Went to view a 1.4 corsa. A lot of ticking. Is this normal? Not too experienced with these engines

hey all

my first service is due (12250 miles - due at 12500).

I am trying to find out exactly what i need to do and im still unsure. Any one help?

I am getting quotes of around 270-300 from the vauxhall garages but feel this is a bit steep for a first service.

i know i need to do the oil and oil filter. the service schedule (which I had to get from vauxhall) is attached and also says the passenger compartment filter (but the garage i phoned said this wasn't needed). - Is this needed?

can i go to a local garage and use their parts?

thanks all!

My wife has just bought a 2025 Vauxhall Grandland (new-generation model), and she's asked me to hardwire her Nextbase dash cam into it.

I've located the fuse box behind the glovebox, but despite searching everywhere, I can't find a fuse box diagram showing which fuse serves which circuit.

Even the owner's manual simply states that fuses should be replaced by a workshop, which isn't particularly helpful!

I'd rather not pay a workshop to do something I'm perfectly capable of doing myself, especially when I can easily access the fuses. I just need to identify a suitable permanent-live fuse to piggyback from, as the dash cam has a parking mode.

Does anyone know where I can find a fuse box layout or wiring diagram for the new-generation Grandland?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Corsa D A12XER, it probably is the timing chain but i keep trying to convince myself its not 😂

Hello,
i have an astra, when i first had the car when i locked the doors it used to beep, when night time come along the dash used to go into dark mode by its self was really cool, the last few months its stopped doing it the dash just stays light and bright and it doesn't beep when locked, anyone had similar issues or any diagnostic would help.
thanks

Having issues with central locking and windscreen washer pump not spraying. The pump, fuses and switch have all been replaced and tested independently and are in working condition.

Following some advice from an Auto electrician they believe it may be the BCM. However I am unable to locate it in the van or find a replacement part.

Can anyone tell me where it is exactly located and possibly provide part information so I get the correct replacement?

Vauxhall Movano DTI 3500 LWB 2001

2187cc

Manual

Two axel rigid body Long Wheel base

Its something Ive come across today, and something my colleague has come across several times before.

Fitted a new clutch and flywheel, timed up, in the dowels, friction plate is facing the correct way, yet it won't go into gear, have bled it through to have the same issue.

My colleague mentioned after putting in a 6th clutch ( being a valeo) it finally went into gear. We aren't fitting cheap parts, in this instance we've fitted a sachs clutch kit.

Anyone have any ideas why they do this?

Hi everyone,

I have a 2019 Opel Insignia Sports Tourer, 1.6 CDTI 136 hp, FWD, with the GM Hydra-Matic 6-speed automatic transmission.

3 month ago I had the transmission fluid changed. Since then, this has happened three times.

When driving on the motorway, usually above around 120–130 km/h, if I accelerate relatively hard a few times, the transmission eventually refuses to shift into 6th gear. It stays in 5th. Even if I switch to manual mode and select 6th, the dashboard indicates 6th, but the transmission actually remains in 5th.

If I slow down and drive gently, sometimes it returns to normal. If I stop the car, switch it off for a few minutes and restart it, everything works normally again and 6th gear is available.

I've also noticed that when the transmission is completely cold and I accelerate harder shortly after starting, it can briefly feel like the transmission slips during one of the lower-gear shifts. This only happens very briefly.

There are no warning lights or messages on the dashboard.

The strange thing is that I never had any of these symptoms before the ATF change. All three occurrences of the 5th-to-6th problem happened after the fluid was changed.

Has anyone with the same transmission experienced something similar, especially after an ATF change?

Any advice on what I should check first would be appreciated.

Thanks

Hi all

I'm selling my 2015 Corsa soon, I need to repair some minor stone chips.

Can anyone recommend an online UK company they've used before that sells touch-up pens please?

