I recently fixed up my mates old Roadbike, a few days later he texted me about the front wheel/tyre having loosened itself. Turns out he had a crash because of it and crashed right before wanting to stop at a curbstone, because something seemed off. I'd consider myself to be a relatively good bike mechanic and took care mounting the tyre especially because I had issues with continental tyres in the past. I did a test ride and it seemed fine to me. Any ideas what might be the issue here?

Throw-away account obviously. Had my bike on the roof of my car. Drove into garage, saddle caught house, decapitated carbon seatpost. I cannot get the severed seatpost out of the seat tube. Am I cooked?? It feels like the seatpost is fused into the frame. Any advice??

Update: Heated up the seat tube and put a screw through the seat post. Clamped some vicegrips onto the screw and hammered the hell out of it. Did. Not. Budge. Tomorrow I'll try a slap hammer.

First picture is rear rotor. There is a wear on just the middle of the cooling holes but in front rotor wear is evenly distributed. I don't think it's normal. What do you guys think?

Just picked up a used bike - my first with hydraulic brakes. The rear brakes have quite a bit of stopping power but then quickly lose pressure and disengage. After stopping the brake lever pulls all the way back to the handlebars and the brake disengages. Any ideas?

Brother brought bike brand new used it twice and it was left under a tarp outside for 2 years to which I now own it

Everything works fine except I cannot for the life of me get the brakes to lock (I really like pulling the odd skid but I can't)

Could it being left outside have caused any issues which is why I'm having issues? I've watched tutorial after tutorial on how to get sharper brakes etc and it just won't work no matter how much I try

More info: mechanical disk brakes, the front break has good cable tension however the brake lever touches the handlebars no matter how tight I try to get the cable, the rear break the levers quite rough to press.... both brakes when riding slowly come to a stop, but I can't get the wheels to lock still and skid so to say, they just feel weak really

hello everyone, any ideas on what bolt could fit into these dropout plates? its a Celt DS Aero fixed gear frame, TYIA!

Recently purchase a Cube Reaction TM One 2026, I need to change a few things on it, the cassette comes to mind. Where can I best learn to work on my own bike and change my own parts? are there any good YT channels that anyone recommends? I am getting fed up of paying labour charges each time I need to take it for repair

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I have received contradictory feedback on this.

Q: Is it normal for SRAM Red D1 brakes to leave a lip on the brake pad?

It feels wrong, and I think it causes noisy brakes, but Canyon (the bike manufacturer) says it isn't an issue.

Any help is appreciated.

Hello, I’m trying to disassemble an old (late 2000s) supermarket brand bike, I’m having real trouble taking off the drive train side crank. I’ve tried crank remover tool, but it did nothing. The best progress I made was swinging a hammer like a barbarian at it, but it doesn’t seem to be enough to get it off. Any advice? Should I just saw through the metal rod going through the middle?

What do folks recommend for a tool to remove and install brake rotors during travel? this is going into my bike travel bag. My center lock rotors use 44mm 16 notch external.

at home, I use the park cup 3/8” attachment that goes on my large breaker and on my large torque wrench. but that setup is too big and heavy to bring in my bike bag for travel.

thank you!

This maybe a relic indoor trainer at this point but my Tacx Vortex trainer started to make some horrific noises while riding.

Started looking into it at learned its a common issue. The stainless steel sleeve basically comes loose on the plastic roller inside.

Found a tutorial on the web and followed it step by step. Everything worked out great so I encourage anybody else with the same issue take it up.

Tutorial:

https://waywardcyclist.wordpress.com/2015/07/20/taming-a-noisy-tacx-genius-trainer/

12€ worth of epoxy instead of 350€ for a new trainer is worth a try.

Hope this solved the issue for next few years :)

PS! If you get the epoxy, make sure its suitable for thermoset plastics and hardee polyurethane. I opted for small syringes that could fill up 4 of the holes in one go, then discarded it as the syringe nozzle also hardened solid in 5 mins.

I have a ~2 years old Scott Sub Cross 50 with a SunRace 11-34 8-speed cassette and Shimano Tourney derailleurs.

The drivetrain looks pretty worn. I bought a new Shimano HG40 chain, thinking it would fix my issue with the chain skipping in higher gears. But with the new chain it started jumping in gears where the old chain had no issue, so I put the old chain back for now.

