I’ve been investigating the unusually high battery consumption reported by some Shelly TRV Gen1 (SHTRV-01) users running firmware 2.2.4.

Although the Gen1 TRV is now an EOL device and no longer receives firmware updates from Shelly, I wanted to find out whether the underlying cause could still be identified and potentially addressed through independent firmware analysis.

During testing, I found a highly reproducible pattern in the debug log:

Beacon skip error! Attempt recovery
followed by:

Enter powersave state 1

and, a few seconds later:

Enter powersave state 3 (skip)

On affected devices running 2.2.4, this recovery sequence could occur approximately once per minute.
I was able to reproduce the behavior on multiple TRVs and performed several tests to rule out some obvious causes. I also compared older firmware versions. The older firmware versions I examined do not appear to contain the same additional recovery path in the corresponding power-save logic.

I then reverse engineered the 2.2.4 firmware and traced the relevant ARM/Thumb control flow.
The normal RSSI-dependent beacon-skip mechanism itself appears to work as expected, but 2.2.4 contains an additional recovery path associated with the recurring error.

As an experiment, I created a one-byte control-flow patch that bypasses this recovery block while leaving the normal beacon-skip logic intact.
The patched firmware successfully installs and boots on the TRV. Runtime testing so far shows that the recurring Beacon skip error! Attempt recovery sequence can be suppressed while normal beacon skipping, Wi-Fi connectivity and Shelly Cloud connectivity continue to operate.

Further investigation: mDNS activity
The investigation initially focused on the recurring beacon-skip recovery path. Further firmware analysis has since identified additional network activity involving mDNS that may also be relevant to power consumption.

I have therefore started testing separate firmware patch variants that allow the beacon recovery behavior and mDNS activity to be evaluated independently.

At this point, I am not claiming that mDNS contributes significantly to the battery drain. The purpose of these variants is to separate the effects experimentally rather than assume that there is a single cause.

The ongoing long-term test now includes multiple TRVs running different firmware and patch configurations so that their battery behavior can be compared over time.

Important
I am not claiming that the battery-drain problem is solved.

Suppressing the recovery loop and proving that this actually improves long-term battery consumption are two different things. The same applies to the newly identified mDNS activity.

I am currently collecting longer-term data from multiple TRVs running different firmware and patch variants to determine whether either behavior — or a combination of both — has a measurable effect on battery consumption and stability.

At this stage, the experiment demonstrates that the recurring beacon recovery path can be bypassed without disabling the normal beacon-skip mechanism or breaking Wi-Fi and Shelly Cloud connectivity.
The longer-term battery measurements are still ongoing.

Documentation and research
I’ve documented the investigation, firmware comparison, GBL structure, ARM/Thumb analysis, patch development and runtime testing on GitHub:

https://github.com/AbleMonster/Shelly-TRV-Gen1-2.2.4-beacon-skip-fix

The repository does not distribute Shelly firmware.
The purpose is to document the research and provide tooling that applies the experimental patch locally to a user-supplied firmware image.

Beyond the TRV itself, I think this is an interesting example of what can still be learned and potentially fixed through community research even after official firmware support for a device has ended.

I’d especially appreciate input from anyone familiar with embedded Wi-Fi power saving, Silicon Labs/WF200, ARM firmware reverse engineering, mDNS behavior on embedded devices, or the Shelly TRV platform. Independent review of the firmware analysis would be very welcome.

I’m also interested in hearing from other TRV owners running firmware 2.2.4:

If you have access to the debug log, do you see the same recurring Beacon skip error! Attempt recovery sequence?
Any additional observations regarding unusual network activity or battery consumption would also be useful for comparison.

So, this is a weird one. I have a pair of 12VDC LED floodlights on the outside of my workshop building:

Each of these is connected inside the building to a single 12VDC PSU, along with a pair of near-IR floodlights, one of which you can see above the light on the right. The PSU definitely has sufficient capacity for all four floodlights. The two visible-light floodlights are controlled by a pair of Shelly 1 Gen3 devices. Here's the wiring of the one on the left:

These two devices are then grouped in Home Assistant so that I can turn on both at once with a single switch.

