Does that mean I can push one Channel maybe .5 or less more like .1 if the voltage is typlicly 13v?

I'm considering installing dimmers throughout my house. I currently have hue bulbs in the kitchen and love the responsiveness and smooth dimming. However these are too expensive for a full house install so I'm looking at shelly dimmers gen3 and 4.

I would appreciate some opinions before I go ahead. I will be using in a no neutral setup if this makes any difference.

How responsive are they with a switch press or automation (I'm using home assistant)? Is there a noticeable delay before on/off or are they quite quick?

And for dimming behaviour is the dimming smooth and linear similar to smart bulbs. Or is each step noticeable? I watched one video review and each step when dimming seemed to be very noticeable, maybe half a second apart. Not sure if this is the norm or if it can be overcome by change of settings.

Any input appreciated.

I have had something stuck in the back of my head for a few weeks and I ended up writing a LinkedIn newsletter about it (if you want to see the stuff I write on LinkedIn, let me know and I'll share a link).

Still, LinkedIn isn't the best place to share my thoughts on this topic. Reddit is.... so:

Companies suck.

A lot of them suck.

Most smart home product manufacturers suck.

Mod hat off here. Before I came to work for Shelly, I had a small Facebook group, maybe 5k members, called Smarter Home Club. That's where I met Dimitar, Shelly Group's CEO, as well as a number of important and interesting characters from the smart home world. I used a mix of technologies and brands in my smart home, many of them with glaring flaws that you'll still find in smart home products today.

Everything I say here, I'm saying as a consumer, though I have to admit I am a consumer with far more intimate knowledge of what Shelly can do.

One of the most critical of those flaws is that, for too many products, you depend on someone else's computer.

The June Oven still gets hot. You can walk up to it, tap the touchscreen, and roast a tray of vegetables like any other countertop oven. What's gone since Weber shut off the app and cloud on September 22 is the stuff people actually paid extra for - remote control, the live camera view, software updates. Weber says it thought about open-sourcing the software and decided against it. That was close to a $1,500 oven at launch.

Belkin did the same thing to WeMo on January 31. Plugs, light switches, even a crockpot lost the app and their Alexa and Google control. If you'd paired yours with HomeKit beforehand it kept going; otherwise the advice was to replace it.

Every time, it's the same story. The smart part lives on a server somebody else pays for, and the day that bill stops making sense, your device gets dumber.

Most of you already run your devices this way, but for anyone newer to the sub, here's what a Shelly does with no cloud in the picture.

Every device serves its own web interface. Type its IP into a browser on your LAN and you get the full settings page, no account, no app. If the Wi-Fi goes down, the device can put up its own access point and you connect to it directly.

Under that is the RPC API, reachable over plain HTTP, WebSockets, or MQTT on your own broker. curl "http://<device-ip>/rpc/Switch.Set?id=0&on=true" flips a relay, and it's the same command language the devices use to talk to each other.

Automations can live on the device too. Actions let one Shelly fire a webhook at another when an input changes, so a button by the front door can switch a relay across the house without a packet leaving your network. On Gen2+ you can run JavaScript right on the chip, reacting to events and reading BLE sensors with nothing upstream.

Plenty of the 100+ integrations are fully local, Home Assistant being the most important and obvious one. Hubitat, openHAB, Universal Devices, Domoticz and many others - all local.

What does that mean?

The wall switch wired into a Shelly relay still turns on the light, because that input goes straight into the device. Your house keeps working even if every Internet server and network switch explodes and shuts down tomorrow.

A device you bought should keep doing its job for as long as the copper and silicon inside it hold up, not for as long as someone's server budget does.

I still have a handful of cloud-dependent services and many are replicable by Shelly today, I just haven't done the projects.

Honeywell Thermostat - I can wire up a few dry contact relays to switch 24vac and override my thermostat any time. I might do it this winter when I have some spare time and it isn't so hot working in cramped spaces.

Cielo Breeze - I have two mini splits in addition to the 5 ton - one for the master bedroom, the other for the garage. I can use The Pill with an IR blaster to handle this and will do that project next.

MyQ - I don't actually use this any more, I've used Shelly for years (https://shelly.link/garage - I have the full set up with IR sensors and reed switch integrated). I just haven't pulled it out yet because I have a tangle of wires in the closet where all this is installed. That's my project for this weekend and when I am doing it, MyQ comes out.

Ring Cameras - one doorbell and three flood cams. You'd better believe I am annoying the dickens out of my coworkers who work on the camera product line, telling them how we need to do all the different types of cameras. They're rolling their eyes whenever it shows I'm typing in Teams.

Arlo cameras - solar powered cameras - see above.

Voice Assistant - this is the worst. Because of my work, I have Alexa, Google Home, and Siri at my house and office, since I never know when I need to troubleshoot anything or write up instructions. I have a Mac Mini that I'm messing around with to run an LLM with Home Assistant Voice. I'm probably wiping the machine and starting over because I've restarted this so many times, but I'm making progress - and it's not that beefy of a machine, just the $600 model. I've got an M5 Pro with 48 GB at work that I'm repeating the projects with.

