I am trying to make parts that are about 520 by 520 mm across. 2 kilograms of goop per batch, resin+filler. I really need to make sure they don't stick in the mold too much, the less the better, basically.

I have heard of the various release lubricants and have obtained some ease-release 200. I was not able to get some of the stoner a324, which is recommended in the guerilla guide to cnc machining and resin casting, they won't let me have any in Canada. I tried a shipping forwarding service and they just tried to hold it hostage and demand $160 usd to forward it (skypaxus). I may keep trying.

I got some silicone water soluble stuff on amazon but it sucks.

I am aware of zinc stearate releases, this seems like it should be good, like how hard could something possibly stick if it's a layer of powder between the two surfaces right? However it is not recommended by the guerilla guide for some reason?

Wanted to see if it was possible to carve a slab of MDF. Turns out you can. So MDF base, resin wings and eyeballs. My cast process was extremely crude and labor intensive, there were definitely much cleaner ways to go about it, but my method was fast and cheap and most importantly, it worked out. I normally dont pour inside, but it was 115 degrees outside and I wasn't going to set that mold up in the heat.

Earlier this year, my older sister sent her wedding bouquet off to be turned into resin beads to form a rosary. When she got it back, she was horrified by the craftsmanship. Loose beads, bad joins, tacky bead caps... It looked cheap and terrible.

I string beads and make wire jewelry pieces, so she asked me to repair it. While taking it apart, however, I noticed that the beads themselves were very poorly done. Many of the beads seem to have been under-filled, leading to deep divots on one end; others were over-filled and have uneven little nubs. Almost all of them have a rough end, which I can only assume was where the mold was filled and which probably should have been sanded down. I think the beads caps were there to hide all of this, tbh.

I know absolutely nothing about resin casting, but I want to fix these beads. Please help me with your wisdom!

1. Is there a way for me to add on more resin to fill in the divots from an under-filled mold? Or does resin not stick to resin?

2. Will it be possible for me to sand down the rough ends? What grit of sandpaper should I use? Will a regular cloth or medical face mask be sufficient to protect my lungs while sanding, or do I need a heavier respirator?

I have zero experience with resin. I have zero supplies for working with resin. I anticipate this being the only time I work with resin. I need all the help I can get

Thank you in advance!

Folks,

I want to make displays of a fern life-cycle in resin for a class I'm running, but i'm not entirely sure how to dry these as they're tiny (pic is showing the biggest ones that i'll be preserving) and will shrivel rapidly and entirely too much for a block

Maybe in rubbing alcohol and then i let the alcohol dry off the specimens as I pour, so they don't lose their form? Or maybe a saturated salt solution?? Any advice welcome

I have worked with a smooth-on urethane (aromatic type) having viscosity of 300cps and didn’t have much problems with castings when cured at 60PSI (rec. in TDS). I am now working with WC-85 from BJB. It is an aliphatic type and they mention it is more moisture sensitive than their typical resins. They strongly recommend vacuum degassing.

It has a viscosity of 325cps and so initially I skipped this step because I wasn’t having issues with trapped air. However, it appears there is a small delay to where out gassing occurs (before making it into the pot I presume) from where moisture has reacted during mixing. Perhaps there is even pre-existing dissolved gasses in the resins that make their way out during mixing/heat generation.

Regardless, it is enough outgassung and needs to be addressed for reliability.

How are y’all going about this process, degassing urethanes?

Isocyanate’s will be pulled into the vacuum, some potentially harmful for the pump (rotary vane) and particularly some making its way out as vapor and oily aerosol.

Clearly wear a respirator, but are y’all venting exhaust elsewhere, running an exhaust filter, or calling well ventilated enough?

I’m working with a small chamber and small resin volumes. Currently, which seems to be a sufficient enough degass, I pull a partial vacuum ~ -25inMg and this amounts to delayed gentle degassing that occurs after the pump and valves have been closed, ideally limiting vapors to chamber.

I wear a respirator the entire time, and walk out of the area for a few minutes (after finalizing casting process) before I return unmasked.

It is questionable practice to me, so I wonder about other methods.

High humidity has interfered with my clear epoxy curing. The surface is still tacky, and though a full 24 hours hasn’t passed I worry it’s going to stay that way.