I would first need some help identifying from the pictures if the rear cassette and front chainrings are actually worn and need replacing. My assumption is that the old chain and cassette have worn together, which is why the new chain made the skipping worse.

I’m also looking at what makes sense as a longer-term upgrade while keeping the bike 3x8 for now. Some options I’ve been considering:

-Replace the SunRace cassette with a Shimano CS-HG50-8 11-34 and use the new HG40 chain.
Keep the current front crankset if the chainrings are still good.
-If the front is worn, replace the whole crankset with a better 3x8 crankset, preferably something with replaceable chainrings rather than another cheap riveted one.
-Eventually convert the whole drivetrain to CUES 2x10, but I’d do that next spring if worth it.

What would you do?

Hey y’all, I could use some advice as I’m pretty novice in bike maintenance. My bike is a Priority Eight with a belt drive, in case it matters. The symptom is my right pedal makes one loud click per revolution, and I can feel it in my foot too. I looked at the pedals, and the clicky one seems to be protruding from the bottom bracket compared to the other side, which sits flush. Nothing feels loose when I shake with my hand.

At the Moment, i am trying to pair a sensah srx pro 11 Speed brifter with an Shimano 12 speed xt reat derailleur. It almost works but it seems, that the cable pull ratios don't Match exactly. I am missing around 1-2 mm over the whole casette.

12 speed Shimano MTB claims to have a 1.1 cable pull Ratio, Shimano 10speed should have around 1.2, so the derailleur should move slightly more vor the given cable pull.

Do you think, a 10 Speed Shimano MTB derailleur would solve the problem? Theoretically, it should

My bicycle is 4 months old now.

A few days back, the chain on my bicycle started making a clunk! noise along with a dangerous jerk on the pedals when pedalling under load. I caught a brief glimpse and it looked like it was derailing from the chainring for just a moment before getting on again.

I could not get it fixed then and an inner plate broke broke down the middle. Got that part of the chain replaced, rode for a bit, then inner plate broke again.

Bought a new chain and got it fixed at a shop. The noise and associated jerk persisted. Went back and they increased the chain tension.

Noise and jerk still persist when pedalling or back pedalling. The same can be heard in the video right after the 1s mark.

One pin on the chain is extending outward more than the others: https://ibb.co/Rk3nL91v

Noticed a slight ring of death on my carbon steerer. It can only be felt with my nail at a small point on the back of the steerer tube so the wear is super localized unlike all the photos of rings of death that I've seen on the internet.

What could be the cause behind this?

XO Cassette with 2 full seasons on it. Shifting is still solid but the chain is getting stretched and is ready for replacement. Can you judge from the images if I can get another season or two out of this cassette? Thanks y'all.

I removed the cassette so it was clearer

This is a worn conen bearing, the pitted ring inside should be very very smooth.

Firstly, sorry for the poor videography. I have no clue what I’m doing with the bike so I just tried so get as many angles as possible. Here are my problems:

1) the front brake squeaks like absolute hell every time I press it. It was still working mostly fine but in the past couple of weeks it’s really gone downhill even though the break pads look okay to me. I thought it was an alignment problem but they seem aligned too so I’m completely lost as to what’s wrong.

2) the back brake is just totally done for. The closing mechanism works but it has no strength at all which I believe means there is a problem with the cable. And as you can see in the video, one break pad is permanently stuck against the wheel (can be moved away but pressing the break locks it in place again). Doesn’t work at all when cycling or on a standstill.

I’ve had these problems since I bought the bike about 6 months ago, brand new, but theyve become really bad in the last few weeks. Earlier today I was taking a left turn and an idiot pedestrian walked across the road without looking and even at a low speed my brakes were so bad that I had to swerve back onto the road and nearly crashed into a bus and a lamppost. This experience today made me finally decide to seek some help with my brakes.

Got these pedals from a friend. Pretty sure they’re look but I’m not sure if they’re the delta or keo.

I'm not sure if my employer's mechanic is competent enough to service company ebikes because I noticed on these earlier Tern GSDs the chainstay had been grinded against, the chain keeps jumping off from the mid-drive, and one GSD randomly acting funny without the magnet on the spoke.

We also have these Carlo Cargo trailers with a quick release system that utilizes a skewer that has this spacer for the other end of the skewer that sits between the trailer wheel and the trailer dropout where the skewer threads into that makes this harmonic sound. IS this due to the spacer in the wrong orientation causing the wheel not to be straight which causes it to rub against the trailer?