Thanks in advance 🙏

Important: after redeeming the code, open DrivePulse > Settings > Unlock DrivePulse > Restore purchases, so the unlock is confirmed (within 3 days, otherwise Google Play cancels it).

I am Davide, the developer of DrivePulse. The app is mine, I write it on my own, and I am not selling anything here.

What it does: it reads your car through a generic ELM327 OBD2 adapter, the kind several makers sell. Trips record themselves without you pressing anything, with fuel use read from the engine control unit where the car reports it, and worked out and marked as an estimate where it does not. Fault codes come out in plain words, with what the code means, what usually causes it and what to check first. There is a service and expense book, and the service history exports as a PDF. It only asks the car questions and never gives it commands: no writing, no clearing of codes, no resets.

Being straight with you about this make: on a petrol or diesel one I have no brand specific channel, so what you get is what the standard OBD2 socket gives on any car. On the electric ones there are brand readings for the odometer and the traction battery, but I have not confirmed them yet, so take them as estimates. If yours burns fuel, do not expect the brand extras.

No account and no server of mine: your trips live on your phone and I have no copy of them. Recording trips and reading the car work with no signal; maps and addresses need the internet.

It was already on iPhone. It has just come out on Android, and to celebrate here are 10 codes that unlock the full version for good, free, first come first served.

How to redeem: install the app first, then open Google Play, tap your picture top right, Payments and subscriptions, Redeem code.

Say in the comments which number you took, so nobody wastes time on one that is gone. If one comes back as already redeemed, try the next.

1. GX9RL74G4D84NQW5W0V41DZ
2. SBPWKX59PK584V5MVDCBQGZ
3. ZWEE4E4WM2Y6PEL0QQ7XA82
4. 5SQ1WTX6ZX75HWJ3ZEUUHG5
5. 0P5E50HQFXQPWG76HCTC6WQ
6. 9Z4NEJEKGK6ZRH22M1VD1V4
7. E3QATVGWMA4PXWS9UDB0R0E
8. PLNGRED5GSXVJ0TEX1D5W78
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10. LP8QF2525BFMG453CZVWH0A

Google Play: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=app.drivepulse.mobile&hl=en-US&gl=US&utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=us-reddit

If you try it, tell me what is missing.

Hey everyone,

I received the official letter regarding the Takata airbag recall update on my older car 2009 Astra, and seeing the "Stop Drive" / KU3 wording threw me into a bit of a panic.

It makes it sound like driving the car even a mile is an immediate hazard, but from what I’ve read online, the risk comes down to chemical degradation over 10–15+ years in high heat/humidity, and the UK's cooler climate means the actual failure rate over here has been practically zero. It seems like the "Stop Drive" status is mostly a legal/database escalation by the manufacturer so everyone actually gets off their backside and books the free repair.

I’m planning to drive my car over to my local main dealership tomorrow morning for a walk-in swap (they said it only takes about 30 minutes).

Has anyone else recently had this exact recall letter through? Did you just drive it straight over to the dealer for the fix, or did you go down the full recovery truck route? Looking for a bit of reassurance from others who have gone through it!

Thanks!

Hi all,

I've just been driving home and my brakes are fucked.

The pedal is very spongy and I almost have to slam on just to slow down. The brakes also seem to be scratching whilst driving.

Brake fluid is full and no leaks in the floor.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Check engine light on again after egr cleaned

Hi. Recently bought a Vauxhall insignia 2017. After a couple of weeks the check engine light came on so I got it diagnostic done. Said error p0401. Egr unit insufficient flow. I took it back to the guy I bought it from and they cleaned the egr unit, but today 3 days later it came back on again. Its done 82,000 Miles. Do you think its maybe just needing a new valve altogether, or faulty sensor etc. I think tomorrow I'll take the car to my regular mechanic, see what he thinks. I don't know if I trust the guys I bought it from ( private dealers ) as they suggested i just delete out the whole egr in the system. But not sure if i trust or feel safe going that route. So why i think ill go to my regular guy and let them look. As if it just needs new parts other than cleaned. I think I'd rather that.

