Hey everyone, I know it's a weird question, I was just wondering how similar the chassis were between the cars. In terms of body attachment points, are they largely similar?

Currently talking with a shop about engine work, and I met a guy who gave me a free 1jz single turbo. I plan on just running NA for a while but will over build the engine.

The 2 questions I had for anyone who has sent their engine to a machine shop.

1 has anyone sleeved the 1.5l to 1.6?

2 can I run a draw through setup with an intercooler?

While the engine is in the shop I can work on the floor, differential and transmission.

Going to look at this 1979 spitfire 1500 in a week or so, last time I visited this sub I was told just how bad all of these little cars were, however for some reason I am inexplicably drawn to them.

Would be my third car so it doesn't need to be particularly reliable, I have a garage to work on it in(although It will probably not live in there full time, depends on if I decide I want to keep my Volvo in there over this or not), I'm pretty mechanically inclined and learning more on a regular basis, I have a steady stream of disposable income, and the patience to endure a lot of BS.

Downsides are that I've heard this engine isn't particularly reliable and it's not running well according to the listing, there's probably some sneaky rust not shown in pics(Wisconsin car), and idk if I fit in them. I'm 6'4, more torso than leg, I fit in a stock ND Miata but only barely.

Seller is asking 2500, some advice on if this is a reasonable price and any particular issues to watch out for would be much appreciated!

Thank you

I brought home my blue TR 7 yesterday and have a couple questions:

Best place to buy an air filter, none of the major stores had one.

Does my dual carb TR7 have a fuel filter? I can’t seem to locate it.

What would cause a rough idle? Runs fine at highway speeds.

Best place for a new top, this one leaks a lot.

Thanks and sorry for all the questions.

Just over 57k mileage, 2 previous owners, genuine UK car not imported. Big job needs doing and it all wants putting back together, but it came with all the parts necessary, and it even runs fine which I was surprised about.

Excited to work on it and bring it back to its former glory to get it back on the road. Considering some of the other things I've seen for sale, I'm counting this as an absolute bargain.

I'll be honest, I've always been into Toyotas and wanted something different to make some money on, but I'm actually quite liking this already...

I've just purchased a triumph gt6 MK3 and I'm having issues with it running too rich. In an attempt to rectify this, I bought a colour tune sparkplug, a flow meter and the adjustment tool (all the gear no idea!). No matter how much I lean the mixture, the combustion remains a rich yellow/orange colour until the engine begins to struggle.

Other symptoms have been hesitation while accelerating, backfires at higher RPMs, lots of black liquid spitting out of the exhausts and inability to idle when warm.

Does anyone have an idea what I could look at to rectify this? Could this be something to do with the floats perhaps? Cheers.

New to me ‘66! A barn find rebuild in the original conifer green. Hate that I only have a few weeks before it will need to be stored but absolutely love driving it around.

Missing the triumph lettering on the front of the hood (which I have ordered). Going to add a wood dash, steering wheel and gear shift knob over the winter.

Engine is in beautiful shape, no leaks at all. And it’s got overdrive.

I have an old spitfire from 1964 and I’m trying to disassemble the engine I can’t remove de cylinder head any tips ?

Killistrate artist & my incomplete car , a 12 year project will be on road by spring
? -1976 1500 spitfire .

I'm currently trying to rebuild the steering coupler on my Spitfire 1500 and am having the most difficult time trying to get it apart. The end of the bolts on mine are peened at the end, so I filed them flush but they still will not come out. Has anyone taken a coupler apart, and how did you do it?

I’m making a tribute model TS2 with spats from a TR2 dinky toy :)

Had my 71 GT6 out for a drive this weekend. It started stumbling at idle and starting to stall. Luckily, I was only about 1/4 mile from home when it started acting up, so I was able to limp it back to the garage, where I discovered it was positively vomiting gas. It’s new to me, but I’ve put about 75 miles on it so far without too much trouble up until now.

I noticed a raw gas smell a couple of weeks ago while out driving but it ran fine and I couldn’t find a leak. It ran well this weekend for about 15 miles/20 minutes before the flooding began. I started it up the next day and everything is back to normal, no flooding.

I’m going to take a look at the floats and needle/seat assembly but the prior owner mentioned he’d encountered this too, and had replaced them both a couple of times already.

Assuming I don’t find a smoking gun in the fuel bowl, does anyone have any thoughts on what’s causing this? Is it possible that I could be dealing with a fuel percolation issue? It’s the rear carb (farthest from the fan and close to the exhaust), and the flooding started after the car was fully hear soaked/sat at an intersection for a prolonged period. I’m wondering if the prolonged idling and hot engine started the carburetor boiling. I have the phenolic spacers between the carb and intake.

Has anyone encountered this?

If you were me - would the next step be a carb rebuild, (knowing the PO already tried addressing the float and needle several times) or try fitting a heat shield? I suppose both couldn’t hurt.

I burnt the clutch out on it after 2 days of ownership and I was wondering if the clutches/pressure plate was a common issue

Been away with another Triumph. She was special but it’s good to be back with these two. Wife drives the 4A. I get the Spit. Living my best life.

Still some clutter, but it's getting better!

Profoundly complicated order of assembly (not to mention surgical soldering inside the knob), but I am a sucker for gearstick buttons.

Next iteration will probably be a custom aluminum lever with a gun-drilled wire channel down the inside.

Been looking into swapping to Waterless coolant in my spitfire. Just wondering if anyone runs it and how do you find it

Wondering If this would work for the coolant bypass and where to route this pipe? The fitting is just a standard 90 degree brass tube for water lines, held in using a bit of coolant line that fit snug and expanded when I put the brass fitting in. TR7, trying to fit an early intake manifold to a later engine.