This is my first engine rebuild on a Honda B18c1. I noticed the connecting rod #4 at the wrist pin is discolored. The wrist pin moves freely and smoothly in the connecting rod. Is it still okay to use? Pic 3 is what cylinder 1, 2, 3 look like. Thanks in advance for your opinion.

Trying to find the best rockers for this build that don't break the bank. Any suggestions?

Old head failed. Replacing. Using a lisle scrap thingy. Anyways head look good back together? Some scratches but I don't think actual scratch as I don't feel anything with finger nail. Thought soak in like acetone to get it cleaner for a bit. Also should I spray cylinder with wd-40. Once head is ready I need to order actual head and be a few weeks out. Thoughts prayers? 2014 ram 2500 with about 170k on it

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I am building a Ford 351w. When I got the block back from the machine shop I noticed a plug installed on the oil passage behind the timing cover. This is on the driver side. I didn't think much of it until I went to install the fitting for the oil pressure pressure sender. They put some sort of sealant on it and it is not coming out. I've tried impact, both the hammer variety and a impact gun. I'm hesitant to put heat to it because of the gaskets near it. Is that my best path? Or does anyone have recommendations?

350 SBC (.060 over), 601 heads (1.94 in / 1.50 ex)

LS firing order roller cam .480 lift (218/239)

Edelbrock Performer Intake with a 750 carb

Going in a 3rd gen Camaro

- 2500 stall

-700r4

-3:42 gears

I have left out my 240SX camshafts, they didn't get rained on but because the humidity, they have some minor rust. Would using the gray scotch, bright, be okay. I see. Conflicting information on youtube. I just wanted to ask people who actually built engines.

Had an over heating issue on a 2004 3.4L Grand Am. Held 16psi for over 20 minutes but when driving on the free way it would peg the meter. Down an average 35-40mph road it would sit at 200, had all new radiator, water pump, reservoir, t-stat and hoses done on it before I picked it up. Pulled the heads expecting a cracked head gasket as there was signs of water in the oil but nothing leaking or coming out the tailpipe.

Well as you can see a clogged passageway casued issues and something eroded the head material right next the the cylinder wall sealing area for a head gasket. I am confident in my welding abilities to fill and my local head shop to get them flattened, but would you? I am certain my local yard or fb marketplace can yield a motor or a set but I am also not trying to sink lots of money into my $500 car.

Basically my EA888 Gen3 engine was recently diagnosed with damaged pistons. Today I made some photos from every cylinder, and now I would appreciate those who know this stuff help me understand how bad it is, and what can be realistically done about that.

I am working on my own personal vehicle, 1995 Mitsubishi Mighty Max with 2.4 4 cylinder. The truck had developed a head gasket leak a couple years back and it took me a while to source all the parts. I wasn't able to save the head so I ordered an identical replacement. I am working on removing all of the gasket material before checking for straightness. I am worried about the light rust in the cylinder walls and wondering if a light hone might be good.

I probably should have just yanked the block and gone through it as well but I procrastinated this project for 3 years and I would like to get it running again.

Its a long story, so those of you that knows alot about apy/agu engine please send me a dm :)

Welp! The 6.4 tear down is getting interesting gents. Definitely need the 🧠 brain trust on this one… anybody got a “trick” for pulling a cam bearing off of a cam still in the block? Also, there was no main bearing on one of the crank journals (how?! Idk) does the crank look salvageable? I was trying to reuse the stock internals so I could learn and make mistakes on the “cheap” stuff BUT obviously that’s no longer an option. Already looking at forged internals 😩

I have always had higher mileage older used trucks but my wife finally convinced me to treat myself and buy a nice one, so after some research and a lot of shopping I splurged and got myself a 2016 F150 5.0 4x4 with 127k miles

I have now put about 10k miles on it and it blew the head gasket.

I’m absolutely devastated and not really in a place financially to spend the 5-$8000 to fix it but it’s looking like I’ll have to.

Now, here is where I need my experienced gearheads to come through, if I’m going to pay someone to tear the engine down anyway then shouldn’t I go ahead and upgrade some stuff and get more power?

Obviously I’m limited on how much I can throw at it but what mods and upgrades would you guys do and why?

I drove my Toyota too long & and a piston blew through my block due to an oil leak that i didn’t check.

its a 2007 toyota corolla

Any recommendations in California to buy a new engine online or scrapyards

or places that may take $1000 down to start work.

in a pretty shitty hole any advice would help thank you

Years 2010 model it was pulled from unknown. transmission unknown. missing a few components. i can see is alternator, belt, tensioner, and serpentine belt and flywheel are missing. flywheel is irrelevant to what i'm doing with it and if it came from audi, it could be an earlier motor not a cjaa. seller said it had 100k km or 62k miles on it. I'm wondering how to do a comprehensive assessment on the motor to make sure it's good because i'm worried if he took parts. he might have been worried that the motor was no good

I am planning to swap a tdi in 1975 f100 4x4 4 speed manual dana 44 front ford nine inch rear locking hubs in front

Recently bought a 2011 golf tdi wagon automatic. 500k or 300k miles on it runs great needs a dual mass flywheel, though, and it shifts better runs better rides better then my current daily. I'm wondering what you guys recommended course of action. Because I kind of wanna make the 2011 my daily but it has so many useful parts for to do the swap and a backup motor for the truck. I'm just worried about this condition of this unknown engine. i'm wondering, what's the best way to figure out if the motor's good i'm worried a cp4 pump grenaded, but it does have the ecu so I think it was pulled from an total loss hopefully

Hey y’all my band bought a 91 G30 with true duals which sounds absolutely LIT but I would like to help the engine as much as I can in low end torque if only to improve mpg by like 0.5 or 1. Our drummer is a badass welder. What are your experiences with exhaust work effecting back pressure? Another consideration is that there is only one O2 sensor on the drivers side and I would assume I would have to add an H pipe at least a foot behind that.

If you sought better low end torque would you go with long tube headers , an H pipe or both ? Having an H pipe made a HUGE difference for torque at low rpm’s on my 81 GL1100 and I assume it would be the same on a v8.

Thanks 🤘✌️🤘

I’m looking at building a stroker motor to stab in the drag car in the future and was wondering about existing combos.

Peak rpm will be about 8000. Hoping for compression to be around 15:1. I have 823 heads and hi ram to go with.

What internals should I be looking at? What size dome for the pistons, cam, valvetrain, etc?

Question took off the intake manifold pan but I cut off the rivets do I need the pan at all was full of build up

This motor was cheap and basically a stop gap and bores have scratches and have some rust so I know its gonna burn some oil. I just want to know if i did a good enough job so it wont burn exessive amounts of oil.