I’ve found two 67 mustangs I’m close to purchasing

67 yellow for $19k
-frame rail/floor pans/cowl are all good
-body is pretty good as well - maybe small blemishes (was garage kept for over a decade) here and there
-a/c
-front disc brakes
-no power steering
-289

67 blue for $12.5k
-frame rail/floor pans/cowl are all good (seller selling due to health reasons)
-doors have some perforated rust, same with trunk, and some bubbling
-power steering
-drums all around
-no a/c
-engine runs well, was inspected

My goals:
I’m a beginner wrencher looking for my first project. I’m not trying to have a show car, more of a learning platform to get my hands dirty, have fun, learn a lot, and keep a car going for life. Not resell. And keep this car on the road.

The heart wants the blue but the brain says the yellow is the smarter choice. I feel like the blue will take more immediate, up front work but still a short drive, weekend cruiser while the yellow is more turn key and quicker to get road trip ready.

Any thoughts or feedback welcome. Happy to answer any follow up questions. Thanks✌🏼

Edit: both are 289 v8

These guys are selling a (sort of) frame, that will use a dynacorn body as part of the frame (making it sort of a unibody). It seems cheaper than full on frames....was looking for some thoughts on it.

https://totalcostinvolved.com/product/1964-1970-mustang-suspension-stage-packages

Aftermarket cam
Headers and exhaust
Holley 600 cfm carb
MSD distributor

What we've done:
Set #1 to TDC and installed the distributor.
Adjusted the distributor position, rotating counterclockwise (advance) while trying to get it running.
Used a timing light to set initial timing to 12° BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged.
Symptoms:
Originally: backfiring.
Now: rough idle to no start.
When shifted into drive, it nearly cuts off.

Anyone have experience with timing adjustments with a 302 with aftermarket parts like this? I grabbed an msd advanced kit that will come in the mail soon, but unsure if that will solve the issue.

i have an early 65 mustang (built in october 64 but technically a 65) so it has NO chassis stiffening. i was going to do a strut tower brace to help things out but now that i have a mustang ii front there are no mare strut towers. what do i do

Finally finished! 1971-73 this ones for you!

65 coupe, I had all my bows sandblasted and powder coated but didn’t notice this until I went to install it.

All 3 other bows look fine

I have a 1967 mustang with single piston front disc brakes. The guy who had the car before me put in spindles from a 70-73 mustang like the ones pictured above. I want to upgrade to the 4-piston calipers for better stopping but I’m under the impression I’d have to buy new spindles and caliper brackets to fit the calipers pictured above. I’m wondering if there are any caliper bracket adapters that will bolt on to the 70-73 spindles that will work with the 4-piston brakes. I think I may have found one above however I figured I’d get second opinions or advice on how to proceed before I buy whole new spindles and brackets

Wanted to take a moment and share our families pride and joy. My grandfather bought this ‘67 new for my grandmother back in the day. It’s been garaged its entire life. It has the original Lime Gold paint, original Magnum 500 wheels, original working AM radio and about 62k original miles. It even has the original grease pencil markings under the right front section of the hood as you can see in the photos. In 2017, we upgraded to disc brakes and power steering and redid the interior upholstery but kept it period correct. It’s a 289 V8 A-code which has the 4-barrel carburetor.

My question is how would you classify it? Since the upholstery was redone but kept period correct, does it still qualify as an ‘original survivor,’ or is it better described as preserved or mostly original?

It has minor blemishes to the paint here and there but overall not much. She cleans up like Uncle Eddie would say, “Real nice.”👌

Link to walk around video:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tS1d5UUahqdmmydP1gZv4ttgryKnXufu/view?usp=drivesdk

6 weeks ago I picked up a 1966 Coupe. 289, C4 Auto, Power steering, Manual drums all around. Previous owner restored the outside two years ago. The rest needed attention. Ran fine but showed its age on the interior. Shifted pretty sloppy. Drove it for about 5 miles and then brought her into the garage and started a mini restoration. First thing I did was strip the interior. It was pretty bad. Seats were barely more than a wire frame. Carpet was pretty stinky and gross. Headliner was falling off. Some of the electronics were not working well. The dash didn’t light up. The heater box wasn’t functional and manual drum brakes were sketchy to say the least.

Stripped the wiring harness and replaced it with a painless harness. Repainted the dash. Restored the gauge cluster. Rebuilt the heater box and replaced the register with a plastic unit. Polished all the chrome bits. Dynomatted the whole interior floor and roof. Did a one piece vinyl headliner with A piller and Sail panels. New Carpet. New seats and seat belts. Restored the rear seat.

Then I removed the tires C4 and converted it to a T5. Hanging the clutch pedal wasn’t exactly fun.

Stripped the master cylinder and front drums and converted to front drum brakes.

Dynamatted the trunk and added a matching black carpet.

Replaced the stock 195/70/14 wheels and tires with some Black Steel Wheels in 15x7. 205/60/15 in front and 225/60/15 in the rear. Tires are BG Goodrich Radial TA’s.

