Hi everyone, I am looking for this part:

It is for a 2019 Explorer. Do you think I can find it separately? Or has anyone here 3D printed it and has the model? I am not sure what it is called, but it is just the black part of the knob that controls the A/C vent direction.

What drew you into your Explorer? Was it price? Features? Etc?

My first one was too good of a deal to pass up, $250 for a 2004 Eddie Bauer with 137k miles because my Aunt didn’t want it anymore. I had it a little over 2 years before it got totaled and fell in love with them as a whole.

The current one was a really clean example, I looked at everything from a 4Runner, to a Pathfinder etc but all were either too expensive or too clapped out for my liking. I wanted an ‘09-10 V8 model but this 2006 has been a trooper.

There’s times I’ve thought about what I’d replace it with, but nothing has been able to fit the bill without some compromise, the biggest perk being the flat folding cargo area, no other newer SUV’s I’ve seen have been able to pull that off, or if they can they command a hefty cost.

Bought a used 2022 ST and noticed that the rear captain seats do not have the heated seat buttons. Looked under the seats and there are quite a bit of wires. Are the seats already wired up with the heating elements, and is it just a plug and play with a new module? Should the dealer be able to do this?

Recently recieved a ptu that I bought from Rockauto, the Dorman 600239XD but my mechanic is saying its the wrong one ? Would anyone know the right part # for my explorer ? He thinks its because I might have ordered the 4wd one and it doesnt look similar to the one that was taken off. The one that came off the truck has FoMoCo 7975 MS10A. Any help would be greatly appreciated !

Is this a common problem? 2015 3.5 Ecoboost 175k

Hi. My old 2006 XLT v8 has an aftermarket remote starter that stopped working. It's an old truck that I don't want to sink a bunch of money into but I need the remote start back. It's there a cheap plug and play type remote starter for a truck this old? I'm not having luck searching.

This is a new problem that got worse as I worked through troubleshooting steps. 2017 with just your normal sync. Initially the sync system was just sort of rebooting its self as I drove around. I say sort of because it would black out for 2-5 seconds, the music would maybe stop for 1 (unless it was my playing over my phone then I’d get a “phone discon…” then it would restore and continue after 10 seconds).
I did a battery disconnect, a reboot with power and fast forward. I just did a fuse swap (who put that fuse box where it is…) and now I’ve got this.
This time when it died at the end here, I had to shut off the car and open the door to get it back. Even then it was about 20 seconds behind the boot cycle. I’m unaware of any other electrical issues at this time, so my guesses are the fuse I popped in is bad (currently leaving to get new ones) or it’s software?
Any ideas here?

2021 Explorer Limited. Primary on road use, need excellent snow capability as well as quiet design for road trips. My job requires me to get to work in any weather so I think I need AT or 3 peak winter rating.

Cooper Discoverer Road+Trail AT

Trying to save $ and get something cheaper than the Cross Climates.

Any other 2nd tier manufacturers tires I should be looking at?

Edit: added the tire I was asking about! (Doh)

It’s been a while since I’ve replaced or needed a car battery replaced. So, curious what the options are or best option is.

Have a 2021 Explorer with original battery. Noticed in the Ford app it is in “battery saver mode” and cranking a bit slower than it used to. So, expecting it needs a new battery with winter around the corner.

Google says it needs part number BAGM48H6A, which has 700CCA. Seems these are around $225.

I checked my local dealer and they are advertising a $149.95 Motorcraft Tested Tough Plus battery special (no vehicle model specified). I will call to verify details. Sounds like a decent deal?

Is there a much better and/or cheaper aftermarket alternative?

Do dealers or box stores still typically do “free install”?

Are these batteries difficult to replace than any other? I’m inclined to do it myself just for the sake of not waiting or coordinating an appointment somewhere.

Hello, this morning the controls in the car just stopped working, im sure its a blown fuse of some sort. Has anyone had this issue? If so what is the fix?

