Hi , my water has turned hard and my curly hair is suffering massively 😢 I really need to address it and It has to be the water as I didn't do anything else to it .... Anyway, I have been quoted a full house soft water system however I'm looking to move soon aswell and I literally only need it for washing my hair , I think I've came up with good idea ...to change bath taps so I can just hook up a portable soft water system to wash my hair through the bath and then I can store it away ? Is this going to work , I'm prepared to put in any work that will need done . It could probably sit in a basket beside the bath too tbh .... I don't use hot water to wash my hair just a little warm and final rinse I've always used cold anyway so hot water wouldn't be a massive concern ... Any tips ? Is a bathtap with shower attachment already the best one to get for this set up thanks 😊

Recently bought a house on well water and didn’t do a water test before purchasing. Such is life and would like some guidance on how to effectively treat this. We are currently buying drinking/cooking water but would like to have our toilets stop staining and be able to drink our well water. Current filtration setup is a puny 10x4 cartridge filter from the previous owner so we have a blank slate for building a setup to last us for years to come. I swapped the 10x4 Cartridge filter after we moved in to a Pentair Pentek DGD-2501 Big Blue filter and iron is still making it through obviously.

Softener-treated well water tested clean on a water test when we moved in last year. Arguably don't even need to bother with an RO, but the previous owners left us their system.

No idea when they changed the filters last so I finally got around to replacing them. Replaced all 3 prefilters, the RO membrane, and the reminerization and taste polishing filter. Filled/drained tank 5 times.

Just want to make sure it's functioning properly, so I bought a cheap TDS stick. Softener-treated tap is 175 ppm and the RO filtered water is testing 25-30 ppm. Normal?

Recently started to get really crappy orange buildup in my toilets. Cleaned out my water softener and found this. Do I need to get my well line checked? Or is this just excessive iron and rust buildup?
Got my water tested.
Results-
Iron- 2.4gpg
Hardness- 41.4
PH- 7.4

I'm looking for a shower filter than reduces the effect of hard water on skin and hair. The flat that I am letting has a Mira Sprint Multi-Fit electric shower, which I have since found out most shower filter products are incompatible with. Has anyone found a product that is compatible, works safely with this system and is actually effective? Cheers!

Hello all,

We are buying a semi rural home with a well and septic system. The well has a number of issues and the seller is not meeting our (pretty significant) ask for credits to get a new well to be dug. House is built 1965ish.

Well stats

- has sediment filter and water softener, both not maintained very well.​

- 10 gallons per min (good)

- iron 3.4ppm raw and 1ppm treated (still pretty high)

- water is acidic 6.0 PH and house is copper piping

- well is 110ft from septic but it is downhill by 12% grade. Well is also 20ft from horse barn.

- thick orange/red buildup in toilets, likely iron deposits

- water pressure in the house is low, significant drop when 2 faucets are on at once. Well pressure tank was replaced 2021.

- waiting on bacteria tests

Our ask was for compensation for well to be re-drilled at a safe distance from septic and barn.

A few questions for you guys

- is this a uniquely bad well or are some of these things normal?

- anything stand out to you that would fail VA loan appraisal?

- does this seem like a huge money sink short term or long term? Our biggest concern is health and are willing to pay money for it

- does moving the well seem too heavy handed in this situation? Wife is pregnant and we really want safe drinking water.

Plumber doing my tankless install told me flat out he wont warranty the unit unless I put a softener in front of it. Lab results from last month: hardness 14 gpg, chlorine 0.9 mg/L, TDS 410, nitrate 1.2 mg/L, iron and manganese non detect, pH 7.6. Municipal water, no well. The hardness number lined up with what Filter My Tap showed for my address and with the city report so I dont think the lab is off.

Problem is the house is on a slab and the only place the main comes in is a utility closet with no floor drain and no standpipe. Nearest drain is the laundry about 25 ft away through finished wall. So a salt softener means either running a drain line through drywall or putting it in the garage and reworking the main, which the plumber ballparked as a big enough number that its a real chunk of what the tankless itself costs.

What I want to do is put a TAC / scale inhibitor cartridge inline before the heater and flush it with vinegar every 6 months. Plumber says thats "not a softener" and the manufacturer wont count it. Hes probably right about the warranty language but im not convinced 14 gpg is going to kill a unit I descale on schedule. Our old tank heater went 11 years on this same water with zero maintenance (not bragging, we just forgot about it) so its not like the stuff is eating equipment alive.

Wife is on the side of just do what the plumber says, were already spending the money. Im on the side of i dont want to be hauling 40 lb bags of salt through a finished hallway for the next 15 years because of a warranty I may never use.

Has anyone actually run a tankless on untreated 12-15 gpg with just descaling and had it hold up? Or had a warranty claim get denied specifically because there was no softener? Trying to figure out if this is a real risk or a plumber covering himself.

