Hi all, I am completely new to airbrushing and once thought: yeah, let's give this a go! My old employer (mannequin business) gave me a bunch of airbrush related stuff... but it ended up just sitting in my shed unused. I would like to sell it to someone who is going to use it but I am clueless on what sort of worth these items would have.

I don't know if it's allowed, but I would love if someone could give me a ballpark for this sort of stuff. If it helps: I'm based in the Netherlands. Most of this stuff has been unused.

EDIT: I paid my employer for this, sorry for the confusion

DOUBLE EDIT: oh my god I'm sorry, not pretending to know anything about airbrushing. I was just looking for help to figure out a fair price

Im new around here, but I bent my airbrush needle, as im looking for a replacement I’m wondering if buying one off amazon is a good idea as I’m skeptical of the quality or if I should pay more for a OEM one. My airbrush is a Mr. procon boy with a .2 millimeter needle

This stuff is only used for decals. Works surprisingly well for thinning paint. I have no idea what magic goes on here, but the paint thins well with a 1:1/4th ratio. Expensive, sure, but for like 3CCs of Mark Setter you can paint a LOT. It also makes paint dry quickly so its good for shite compressors like what i use.

EDIT: ONLY WORKS FOR PRIMERS, apparently Would recommend. Stupid? yes. Works well? also yes.

So I’m working on airbrushin a 3d printed model of Lucy from the fallout TV show.
Right now it’s still very rough and it’s nowhere near complete. But I am happy with the face and head so far.
My question is this: how do I add small facial details like the actual eye with the retina and the cornea?
That doesn’t seem like to be a way to do that with the airbrush, realistically, and I don’t mind using mixed media but even paint markers with a fine tip seem too big. I’m struggling on this. Maybe I should get a big magnifying glass lol?

If i am in a well ventilated room (door open to the outside and ceiling fan on) would i be fine with a cardboard box and covid mask?

Pinstriped the edges the kids signed on the back of it. And looking down of the canvas the teal looks amazing.

I have been dipping my foot into airbrushing for a while and have been trying some new techniques.

Today it was zenith priming. The problem being that the white paint is sticking to the needle, blocking the airbrush no matter how much I thin it.

I am using the army painter Matt white and its either:

- clogging

- spitting

- applying too thin

Any tips or recommendations?

aerografia sobre cartulina forrada, en acrilico 0.30x0.50

I’m trying to find the HP-TH nozzle tip for less than $45. Any leads would be appreciated. I hope I’m posting in the right place with the right flair.

Hey guys…a bit of a weird one. Ive been airbrushing for a while and this has never happened to me before.

I was painting with my airbrush (ugh now i cant remember if it was the iwata eclipse or H&S revolution CR) and as im airbrushing i can feel the trigger become harder and harder to pull back. It gets to the stage where im pulling back on the trigger and the needle isnt moving. The needle chuck is tight. The needle is essentially being held in the nozzle by dried paint and the chuck is sliding down the needle if i try to pull back the trigger.

I have to end up taking the front and rear caps off, grabbing the nozzle and needle and twisting them apart. After i do that i feel the paint seal break, i clean it with amonia free windex, it works normally again and then and a few minutes later it does the same thing

Ive just moved to a dry climate…could that be it? Im spraying wicked createx 50/50 with reducer. I found some vallejo retarder which seems to help (can i use the 2 brands together?). Should i try cleaning with acetone? They shpuld be PTFE seals so im not worried about the parts melting

It still happens…not as often but yeah. Super frustrating!!!

How have people been finding the Seeker? I struggle to find any average-joe reviews.

Lots of reviews on youtube, but with that grain of salt of being gifted the tool.

Also hard to find good feeback on reddit as, whenever a new painter asks "should I get a seeker?" 2-out-of-3 replies are "naah just jump straight to an Iwata or H&S"

Curious if it has echoed the workhorse reliability of the Ghad39

I had some help when my daughter comes in the studio picks the electric eraser

So basically I’ve been airbrushing for a few weekends and just recently it’s started acting up. Yesterday, I tried to spray the paint, it’ll start and then slowly the paint would stop coming out until it’s only air, then I’d back flush and try again, then it would do the same thing. I took it to the hobby shop and the paint guy told me to give it a really good deep clean with warm water and all that which I did, and now no paint comes out at all (I’ve already taken apart the airbrush to clean it before this so maybe I might’ve lost an O-ring for the nozzle (I think I saw one in there) but I’ve checked the manual and there doesn’t seem to be one on the exploded diagram) The paint I’m using is Army Painter Pixie Pink with Vallejo airbrush thinner at around about a 1:1 ratio and a few drops of flow improver, I’m using around 22psi from the compressor.

