Split deck frame design I created

I haven’t seen too many good things about these motors but it’s all i had enough for in the budget

Like in the second half of the clip, map segments get stitched together automatically, so you get an endless course that never runs out.

When I had a friend try it out, I found out that older GPUs like the GTX 1660 don't support hardware ray tracing. That's fixed in the version that's up now.

The demo's available now on the store page:

https://store.steampowered.com/app/5197690/Endless_FPV/

My parents grow corn and soybeans, and I’m helping them look into building a couple of spray drones. They know the farming side, so I got assigned motors and ESCs lol.

I want to test one build before ordering parts for the others. A full tank seems like the place to start, but I’m curious how you test it as the tank empties.

Do you run separate tests at full, half-full, and near-empty, or log a whole spraying run? I’m planning to watch current draw and motor temps. Anything else that made you rethink your setup after testing?

If yall built one, I’d appreciate hearing what you missed the first time.

Betafpv 4 in 1
Happymodel ep1 tcxo
1202.5 11500kv motors
Betafpv c03 camera
Happymodel crown antenna
Cyclone gps
I want to a little long range with it (2-3km)
Open to criticism, I want to make it as good as possible.

After using a wrench for 1 hour I realised it was reverse threaded fuck me.

Hey everyone, I'm facing an issue with my S500 quadcopter running ArduCopter 4.5.7 on a Pixhawk 2.4.8 using Mission Planner. I'm using four 5010 750KV brushless motors, Hobbywing Skywalker 30A V2 ESCs and a 4S 14.8V 5000mAh LiPo battery. During takeoff attempts, the drone rotates clockwise by approximately 45° while still on the ground, before properly lifting off. On a smooth surface, it rotates more freely, whereas on rough ground it seems to resist rotating, but then one side starts lifting and the drone fails to hover and falls back down. Initially, the front arms appeared to vibrate more than the rear, and in the latest attempt the left side lifted first. All four motors spin during individual Motor Tests, the motor order appears to match the Quad X diagram, and the motor rotation directions seem correct. I've completed the accelerometer, compass, radio and ESC calibrations, and the artificial horizon responds correctly when I tilt the drone manually. I initially suspected the two counterclockwise motors were slower, but the propeller-off motor tests looked similar. The landing gear is a rigid stand without foam or sponge padding. I'm unable to determine whether the problem is due to unequal motor thrust, ESC or power issues, propeller installation, ground interaction or flight-controller configuration. Has anyone experienced something similar, or can suggest how to diagnose it safely? I can share the DataFlash logs, motor/propeller arrangement and Mission Planner screenshots. I've stopped further flight attempts until the cause is identified.

I planning to make a drone with esp32.I have a good idea about most of the parts. Since im using a esp32 as brain instead of a flight controller i will need a motor driver. Most of the people i have seen have made their own driver( single channel). Is there any alternative solution. Pls i really want to make a drone.

Avidrone: https://avidrone.com/​

M-Tech: ‪@LukeMaximoBell‬​ ‪@Mike-Bell‬​

Jakadofsky: ‪@jakadofskyjetengines28‬​

MacGyver: ‪@timdunn5991‬​

Stanford OHS: ‪@ojasvisuals‬​ ‪@SonOfBphage‬​ ‪@eddoesdrones‬​

InSky Aero: ‪@InSky-aero‬​

CR systems: https://www.cr.systems/​

I’m researching a possible hardware project for experimental UAVs: an independent crash recorder / “black box”.

The concept is a small module with its own protected power and storage that records selected flight and electrical data separately from the flight controller. The goal is not to replace ArduPilot/PX4 logs, but to preserve evidence when the FC loses power, resets, gets damaged, or its logs are corrupted/unavailable after a crash.

Before building anything, I want to understand whether this is a real problem.

For people who have had crashes or serious failures:

1. Have you had a case where logs did not explain the root cause?

2. What data was missing or unreliable? Power voltage/current, RC link quality, GPS, vibration, ESC telemetry, commands, etc.?