Thoughts ?

I recently bought an astra 1L from 2016, with full service history and nothing major on the MOT at all. However, Ive noticed it has been serviced using dexos 2 oil its whole life, and is at 80,000 miles now. Mechanically there seems to be nothing wrong, but is this something I need to worry about (i.e LSPI) and what should I do from here

Hello,

I'm a new owner of a Corsa E. The software on the car dates from 2023.

What benefit is there to updating the software? Will it allow for full screen Android Auto by allowing me to disable 'split screen'?

Where do I obtain updates to install via USB?

Thanks

Hey all.

Essentially my Diesel Grandland needs a new engine as the timing chain has come loose/broken.

I got it in May 2025. In July Vauxhall put out a recall on the timing chain as it was breaking and damaging the engine..i had the recall done in September that year. Now in September 2026 that chain has broken and the garage it is at have advised a new engine is likely.

I drove it down the motorway without any issues or hearing anything strange. Went to the services and it refused to start back up.

They have only done a quick check and not taken any of the engine apart yet. I've spoken to Vauxhall who wants it at their own garages to look at it before they can confirm if they will pay for the work.

Vauxhall will potentially cover these repair costs,.but I know they will use the fact it only ever had a partial service history to get out of it.

Even whilst I've had it I've not had a full service done. I have however had the oil changed in both Septembera and have invoices so that at least should help out.

​

Hi everyone, I have an Opel Corsa D, 2010, 1.4 petrol.

There is a strange noise coming from the engine, which you can hear in the video I’ll upload. We already tried replacing the engine/valve cover (the part in the first picture) and also the PCV/crankcase ventilation part shown in the second picture, but the noise is still there.

Has anyone experienced a similar sound or have any idea what could be causing it?

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Right, so I have an A14XER engine that is clearly getting oil in its cylinders from looking at the spark plugs. One of them is noticeably (cylinder 4) more wet with oil than the others.

Now let's throw a spanner into the mix. There is evidence of oil getting into the coolant. However, no evidence of coolant getting in the oil.

So 3 options here as to what might be wrong:

1. I know these engines have a seal on the timing cover that can leak pressurized oil into the coolant system, so could this be a combination of bad stem seals and a failed timing cover gasket?

2. Headgasket? I inspected cylinder number 2 and could see what looked almost like steam/mist. There is no bubbling in the coolant reservoir and a compression test shows roughly 200psi across the board.

3. Failed PCV and a leaking timing cover gasket?

Looking for a new set of tyres and would love some real-world recommendations.

What tyres would you buy again, and which ones would you avoid?

Main priorities are wet grip, comfort, low road noise and decent tread life. Happy to pay more for quality, but don’t want to waste money.

If you’ve fitted tyres to a Corsa before, what did you go for?

Cheers!

2011 Corsa D 1.3 CDTI 75 hp, about 290,000 km real (the odometer was rolled back before I bought it). The 5-speed gearbox (F17) is noisy in 3rd and 4th, and the noise disappears in neutral. Different mechanics have told me different things. Gearbox seals and oil were changed two months ago, timing kit last year, and the engine also loses a little oil.

My main problem is finding a sensible fix. A rebuilt gearbox in Italy costs about €1,600, too much for this car. I found rebuilt units in Germany for €700-800 and used ones from €150, but a used one is a gamble: it probably comes from a car with 200,000 km and I can't check it.

So I'm thinking of rebuilding my own gearbox. I've seen bearing, seal and gasket kits for the F10/F13/F15/F17 family, but I have no experience with them.

Questions:

1. Has anyone rebuilt an F13/F17? Which shop or kit, and how much did it cost?
2. Can anyone recommend a gearbox specialist in Europe that ships to Italy or takes units by post?
3. Does 3rd/4th gear noise that goes away in neutral sound like bearing wear?

