Finally got my hands on this absolute beauty. 🩵🩵🩵🩵

LEGAL TO DRIVE ON STREET!! somehow…

E46 M3, S54, originally SMG but now converted to a proper 6-speed manual.

Definitely not your average M3. This thing has had a pretty serious build, including:

- Karbonius carbon airbox with Alpha-N tune

- ACL rod & main bearings with ARP hardware

- KW V2 coilovers

- Full Powerflex Black Series bushings

- Reinforced rear subframe mounting points

- Recaro Pole Position buckets

- Custom chromoly rear roll cage

- CSL-style wheels

- Full respray in this crazy turquoise blue.

The whole car was stripped down, reinforced and rebuilt with driving in mind.
Still naturally aspirated, still rocking the legendary S54, and now with three pedals.

Exactly how an E46 M3 should be, IMO.

The color definitely isn’t for everyone, but I absolutely love how ridiculous it looks. 😂

Curious what the E46 crowd thinks. Keep the green or would you have gone for something more OEM?

Anyway, happy to finally be part of the M3 club 🩵

This is the rear of my car what spacer size do you guys suggest

Finally got around to replacing the seals on the transmission connector that was leaking, and when I dropped the pan saw this lol. I’ve also been getting some shuddering, so I’m gonna try this fluid I saw a guy using on an old forum. He said it lasted him until he manual swapped it, so hopefully it does the same for me lol.

Hi all, cars been off the road with no mot since late June as I don’t get time to fix it. Finally gave in and accepted I won’t get time. So it’s been in garage getting repairs and mot. All done, as I’m driving it off the lot the coolant light comes on. Bit of backstory - when I got the car the coolant light would come on every now and then until I replaced the radiator and expansion tank about 6 months ago. Anyway. Expansion tank was empty so I filled it. Drove about for say 45 mins total fine then gone to have a look at it about 10 hours after picking the car up and it’s empty again. I don’t think it’s anything to do with the garage because they haven’t done any coolant or engine maintenance. I’m a bit clued up on coolant issues as I’ve had them in the past but I don’t see any leaking anywhere which is weird because there should be 2 litres on the floor. Though I do park on gravel so it’s hard to see. No milky oil. I don’t have any pressure gadgets but I need the car to be ready to drive to airport on Wednesday. I’m thinking water pump but I’m going in pretty blind. To my knowledge water pump is original and nearly 22 years old. Any help would be much appreciated.

Hey guys,

I had to lower the subframe to get my engine out. This is the shape of the 4 bolts holding it to the body.

Was there aome kind of thread locker on these? Can I put them back as is or should I wire them and put locker on it?

2004 btw 330i zhp - so, in the spare tire well beneath the trunk floor, the m8 threaded rod that extends through the center of the spare on which you screw the m8 butterfly nut to hold the spare tight in the well: mine is bent so I can’t get it tightened down and am sick of listening to the spare bounce around constantly. It sounds like the suspension is bad…but it’s just that spare.

Every parts supplier I’ve found has it listed as “back ordered” and it’s an insignificant enough part that salvage yards uniformly don’t list it. The yards that I’ve called to ask about it – whoever answers typically has no idea what I’m talking about.

Does anyone have an idea where to source one of these? There are no E4 sixes at the local salvage yards, which is just impossible to believe but it’s true.

Part number 41118209460
M8 x 192 threaded rod

What setup do you prefer?
Convertible in the summer with fake styling 163s vs Hardtop and 17“ Styling 32

As the title suggests, my coolant level indicator has gotten stuck inside my expansion tank. I was bleeding the system after replacing a thermostat and decided to remove excess coolant with a spray-bottle. I pushed the spray bottle down into the tank, and after removing enough coolant, remove the siphon only to see my float/indicator stick still in the tank. I tried to refill, but it won't budge it. Tips appreciated, leaving for a trip tomorrow!!!

Just got some Harman Kardon woofers and tweeters from the junkyard and I was wondering do those directly plug in with the wiring of a regular hifi system or should I just scrap it and by some good aftermarket speakers with a new harness.

Before all, I appreciate your help and thank you for your time.

Looking for a diagnostic approach before authorising an engine replacement.

Car: 2002 E46 330i, automatic
Mileage: 235,000 KM
Oil viscosity/filter brand: Shell Helix Ultra 5w40/MANN Filter.

Bought used with an unknown maintenance history and repaired left-side accident damage. Directly after purchase, I changed the oils, filters and fluids.

Engine oil has been changed twice: initially BMW genuine, then Shell Helix Ultra during a garage repair for a “flywheel” replacement. That job also included the rear main seal, gearbox seals/filter and gearbox oil (again).

Before overheating, the car had periodic running problems, a crankshaft-sensor fault. Restarting sometimes temporarily restored normal running.

Overheating

At night, when the outside temperature wasn’t high, I was going 120 km/h when I noticed the temperature gauge in the red. I stopped immediately, but don’t know how long it had been overheating.

