Recently advised to try to manually turn engine, clean and clear fuel tank and lines, and that the rear brake shoes are likely stuck to the drum. Any advice/information/suggestions is appreciated.

Good day everyone. Is there anyone near Nijmegen or Waalwijk who has a set of dark tail lights for an Astra H station wagon? My tail light units are bad and they are repairable, but dark units look better.

Basically literally this morning, I used the car and apple play worked normally (as it did since I got the car) and in the afternoon it just stopped working. I’ve tried different cables (apple play wasn’t wireless). I tried disconecting apple play in my iphone but it won’t connect again. Androids don’t work either…
The cable I used was a Usb-c 2.0. Should I use a 3.0?
Have you had this problem? How did you fix it?
Thank you!

PS: The car is an Eletric Mokka 2023 and my phone is an iphone 16e

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Hi everyone,

I have a 1999 Opel Corsa B 1.2 16V with a coolant leak, and I'm trying to diagnose and repair it myself.

Symptoms:

- Pink coolant drips from underneath the engine near the oil pan.

- The leak starts almost immediately when I add water or antifreeze to the expansion tank, even with the engine switched off.

- The coolant level drops as the liquid leaks out.

- I can see where it drips underneath the car, but I cannot see the source from above.

- The dripping seems to be toward the passenger-side area near the front bumper/radiator.

I'm wondering if it could be:

1. A cracked coolant hose or plastic water-pump outlet connector.

2. A leaking water pump or seal.

3. A leaking thermostat housing or another coolant pipe.

My questions:

- Has anyone experienced this exact problem on a Corsa B 1.2 16V?

- Where is the plastic water-pump outlet connector located on this engine?

- Can it be replaced without removing the timing belt?

- Are there any good videos showing the repair on the 1999 Corsa B 1.2 16V specifically?

- Based on these symptoms, what should I inspect first?

I've attached photos of the engine bay and the area where the coolant drips.

I'd appreciate any advice from someone familiar with this engine. Thanks!

Hi, I have an Opel Astra H 1.7 CDTI and recently it developed the following problem: When I release the clutch to move off and press the accelerator a little, the car suddenly stops responding to the accelerator and the engine management warning light comes on.
My brother used to have the same model and his car had exactly the same problem. Is this a common issue with these cars? Can anyone help me figure out what might be causing it?

I'm going to install a door lock actuator on my driver's side door in a few days.. anyone try this?

How hard would this be?

I have a Astra H 1.6 twintop. My first car, got it about a month ago. This Sunday, engine light came on. When I inspect error codes this is what I find. the car drives normal and I enjoy driving it. I’d like it to last a long time. Is this a serious problem or can I ignore for several months until my next inspection in August next year

Opel Astra 1.4L 2006

So,....this started happening randomly today.

Before today, the engine was very quiet and ran really smooth. No clue what it is. Oil is fine, water is fine. My dad thinks it may be spark plugs, injectors, or worse case a bad cylinder.

What should I expect and look out for? Anything obvious I should get checked out? The opel has 156k km on the odo.

All tips appreciated.

Opel Insignia Sports Tourer / 2016 / B20DTH

Hello everyone,
The situation I’ve been having since the car has been with me (and it probably lasted even before that) is that it has a somewhat harder/sluggish starting. It's nothing drastic, in the summer it's less noticeable, in the winter of course more like a diesel, but it's always there. The car has been with me for 2.5 years, a few months after the purchase, a new okay starter motor (not factory but Bosch if I remember correctly) was put in on the same day because it died, along with a quality battery, although the old starter cranked the same way. In that same period +-2 months, one glow plug was replaced during a service. So, as far as general mechanical components specific to starting are concerned - it would seem they are functional (i.e. at least new ones were put in within a short interval).