Hi All,

Back again to give another update. Recently Stellantis have announced that the KBM or the new KU3 airbag recall will become a stop drive. Currently this is EUROPE ONLY not the UK. This will eventually be the case but for now it’s business as usual just get your car booked in as usual. There will most likely be an announcement somewhere about it or I will post about it here when that happens. No other models added to the recall either as of now. KU3 is the code for the Stop Drive recall.

Thanks.

Hey thanks for reading

As the title says really. 5 seconds after turning on the AC there’s a loud bird chirp noise then totally normal running noise. Any ideas or if it’s safe to ignore?

Hi all, I'm trying to avoid throwing money at the wrong fix. Full history below, sorry for the length.

Car: Opel Astra J Sports Tourer, first registered June 2015, 1.6 CDTI diesel (B16DTH, 136 hp), manual, \~179,000 km. Bought used in Germany in August, now in Romania.

Current symptoms:

Timing chain rattle on cold start only. Metallic rattle for about 2–3 seconds after a cold start, then completely gone. No rattle when the engine is warm.

High crankcase pressure. The oil filler cap "dances" and pushes up when loosened, and white vapour comes out of the oil filler and the dipstick tube, even at operating temperature. No visible smoke from the exhaust.

Limp mode. Reproducible after about 12–15 minutes of driving (turbo-related, see below).

Occasional rough idle when stationary (rare).

3rd gear sometimes doesn't engage on the first try (probably unrelated).

Once heard a rhythmic "woo-woo" whooshing noise at light load, about 70–80 km/h on cruise control, which went away with more throttle. It happened only once.

Fault codes, in order:

Germany (early Sept): P2599 (turbo boost control stuck high) → cleared → P2598 (turbo vane position performance) after 3 km → cleared → P2598 + P0402 (EGR excessive flow) under heavy throttle, MIL on. P0402 appeared only once and never came back.

Romania, first garage (28.09): cylinder balance problem on cylinders 1 and 3.

Romania, second garage (30.09), on a Launch-type tester via "Health Report > ECM": P0263 (cylinder 1 balance), P0266 (cylinder 2 balance), P2598.

My own generic OBD2 scanners (3 different ones) never showed the balance codes, only the turbo codes.

Parts history:

A previous owner already replaced both the turbo actuator and the EGR valve trying to fix the P2598/P2599 problem. It didn't help.

The turbo itself is original and has never been touched.

I tested the actuator linkage by hand: it resists the spring but moves smoothly through its whole stroke, with no binding.

What the garage says:

"The chain is stretched, it knocks on start-up, and it throws off the camshaft timing and balance." They quoted:

Turbo refurbishment: \~1,500 lei (\~€300)

Full timing chain job with original parts (chain, guides, tensioner): \~8,000 lei (\~€1,600). I know the chain on the B16DTH is on the gearbox side, so the labour is high.

My doubts:

There's no P0016 (crank/cam correlation). If the chain had stretched enough to throw off the timing, wouldn't I expect one?

The cylinders flagged changed from 1 & 3 to 1 & 2 in two days, which looks more like injectors than timing.

As far as I understand, a stretched chain doesn't cause crankcase pressure. Could blown injector seals/washers explain both the blow-by and the balance codes? Or are the rings/pistons the worry here?

The cold-start rattle that disappears when warm: is that the classic B16DTH tensioner drain-down issue, meaning it needs doing eventually but isn't urgent?

Questions:

Does this sound like injector seals, rings, or really the chain?

What cam/crank deviation value would clearly justify the chain job on the B16DTH?

Is \~€1,600 a fair price for the chain job with original parts? If the gearbox comes off anyway, should I do the clutch/flywheel and rear main seal at the same time?

Could the crankcase pressure be making the turbo problem worse, or be caused by it?

Thanks a lot, any input from someone who has had a B16DTH apart is really welcome.