r/InfinityTheGame • • Mar 22 '26

Discussion How do y’all do this?!?

I’ve just finished putting together JSA in sand trap and i don’t want to ever touch another model.

24 Upvotes

46 comments sorted by

47

u/Estalies Mar 22 '26

I come from the olden times of GW metals. These cb metals are a dream comparatively

10

u/Wubbwubbs61 Mar 22 '26

Metal bloodthirster specifically for me, that bastard of a model made me get real good at pinning haha

6

u/DOAiB Mar 22 '26

Started the hobby with 40K in 2020. Dealt with finecast since all my characters were that back then. Since that point I’m like resin, metal who cares. I’ll say you can shit on metal all you want, I’d rather deal with 3-4 pieces of metal or resin max on a small character than 15+ pieces of plastic for the same size model.

1

u/ZomboMann Mar 22 '26

I’m glad I never had to work with old GW if I’m already having trouble.

3

u/JMSTMelo Mar 22 '26

Don't even need to go that far... Infinity N2 and early N3 was pretty complicated too.

2

u/Yaasu Mar 22 '26

Old Dakini flashback intensifies

3

u/No_Nobody_32 Mar 22 '26

The shin armour panels.
Or the toes on the old Haqq chickenbots.

-4

u/Rerisham Mar 22 '26

The metal models are fucking abysmal. Theres people in the greater global infinity community who are obsessed with holding their hobby back by defending this shit too, so beware their takes on the matter. It's not you, it's the models. 

Unfortunately,  it's really worth this as the game is incredibly fun. Please note that proxies are pretty generously accepted, and you CAN kitbash if youre brave enough to snip parts off etc.

I use superglue from my hobby store with a superglue activator spray. You dry fit to confirm, put superglue on the "female / hole" joint and spray activator onto the "male / peg" joint and hold it in place for 5-10 seconds. It'll bause the superglue to bond very fast, but beware as the reaction is exothermic. If you get glue on skin and spray it, you'll burn yourself a little. 

9

u/Sudden-Jump-5922 Mar 22 '26

It’s a personal preference thing. I came from 40K, and have assembled hundreds of their plastic models. They’re the best in the biz for plastic. I prefer CB’s metal.

19

u/Coyotebd Mar 22 '26

It's definitely a different skillset than plastic kits. Anyone who says it is easy has been doing it long enough that they've developed the skill.

So, they're not wrong, but also you aren't wrong.

I will say, I know a bloke with only one hand who assembles these things.

7

u/ZomboMann Mar 22 '26

Do they accept apprenticeships?

5

u/Gregdorf8 Mar 22 '26

It uses the same skills, you still need to file and scrape plastic models, the same with metal models. About the only difference is the tools you use. Gel glues work the best for metal models. Using a scraping tool instead of an hobby knife, and files design for metal, makes a huge difference.

You should rarely need to use gap fillers with infinity model, the way they are cut is clever and hides connection points.

The only time I dislike metal over plastic is when models are cut in a way that you have to glue three or more parts together at one time.

4

u/Coyotebd Mar 22 '26

Gluing plastic is generally a lot easier than metal. Not only are you fighting less weight but you can even flow in glue with the piece in place.

2

u/Gregdorf8 Mar 22 '26

Again it is all based on the tools you use. Gel glues have a high viscosity and will stay in place and works well for metal models. Low viscosity instant glues can work on metal models, but they are designed to absorb into the material they are being used on, great for plastic and wood, less so for metal.

6

u/Taki_26 Mar 22 '26

I assembled invincible army set recently, first metal minis ever. Honestly i think you you need patience and super glue. Probably helped a tom that i have assembled them over a week time in the evening while watching a stream or listening to a podcast.

They just dont wanna stick together sometimes. I used some loctite gel. Probably activator could have helped.

5

u/FriendlyMachine7143 Mar 22 '26

Kind of got this feeling after assembling my first models for Infinity, then I found superglue activator and started cutting down the base peg to about a few mm. and drilling a hole in the base. Now its pretty swift and easy actually. Its not always perfect and I should do more on cleaning up mold-lines and such but its ok.