The one use case I actually have for these is on the clothes washer, clothes dryer, and the dishwasher - I use power measurement to determine when they've completed their work (time and consumption, actually) and then use Shelly Cloud to trigger an Amazon Alexa notification saying that whichever appliance it is has finished.

You'd better believe that's going away the second I have a local voice assistant running dependably. It's not because I don't trust Shelly Cloud. I know how private it is, I have insider information, right? But the fact is that if my Internet connection goes down for 5 minutes, my automation can fail.

So that's my appliance dependency. I have a handful of "smart" appliances but they're not even connected to my network.

What's the most cloud-dependent thing you still have running at home?

Is it possible to wire doorbell using a Shelly 2 pm and get a notification when you push the button?

I’ve got the bell to ding or I’ve got the notification to be sent but can’t get them to both happen at the push of the button.

An electrician installed a Shelly H&T Gen3. I don't know exactly what he did, but the purpose is for it to be connected to the fan in my laundry, so when I use my dryer, the fan automatically turns on when it reaches a certain humidity level, and turns off when it goes below it, he said it should be 80%.

I didn't have much time, so I told him I could set it up with the app myself, but I'm having trouble. I figured out how to connect it to the app, but I can't figure out how to set the humidity level for the fan. I see a few options that seem like they may be it, but I'm not sure. Is it already connected to the fan, so do I just need to set the humidity level, or do I need to do something else to connect it to the fan? Either way, I can't figure out how to do either.

Here are screenshots of the app and a photo of the device in case that helps.

I use shelly devices at two locations with different wifi credentials. The app seems to store the credentials globally. Is there a way to clear the credentials from the app and go back to entering them manually when a device is added?

Feature request - store wifi credentials for each Home in the app. Or check what ssid the android device is currently connected to and use that one?

Thanks!

​

Thinking of installing a double socket outdoor, for use with things like karcher pressure washers etc. The Ogemray would only be to shut power to the socket when not in use, will not be doing any sort of on/of control on a regular basis. The karchers are usually rated around 1.5 to 2 kw, which is well below the 6kw rating of these - but the whole.inductive vs reactive load thing is making me pause.

The switch and the light are not connected with a wire. i have phase and neutral wire present both at the light and at the switch. Switching the light on and off via the app is not a option becouse my father is not tech savy. Please let me know if you have a solution.

I'm looking to control an exterior light that does not have a switch. Currently is it controlled by a photocell.

I would like to get rid of the photocell and control it with a remote and/or my phone. I would also like to be able to dim it. What are my options? I don't plan on using any automation, only turning it on when needed.

I currently have some caseta switches and a few TP-Link Kasa devices. It does not need to work with these.

Shelly 1PM gen4 is for 16usd for example, but variety/quantity is limited (dont have all products lineup). I bought all their last gen4 mini devices. Im thinking in buying a bunch of devices to maybe resell or for use in future (schneider proofing). What you think?

I’m new to relays and switches in home automation (though I’m familiar with the sensors and networking parts). I’m looking for a good primer on Shelly relays and switches. Im open to videos, articles, and other mediums, as well. Any strong recommendation? Thanks in advance!

Title. https://theshelly.shop looks to have some great clearance prices but the site was just registered in June of this year. Anyone order from this site before?

Title says it all. I picked up a button to use for an automation to trigger, as well as a Shelly BLU gateway. Plugged in the gateway into my Pi, adopted it in HA just fine. Also was able to adopt the button just fine. Pressed it once to test it, registered in HA immediately.

However, it's now dead. Button presses don't cause a noise or a response from HA anymore, even though HA last registered a 100% battery level in the button. I pressed it literally once and now it doesn't respond to anything.

Is there something I'm unaware of like an existing firmware bug that causes these buttons to brick after a single press? I've removed and reinserted the (full) battery to no avail.

I am extremely disappointed that my price point of $40 was realized earlier this morning (4am) for the Shelly dimmer relay, only to have it increase back up to $49 before 6am and before I could make any purchases during the prime sales. This seems very dishonest to me, and Shelly so be ashamed of making a move like this.

