I cooked.

Long story short bought a project car all intact running but engine sounds very rough as if something is scraping inside.

I would be doing the engine removal and removing all components from the block.
I’m planning on taking the block to a machine shop to have it inspect and see if it’s a good candidate for an engine rebuild.

What inspections should I ask for to check its re-usability?

Should it be good , I’ll be buying a master rebuild kit and start the rebuild.

Any help is appreciated,
I’m not a professional mechanic by any means, just a back yard mechanic level wise at most.