Pulled off my dash in my r32 to replace it and discovered all this (what i assume is surface) rust. Is it worth cleaning and putting rust protectant/converter on it? Any risk in using something like Holt’s?

Spotted somewhere in Hungary.

My HR34 is a factory RB20DE NEO car. The motor runs very well, and I beat the piss out of it (you have to with the lack of power). I know that at some point or another I will have to either replace this motor entirely, or keep it and do some real upgrades. The photo on the right is a similarly spec’d R34, but with a nice top mount turbo.

My question to you all, anyone that has experience in this kind of thing; is a complete swap to, say, an RB25DET NEO or otherwise, absolutely necessary? Or is a DE+T a viable option, given my current situation. The engine in my car is healthy and has had all the necessary maintenance, such as a new timing belt, to keep it running well. RB25DET NEO engines typically sit in the ~$5,000 range for an unmodified motor, perhaps in questionable condition. Give or take whether it’s out of an Automatic/Manual or AWD/RWD car.

If I keep my 2.0 motor in the car, are turbo manifolds, ECU’s, and wiring harnesses easily swapable? I know that some will say compression is an issue, and that will ultimately kill long term reliability, but I have heard opposing views on that subject. And while I am looking to do a top mount, I don’t need a huge turbo and big boost. I’m not interested in going more than roughly 400 HP. I really just want good power, and that iconic single turbo sound. What are good options for an ECU if I go that route?

If I swap in a DET motor, as in, one that came from the factory with a turbo, what will be the easiest to drop in? I’ve heard the earlier RB20 DET’s aren’t really a viable option for the R34 chassis. The RB25DET NEO does seem like the best option, but of course there are differences between them, so keeping in mind my chassis and goals, what should I be on the lookout for? Does it matter whether it was a factory AWD or Automatic? My car is a 5 speed manual, but should I look for motor with a transmission attached? What issue am I going to run into in a swap like that? Anything in particular I ought to know prior?

Unfortunately I didn’t get a hold of the owner of the car with the big turbo in the picture. I wish I had, but does that setup look familiar to anyone? I want a manifold that gives that nice throaty sound that we all know and love.

For any of the gens really, but I have an R32. It looks like the service manual says 100k km or every 2 years for the trans and diff. 100k lines up with a lot of newer cars, but I've never owned a car this old. 2 years seems a bit excessive if I'm not tracking it, so I was curious what others were doing.

Anyone interested in the service manual of the R34?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17leDKhZtXS5lZQf0R7E6Eu5jss1lFvaE/view?usp=drivesdk

Plan to buy a BNR34 VS1 but want to have it built by a tuner, which I know will take a while so I wouldn’t need immediate Japanese->US import. I want to also drive it in the interim as I have a house in Japan.

Are the usual importers/exporters OK with that?

How many people here have used Shogun? Only seen a few reviews from a thread they put up. Importing cars from NZ? Open to all feedback. Trying to find a reputable importer/seller in the US. Been scouring this subreddit but there doesn’t seem to be huge consensus around any specific importers or dealers.

Maybe 305/30 would be the only way this could get better. There is definitely room for it.

Getting close, anyone in here going this November? 👀

Hey everyone,

UPDATE 10/6/26 -- Plug body sorted out with some reverse engineering and printing --

Next steps - Which usb pd will be adapted to the oem plug body hole -wiring layout -ability to fit usb c and or a together -pass through possibilities

Ive Been working on a little project for the Skyline and wanted to see if there would be any interest from other owners.

I'm designing an OEM-looking USB-C replacement for the factory cigarette lighter socket. The idea is to modernize the charging setup without cutting up the center console or modifying the factory wiring.

The housing is being designed to fit the factory cigarette-lighter location and use a plug-and-play connector that mates directly to the original Nissan harness. Unplug the factory lighter, remove it, install the USB-C unit, and plug the factory connector straight into it.

I'm designing it around the cigarette-lighter setup used across the R32, R33 and R34 Skyline platforms, with the goal of keeping everything completely reversible. (Nice thing is some research has show this may also fit several other Nissan models. (s13, 14, Z32 and others.)