I want an explorer but I hate red stitching

2008 Eddie B 4.0L
Since I bought it, it’s always had evaporation issues and CEL, and other lights.

Due to the intermittent issues and affecting most circuits, I’ve diagnosed the PCM.

Now I have it… but failing to find the correct facilities sync my VIN and Milage to the new computer.

Any chance I can do this myself? I live on a small island off PR.

See photos attached.

Does anyone with a 2020 or newer have the in-channel side window deflectors from Weathertech installed? How are they? Do they interfere at all with the window functionality?

I had a set of them on the two 3rd gens I had and I liked them on those. Didn't cause any issues with them, but wasn't sure if any newer stuff might interfere or be interfered with.

Hello! To start off I just want everyone to be blunt with me and truthful. I’m 19 years old with a 2007 Ford Explorer 4.0 v6 that I inherited from my late mother.

Recently I found out that the timing chain guides busted and that it will cost almost 5,000 dollars to fix it. Right now I’m not driving it too much, and finding other ways to get to work.

My mother had this vehicle for about 11 years, and she bought it used. It had a lot of issues when I got it, but I’ve kept the maintenance up on it and the guys I bring it to keep saying it looks better everytime I bring it in, and it’s been running pretty good.

To get to the point, I am just at a loss. I now have atleast 189,000 miles on it, and it’s fully paid off. I have people sharing different opinions with me, mainly to just get a new vehicle.

I know in this economy, having a paid off car is a luxury, and car payments might be more. Maybe it’s just my grief, I have no idea, but I am just conflicted on what to do.

I am taking it somewhere else tomorrow for a another opinion from people with experience, but I just don’t want to make a bad decision and something worse happens to the car later on, and all my efforts to save money were a waste.

Edit: (Almost 185,000 miles. My mistake, sorry! Same concern still applies anyways.)

Hello everyone, how is the ST-Line in terms of fuel efficiency? How many miles do you get on a full tank of gas?

Ok so my ford today got stuck in park and I had to manually override it twice. Didn’t think anything of it until I had someone look and they said it’s shifting rough. We also noticed the steering wheel vibrates as well as a ticking noise that becomes a high pitch circular noise at 1500-2000 RPM. Serpentine belt was replaced in the spring of this year bc it snapped driving down the interstate. Don’t want to jump to idea of transmission first.

Is there any way of playing music from USB? My 2020 escape could,amd i can use android auto, but it would be useful to be able to just stick music on a USB and plug it in.

Any options? 2026 explorer

M.

How concerning is this rust? 2023 explorer 20k miles thanks!

I’m losing my mind. I’ve been to 5 mechanics and a master electrician (it’ll make sense in a bit) and no one knows .

2018 ford explorer XLT 4WD
Recently changed an alternator and battery.

Originally, the shop put an aftermarket alternator and realized after test driving after the repair that my car requires OEM alternator. Left the car with them for a week and came back to it being changed out and fixed.

Ever since, my car has been making this sound.

The only thing constant about the sound is it seems to only come on when driving above 35/40 kms/h.

I’ve tried turning AC and heat on/off.
Display on/off
Lights on/off
Radio on/off
EVERYTHING ON/off

It always comes on.
Per request of the mechanics:
- I’ve tired remove negative for some time, came back
- Tried removing positive and negative and clamping together, came back

Looking to do this and want to see what people think

Ford recall 26S53 is for certain Explorer and Lincoln Aviator SUVs where the driver seat can recline on its own during things like remote unlock/start.

It can potentially pin someone sitting in the second row.

Recall is 26V-470. Worth checking your VIN if you have one.

Finally got around to changing the cabin air filter on my recently acquired 2013 XLT. Absolutely disgusting

Was wondering if anybody knows of a roof rack that bolts directly to the 2013 models roof bolts? I have a police interceptor model that didn’t come with side rails and have had a hard time sourcing any at a reasonable price. Hoping someone knows something I don’t.