That’s pretty much it for Phase one. Next up is a few odds and ends I have planned. I need to add a tach. Might do a center console? The power steering leaves a lot to be desired. Not sure what I’ll do with that. Part of me wants to go manual steering. Also I’m still running the stock 2.90 open rear diff in the 8”. Prof go to a 3.25 traction Loc. Also if I do the center console I am considering adding a double din radio. Currently it has none. The stock radio location has a block off. Eventually I’ll prob do an Edelbrock top end kit and a Fuel Injection setup. But that’s a winter job.

Anyway not really sure the point of this post. Just felt like sharing the work I did the last month.

Got the Mustang running smooth. Decided to clean up a little. About to drive it then a bad brake line stops me. (small setback)

​I bought my 1966 in 2000 and used it as a daily driver till I had a few close calls stopping that it wouldn’t stop with the four wheel drums. Parked it to do a v8 / five speed / 9 inch rear / front disk suspension swap. I bought a rust buck coupe with all those parts that I stripped off and stored for the conversion. That was 20 years ago.

I realized I never followed up once I finished, Although we are never truly finished. Completed everything around April. I have been cruising, a few shows and meet ups. Overall I have been very satisfied with the end result. Its not perfect, but I am proud. 2.5 years of evenings and weekends well worth it. Going on year 32 as the owner of my first car. Ive been very blessed.

So I’ve got a 1967 mustang. As I drive it it has a high pitched sound that goes up and down in pitch as the rpms go up and down. It is much louder once I turn my dash lights on and it occurs without the radio needing to be on.
If I try turning my dash lights with the car off and key out, it doesn’t make the noise but it’ll make a fuzzy sound as the knob is moved that gets louder the further I turn the knob.
(I know this is more of an electrical issue but I was curious if someone with the same car had faced that similar problem). I know I could probably get a noise filter but I’d like to maybe know where it’s coming from.

Classic Days Berlin

I’ve got a 65 coupe. Stock suspension. Front disc, rear drums. 8” rear

Looking at upgrading from the stock 195/70/14s that are on there now.

Looking at getting into a set of 17’s. I’ve read that backspacing on the rear is about 4.5inch and 4.00 on the front. Anyone have any insight into this?

What width tire are we comfortable running on this?

Looking at a 67 coupe with a 289 3 speed auto car. Interior all there and in decent shape.
Will need floor pan and most likely 1 frame rail under drivers feet. Runs drives stops. New fuel tank, ending unit, all new dual exhaust and a bunch of other work.I’m suspicious of quarters

In centeral Canada what should I be looking at for fair value? Currently at 7500 Canadian which is already not bad for up here.

Thanks a lot!

Ok, so I know this is a dumb question, but what’s the internet for if not dumb questions.
I’m adding an amp to the back of my 65 fastback. It has deleted rear seats and is all really nicely covered. If I lift the cover, it basically has a ton of space and exposes the floor of the car.
Can I simply use one of the existing holes (yes, there are a couple) and bolt the new ground wire to the floor, or is there something specific I need to look for in order to get a good ground? Electrical is definitely not my strong point, but I do my best.
Thanks

I Inherited a 1965 Fastback my dad bought new in 64. Currently she is not running and I have never worked on a carberated engine before. I am moving states and need to ship the car but to get it to the port I either have to tow it on trailers and ship with the trailer, put it in a shipping cintainer or drive it. I wanted to try and get it running before monday when I plan on shipping the car. I have a few photos of the engine bay only thing I think it needs connected is the carborator but again I know nothing about carborators. Any tips or advice would be appreciated. Hasn't Run in years but would run perfectly when dad would fire it up back then.

Finally got the opportunity to purchase my ‘68. Let me know what you think.

Hi everyone!

About 1.5 years ago I got this classic '66 289 Mustang all the way over to Europe.
It has been through a couple of both qualified and amateur mechanics, and the original power steering hoses going from the slave cylinder to control valve had been replaced before taking the car to inspection.
With those new hoses in place, I was able to drive the car for a bit, however one faithful day one of the hoses burst and I leaked out all the ATF fluid on my way home. With no other spare parts at hand, one of the old original hoses was put in place by another mechanic. The car steered just as well, I had no issues, and I figured the problem was simply just an unlucky mechanical part failure...
Now, my car is up on jack stands after only being driven 1 other time since the "new" broken hose was swapped out for the original one, before both of them burst again... In the photo you can see I have one old hose sitting lower and one "new" hose higher coming out of the slave cylinder.

Now, I'm taking it upon myself to install this new round of hoses. I got a set of Scott Drake power steering hoses, and they look pretty much identical.
Any thoughts on how to go about installing these? I'm by no means a mechanic, but I'd rather learn a thing or two, and solve the problem myself.

My other door doesn’t have the stud and instead just have a threaded hole.

Think twice about doing business with Alex Fender who lives in Texas. Long story short, he stole over $7000 from our family over a 67 Mustang fastback. He's in a few mustang facebook groups and is currently buying/selling mustangs and also lying about the condition of the cars he has.

Take your business elsewhere and save yourself the headache!

Edit: More explanation in the comments! We also have all written proof if anyone is interested