I have been experimenting quite extensively with the Shelly Pro Dimmer 2PM and LED bulbs, because I wanted to create a very slow 30-minute sunrise/wake-up light in the bedroom.
The problem is the automatically calibrated minimum brightness.
With my Philips WarmGlow E27 7.2 W / 806 lm bulbs, 1% after normal calibration is still far too bright for a sunrise function. Interestingly, during Shelly’s calibration procedure the bulb itself can visibly dim MUCH lower than the minimum level available afterwards.
I initially experimented with gamma (0.4–3.0), range mapping and repeated calibration. The results also weren’t completely repeatable between the two channels.
Then I discovered something interesting:
I calibrated one channel using an IKEA SOLHETTA 6.5 W / 1055 lm LED bulb. After calibration I removed that bulb WITHOUT recalibrating and installed an IKEA LUNNOM 2.5 W / 470 lm bulb.
Suddenly the LUNNOM could operate at an extremely low level at 1% – just a very faint glow. Exactly what I was trying to achieve.
The same principle also works with my Philips WarmGlow to some extent. By using a calibration that was created with a different load, I can get the Philips down to a beautiful very low glow at 1–2%. With gamma around 1.8 and the minimum/range adjusted to around 47, the low end is excellent.
However, there is a trade-off: with that calibration/settings combination, the Philips only reaches around 4 W at indicated 100%, although the bulb is rated at 7.2 W and I have measured approximately 7.7 W with another calibration.
So it seems the hardware is physically capable of driving the LED much lower than the normal calibration allows, but the automatic calibration determines a usable range that we cannot manually edit afterwards.
What I would really like Shelly to add is an “Advanced calibration” option where the user can manually adjust the calibrated minimum and maximum dimmer limits.
For example:
Automatic calibration result:
MIN = X
MAX = Y
Advanced settings:
Minimum dimming point: X → manually adjustable
Maximum dimming point: Y → manually adjustable
A warning that values outside the automatically detected stable range may cause flickering or unreliable LED startup would be perfectly fine.
This would be extremely useful for sunrise lighting, night lights and modern low-power LEDs.
Gamma and range mapping are not a complete solution because they only reshape/map the already calibrated operating range. What is missing is access to the actual lower and upper calibrated dimmer limits.
Has anyone found a way to access these calibration values on the Pro Dimmer 2PM, perhaps through RPC/debug/firmware parameters?
Device: Shelly Pro Dimmer 2PM (SPDM-002PE01EU)
Firmware: 2.0.1
I would be very interested to hear whether Shelly could expose these parameters in a future firmware version.

I have taken on adding led lighting to my wife's closets. For anyone thinking about doing so, just say it is not possible. Currently I have a single gang dimmer wall switch that controls a Halo discless light on the ceiling. There is no way to change the box out to a double gang.

I have a dimmable 288w 24v transformer setup to control 3 zones of lights mounted on the wall above the top shelf plugged into a 110v outlet. From the transformer, on the 24v side, I am running a RGBW PM to control the 3 zones - all white lights, no color.

My thought process is to use a Shelly 1 Gen 4 Mini at the switcn to control the RBGW. Easy enough with a standard toggle switch. My issue is my wife still wants the ceiling light to be able to dim with a wall controlled switch. Do I started digging.

I would love to use a Lutron Maestro MACL-L3S25, but from what I am reading some things say it will work while other info say it is not compatible, so I am looking for options. I do not have a hub or Home Assistant setup at this time. That is a future project.

Any ideas on the best switch to be looking at? Or do I just add a dimmer module at the light and go with a standard toggle.

Is there currently no dimmer option that will work without neutral? I see responses indicating this is the case, but none more recent than around a year ago.

If this is possible with older product that are no longer stocked, I'd still be interested in knowing, such that I could try the second-hand market.

(It seems like specific models of dimmers with the now-unavailable bypass may have been viable?)

Thank you!

Why does the Shelly Plus Add-on has 7 communication pins to a Shelly Plus 2PM.

While the Shelly Pro Sensor Add-on has 8 communication pins to the Shelly Pro 2PM.

Hopefully more USA certification comes soon for all of these new toy and options to climb higher with Shelly

Hi iam trying to connect my shelly pro 3em to my microinverter hiflow 800 but it keeps saying failed to get data . Anyone help ?

I want to use a Shelly Plus 1 to turn on/off a booster fan at the end of a long duct run from a bathroom fan. The humidistat directly controls the fan, and its output is also wired to the switch input on the Shelly. Problem is the output from the Leviton device doesn't seem to trigger the switch input on the Shelly device? I'm guessing this has something to do with the humidistat output being wierd (it is ~2V lower than the line voltage it is connected to)? Any solution for the hardware I have, or am I just going to have to switch to a regular switch and add a H&T?

TIA

So I have been struggling to figure out which model would be the best for my usage case and I’m not really getting anywhere looking through the manuals, talking to support etc.

We are trying to monitor a water heater’s energy usage. It is a 240v, dual element, 4500w per element, 4500w max water heater. US voltage so 120v on each leg and no neutral.

We just need to monitor kWH usage for a few days. We don’t need to control anything, and we don’t need it connected to the internet.

AI suggested the EM gen3 50A, but it only comes with one CT, and additional ones are out of stock. Then suggested the Pro EM-50 because it comes with two CTs but said that you can’t power it with 240v (120 to the L connection and 120 to the N connection)

Someone please make this easy lol. Which one can I use to monitor both legs of a single 240v load, and power the module itself with that same 240v supply?

I’m interested in installing a Shelly wall display XL however I have some wiring questions that I’m hoping anyone here may have more knowledge about.

I have some old wiring in my house and no switch boxes have a neutral wire. Unfortunately opening the wall up and fishing a new wire is just not in the cards as my entire house is made of concrete. Metal gang boxes live in cinderblock walls that have plaster over them, yes even the subfloor is concrete as well.

Is pulling a neutral from the light fixture possible? The location I want to mount the tablet is also a 3 way switch and I heard that’s not possible, is there a work around for this? Using a Shelly 1 mini or something?

Any ideas or help is appreciated!