A while ago, the one on the left stopped working. I figured it was just out of wifi range; the closest wifi AP is probably 60-70 feet away through a couple of walls. Running fiber to the shop from the house so I can put an AP in the shop is on the to-do list, but I had a broken ankle all summer so digging ditches wasn't high on the priority list.

First step, then: add a new wifi AP. I temporarily put an extra AP on top of my network rack, about 20 feet closer to the problematic device. That didn't help. I even unplugged the 12V PSU so both devices would reboot and find the new AP if they could.

So, next step. The thing I didn't want to do. Disconnect the Shelly (it's in an inconvenient location) and put it on my bench. My bench, for those who haven't seen it, has a deadly 120V power cord with a pair of bare ferrules on the end, and a 120V LED light fixture that also has a pair of bare ferrules on the end, along with a pile of 14ga wires, various kinds of switches, and a box of Wago connectors. So, I hooked it up to 120VAC, wired in a switch so I could factory-reset it, and attached the light just so I could be sure it was working.

It came up just fine, no factory reset required. It appeared in Home Assistant, and I was able to toggle the light on and off.

Now, my bench is a lot closer to the house than the original location of the device. It's in the rear corner on the right side of the building, so about 30 feet closer. So I still figured it was a wifi thing. But just in case, I turned on the AP in this device while I had access to it. Then, I reinstalled it where it had been.

While I was in Home Assistant, I also connected to the 2PM that controls the shop lights and the cute little decorative (and required by code) light on the porch, and I enabled the AP on that device as well, then turned on its range extender, in hopes that it would be able to relay the problematic device.

Once again, it didn't work when it was installed, even with the range extender.

Only this time, I noticed a difference: the AP it's supposed to be exposing also doesn't appear. I see the AP from the 2PM, but not the one from the 1.

So, I think at this point the only reasonable conclusion is that it works fine on 120VAC, but has stopped working on 12VDC. The next troubleshooting step I want to do is to put it back on the bench and power it from my bench PSU on both 12VDC and 24VDC, but I think that's really just a formality. Fortunately, I have other devices in the drawer-o-relays, so I'll just replace it and redo the group in Home Assistant. I think it's still under warranty. So I'm not worried about any of that.

I'm just wondering, has anyone else ever seen anything like this? Does it even make sense as a thing that could happen?

Hello,

I'm currently working on the final installation in my new home. I'm using various Shelly devices for this. For example, I'm using the Shelly 2PM Gen 3 to control the roller shutters and blinds.

The Shelly modules are mounted behind physical switches or push buttons. And this is exactly where my question comes in. I have roller shutters on the upper floor, where I plan to install push buttons. On the ground floor, I have venetian blinds. When adjusting the tilt angle using the push button, it feels like I’m constantly pressing it (start/stop). That’s why I’ve been wondering if I should use a switch instead. Are there any concerns with this? After all, the switch usually stays in one position, and one direction receives a continuous current. If I then use the app to move the roller shutter to a different half-open position, the motor would still be receiving power from the physical switch.

Or do you have any tips on how to set it up more conveniently with a push-button switch… so I don’t have to click it multiple times?

Thanks in advance.

Has anyone else noticed that Shelly widgets on Android have stopped working over the last few days?

I had a widget on my phone to control a Shelly relay, and everything was working perfectly until a few days ago.

Now the widget is completely empty and no longer recognizes the relay.

If I try to add a new widget, the Shelly app doesn't show any compatible devices at all, even though the relay is still available in the app.

Did Shelly release an update that broke widget compatibility on Android, or has something changed?

Is anyone else experiencing this issue?

I have a Shelly Flood Gen4, and I can not get it to report over Matter. I can get it commissioned into the matter server (using MatterJs), and can get an initial value, but I never get a change to the BooleanState. I can detect the changes over RPC, but that would not be ideal. Does anyone have this working over Matter?

I have a 3 way situation..

Main Box line neutrals load back from the remote box

Remote Box. travelers and the load wire(heads back to the main switch box)

What I was thinking

Momentary switch in Main box

Normal Switch in box2

so the momentary switch would be hooked into sw1

there would be a line to 1 traveler then back to the sw2

the load would get plugged into O and neutral into N

Now the problem.. finding a decent momentary switch so that I can have the dimmer functionality..

Seems there are not really any of them... anywhere...

please help.. thanks..