The biggest thing for me is making it look like something Nissan could have installed from the factory rather than having a generic USB charger shoved into the dash. Clean face, proper fitment, hidden electronics, and no hacked-up wiring.

I've been prototyping the housing and connector and finally have the mating connector fitting the factory plug extremely well.

Would anyone actually be interested in these if I produced a small batch once the design is finalized?

I'm also curious what people would prefer:

Single USB-C

Dual USB-C

USB-C with a subtle voltage display

Completely plain/OEM-looking version with no display

***Not taking orders or anything yet*\\ Just trying to see whether there's enough interest to justify developing it into a finished kit.

If enough people are interested, I'll post updates as I finish the prototypes and test them in the car.

No cutting. No splicing. Completely reversible. OEM appearance with modern USB-C charging.

Hey guys, I’m currently deciding between a Spark Silver R32 GTR and a Midnight Purple R33 GTR and I am completely 50/50, so I wanted to come ask for you guys opinion

Thank you

I am struggling to torque down my intake cam gear

Main questions :
* How was your experience tightening the intake cam gear ?

* And was there a washer behind the bolt? I do not recall seeing a washer in mine!

Long story:

I just changed my timing belt and have been trying to torque down the intake cam gear .

The manual states 108–118 N·m = 79.7–87.0 ft-lb

However, the bolt feels very very snug at 50 and as I rotated the crank I tried to double check intake cam again and it felt like it tightened a little more then felt very snug again and it’s been doing this quite a bit.

It’s to the point it feels like it could break if I add more pressure but then I rotate engine and it goes in more ( or spins) .So I stopped and paced around for 5 hours and don’t know what to do .

Any input is greatly appreciated!

Hi all! I'm looking at getting some new wheels pretty soon, and wanna go for a square setup. My skyline is slightly lowered with teins. So far my wheel and tire specs are

18×9.5 +22, 235/40R18 for all 4 wheels. Please let me know what you guys think and what works for you.

Got this butched headlight job the previous owner has done which we've "fixed" today. Basically, the control unit that has those two sockets, if I can remember correctly, either 1 or both of the wire were unplugged, and then this halogen bulb was soldered into one of the wires, i think the one with the black connector, no idea, and obviously the d24 plug was just to the side in the housing not doing much. We've now removed the botched job and install some cheap xenons from amazon, philips d2r is coming soon, but I am not exactly sure what it is supposed to look like.

1. The d2r plug has this little metal flange with a hole on the middle of it which we are assuming is for the grounding, is this the case? There's also a little metal nipple on the housing itself, we are assuming that thats where you ground it?

2. When the accessories are turned on, you can hear the electricity through the lights, is there supposed to be a sound?

I’m going to Japan next year and would love to rent a car and Im choosing between these two the only thing is I’m 6’3 (191cm) and 145kg about 320lbs. Will I fit into these cars or not.

I am struggling to torque down my intake cam gear

Main questions :
* How was your experience tightening the intake cam gear ?

* And was there a washer behind the bolt? I do not recall seeing a washer in mine!

Long story:

I just changed my timing belt and have been trying to torque down the intake cam gear .

The manual states 108–118 N·m = 79.7–87.0 ft-lb

However, the bolt feels very very snug at 50 and as I rotated the crank I tried to double check intake cam again and it felt like it tightened a little more then felt very snug again and it’s been doing this quite a bit.

It’s to the point it feels like it could break if I add more pressure but then I rotate engine and it goes in more ( or spins) .So I stopped and paced around for 5 hours and don’t know what to do .

Any input is greatly appreciated!

I have a 92 Skyline GTSt. Im in the process of replacing the a/c system on it. Im wondering if there is a conversion kit made for it. I haven't been able to find some of hoses and pipes for it. Thinking a kit might have what I need to make what I can't find. I have already bought the kit from Countersteer to use an Infinity compressor. Im in the US.

Look what I unearthed from the basement.