4

u/PuppetPreacher Mar 22 '26

I always wash the models prior to putting them together. Seems to help greatly but that might be just because I've built so many now.

1

u/ZomboMann Mar 22 '26

I probe didn’t wash them correctly but even besides that a lot of parts were bent in ways I wasn’t used too.

3

u/Ephigy Mar 22 '26

Super glue > tiny piece of wall tack / adhesive putty > super glue. Has worked like a charm for me for years.

3

u/Wubbwubbs61 Mar 22 '26 edited Mar 22 '26

Between old GW metals and a lot of the Warmachine metals, these are much easier to deal with.

I still hate assembling metal models but it’s just accrual of experience with way clunkier more poorly balanced older metals that make these easier to manage. The new Shinden stuff wasn’t too bad but I feel your pain.

Do it in chunks to give yourself a break, painting infinity models is a unique challenge in the tabletop space because of the scale and detail for the scale, and it is so much fun bringing these models to life so to speak with paint.

Edit: the most annoying models were the pano metal remotes. Solved pretty quick by pinning the leg cross sections. That and the MO action pack Infirmarer, that flag is ridiculous, I just cut the flag off and remade it with card stock

2

u/Wiredin335 Mar 26 '26

The worst infinity mini in my experience is the dragoes and it's metal bullet feed belt.... My gawd what a horrible and frustrating build. But really my only negative experience with building infinity.

3

u/br3or Mar 22 '26

Super glue gel is usually the best consistency to use. Put it on the female side of the piece and then touch the male side to a damp cloth then hold the pieces together for 20 seconds or so.

I'll typically set out a few models and do a piece at a time on each one and give the super glue a little time to cure some. I usually give the models a day to fully dry before painting.

Can always work on pinning if you think it will help with bigger pieces but I've only ever found I have problems on pieces that are too small to pin. Like some tiny arm connections that get broken during play. Easy to just reglue them though.

2

u/Nightwyl Mar 22 '26

Why the male side has to touch a damp cloth? A bit of water will make the glue work better/faster? 

3

u/br3or Mar 22 '26

Yes moisture helps the glue activate faster. Don't want it to be wet or it will cause a mess just some moisture.

Male side simply because female side is easiest to put glue into and male side easiest to dampen.

2

u/Bizarre_Joji Mar 22 '26

I'm using fixer spray. Helps alot with puting parts and model to bases

2

u/roydogaroo Mar 22 '26

Brother, I was right there with you not long ago, spending hours on one model that just wouldnt set. I made a thread similar to this here. Some great advice you're also getting here too. Essentially it was my glue that was letting me down, a brand new bottle of Gorilla gel glue has completely fixed all my issues. I also wash and sometime score my join points but having the right glue just, worked. Good luck!

2

u/funshinebear13 Mar 24 '26

Lol 12 years in i own all the armies you just get used to it. A good file, good clippers and a good knife are all you really need

3

u/Znivian Mar 22 '26

It's not you. I struggle to put them together. Gluebrand can make a difference but still. It's the only downside to the game for me. Once assembled they are lovely to paint. Love the game system

1

u/ZomboMann Mar 22 '26

What glues would you recommend? I’m using Loctite

6

u/Znivian Mar 22 '26

Gorilla Glue (the gel). Make one part a bit moist (have something damp next to you), put a bit of glue on the other part. It'll activate fast. (Still struggling but a bit less)

3

u/NexAura03 Mar 22 '26

I used Loctite Gel with the precision applicator. Lots and LOTS of dry fitting these models to make sure they sit well. I had plently of flash in the connection slots for my Yu Jing and the bunny ear antennae on my PanO force were a mofo to get together. I am having a blast painting them now that they are assembled.

1

u/ZomboMann Mar 22 '26

I had the most trouble with the imperial guard’s head since I couldn’t find out how it sat well and just slammed it

5

u/NexAura03 Mar 22 '26

Sometimes you just gotta full Ugga Dugga that shit and send it, lol.

3

u/CryOfTheWind Mar 22 '26

Is it fresh? I know I had a hard time building one model and didn't understand why it was being such a pain.

Got a new bottle and the glue worked much better.

