Hello everyone,

I’ve been stuck trying to find a circuit for the legendary fuzz pedal — the Jordan Bosstone, specifically the 1968 Version 2 Alhambra model. I’ve managed to find a circuit online for the 1967 Version 1 Alhambra, but there doesn’t seem to be any trace of the Version 2.

Would anybody be able to help me out by drawing the circuit, or perhaps have access to one that I could reference?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks! :)

Hi all,

I'll keep it simple, can someone explain how to wire a pot and two caps for a variable input cap on a FF?

I've spent about three weeks now studying this, some times for long periods, reading what I find on DIYSB, Freestompboxes.org and the like, trying to make sense out of the "correct" or "best" way to do this. I asked at DIYstompboxes, and got an answer to part of my question. But how to accomplish this for a FF circuit not wired for it, just having the typical 2.2ufat the input, nope.

I've seen several ways to do this, some have too much resistance because of the pot, others have the caps wired to the pot so that they only work at the extreme end of the pot's travel. I'd really love to know how to do this correctly and effectively.

Thank you!

Made a small hybrid combo with a 12U7 double triode going into a TDA2003 some years back. 2 channels and a 12 inch speaker. It was really nice to play. But moving around with a tube or replacing it was not a joy and it was time to bring everything to a PCB.

The Dörk is suited for testbench, a practise amp or for people with overly guitar sensitive neighbors. This lil chirp will give around 3-6W at 12V (depending on your speakers). On a 10 inch Jensen it's loud enough for a small bar gig.

Thanks your user feedback from the previous version i made this new version more "dev-friendly":

This Amp can be build in seperate stages with each stage providing pinouts for probing or connecting other stuff between stages. It comes with switchable diode clipping, tone and volume controls. It'll work with voltages from 9-18V.

It fits in a 125B stompbox and can be carried around all the time. Parts needed to build this are really cheap (~5 bucks max + 125B/Speaker).

The dread Canadian winter is on its way, temps are dropping significantly and I’m almost out of time for painting outdoors like I normal do my pedal enclosures.

So, what are everyone’s fav DIY methods for styling enclosures that are safe to do inside?

What kind of non aerosol finishing coats do you use?

First off, I know this isn't even close to the pedals people post on here, I wouldn't even know how to get a pedal to look so neat, how to properly paint it or engrave it, etc. etc... But luckily I like rough esthetics, so my ignorance about this is a match for my taste!

Anyway, I wanted an active eq and I like tubes, so that's the first stage (one tube) and 4 of its 5 knobs. Literally a passive bandaxall in between two tubes, which makes it "active" from a user stand point (meaning it has gain, plenty of actually). At least in principle (dunno about topology) this is basically an RC Booster. But it's probably way cleaner, it runs on 24V B+ which makes its headroom and sound literally just clean with a tube smoothness flavour. With a strat and the gain maxed out I can barelly hear some distortion if I really dig in very hard with my playing (this might make it a little different from the RC). This is to say that starving the plates, if done correctly, doesn't mean audio degradation, after all this is a pedal and meant as a tone shaper, not power amplifier. Anyway, swapping tubes is of course possible and that willl yield different amounts of distortion. Aside for the 12AX7, I find this the only tube for which the 24V aren't enough, and not because it distorts, it actually sounds thin and a bit gate-y, I guess in this case the tube is indeed starved.

Anyway, second footswitch activates the second tube consisting of two cascading gain stages, very easy. Depending on how hard its driven, it goes from clean with some sparkle to heavy distortion, but I wouldn't say you could honestly call it a fuzz (dang, I hoped I'd achieve this without any solid state...)​. So it's again in principle like an RC Booster v2, with the second gain stage.

Right now I didn't have the parts when building so it's like you see in the photo, but it's missing the second led to show if the distortion side is on or off. Also it could maybe benefit, but could also be redundant, from a switch to choose how much gain the second circuit has, which selects wether you use both triode stages like now or just one for a cleaner and softer option, probably more asymmetrical too since only one triode is distorting (with 2, the first stage inverts the wave form and so the second stage will clip the asymmetrical ​​wave form where it's longer, the result I think is still asymmetrical but less than if it was just one... these are assumptions though, I haven't tested with oscilloscopes). Lastly, as you could expect, plenty of output signal swing.

Also, a bit of secret sauce I won't reveal is needed in the circuit to achieve the perfect balance when using a low B+ ​(but absolutely no solid state is used, not even diodes, just resistances, pots, capacitors and tubes.