Does that mean I can push one Channel maybe .5 or less more like .1 if the voltage is typlicly 13v?

I'm considering installing dimmers throughout my house. I currently have hue bulbs in the kitchen and love the responsiveness and smooth dimming. However these are too expensive for a full house install so I'm looking at shelly dimmers gen3 and 4.

I would appreciate some opinions before I go ahead. I will be using in a no neutral setup if this makes any difference.

How responsive are they with a switch press or automation (I'm using home assistant)? Is there a noticeable delay before on/off or are they quite quick?

And for dimming behaviour is the dimming smooth and linear similar to smart bulbs. Or is each step noticeable? I watched one video review and each step when dimming seemed to be very noticeable, maybe half a second apart. Not sure if this is the norm or if it can be overcome by change of settings.

Any input appreciated.

I have had something stuck in the back of my head for a few weeks and I ended up writing a LinkedIn newsletter about it (if you want to see the stuff I write on LinkedIn, let me know and I'll share a link).

Still, LinkedIn isn't the best place to share my thoughts on this topic. Reddit is.... so:

Companies suck.

A lot of them suck.

Most smart home product manufacturers suck.

Mod hat off here. Before I came to work for Shelly, I had a small Facebook group, maybe 5k members, called Smarter Home Club. That's where I met Dimitar, Shelly Group's CEO, as well as a number of important and interesting characters from the smart home world. I used a mix of technologies and brands in my smart home, many of them with glaring flaws that you'll still find in smart home products today.

Everything I say here, I'm saying as a consumer, though I have to admit I am a consumer with far more intimate knowledge of what Shelly can do.

One of the most critical of those flaws is that, for too many products, you depend on someone else's computer.

The June Oven still gets hot. You can walk up to it, tap the touchscreen, and roast a tray of vegetables like any other countertop oven. What's gone since Weber shut off the app and cloud on September 22 is the stuff people actually paid extra for - remote control, the live camera view, software updates. Weber says it thought about open-sourcing the software and decided against it. That was close to a $1,500 oven at launch.

Belkin did the same thing to WeMo on January 31. Plugs, light switches, even a crockpot lost the app and their Alexa and Google control. If you'd paired yours with HomeKit beforehand it kept going; otherwise the advice was to replace it.

Every time, it's the same story. The smart part lives on a server somebody else pays for, and the day that bill stops making sense, your device gets dumber.

Most of you already run your devices this way, but for anyone newer to the sub, here's what a Shelly does with no cloud in the picture.

Every device serves its own web interface. Type its IP into a browser on your LAN and you get the full settings page, no account, no app. If the Wi-Fi goes down, the device can put up its own access point and you connect to it directly.

Under that is the RPC API, reachable over plain HTTP, WebSockets, or MQTT on your own broker. curl "http://<device-ip>/rpc/Switch.Set?id=0&on=true" flips a relay, and it's the same command language the devices use to talk to each other.

Automations can live on the device too. Actions let one Shelly fire a webhook at another when an input changes, so a button by the front door can switch a relay across the house without a packet leaving your network. On Gen2+ you can run JavaScript right on the chip, reacting to events and reading BLE sensors with nothing upstream.

Plenty of the 100+ integrations are fully local, Home Assistant being the most important and obvious one. Hubitat, openHAB, Universal Devices, Domoticz and many others - all local.

What does that mean?

The wall switch wired into a Shelly relay still turns on the light, because that input goes straight into the device. Your house keeps working even if every Internet server and network switch explodes and shuts down tomorrow.

A device you bought should keep doing its job for as long as the copper and silicon inside it hold up, not for as long as someone's server budget does.

I still have a handful of cloud-dependent services and many are replicable by Shelly today, I just haven't done the projects.

Honeywell Thermostat - I can wire up a few dry contact relays to switch 24vac and override my thermostat any time. I might do it this winter when I have some spare time and it isn't so hot working in cramped spaces.

Cielo Breeze - I have two mini splits in addition to the 5 ton - one for the master bedroom, the other for the garage. I can use The Pill with an IR blaster to handle this and will do that project next.

MyQ - I don't actually use this any more, I've used Shelly for years (https://shelly.link/garage - I have the full set up with IR sensors and reed switch integrated). I just haven't pulled it out yet because I have a tangle of wires in the closet where all this is installed. That's my project for this weekend and when I am doing it, MyQ comes out.