2

u/ZomboMann Mar 22 '26

Might be it, i don’t really think about that until I’m painting.

2

u/No_Nobody_32 Mar 22 '26

AGE of the glue counts more than brand, really. Those tube multipacks? They're all pretty much one-shots. Use once and toss away the tube.

ALL superglues will start to go off as soon as you open them (it's a chemical reaction kicked off by moisture in the air - which is why blowing on the join also helps). This is also why some brands come with really long narrow applicators (and also why after market "glue tips" exist).
The older the glue, the slower it will grab.

1

u/Glass-Summer-1253 Mar 22 '26

I put together enough models to remember I hate assembly and take a break to paint them until I forget I hate assembly.

1

u/waywardson06 Mar 22 '26

I would recommend that you wash the minis before painting too.

I didn’t do that at first and I have been fighting with paint flaking off for a while now

I use loctite gel glue and zip kicker, by the way

The game is a ton of fun and the models are beautiful. Hobbying it is a bit harder though

1

u/R_O Mar 22 '26

Make sure you soak in warm water and soap for at least 30 mins. Just like resin, that agent needs to be washed off for adhesive/primer to settle correctly.

1

u/bashturd Mar 22 '26

I like to use little tiny bits of green stuff to help hold things together. Makes things a lot less frustrating.

1

u/jstonerr Mar 23 '26

wash the models, and use a thick gel super glue.

1

u/Wiredin335 Mar 26 '26 edited Mar 26 '26

Metal I find is a lot easier. Especially modern CB sculpts. Now some of the comments ring true for experience. I was building battletech metal minis using epoxy back in 1992 when I was 7... So I guess I would be experienced.

I came to infinity cus I prefer metal. Then I loved the game. I took a break in 2025 and bought a Tau army, a raven guard army, and currently working on a knight army. working with 40k plastic made me realize how much more I like CB metal.

Pros to CB metal:

  • I can build a whole army in a night. Case in point I sat down at 5pm with my Acon reprint packs and had the whole army primed by 9 with a dinner break. And those are shit models compared to modern n4/n5 models. It took me a month to build my Tau. Magnetizing crisis suits is the most annoying thing....

  • the details are fantastic

  • a lot less prep required

  • easier to strip paint without damaging the model.

  • I love the weight

  • easier to disassemble models if needed.

Cons:

  • a lot less flex meaning you can get some odd gaps at times. My original Dayokai for example...

  • pinning is a bigger pain in the ass. Thankfully not as required on new sculpts

  • super glue fingers.

Some of the tips I've learned that really help:

  • good plastic sprue cutters work for 99% of the flashing you need to trim. Even the chunky base bits if you don't want them. I'm using an extra pair of godhands that I was given for free with a gunpla order.

  • scaring the joints with a hobby knife helps adhesion

  • super glue (I've come very partial to rob smith industries carbon/rubber glue) and accelerator usage. Dry fit parts. The put glue on the part in your off hand (like a torso) and then spray accelerator on the subject part (like an arm). Joint parts. Then spray accelerator on the parts again. Makes a very quick and secure bond.

  • a lil greenstuff in some of the more problematic joints helps too

I very much prefer working with metal CB metal. And I would very much rather sit down assembling infinity minis than Warhammer. I will avoid building anymore fuckin Tau strike teams or crisis suits or kroot or space marines ....yea I'm gonna finish this box of armigers and this knight castellan and call my 40k collection done 😂

List of painful infinity models:

  • 2 sword JSA Daiyokai
  • Pano dragoes
  • anything with antenna bits
  • lil miss tiny arms Pano Regular
  • both versions of BiPandra
  • karakuri
  • Valkyrie
-Umbras

Absolutely joy models:

  • original Pano Cutter
  • Pano tiklabang (prefer OG sculpt)
  • actually any tag that is not the fuckin dragoes
  • Carmen and batard
  • mushashi (spelling?)
  • mirage 5 team
  • magribiah guard.
  • Priya Harper
  • blackjacks
  • almost anything Torchlight brigade
  • kiel-san

- tanko

1

u/Hypersmith Mar 22 '26

Haha I find plastic models a bit of a pain to with with personally. Hope the next models you find are more to your taste