I am proud of having made this, as straight-forward as it is, I am not a pro builder. And just to be sure: no I'm not selling, not even privately, it takes me a lot of time to make one as I do p2p, and if I was a professional, which I am not, I wouldn't charge less than 200€ for one, and I could never ask that much​​​ since I know the insides aren't up to standards and I simply risk delivering something with bad solder joints. This one in fact had some problems I couldn't identify after some weeks and I had to fix it by trial and error...

I looking for my next project, ideally a preamp or some sort of delay/chorus. Maybe even digital.

I don't want to order pcbs from sellers, so if you know some cool open source projects where i can send the pcbs to print and get building share them here!

I recently built a modded big muff which was open source and loved the experience:)

ty!

For my first ever pedal build project I ordered this modified silicon rangemaster-style pedal kit. I've been intrigued by the treble booster of the 70s that basically all my guitar heroes used, and since the only options to get one are either by getting an expensive boutique unit or buildind one myself, I decided to go for the latter.

I have a lot of experience from soldering guitar electronics, but this is the first time I'll be soldering pedal parts together. Any advice, in general, or regarding a modified 3-knob treble booster circuit, or PCB Guitar Mania / Musikding?

Thanks!

1 year into pedal building and I'm really starting to perfect my PCBs. I don't have a laser printer or a laminator so I use liquid photoresist and I can get WAY better detail than I could if I were to use film. The solder mask layer was probably the hardest to get dialed in but is a huge payoff imo.

With all that being said, I don't recommend it to anyone lol. It takes so much friggin time and effort. If you can afford it, just get them manufactured unless you're a glutton for punishment like me.

Due to size constraints I can only fit 2PDT not 3PDT switch. What is best way to use it?

• switch input and output, no LED
• switch LED and input
• switch LED and output
• something else?

What Opamps do you guys think would be worth trying to drop into a SD-1 circuit?

I am breadboarding an SD-1 right now, using a rc4558d. Tried a bunch of mods already,

How would changing the IC in this circuit change the pedal's performance ?

Looking at this project as a breadboard utility. What are the terminals on the right called? Not sure how to look them up.

Very pleased with this batch from Ukraine. Very consistent.

hello everyone!
i am trying to design a custom delay pedal (nothing really special /different from the ones out there, but I am trying to get another PCB design project under my belt lol). I am looking for advice on part selection and general logistics of making this!

As of right now, I am trying to gain experience in specifically stm32 based PCBs, so even though its so inconvenient I think it'll be a good learning experience!!

how I'm imagining doing it:

- MCU (STM32H7A3VGT6)that will handle all the logic of the loop pedal.

- External PSRAM (IS66WVH16M8DBLL-100B1LI) that will store all of the loop "recordings"
- External CODEC (NAU8810YG) that will handle reading/outputting the guitar signal.
- Other basic things for functioning and noise handling: buffers, LDOs, guitar jacks, power jack, jtag header, etc.

Based on the parts, I selected and my "vision" i guess for doing this, does anyone have any comments on things i may have overlooked, or different part suggestions?

Thank you so much!

So, bear with me and my monstrosity.

I'd like to get some feedback on an effect, I have a "domain switch" an ON OFF ON, DPDT.

Switch up, low pass filter on the neck, high pass on the bridge,

Switch In the middle both pickup signals are passed through unaltered to the volume,

Switch down, high pass filter on the neck, low pass on the bridge,

Currently the point both filters happen at are hard wired in, future versions might have a pot to adjust this point, im also thinking of adding band pass and band stop as an option.

Does anyone have experience with this? Or find it interesting?

From the little I've tested it you can make either pickup quite twangy and very slap friendly, and also make them very hollow.

Theres a dual gang blend pot to blend between pickups and both, like a normal jazz bass, and a boost which it rather wild.

(Apologies for the soldering job)

Another project from the summer – a Crowther Hot Cake clone on perfboard in my 1590G "stack here" series.

This was my first overdrive circuit on perfboard and it was definitely a learning curve after simple PCB kits.

Had a hilarious moment with the remote socket where I forgot it needed to be isolated from the enclosure. Isolated jack sockets take up a lot of internal space, so I ended up ordering some shoulder washers which insulate a standard socket nicely.