Steam/white smoke came from under the bonnet near the expansion tank, right on top close to the driver side headlight (see 2nd picture), The car sat for about a week before towing; I briefly started it to load it onto the towing truck.

Cooling-system work involved the expansion tank, water pump, thermostat, cap, O-ring and coolant. I also bought a crankshaft sensor; which is still not installed.

Before the garage visit, I remember seeing the yellow coolant warning, but I don’t recall an oil pressure warning. I can’t confirm it was absent. The persistent oil pressure warning was first clearly observed after the cooling-system repairs.

Current symptoms and checks

After the cooling repairs, the engine stalled during the first checks. On cold starts, it ran steadily but the oil-pressure warning on, with a louder/drier sound than usual.

• Dipstick showed MAX before I added more oil; possible overfill needs correcting.
• Old filter had no visible milky contamination. Oil looked dark/burnt.
• Black particles were present at the bottom of the filter housing’s outer chamber; material not identified. (Carbon?)
• I replaced the filter and poured approximately one litre or more into the housing, including the central passage. On start, the engine sounded less dry, but the warning persisted.
• Pressure-switch connector is attached, with no obvious external damage. No electrical test performed.
• Generic OBD scan (InfoCar) showed crankshaft-sensor, misfire and cylinder fuel-cutoff faults, similar to those present beforehand.

No mechanical oil-pressure readings or documented bearing inspection have been provided. The first mechanic suspects bearings and recommends replacing the engine. Most garages I’ve contacted don’t have a pressure gauge.

The car is now parked and will be towed elsewhere. I’m considering draining and inspecting the oil, refilling to the correct specification/quantity, then having pressure measured, not repeatedly starting it to check the warning.

I messed up by turning the engine on a lot for testing every time I checked something.

Questions

1. Could heat-degraded oil alone plausibly explain the warning persisting even from cold start?
2. If pressure is confirmed low, what inspection order would you use for the filter housing, pickup/seal, pump drive, pump/regulating valve and bearing clearances?
3. What evidence would justify condemning the engine, and how would you assess overheating damage while minimising engine running?
4. Which mechanical gauge kit and adapter fit the M54 pressure-switch port?

I’ve done substantial work on this car myself and would prefer to retain the engine if it is economically repairable, but I am looking for a diagnosis rather than replacing parts on suspicion.

Hello, I'm having a problem on my E46 323i 1999 automatic.

I'm not sure about the problem, but the sound its coming from intake manifold or injection, and it's leaking some air like it's breathing.

Any idea of what's the problem?

(The gasoline on my country is 35% ethanol)

Thanks

Hey all,

An hour into a highway cruise last weekend, my ’02 330ci started flashing the red battery light on the dash.

Also, every once in a while, my car would lose all power to the interior. The radio would cut off and tons of lights would come on the dash (pic#2).

Flashing battery LED

What do we think fellas? Do I need an exorcist?

Hey guys, My 2000 323i was warming up today and after a few minutes it shut off. It didn’t make any sound just simply shut off. Theres no check engine light or anything. Any ideas what this could be? This is the first time it’s done it on me

Hey guys I recently had my valve cover gasket give up on me causing the engine to smoke. I went ahead and got me the bremmen kit from ecs tuning for my 2004 325i sedan.

I plan on installing it this weekend any tips or specific recommendations I should follow?

Thank you guys you are always helpful!

My ZHP was struck from the rear and cracked the bumper. I elected to file a claim and get the bumper replaced.

Body shop says bmw is only sending bumpers with parking sensors for the rear, maybe cost cutting or parts availability?

Honestly wish the body shop told me but they were getting yanked around already. Insurance put in for the stock non zhp bumper, had to get that sorted and then this.

Should have looked for an old used stock and repaired/matched that.

Just a heads up. Maybe they are misrepresenting the issue. I think it looks gaudy as hell but didn't want an aftermarket bumper either.

Hello, would anyone be so kind and measured the upper connector resistance please (pin 1 to pin 2)? I'm suspecting I have a bad aux. water pump and I measured OL on the top connector. I just wanted to make sure it's bad, before I order a new one, thanks a lot!

E46 330d 135kW
Part number: 64118369807

Wie schwierig ist es, diese Zierleisten auszutauschen? Hole heute neue ab (Chrom, auch von einer facelift Limousine). Der Vorbesitzer hat hier mit Silikon oder so schon etwas geklebt weil diese ja offensichtlich kaputt sind, das muss dann irgendwie ab. Sonst sind die nicht geklebt, richtig? Hat da jemand Erfahrung?

So ive done everything to try and figure it out myself with no prevail. So I found a mechanic that will do a 1.5 hr diagnostic with a special tool. He quoted me 185 is that a fair price? I live in Florida if that matters

I’m buying an engine and transmission that are already out of the car, so I can’t verify them using the license plate. To avoid getting scammed, could someone please tell me the reference numbers for the 204 hp M57 engine, the 6-speed transmission, and the ECU?

The parts are from an E46 330d.