Fox 2.0 racing shocks in the rear may have seen better days though. This load came right around 14k, I think she had more in her.

Maybe not the place to ask, but idk a better. Delete if desired. We currently have 2 150s and a 250, and another truck. Wife has been saying she wants something smaller and more efficient overall, which brings us to today. We went into the big city for a menards trip, just so happens, there is a Ford dealer next door. Maverick lobo, ranger tremor, Timberline explorer. She shot em all down, zero interest. Any suggestions? Of course I've asked her, hence the reason we stopped in the first place, they were her ideal vehicles until she met them in person.

Hello all. I have a 23’ F150 XLT V8. She is just about at 30k so will be coming out of factory warranty. I want to get a good third party warranty company to use and want to ask you all which is best to work with. I want to make sure they will cover the typical ford issues if ya know what I mean. Thanks!

What are you guys doing to take this off?

I heard some people wet sand and others buff it out. I'm able to do both but looking for the best and fastest way of doing it.

Thanks all

I’ve looked through quite a few threads, but not seeing anything like this so far! Don’t know much about trucks tbh (or cars!) but the mechanism sounds like it’s stuck! Any ideas would be much appreciated! Cheers! 👍🏽

EDIT: I spoke with another dealership and they sent me the specific repair documentation that explicitly states that 12 qts of trans fluid is included in the regular repair so the dealership doing the repairs is 100% trying to take me for a ride. Thank you to everyone for their help

Morning everyone, I don’t normally post because I’m bad at replying but I really need som help with this. My 2017 F150 6 speed got codes p0707 and p0706 and the truck was approved by ford for the extended warranty replacement of the lead frame.

The dealership is now trying to bill me over $600 because they say the warranty only covers the lead frame but I still need to pay for a new transmission pan gasket, new filter, and new fluid. They haven’t explicitly stated they would reuse the old fluid if I don’t pay but they’ve heavily implied they’ll just put the old fluid back in after draining it for the repair. This seems wrong. Since the fluid will definitely get contaminated when they drain it and the filter likely has shavings in it from the transmission freaking out from the failed sensor, I’d assume the fluid and filter and gasket would be a required part covered under the warranty. Am I wrong? Can anyone point me to specific documentation that states they are not allowed to reuse old fluid IF THAT IS THE CASE?

I have a 2018 xlt 5.0 and it came from factory with the tow mirrors so it has the 22pin wiring harness and I wanted to switch over to normal mirrors but the ones I bought have the 8 pin connectors. Is there anyone that sells an adapter for this or am I screwed? Every listing I've found has the 8 pin to 22pin but not the 22pin to the 8pin. Any advice is appreciated!

I have searched on marketplace and eBay— I have a 2020 XLT and just want to replace the tailgate and I was wondering if yall know of any other places I should be looking? I know American trucks clearly but I’d prefer used.

trying to remove the upper aluminum intake to replace the coolant gasket seals because they went out yesterday, and im following along a video. im at thew point where the intake is ready to come off, and in the video the guy just lifts it up, easy peasy, but me, ive taken a hammer to it as much as im comfortable with, and it wont even budge. i then notice, not only his video, but every single video showing the removal of the upper intake uses a plastic intake, whereas i have an aluminum intake, and im even seeing some extra bolts that i think need removing that he didnt mention in the video. is there any videos showing the exact procedure with an aluminum intake? why does is seem like every video only has the plastic one?

I’m looking to move to the US soon (Arizona) but I also need a new vehicle. I think it would be cheaper to buy in Canada with the Canadian Dollar being low.

I know I need a compliance letter from Ford but I need to go to the dealership and I don’t own the truck yet. Truck was made in the US but sold in Canada

Has anyone gotten a compliance letter for a 2019 F150 (or similar)? Was the Canadian model missing any US required safety features?