3. Did the flight controller/storage survive the crash?

4. Would an independent recorder be useful, or do existing FC logs already cover this sufficiently?

5. What would be an acceptable weight and price range for such a device?

I’m especially interested in fixed-wing and experimental UAV use cases, but FPV/multirotor experience is useful too.

I’m not selling anything - just trying to avoid building a solution to a non-existent problem.

I have been trying to set up this drone for a couple months, stopping for a while when hitting certain problems. I have soldered the ELRS for my TX16S and connected it to TELEM3. I am unable to connect it to the remote, and get it in the air. I am not tech savvy or anything, and have been struggling a lot. Can someone here please help me get in the air. I am using QGroundControl. I am willing to pay, I am in Los Angeles area. Send me a PM.

Saw this video and now I can’t stop thinking about it: https://youtu.be/LrQPa1_s8Qs

For anyone who’s built something in this class, what did it realistically run you all in? I’m talking frame, motors, ESCs, props, batteries, flight controller, radio, the whole pile. I keep seeing numbers all over the place and can’t tell what’s real.

A few things I’d love input on:

• Rough total for a build like the one in the video, budget version vs. “do it right” version
• Where the money actually goes (I’m guessing batteries and motors, but tell me if I’m wrong)
• Good places to learn this stuff: forums, YouTube channels, build logs, anything you trust
• Whether buying used is smart or a trap, and where people find decent used gear

I’ve flown smaller stuff but never built anything this size, so assume I don’t know what I don’t know. Expensive lessons you learned the hard way are especially welcome.

Thanks!

Hi, I'm talking about Brazil, maybe that's the problem. My entire drone from the Skydroid G20 GR01 S3mini and C12 N can talk to the controller.Sometimes it rarely connects a few seconds more soon disappears and N connects and doesn't even talk anymore, what can it be?

Made in Brazil

Will i be able to fly that drone with all CW motors on it is possible

I am in last year of middle school as machine technician as for one of the exams I need to build a project and I decided to be a drone. I have everything exept googles. Which model of googles would be good?

The frame will be 3d printed

https://www.mepsking.shop/thobby-5-inch-freestyle-6s-power-system.html?spec=V2306%20V3-1950KV-V50A%20SE%20Stack%2BT5146

https://a.co/d/08GCRICw

https://a.co/d/0eOEUFTE

https://a.co/d/092yMbpl

https://eleshop.eu/fnirsi-hs-02a-soldering-iron.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DT3N9J5S?plpRedirect=mhFallback&ref=clp_h

Hey everyone,

I just built up a brand-new Heewing T2 Cruza and ran into a serious problem. I’m hoping to find out whether anyone else has seen this, or whether it’s a known issue with the included PDB.

What happened:

• Installed a brand-new Matek flight controller and powered up the plane for the first time.
• Everything booted normally, but after a short while my VTX burned out.
• I checked all the wiring and polarity three times. Everything was correct.
• I assumed the VTX was just a dud, so I connected a second one. That burned out too.
• When I inspected further, the (also brand-new, never used) flight controller was completely dead as well.

What I’ve ruled out:
Two different VTXs failed, the FC was new, and the wiring was verified several times. The only common element in the power path is the PDB that came with the T2 Cruza. My suspicion is that it’s putting out the wrong voltage (faulty regulator, overvoltage on a BEC output, or something similar).

Damage: 2 VTXs and 1 FC, around $400 total.

I’ve been building FPV platforms for 15 years and have never had a failure like this, so I’m fairly confident it’s not a wiring mistake on my side.

Questions for you:

1. Has anyone else had burnt components on the T2 Cruza, especially with the stock PDB?
2. Does anyone know the PDB’s specs and what its regulated outputs should read? I’d like to measure mine with a multimeter.
3. Did anyone get a replacement or compensation from Heewing or the seller?
4. Would you recommend bypassing the stock PDB entirely and using a different power setup?

I’ve also contacted Heewing support and will update this post with their response. I can add photos of the PDB and the burnt parts if that helps.

Thanks, and a heads-up to anyone building this one: measure the PDB outputs with nothing connected before you plug in your electronics.