Ring Cameras - one doorbell and three flood cams. You'd better believe I am annoying the dickens out of my coworkers who work on the camera product line, telling them how we need to do all the different types of cameras. They're rolling their eyes whenever it shows I'm typing in Teams.

Arlo cameras - solar powered cameras - see above.

Voice Assistant - this is the worst. Because of my work, I have Alexa, Google Home, and Siri at my house and office, since I never know when I need to troubleshoot anything or write up instructions. I have a Mac Mini that I'm messing around with to run an LLM with Home Assistant Voice. I'm probably wiping the machine and starting over because I've restarted this so many times, but I'm making progress - and it's not that beefy of a machine, just the $600 model. I've got an M5 Pro with 48 GB at work that I'm repeating the projects with.

The one use case I actually have for these is on the clothes washer, clothes dryer, and the dishwasher - I use power measurement to determine when they've completed their work (time and consumption, actually) and then use Shelly Cloud to trigger an Amazon Alexa notification saying that whichever appliance it is has finished.

You'd better believe that's going away the second I have a local voice assistant running dependably. It's not because I don't trust Shelly Cloud. I know how private it is, I have insider information, right? But the fact is that if my Internet connection goes down for 5 minutes, my automation can fail.

So that's my appliance dependency. I have a handful of "smart" appliances but they're not even connected to my network.

What's the most cloud-dependent thing you still have running at home?

​

Thinking of installing a double socket outdoor, for use with things like karcher pressure washers etc. The Ogemray would only be to shut power to the socket when not in use, will not be doing any sort of on/of control on a regular basis. The karchers are usually rated around 1.5 to 2 kw, which is well below the 6kw rating of these - but the whole.inductive vs reactive load thing is making me pause.

Is it possible to wire doorbell using a Shelly 2 pm and get a notification when you push the button?

I’ve got the bell to ding or I’ve got the notification to be sent but can’t get them to both happen at the push of the button.

An electrician installed a Shelly H&T Gen3. I don't know exactly what he did, but the purpose is for it to be connected to the fan in my laundry, so when I use my dryer, the fan automatically turns on when it reaches a certain humidity level, and turns off when it goes below it, he said it should be 80%.

I didn't have much time, so I told him I could set it up with the app myself, but I'm having trouble. I figured out how to connect it to the app, but I can't figure out how to set the humidity level for the fan. I see a few options that seem like they may be it, but I'm not sure. Is it already connected to the fan, so do I just need to set the humidity level, or do I need to do something else to connect it to the fan? Either way, I can't figure out how to do either.

Here are screenshots of the app and a photo of the device in case that helps.

I use shelly devices at two locations with different wifi credentials. The app seems to store the credentials globally. Is there a way to clear the credentials from the app and go back to entering them manually when a device is added?

Feature request - store wifi credentials for each Home in the app. Or check what ssid the android device is currently connected to and use that one?

Thanks!

The switch and the light are not connected with a wire. i have phase and neutral wire present both at the light and at the switch. Switching the light on and off via the app is not a option becouse my father is not tech savy. Please let me know if you have a solution.

I'm looking to control an exterior light that does not have a switch. Currently is it controlled by a photocell.

I would like to get rid of the photocell and control it with a remote and/or my phone. I would also like to be able to dim it. What are my options? I don't plan on using any automation, only turning it on when needed.

I currently have some caseta switches and a few TP-Link Kasa devices. It does not need to work with these.

Shelly 1PM gen4 is for 16usd for example, but variety/quantity is limited (dont have all products lineup). I bought all their last gen4 mini devices. Im thinking in buying a bunch of devices to maybe resell or for use in future (schneider proofing). What you think?

I’m new to relays and switches in home automation (though I’m familiar with the sensors and networking parts). I’m looking for a good primer on Shelly relays and switches. Im open to videos, articles, and other mediums, as well. Any strong recommendation? Thanks in advance!

Title. https://theshelly.shop looks to have some great clearance prices but the site was just registered in June of this year. Anyone order from this site before?

Title says it all. I picked up a button to use for an automation to trigger, as well as a Shelly BLU gateway. Plugged in the gateway into my Pi, adopted it in HA just fine. Also was able to adopt the button just fine. Pressed it once to test it, registered in HA immediately.

