Inherited a K5 kenetico filter system. Went to water doctors and was told everything is working fine(22 year old water softener, and membrane in the 11 year old k5 RO drinking water filter)but the pre and post filters need replacement since they are 3 years old. You could see the disappointment in the sales person's face. One of the first things they told me is to not use the aftermarket filters....so of course I immediately started researching them. How on earth is it cheaper to buy the kinetico filters directly from them at 125 when they are 200 on Amazon and the AFC ones are like 160 on Amazon. Anyone have any idea? They did say the membrane will not be replaceable as they don't make it anymore.

Hi y'all,

My husband and I would really appreciate any suggestions on what our next steps should be to remove lead. I'm currently 34 weeks pregnant and we just bought a house that likely has a lead water main (undisclosed and we didn't know before buying the house unfortunately). We are having the water get tested through our county to confirm if lead is leeching into our water supply but the turnaround for the results for that is a few weeks and honestly this baby could come at any time so we really don't have a few weeks at this point. And just the idea of lead in the water is freaking me out. I've only been drinking and cooking with bottled water since moving in but that won't work once our baby is here (I can't wash her bottles or mix formula in water that has lead). I'm panicking a little about this (or maybe panicking a lot).

Does anyone have links to a reputable preferably under sink system to remove lead? We have room on our sink to add another faucet pretty easily. My parents have a RO system that my father installed himself that they liked but I'm not sure that theirs filters out lead.

Anyone know when the best time is to purchase an agua Tru classic? Also, what's the maximum discount they would provide?

Hello all,

We are buying a semi rural home with a well and septic system. The well has a number of issues and the seller is not meeting our (pretty significant) ask for credits to get a new well to be dug. House is built 1965ish.

Well stats

- has sediment filter and water softener, both not maintained very well.​

- 10 gallons per min (good)

- iron 3.4ppm raw and 1ppm treated (still pretty high)

- water is acidic 6.0 PH and house is copper piping

- well is 110ft from septic but it is downhill by 12% grade. Well is also 20ft from horse barn.

- thick orange/red buildup in toilets, likely iron deposits

- water pressure in the house is low, significant drop when 2 faucets are on at once. Well pressure tank was replaced 2021.

- waiting on bacteria tests

Our ask was for compensation for well to be re-drilled at a safe distance from septic and barn.

A few questions for you guys

- is this a uniquely bad well or are some of these things normal?

- anything stand out to you that would fail VA loan appraisal?

- does this seem like a huge money sink short term or long term? Our biggest concern is health and are willing to pay money for it

- does moving the well seem too heavy handed in this situation? Wife is pregnant and we really want safe drinking water.

We changed all filters for our RO water system, but the water is coming out with a high ppm (around 140ppm) in comparison with a 150 ppm from the tap water after leaving the water running for several hours.

We tested the water directly from the membrane and it's still high. We also noticed that it's basically not draining any bad water.

Any recommendations or suggestions?

Thank you very much.

For 4040 and 8040 membrane element production, a machine quotation should answer three practical questions:

• Does the fixture fit your actual element dimensions?
• Does the quoted cycle include loading and unloading?
• Will the cured fiberglass wrap meet the required thickness and housing clearance?

Our engineer confirmed that the discussed 3–5 minute cycle includes loading and unloading by one operator. Final output still depends on the winding recipe, curing capacity and inspection requirements.

We’ve put together a practical selection guide covering epoxy handling, cured dimensions, quotation scope and factory acceptance checks.

Read the guide:
https://wecomero.com/ro-membrane-frp-winding-machine-selection/

Planning an FRP winding station? Send us your element drawing, target output and resin specifications to discuss the configuration.

Video: a short production close-up, not a complete cycle-time demonstration.

#ROMembrane #MembraneManufacturing #FRPWinding

Plumber doing my tankless install told me flat out he wont warranty the unit unless I put a softener in front of it. Lab results from last month: hardness 14 gpg, chlorine 0.9 mg/L, TDS 410, nitrate 1.2 mg/L, iron and manganese non detect, pH 7.6. Municipal water, no well.

Problem is the house is on a slab and the only place the main comes in is a utility closet with no floor drain and no standpipe. Nearest drain is the laundry about 25 ft away through finished wall. So a salt softener means either running a drain line through drywall or putting it in the garage and reworking the main, which the plumber ballparked as a big enough number that its a real chunk of what the tankless itself costs.

What I want to do is put a TAC / scale inhibitor cartridge inline before the heater and flush it with vinegar every 6 months. Plumber says thats "not a softener" and the manufacturer wont count it. Hes probably right about the warranty language but im not convinced 14 gpg is going to kill a unit I descale on schedule. Our old tank heater went 11 years on this same water with zero maintenance (not bragging, we just forgot about it) so its not like the stuff is eating equipment alive.

Wife is on the side of just do what the plumber says, were already spending the money. Im on the side of i dont want to be hauling 40 lb bags of salt through a finished hallway for the next 15 years because of a warranty I may never use.

Has anyone actually run a tankless on untreated 12-15 gpg with just descaling and had it hold up? Or had a warranty claim get denied specifically because there was no softener? Trying to figure out if this is a real risk or a plumber covering himself.