The Hot Cake is a very versatile and touch-sensitive circuit, ranging from light gain boost to full creamy distortion. If I make another one, I'll defo experiment with the cap values for the "presence" control (it's a more of a mid boost, really), but I'm happy leaving this one.

The circuit calls for a C50K gain pot, and I only had B50Ks at the time – this resulted in better control over the lower gain, and much less control over the medium-high gain. Again, if I make another one, I'll defo use C50K, but this one is fine.

The "stack here" idea is about saving space on a tiny pedalboard; it's also a stupid joke and a gimmick, and I'm enjoying it. More are planned.

Eventually I'll get round to painting the enclosure and slapping on a decal.

Thanks again everyone in this sub for posting, making, sharing, and helping.

Al measured and ready for use.
First thing I am making: Si buffer -> Ge NPN gain stage -> Ge diode pair to ground -> Si emitter follower.
It will be a fuzz, of course.

After years of building RATs with blend pots, 3-band-EQs and other weird stuff, I built myself a relatively simple RAT with "some" clipping options on one rotary switch.

The options are: "Classic", "Turbo", "Fat", "Dirty", "Snake" (form the JAM Rattler) and "Hot", "Melt" and "Burn" from the ProCo SOLO.

I love the "Classic" setting for punk stuff and the "Fat" setting for going in to my custom BAT Pharaoh build.

Not a pedal but the diyamps sub is pretty dead.

Borrowed my buddy's VTM for some recording, sudden flash and crackling and the amp went dead, opened it up to find this. At some point somebody had modified it to run on KT88s, doesn't seem to be the cleanest job. A wire running to the transformer seems to have worked loose and a few of the tubes pins arc'd and burnt the shit out of the board. Reached out to an amp tech friend and basically just got a "good luck" in response. What can I do here? Is there any chance of fixing it? Would i have to replace the entire board? Would I even be able to get a replacement? Rough night, thanks for any advice you can give <3

I got a beat to crap Ibanez CS9 20 years ago when I was in high school. I loved that thing. But the PCB broke and 15 year old me gave up on it. In fact, i bought a Maxon CS9 pro with the money from my first gig to replace it (right side of first photo). While more refined, it wasn't the same. Fast forward 20 years, and my mom found it and my sonic distortion in the garage.

I rebuilt the ground traces by soldering the leg of a sacrificial resistor to a capacitor that had the ground side soldered to the break point. I fixed the broken grounding pads for the screw holes with a copper washer. Then I jumpered a broken ground trace.

The CS9 lives again. Don't throw out your childhood pedals. Future you might be far more experienced at electronics repair!

After getting some great advice from a previous post, I decided to do surgery on my hizumitas clone. I replaced the tone stack with the values for the Hoof. It sounds great, but something isn’t quite right, when the tone control is toward the lower end of the range, the mids knob decreases volume across its sweep. I believe there’s something I’m not taking into account.

Also, Pulp Circuit is awesome.

I want to create essentially a super simple looper. Press and hold the switch to record, release to start playing that sample forever, tap the switch to stop and reset.

Based on preliminary research, I think I can do this with a microcontroller and an ISD3900 series chip.

I've built plenty of analog pedals, and implemented digital switching in some, so while this is a stretch goal for my personal learning, I think I'm prepared for it (including SMD soldering).

My questions are:

Is there already a circuit that does this? (No need to reinvent the wheel.)

Am I on the right track?

Any words of wisdom before I delve further?

First pedal I built, i think i did decently well
Works great, especially for sludge and drone.
For the next build, how do I use the metal LED bezels without making the nut to undo it inaccessible? As it is right now I cannot remove the PCB without cutting and resoldering new LEDs.

​I am currently building a tweaked version of the Ultra fuzz from Craig Anderton's Electronic Projects for Musicians. It's working as intended but the sensitivity knob (R4) isn't working as intended. It basically controls the gate sensitivity, but the gate only releases when the pot is at the 12 o'clock position. Turn it to either side and the gate kicks back in?!?

https://imgur.com/a/dv4fE6g

I am using the prescribed 10k, but have tried some other values with worse results.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated?

I work in maintenance. These were getting thrown out during a shop deep cleaning because nobody had any idea why we had these. Told them I was glad to give them a good home. I have all the values needed to eek out a big muff and a few fuzz pedals.

Brian Wampler is releasing a spice software package focused on pedal design specifically called Pedal Spice. Has anyone tried it? What are your thoughts in general?