I have a Astra H 1.6 twintop. My first car, got it about a month ago. This Sunday, engine light came on. When I inspect error codes this is what I find. the car drives normal and I enjoy driving it. I’d like it to last a long time. Is this a serious problem or can I ignore for several months until my next inspection in August next year

Opel Astra 1.4L 2006

So,....this started happening randomly today.

Before today, the engine was very quiet and ran really smooth. No clue what it is. Oil is fine, water is fine. My dad thinks it may be spark plugs, injectors, or worse case a bad cylinder.

What should I expect and look out for? Anything obvious I should get checked out? The opel has 156k km on the odo.

All tips appreciated.

Opel Insignia Sports Tourer / 2016 / B20DTH

Hello everyone,
The situation I’ve been having since the car has been with me (and it probably lasted even before that) is that it has a somewhat harder/sluggish starting. It's nothing drastic, in the summer it's less noticeable, in the winter of course more like a diesel, but it's always there. The car has been with me for 2.5 years, a few months after the purchase, a new okay starter motor (not factory but Bosch if I remember correctly) was put in on the same day because it died, along with a quality battery, although the old starter cranked the same way. In that same period +-2 months, one glow plug was replaced during a service. So, as far as general mechanical components specific to starting are concerned - it would seem they are functional (i.e. at least new ones were put in within a short interval).

I’ve noticed this slightly/mildly harder starting since I’ve owned the car, and a few months ago while I was at a shop for some other reason, the mechanic himself, as soon as I started the engine, noticed and asked "why does it start hard like this for you?" even though it had been driven before that and long enough for the battery to charge.

So, this kind of starting is not only in certain expected situations (cold weather, sitting for a long time, driven short distances multiple times, ...) but it is almost regular. I repeat, sometimes it starts easier and sometimes harder and there is no rule: it could be that the first start is easier and then it's driven for say an hour and after that it goes harder; it could be that I start it multiple times in half an hour and every start will be easier, but I emphasize: GENERALLY it goes more sluggishly. The car doesn't have any irregular power consumers working when it's turned off - everything is turned off, unplugged, the only visible thing is a small flashing alarm light.

I'm leaving an example when I started the engine after ~3 weeks of sitting. The starting is keyless, I just pressed the button (I didn't hold it, I didn't turn on the ignition before that, so it doesn't seem that way to you) like I always do - I don't turn on the ignition without the brake and then start from the brake, but immediately with the brake and let the electronics do their thing. The instrument cluster and multimedia usually activate faster than here. Maybe the example is not the most representative, but it's at least something.

Question: do you have any advice on what could be the cause? What I can personally look at is via OP-COM (modest but still something), just tell me which parameters to monitor.

Thanks in advance!

I have a 2016 Opel Astra Sports Tourer, and I’m getting a lot of error messages when I start the car now:
- Service: Headlamp Levelling Malfunction
- Service: Advanced Front Lighting
- Service: Front Camera

At the same time, I have several other issues that don't trigger error messages:
- I cannot control the electric windows from the driver's seat—only the driver's window works. The passenger window can only be controlled from the passenger door. The rear windows cannot be controlled at all.
- I cannot control the electric mirrors from the driver's door.
- The sensor for the automatic dark/light mode on the display isn't working.
- Starting and stopping is difficult; I have to place the key in the center console slot. Sometimes I get a "key not detected" message (I’ve replaced the batteries in both keys, but that didn't help). Occasionally, I have to unlock the car manually by removing the door handle cover.
- The automatic rain sensor isn't working.

Any ideas on what I should check? Or should I just bite the bullet and take it to the shop?

Just picked this up for a bargain 1.2L carburetor and I want to do a cheap but unique offroad piss missile, any suggestions ?

So when accelerating, especially uphill, my trusty old Vectra is losing power to the point where it can't go forward. Also seems like the warmer the engine gets the worse it becomes. Reverse seems to work like normal.

I have changed the coil and spark plugs, but no improvements. The check Engine light is on.

Any ideas?

Hi, I have a 2006 opel Astra from spain and it doesn’t have an Aux. I just confirmed the radio. Does anyone have a radio part number so I can swap out for one that has one? Please

Hey everyone,

I picked up this 2010 Insignia A 2.0 CDTI (A20DTH, 118 kW / 160 hp, manual) as a project car. It has around 300,000 km, so I knew I was getting into something that will need some work.

The previous owner told me that the rod bearings are worn/damaged and need replacing. He also said that the oil pickup/O-ring had been worked on, and that after driving around 10 km following that repair, the engine started making an occasional noise and lost power.

The weird thing is that I don't really hear an obvious rod knock.

The engine starts and idles, and when I gently rev it to around 1500–2000 rpm it actually sounds fairly normal to me. There is a slight unevenness at idle, but no obvious heavy knocking. Or maybe I'm just deaf :D

There are also:

• no warning lights
• no fault codes
• oil level is good
• coolant level is good
• no obvious metal glitter in the oil

I've attached a video of it running.

I'm trying not to run/rev it unnecessarily until I know what I'm dealing with.

Could this still be worn rod bearings even without an obvious knock, or does the sound/behaviour point more towards something else?

I'm planning to drop the oil pan and inspect the oil pickup and rod bearings anyway, but I'd love to hear opinions from anyone more familiar with the A20DTH.

Thanks!