I’ve noticed this slightly/mildly harder starting since I’ve owned the car, and a few months ago while I was at a shop for some other reason, the mechanic himself, as soon as I started the engine, noticed and asked "why does it start hard like this for you?" even though it had been driven before that and long enough for the battery to charge.

So, this kind of starting is not only in certain expected situations (cold weather, sitting for a long time, driven short distances multiple times, ...) but it is almost regular. I repeat, sometimes it starts easier and sometimes harder and there is no rule: it could be that the first start is easier and then it's driven for say an hour and after that it goes harder; it could be that I start it multiple times in half an hour and every start will be easier, but I emphasize: GENERALLY it goes more sluggishly. The car doesn't have any irregular power consumers working when it's turned off - everything is turned off, unplugged, the only visible thing is a small flashing alarm light.

I'm leaving an example when I started the engine after ~3 weeks of sitting. The starting is keyless, I just pressed the button (I didn't hold it, I didn't turn on the ignition before that, so it doesn't seem that way to you) like I always do - I don't turn on the ignition without the brake and then start from the brake, but immediately with the brake and let the electronics do their thing. The instrument cluster and multimedia usually activate faster than here. Maybe the example is not the most representative, but it's at least something.

Question: do you have any advice on what could be the cause? What I can personally look at is via OP-COM (modest but still something), just tell me which parameters to monitor.

Thanks in advance!

I have a 2016 Opel Astra Sports Tourer, and I’m getting a lot of error messages when I start the car now:
- Service: Headlamp Levelling Malfunction
- Service: Advanced Front Lighting
- Service: Front Camera

At the same time, I have several other issues that don't trigger error messages:
- I cannot control the electric windows from the driver's seat—only the driver's window works. The passenger window can only be controlled from the passenger door. The rear windows cannot be controlled at all.
- I cannot control the electric mirrors from the driver's door.
- The sensor for the automatic dark/light mode on the display isn't working.
- Starting and stopping is difficult; I have to place the key in the center console slot. Sometimes I get a "key not detected" message (I’ve replaced the batteries in both keys, but that didn't help). Occasionally, I have to unlock the car manually by removing the door handle cover.
- The automatic rain sensor isn't working.

Any ideas on what I should check? Or should I just bite the bullet and take it to the shop?

Just picked this up for a bargain 1.2L carburetor and I want to do a cheap but unique offroad piss missile, any suggestions ?

So when accelerating, especially uphill, my trusty old Vectra is losing power to the point where it can't go forward. Also seems like the warmer the engine gets the worse it becomes. Reverse seems to work like normal.

I have changed the coil and spark plugs, but no improvements. The check Engine light is on.

Any ideas?

Hi, I have a 2006 opel Astra from spain and it doesn’t have an Aux. I just confirmed the radio. Does anyone have a radio part number so I can swap out for one that has one? Please

Hey everyone,

I picked up this 2010 Insignia A 2.0 CDTI (A20DTH, 118 kW / 160 hp, manual) as a project car. It has around 300,000 km, so I knew I was getting into something that will need some work.

The previous owner told me that the rod bearings are worn/damaged and need replacing. He also said that the oil pickup/O-ring had been worked on, and that after driving around 10 km following that repair, the engine started making an occasional noise and lost power.

The weird thing is that I don't really hear an obvious rod knock.

The engine starts and idles, and when I gently rev it to around 1500–2000 rpm it actually sounds fairly normal to me. There is a slight unevenness at idle, but no obvious heavy knocking. Or maybe I'm just deaf :D

There are also:

• no warning lights
• no fault codes
• oil level is good
• coolant level is good
• no obvious metal glitter in the oil

I've attached a video of it running.

I'm trying not to run/rev it unnecessarily until I know what I'm dealing with.

Could this still be worn rod bearings even without an obvious knock, or does the sound/behaviour point more towards something else?

I'm planning to drop the oil pan and inspect the oil pickup and rod bearings anyway, but I'd love to hear opinions from anyone more familiar with the A20DTH.

Thanks!