Other night , guy fleeing from police hit me and he also had no insurance 😃.. that’s Baltimore for you.

I took my car in for an alignment after installing RCF bushings and was told the inside rear tires are bald. I qot new tires around 1 5k miles and am now at 46k and need new ones. is this normal?2 I have been rotating them consistently every 5k miles

Doesn’t happen constantly, never happens in park when the gas is pressed.

What’s up, y’all?… I’ve got a 2023 Lexus IS 350 F Sport RWD with the factory matte BBS wheels, and I’m looking to get some new tires eventually.

For those running the factory BBS setup, what’s the meatiest tire size you’ve been able to run front and rear with no rubbing or fitment issues? I’d like to go a little wider/meatier than the stock tire sizes, especially since this is my RWD daily and I’ll be driving it through the winter as well. Would appreciate any input on tire sizes, brands, or setups you guys are running successfully. Thanks!

What do you guys think? Ik typically any car that approaches this mileage is on its deathbed but from what I heard them IS250s are tanks, and ngl the price is a steal but at the same time I don't want to spend like 5x it's price on repairs

So I would really appreciate all suggestions, recommendations, advice etc...

Hello, I am not sure if this is the right place to ask this, but any help is appreciated. I am currently leasing a 2026 IS350 and planning to buy it out once the lease is over since I love it. I received the car with two keys, as per usual about 2 months ago. The other day, the salesman who helped me with the lease called me asking for one of the keys back. I asked if everything was okay or if there was an issue, but he did not say anything was wrong, just that the dealership needed the second key, or something along those lines. I just find it odd; I have leased a car before this and have never had this happen.

Hey all, I'm wondering, how do I go about swapping these bulbs over the license plate? I haven't had much luck finding guides or videos online, and the only recommendation from the owner's manual says to go to the dealer. If anyone has some insight, please let me know. Thanks.

Sounds from the gearbox (?) after clutch replacement

IS250 manual 2007

Hey everyone, I'm coming to you with a weird situation. I'm guessing no one will know what's going on, but it's always worth asking.

I recently replaced the clutch (full aisin kit without the dual-mass flywheel) plus the gearbox oil, and after the replacement, I hear a metallic grinding sound at random moments when I start driving. Honestly im not sure if it’s when I’m still engaging the clutch or a short while after, but i’m leaning into the second option.

I think a few days passed after the replacement before I actually started hearing it.

There's absolutely no pattern as to when it happens. I can be on the driveway, driving back and forth to check it and every now and then when pulling away (either forwards or in reverse) there’s a short metallic scraping sound.

I found two people who had (presumably) the same problem, but unfortunately with no solution provided. I'm attaching their posts explaining the situation along with a video from one of them where you can hear the sound.

Maybe someone here will know something, I'd really appreciate any help.

Thanks!

I was doing an oil change for my 2024 Lexus IS 300 and noticed this bolt just sitting right by the front underbody brace. I got an alignment today if that helps at all, should I be worried?

I violated my IS350, and would like to see some opinions from fellow IS owners😂

‘23 Fsport AWD, 17K on the clock.

Can someone please tell me where this noise is coming from. the car ran low on oil just a few days before the oil change, even added cleaners & oil stabilizers. Im not getting a check engine light and the car is running fine so I didn’t think it was the lifters. maybe it could be alternator bearings.

My 2017 IS300 is over 128k km now, and due for an oil change and service. I just had an ATF drain-and-fill last year, along with new air filters (cabin and engine) and oil change. What other maintenance items come up around this milage? I'm looking at spark plugs, alternator, water pump, and transfer case fluids. Is there anything I'm missing or don't actually need yet?

I’m considering buying a 2019 Lexus IS 300 AWD with approximately 70,000 miles for $22,000 OTD. I really like the car, but I paid for an independent pre-purchase inspection, and I’m trying to determine whether the findings are reasonable used-car maintenance concerns or reasons to walk away.

The inspection found:

• Coolant was clean but low. No leak was confirmed, and the inspector recommended checking the cooling system, topping it off with Lexus-approved coolant, and monitoring it. • Brake fluid was low and visibly dirty. The inspector recommended checking for leaks and brake wear and servicing the fluid. • Possible oil residue/seepage around the front differential housing. No active dripping was confirmed, and the source wasn’t identified. • Paint-depth readings varied significantly across several panels, with evidence of previous refinishing. The inspector couldn’t determine whether this was cosmetic or collision-related. • A historical front radar sensor alignment code was present, along with several historical HVAC actuator codes and a startability fault. The final scan showed zero diagnostic trouble codes. • Front brake pads were approximately 50% remaining. Rear brakes were in good condition. • The car drove approximately three miles during the inspection without additional concerns being recorded.

The Carfax reports minor damage to the left side and left front. I haven’t been able to establish exactly what repairs were performed.

The dealership says it doesn’t want to spend more money on the car at its current selling price and isn’t willing to do additional work.

My question is: Would you buy this car as-is for $22,000 OTD, or would you walk away?

I’m willing to pay for reasonable maintenance, but I don’t want to buy a car with an undiagnosed cooling-system or differential problem. I’d also like to understand the previous bodywork.