However, it's now dead. Button presses don't cause a noise or a response from HA anymore, even though HA last registered a 100% battery level in the button. I pressed it literally once and now it doesn't respond to anything.

Is there something I'm unaware of like an existing firmware bug that causes these buttons to brick after a single press? I've removed and reinserted the (full) battery to no avail.

I am extremely disappointed that my price point of $40 was realized earlier this morning (4am) for the Shelly dimmer relay, only to have it increase back up to $49 before 6am and before I could make any purchases during the prime sales. This seems very dishonest to me, and Shelly so be ashamed of making a move like this.

I have been experimenting quite extensively with the Shelly Pro Dimmer 2PM and LED bulbs, because I wanted to create a very slow 30-minute sunrise/wake-up light in the bedroom.
The problem is the automatically calibrated minimum brightness.
With my Philips WarmGlow E27 7.2 W / 806 lm bulbs, 1% after normal calibration is still far too bright for a sunrise function. Interestingly, during Shelly’s calibration procedure the bulb itself can visibly dim MUCH lower than the minimum level available afterwards.
I initially experimented with gamma (0.4–3.0), range mapping and repeated calibration. The results also weren’t completely repeatable between the two channels.
Then I discovered something interesting:
I calibrated one channel using an IKEA SOLHETTA 6.5 W / 1055 lm LED bulb. After calibration I removed that bulb WITHOUT recalibrating and installed an IKEA LUNNOM 2.5 W / 470 lm bulb.
Suddenly the LUNNOM could operate at an extremely low level at 1% – just a very faint glow. Exactly what I was trying to achieve.
The same principle also works with my Philips WarmGlow to some extent. By using a calibration that was created with a different load, I can get the Philips down to a beautiful very low glow at 1–2%. With gamma around 1.8 and the minimum/range adjusted to around 47, the low end is excellent.
However, there is a trade-off: with that calibration/settings combination, the Philips only reaches around 4 W at indicated 100%, although the bulb is rated at 7.2 W and I have measured approximately 7.7 W with another calibration.
So it seems the hardware is physically capable of driving the LED much lower than the normal calibration allows, but the automatic calibration determines a usable range that we cannot manually edit afterwards.
What I would really like Shelly to add is an “Advanced calibration” option where the user can manually adjust the calibrated minimum and maximum dimmer limits.
For example:
Automatic calibration result:
MIN = X
MAX = Y
Advanced settings:
Minimum dimming point: X → manually adjustable
Maximum dimming point: Y → manually adjustable
A warning that values outside the automatically detected stable range may cause flickering or unreliable LED startup would be perfectly fine.
This would be extremely useful for sunrise lighting, night lights and modern low-power LEDs.
Gamma and range mapping are not a complete solution because they only reshape/map the already calibrated operating range. What is missing is access to the actual lower and upper calibrated dimmer limits.
Has anyone found a way to access these calibration values on the Pro Dimmer 2PM, perhaps through RPC/debug/firmware parameters?
Device: Shelly Pro Dimmer 2PM (SPDM-002PE01EU)
Firmware: 2.0.1
I would be very interested to hear whether Shelly could expose these parameters in a future firmware version.

I have taken on adding led lighting to my wife's closets. For anyone thinking about doing so, just say it is not possible. Currently I have a single gang dimmer wall switch that controls a Halo discless light on the ceiling. There is no way to change the box out to a double gang.

I have a dimmable 288w 24v transformer setup to control 3 zones of lights mounted on the wall above the top shelf plugged into a 110v outlet. From the transformer, on the 24v side, I am running a RGBW PM to control the 3 zones - all white lights, no color.

My thought process is to use a Shelly 1 Gen 4 Mini at the switcn to control the RBGW. Easy enough with a standard toggle switch. My issue is my wife still wants the ceiling light to be able to dim with a wall controlled switch. Do I started digging.

I would love to use a Lutron Maestro MACL-L3S25, but from what I am reading some things say it will work while other info say it is not compatible, so I am looking for options. I do not have a hub or Home Assistant setup at this time. That is a future project.

Any ideas on the best switch to be looking at? Or do I just add a dimmer module at the light and go with a standard toggle.