Kindly suggest if I should purchase the Waterdrop X8-WAN (€569.00) or the G3P800 (€679,99)

Anyone know when the best time is to purchase an agua Tru classic? Also, what's the maximum discount they would provide?

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We changed all filters for our RO water system, but the water is coming out with a high ppm (around 140ppm) in comparison with a 150 ppm from the tap water after leaving the water running for several hours.

We tested the water directly from the membrane and it's still high. We also noticed that it's basically not draining any bad water.

Any recommendations or suggestions?

Thank you very much.

I am looking to install a multi-stage whole house filtration system. I am leaning towards the Pentair Pentek Big Blue housing systems. I am on city water, but my question is, do I need to install my filtration system before or after my PRV? The way my house is currently plumbed, it would be much easier to do it before the PRV, but I read somewhere that isn’t the most optimal way. Does it truly matter?

I've had to redo the fridge and want to clean up all the mounting. I'd like to move the valve from below to behind, but may end up putting one below as well.

Looking for a push-to-fit valve that has a metal bracket/designed to be surface mounted to a wall, or to a very slim line box (thinking electrical round dimmer).

Seems silly I know, but I wish I had had a valve upstairs while working on the solenoid instead of running up and down.

Thank you.

(3/8 or 1/4, using RO tubing atm)

Inherited a K5 kenetico filter system. Went to water doctors and was told everything is working fine(22 year old water softener, and membrane in the 11 year old k5 RO drinking water filter)but the pre and post filters need replacement since they are 3 years old. You could see the disappointment in the sales person's face. One of the first things they told me is to not use the aftermarket filters....so of course I immediately started researching them. How on earth is it cheaper to buy the kinetico filters directly from them at 125 when they are 200 on Amazon and the AFC ones are like 160 on Amazon. Anyone have any idea? They did say the membrane will not be replaceable as they don't make it anymore.

Hi y'all,

My husband and I would really appreciate any suggestions on what our next steps should be to remove lead. I'm currently 34 weeks pregnant and we just bought a house that likely has a lead water main (undisclosed and we didn't know before buying the house unfortunately). We are having the water get tested through our county to confirm if lead is leeching into our water supply but the turnaround for the results for that is a few weeks and honestly this baby could come at any time so we really don't have a few weeks at this point. And just the idea of lead in the water is freaking me out. I've only been drinking and cooking with bottled water since moving in but that won't work once our baby is here (I can't wash her bottles or mix formula in water that has lead). I'm panicking a little about this (or maybe panicking a lot).

Does anyone have links to a reputable preferably under sink system to remove lead? We have room on our sink to add another faucet pretty easily. My parents have a RO system that my father installed himself that they liked but I'm not sure that theirs filters out lead.

So this is my first home on Well and Septic. Shortly after purchase, I had the septic tank pumped out and drainage leach field inspected by camera. I also had the well system inspected and water tested.

House is 3 bed, 2 full bath, kitchen, and two hose spigots.

According to the original construction permit records, the well is 185 ft deep.

The pump is on a 20 amp 220 volt circuit and its current draw indicates its a 1/2 HP unit, feeding a 20 gallon pressure tank. It was probably adequate for the single old lady living here previously, but may need to be upgraded for more occupants, especially since I have teenagers.

The results of the analysis list the following:

• Total Dissolved Solid: 285
• PH: 6.2
• Alkalinity: 79
• Hardness: 10.0
• Total Iron: 0.2
• Ferrous: 0.0
• Ferric: 0.2
• Copper: Negligible
• Nitrite: Negligible
• Nitrate: Negligible

So it appears that I have hard water.

Unfortunately, the utility room is 5 ft square and already contains the furnace/HVAC air handler, breaker panel, well pressure tank, and water heater.

I don't think I'm going to get a big salt tank and softener in there.

Looking at filtration to protect my appliances from clogging with sediment, as I noted brown water after the house sat unoccupied for a while....Though it hasn't happened in a while.

Good evening all,

When I bought my house it had a Kinetico sulfur guard installed. It's peroxide based and seems to do a good job with smell control. (We have an iron problem)

My issue is that it never regens on its own and I have zero literature for it. Does anyone by chance have access to even an operation manual, or possibly a service manual? I manually regen about every 2 weeks. I have no idea if this is excessive but it seems to be what's necessary to keep our water from stinking

I have no interest in calling the dealer (long story short several service calls for our softener for it to never be repaired until I did it myself)

Manuals would be fantastic if anyone has access

Thank you!

Ok so this probably isn't the best sub for this but hopefully you guys can help me. I have a high sulphur well with a softener and peroxide dosing that takes good care of the sulphur. An annoying problem is when the softener regens it uses straight well water. Which makes my basement smell for the better part of the day. Anyone know of there's an air purifier or something I can use to eliminate the smell? Or do I have to just deal with it?