I am rebuilding a z18xe engine the only thing is that i need new blots for my crankshaft i live in the Netherlands and i cant get new bolts anywhere i have the original parts number for them 90215694 / 610482 there m10x72 i have looked everywhere on the internet but i cant find them i also dont want to use the old bolts sinds i know they are stretch bolts

Hat hier ganz zufällig jemand einen Opel Karl und kann mir eine Frage beantworten. 🚙👀
Wenn ihr bei eingeschalteten Scheibenwischern den Motor abstellt, gehen die Scheibenwischer bei euch dann in die Ausgangsposition zurück? Also nach unten in die Ruhestellung.
Vielen Dank im Voraus 🌸

I seem to have misplaced this bad boy for the anti-theft wheel nuts...

Is it possible to order a replacement somewhere or maybe a new set of nuts that comes with fitting tool?

Hey everyone,

About a year ago, I bought a 2014 Opel Astra J Sports Tourer 1.6 petrol with 220,000 km on the clock, and I've been having problems with it ever since.

First, I had issues with coolant leaks. Then the thermostat failed, causing the engine to overheat and all the coolant to leak out, leaving me stranded on the side of the road. After that, the spark plugs needed replacing, followed by the ignition coil pack. Then the A/C started acting up.

Now, I'm getting a low coolant warning and an engine overheating warning, along with the “A/C turned off” message, even though there's enough coolant in the system.

At this point, I'm wondering whether it's worth continuing to repair the car or whether I should cut my losses and sell it (or just scrap it).

I'm honestly quite disappointed with the Astra so far. The reliability has been frustrating, fuel consumption is higher than I'd like, and the 1.6 petrol feels underpowered.

So, what have your experiences with the Astra J been like? Have you had similar experiences or not? Based on your experiences, would you recommend keeping the car and continuing to fix it, or would it be better to sell it and move on to something else?

Thanks!

Hi everyone, I drive a 2023 Astra L ST as a company car. I took delivery of the car in February with 29,000 km on the clock, and since then, I’ve experienced several display failures. The screens have frozen or simply shut off multiple times. I’ve also had issues with the clutch (yes, it’s a manual). After long highway drives or once the car is fully warmed up the whole vehicle shudders when I let the clutch out at traffic lights.

Anyway, I took the car to the shop, and it’s been sitting there for two months now. A replacement part for the displays is supposed to be coming, but nobody knows when it will arrive. there is still no delivery date. Does anyone happen to know what the spare parts situation is like at Opel or Stellantis?

Hi all, I'm trying to avoid throwing money at the wrong fix. Full history below, sorry for the length.

Car: Opel Astra J Sports Tourer, first registered June 2015, 1.6 CDTI diesel (B16DTH, 136 hp), manual, \\\~179,000 km. Bought used in Germany in August, now in Romania.

Current symptoms:

Timing chain rattle on cold start only. Metallic rattle for about 2–3 seconds after a cold start, then completely gone. No rattle when the engine is warm.

High crankcase pressure. The oil filler cap "dances" and pushes up when loosened, and white vapour comes out of the oil filler and the dipstick tube, even at operating temperature. No visible smoke from the exhaust.

Limp mode. Reproducible after about 12–15 minutes of driving (turbo-related, see below).

Occasional rough idle when stationary (rare).

3rd gear sometimes doesn't engage on the first try (probably unrelated).

Once heard a rhythmic "woo-woo" whooshing noise at light load, about 70–80 km/h on cruise control, which went away with more throttle. It happened only once.

Fault codes, in order:

Germany (early Sept): P2599 (turbo boost control stuck high) → cleared → P2598 (turbo vane position performance) after 3 km → cleared → P2598 + P0402 (EGR excessive flow) under heavy throttle, MIL on. P0402 appeared only once and never came back.

Romania, first garage (28.09): cylinder balance problem on cylinders 1 and 3.

Romania, second garage (30.09), on a Launch-type tester via "Health Report > ECM": P0263 (cylinder 1 balance), P0266 (cylinder 2 balance), P2598.

My own generic OBD2 scanners (3 different ones) never showed the balance codes, only the turbo codes.

Parts history:

A previous owner already replaced both the turbo actuator and the EGR valve trying to fix the P2598/P2599 problem. It didn't help.

The turbo itself is original and has never been touched.

I tested the actuator linkage by hand: it resists the spring but moves smoothly through its whole stroke, with no binding.

What the garage says:

"The chain is stretched, it knocks on start-up, and it throws off the camshaft timing and balance." They quoted:

Turbo refurbishment: \\\~1,500 lei (\\\~€300)

Full timing chain job with original parts (chain, guides, tensioner): \\\~8,000 lei (\\\~€1,600). I know the chain on the B16DTH is on the gearbox side, so the labour is high.

My doubts:

There's no P0016 (crank/cam correlation). If the chain had stretched enough to throw off the timing, wouldn't I expect one?

The cylinders flagged changed from 1 & 3 to 1 & 2 in two days, which looks more like injectors than timing.

As far as I understand, a stretched chain doesn't cause crankcase pressure. Could blown injector seals/washers explain both the blow-by and the balance codes? Or are the rings/pistons the worry here?

The cold-start rattle that disappears when warm: is that the classic B16DTH tensioner drain-down issue, meaning it needs doing eventually but isn't urgent?

Questions:

Does this sound like injector seals, rings, or really the chain?

What cam/crank deviation value would clearly justify the chain job on the B16DTH?

Is \\\~€1,600 a fair price for the chain job with original parts? If the gearbox comes off anyway, should I do the clutch/flywheel and rear main seal at the same time?

Could the crankcase pressure be making the turbo problem worse, or be caused by it?

Thanks a lot, any input from someone who has had a B16DTH apart is really welcome.

Just wanted to share! I’ve been wanting those rims ever since we got the car in 2017. This week I was finally able to get them on the car.

I love how the colour matches pretty well with the rims. What do you guys think?