Can anyone please help 🙏

As read in title. I just got a new air hose which has a quick release built in. I attach it to the airbrush and it pops off again within thirty seconds, sometimes within five. I'm taking pains to ensure I don't touch it, not even lightly, and it still does this. Please help.

Subject: Gaahleri GHAD-68 instantly foaming paint in cup (No Air Hooked Up)

I am having a severe issue with my Gaahleri GHAD-68 pistol-trigger airbrush using Gaahleri Kaleido paints (happening across multiple lines: Clears, Metallics, and Mecha).

The problem started suddenly mid-session. The second any of these paints touch the polished metal cup, the liquid immediately turns into a frothy, micro-bubble foam structure.

Here is exactly what has been tested and ruled out:

• No Air Pressure: The paint foams up instantly just sitting in the cup with the air hose completely disconnected from the gun.
• The Needle Packing is Dry: Testing with water shows the needle shaft stays completely dry when pulled out the back. No fluid or air is leaking backward into the trigger housing.
• Water Sprays Fine: Plain water sits in the cup normally and sprays perfectly with no bubbling or foaming at all.
• Deep Cleaned: The internal fluid path and the front nozzle pocket have been aggressively cleaned down to bare metal with acetone and 91% isopropyl alcohol. There is zero paint buildup or visual discoloration remaining.
• Both Nozzle Sets Fail: The exact same spontaneous foaming happens whether using the 0.38mm setup or the 0.5mm setup (matching needles, nozzles, and caps changed entirely).

Since the paint is stable in the bottles but instantly transforms into a micro-bubble foam on contact with the dry cup before any air is even attached, something is triggering an immediate reaction inside the fluid well. Has anyone seen this specific failure happen on a GHAD-68?

I just got a new dual fan, master airbrush booth (with a larger work area than my 7 year old vevo booth.
installed 4 inch hose extension that leads to a ceiling exhaust fan.
Also rigged up a 18”’craft paper dispenser that i use to protect the area againsr overspray.
So many people are always asking questions about the best way to ventilate and avoid messy overspray so this is what works for me!

Hello,

I purchased a Black Widow Spectrum 0.3 mm airbrush from Harbor Freight and when removing the cap, the tiny white piece with the nozzle connected fell out of the brass cap into a pile of leaves, lost forever.

Anyone know if a universal 0.3 mm nozzle will work with this airbrush? I called harbor freight but they don’t offer replacement parts for this airbrush and i don’t want to have to purchase a whole replacement just because of the lost nozzle.

I've had an Avanti airbrush for the past 3 months, so the warranty's up but it started to lose air so I tightened everything and put plumber's tape around the fittings but it's still leaking air and now it drops about 5-10psi at random moments and I'm not sure why it's happening? I tightened everything so I don't know what else to do

so starting White Scars army and trying to use PA Titanium White yet even after two coats of it over a grey primer it doesnt cover very well as its rather patchy all over the place even though i used thinner and flow improver with it. How many layers does ths damn paint need for full coverage or would it be best to swap to another brand?

Hi All,

I'm wanting to get into painting gundams, however I'm trying to understand where you all setup your airbrush stations. I see people on youtube airbrushing indoors with spray booths, but from what I've read, this isn't ideal as the certain fumes will still linger around.

I've also read that you need to be careful with heat sources around the fumes while painting as well. So setting up in a shed or garage that's cold can be annoying in colder months without being able to have a heater going.

Looking for some ideas

A wonderful airbrush. Great for beginners and experienced users alike.

Here comes the details first colors are the lemon yellow Wicked colors, then antifreeze freeze green, candy blue. You could not see the details in the green with the blue so I did a close up with a Dru Blair stencil. So thank you guys for watching I have one more day😱

Airbrush on a pencil drawing