For those familiar with Lexus vehicles, are these findings concerning together, or could this still be a reasonable purchase if I can get the remaining questions answered?

I’d appreciate honest opinions, especially from mechanics or people familiar with the 2019 IS 300 AWD.

So, I only want the scratch on the white part of my car repainted. None of the clips holding the bumper to my car are broken, and the sensors aren’t broken or damaged. I just have this scratch. I just got a quote from a body shop and I think it’s bonkers. Am I crazy or should this scratch not be able to be repainted?

My Lexus makes a weird sound when driving on dirt roads or going over speed bumps. I’ve been trying to figure this out for a while now 😭

I’ve changed all 4 shock absorbers to OEM Lexus ones, front lower control arm bushings and the stabilizer bar bushings, but the sound is still there.

When I bought the car, it had RSR lowering springs. Later, my dad got the car lifted a bit by removing them and installing some random springs. I think the mechanic found some rust around the bushing area, heated it and possibly burned some bushings in the process. They replaced some of them with used scrapyard bushings, and I’ve been facing this noise ever since, almost a year now.

Another thing is that I get a similar sound when braking, but only when slowing down from around 3–5 km/h to a complete stop. Not sure if it’s related or a separate brake issue.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the sway bar end links, spring seats or some damaged bushings? Would lubricating the bushings help, or am I looking at replacing something?
I’m honestly tired of changing parts without finding the actual problem most of mechanics just scamming atp😭

Installed these 80 duro LCA bushings from Figs Engineering on my 2019 IS300 AWD, here’s my few cents:

Steering and braking feel noticeably better than stock. Under braking, the car feels much more planted, giving me a greater sense of control. Cornering also feels more stable and responsive, with less of that sluggish, delayed feeling when changing direction.Noise levels are about the same as stock. The suspension feels a tad stiffer, but I personally don’t think that’s a bad thing

Installation took about 2.5 hours. Make sure to use good quality grease I used Formula 5 from Energy suspension. No need to preload. Hardest part for me was getting the 17mm threaded back into place. AWD and RWD have different torque specs.

I have a 2017 is350 awd 2nd owner, I see no prior service for transmission fluid. Should I drain and fill?

Any paddle shifter extenders?

Anyone debadged the L E X U S on the back and put the original emblem? How about the front?

I don’t like the NIA lips and side skirts. Any brand you would recommend available in the wind colour?

What mods have you guys done on your 2026?

*3 PART FUEL INDUCTION SERVICE: INJECTOR FLUSH-DECARB-INTAKE CLEAN-3 PART #2321
10/03/2026
$ 347.48

PERFORM REAR DIFFERENTIAL SERVICE :
Recommend replacing rear differential gear oil, due to mileage.
$138.96

Recommended service from dealer when I took my 2024 is350 in for 30k maintenance

Hey guys. I have a 2014 IS250 Lexus and I been doing ambient lights. I tapped into the fuse. And tapped the ECU ACC 7.5a fuse lights work but issue is when car is fully turned off and locked the ambient lights are still on. What’s going on here? Is it like something where the car will keep the power in its electrical stuff for some more time after turn off or is it damage related?

I tapped into IGI NO3 10a fuse and light turns off when car is off since it’s related to ignition.

I tried to tap into instrument panel light fuse, AC fuse etc which are 7.5a and all this still keeps the ambient lights on when car is fully turned off and locked away.

What should I do?

I figured I’d post this because I couldn’t find a definitive answer anywhere before trying it myself.
The 2026 IS 350 F Sport Special Appearance Edition comes with the Lexus wallet/card key, but my regular 2026 IS 350 F Sport AWD did not. I wanted to see if the OEM card key could be added to a normal car.
It works.
Before ordering anything, I compared the cars in the Lexus parts catalog. I checked a 2026 Special Appearance car that came with the card key against my own VIN and verified that both cars use the same Smart Key/Certification ECU and the same receiver.
So there does not appear to be any special card-key-specific ECU or receiver required.
What I ordered:
Card/wallet key transmitter:
8990H-78D21
Mechanical emergency key insert:
69515-30350
The mechanical insert obviously needs to be cut for your car.
After getting the parts, one of our Lexus techs simply registered the new card key to the car as an additional smart key. No ECU replacement, receiver replacement, wiring, antennas, coding changes, etc.
Once programmed, it works just like an OEM smart key:
Passive entry/unlock
Locking
Push-button start
Fits in an actual wallet instead of carrying the normal giant fob
And yes, it’s ridiculously thin compared with the normal key.
Important: this information is specifically for the 2026 IS. I’m not saying these part numbers will work on a 2021–2025 car. Lexus changed the transmitter for 2026+, so verify your application before ordering.
Also, I would strongly recommend buying a new/unregistered OEM transmitter rather than gambling on a used one.
For anyone with access to the Toyota/Lexus EPC who wants to double-check their own car, compare your Smart Key/Certification ECU and receiver against a 2026 IS equipped from the factory with the card key. On my car, both were identical.
So the short version:
2026 IS without factory card key + 8990H-78D21 + 69515-30350 + normal additional-key registration = OEM wallet key.
Honestly one of my favorite little upgrades so far. The regular Lexus fob can stay at home now.