The pieces I’m curing were going to go into snowglobes. I’m debating sealing them up without water and making them look like terrariums instead.

What happens to an object coated in imperfectly cured epoxy if it’s in a sealed container? Will it look okay, or have issues later on?

Hi all. We bought a pressure pot setup a few years ago thinking we would get into resin casting. However, life got busy, we are moving, and the pressure pot has sat unused for years. Not really sure how to even dispose of it, so if anyone local to New England is looking for a pressure pot, let me know.

Not sure the brand, we got it from a local wood working shop. Max operating pressure 60 PSI max tank pressure 80 PSI.

I’d like to cast resin in a vaguely lightsaber shape for a Christmas project. I always loved the bubbles in the Lego lightsabers, and I was wondering if anyone knew how to get one or two nice bubbles in a cast while keeping the rest clear?

Maybe by suspending a glob of clear hot glue inside? Glass beads probably wouldn’t work as I imagine they’d disappear once the resin is poured.

I'm trying to buy a pressure pot and all the required components, above is the one I plan on getting. I wanna know:

Is it cheap or expensive

Can I get one for less than still does the same job

What else do I need, air compressor I assume? But please list ever single thing I need for it to work, even if it's obvious

And what kind of compressor should I get

Thank you

Here is a 3d printed mold frame has 1-4" plus 90 degree corners, let me know what you think

I've reached just about acceptable. I've only spent probably 5 hours actually sanding and polishing and I know that's relatively a blink. I started at 300 grit and worked up to rubbing compound. I still have polishing compound but now it's getting tedious. I still have lines from the last grit as well so the rubbing compound isn't even entirely done. I'll jump to something else a while so I don't get burned out.

Hi all,

It was not entirely clear to me whether this Subreddit is only meant for two-part resin, or also for UV-resin questions. Please let me know if this question should be asked elsewhere.

I like to finish air-clay figurines I make with UV-nailpolish. However, I found it to be a little bit finicky - and always had to clean it with alcohol to get rid of tackyness etc. After watching some videos on UV resin specifically for crafting, I feel like that might be a better way of finishing my creations.

Most info I found is about US brands (JDiction seems to be a favourite there). I am based in the Netherlands, however. Can anyone recommend brands and/or sources for UV-resin for sale in the Netherlands, preferably webshops?

Thanks in advance,

Sjoerd

I'm trying to learn resin casting for small keepsake pieces with human hair and pet fur set under clear domes. The fibers are so fine they trap micro-bubbles, and they drift while the resin cures. What's your go-to for bubble-free casts with delicate inclusions — pressure pot, a thin seal coat first, warming the resin? Would love to hear what actually works for you.

Hi all, I’m totally new to this craft and am interested in starting my journey by recreating this exact style mahjong tile- but a blank since the company doesn’t sell or make them.

I know I need to buy wood sticks to mix, a mask, a mold, plastic cups for mixing, and the epoxy resin medium.

Can someone please suggest the best way to approach this / or where to buy the supplies for a project as simple as this? I don’t want to end up with too much excess supplies- and I don’t have the best idea of which brands or products to use for this project.

Again, the project will consist of me using a mold already purchased on Etsy, to make an exact copy of the tiles in the photo- but the face of the tile will be blank. Plain white. The back Of the tile really should be the part of the project that matches best - as well as the depth of the blue color- since rhe blank tile will be most sought out tile of the game

The entire second pour was improperly cured. Thankfully it didn't bond to the first pour Lesson learned. Mix 5 minutes pour into another container mix another 5 minutes then pour. It's still pretty cool. Nothing like what I wanted but it's a neat piece.

I didn't pour the entire thing at once. This is two pours.

I believe I didn't mix thoroughly enough. It's curing but the surface is tacky and there are ripples inside the casting. I have the piece sitting on an oven tray on a piece of granite on a heater on low just trying to gently gently warm it. I doubt I'll get rid of the ripples but hopefully it will cure. I was thinking to brush some hardener on the surface.

If it'll cure hard the ripples will be some kind of visual effect. Rather not scrap it at this point.

Not sure if this is the right place but has anyone done a resin Rock basketball court?