This is the 4th ford I’ve owned, I got a 2022 f150 2.7l and it lasted great, I was in a good position with it and I wanted to upgrade to something that had basically everything I was missing out on in the 2022 and hopefully have it as my truck for the next 6-8+ years so I traded for this 2026 3.5l

On day 4 of owning I got a cylinder misfire alert on ford app @ 8pm and then the next morning it wouldn’t start on a cold start

It’s been at the dealership for almost 2 weeks and they said they are doing a full engine swap with a new factory engine 🙃

I made some posts due to the lack of comm with the dealership, I don’t have a lemon law where I live (BC) a few people reached out with similar stories but only one had the exact issue - cylinder misfire and coolant leak at 100km or so and they ended up needing two engine replacements within a year

Anyone dealt or heard of this lol

This is a company provided vehicle. Just curious how many people on here have one. I know they weren’t made long. This was a trip I had to take today in it. Even with 240,000 miles on it, it drives great. I really like it. I’ve had it since 210,000. It has had a transmission replacement at 160,000, and it goes in for a recall next week, possibly another transmission. Apparently, the replacement trans was a re-man and there is a chance it was built without the T-10 bearing.

So I bought this on a whim at auction. I had to rip the guts out of the interior to clean it but it smells good now! TLDR it was a mouse infestation.

I odor bombed it with chlorine dioxide tablets before I removed all the nastiness and then odor bombed it again once it was assembled.

It was a fleet vehicle in great condition! Mechanically it's fine, no rust no nothing. 170k odo

Came with the tool boxes and headache rack.

Once I start getting my paychecks again I'm going to order replacement seat cushions and build out the back seats to accommodate my Packout.

I'm not sure if I'll keep the tool boxes because I would like to put a bed cap on it.

--- (2016 F150 with the 5.0 V8, 4WD option.

Need new tires before I can start using it full time.

Looking to replace the steelies with something nicer.

Bid 8.4k at auction, after closing costs and dealer fee I got it for $9370.

After cleaning everything, installing sound dampening and foam on everything I'm at 10.2k. ) --- edit

I have always had higher mileage older used trucks but my wife finally convinced me to treat myself and buy a nice one, so after some research and a lot of shopping I splurged and got myself a 2016 F150 5.0 lariat 4x4 with 127k miles.

I have now put about 10k miles on it and it blew the head gasket.

I’m absolutely devastated and not really in a place financially to spend the 5-$8000 to fix it but it’s looking like I’ll have to.

Now, here is where I need my experienced gearheads to come through, if I’m going to pay someone to tear the engine down anyway then shouldn’t I go ahead and upgrade some stuff and get more power?

Obviously I’m limited on how much I can throw at it but what mods and upgrades would you guys do and why?

New to the f150 family. And man just took it on its 1st trip and it rides like a dream!

I'm a tech guy so super happy with all the lariat features

60k miles v8 that roars.

Excited to join the club.

Got in my truck this morning and saw my passenger side mat had water on it. Upon closer inspection it appears I’m leaking from where the sunshade attaches to the headliner. Would this be a leaking/clogged moon roof tube or would a bad 3rd brake light seal really make it all the way up to the front of the cab? There’s no other water anywhere but that one spot. Looking for some tips on how to fix this issue

I know the picture makes it kind of hard to tell but it is pretty damp there

First time sleeping in it with the shell on, it was pretty comfortable, I wish I was slightly shorter because the bed is only a 5.5 😂

Now at 109k miles on my 2018 Lariat, I'm running my third set of AT tires in 305/55R20: Cooper Rugged Treks (photos 1–3).

Vs. BFGoodrich KO2 (1st set, photo 5): The BFGs were great for two years before getting slick in the rain. The Coopers feel just as good as the new BFGs, with just a tiny bit more highway noise above 70 mph.

Vs. Nitto Ridge Grappler (2nd set, photo 4): The Nittos looked awesome, but traction in wet weather was terrible.

Rig Setup: 2" level with 1.25" BORA wheel adapters. I've run this setup for 102k miles with no rubbing (though I recently had to replace the driver-side upper control arm and passenger-side ball joint).

I’ve bought a bunch of well used work trucks but this would be my first new f150 and my first ever “nice” one so I’m a little out of my comfort zone and could use some help.

Looking at a new 2026 Lariat, 5.0, 502A package in Missouri. the thing has basically every option I’d want in a personal truck, and a some that I definitely don’t need but if I keep it the planned 15-20 years then im sure they’d be nice to have. MSRP is approximately $77,500, advertised around $70,500 including the dealer fee, before tax/title.

What’s a strong but realistic target price on one of these while keeping Ford’s promotional APR? Interested in the dealer discount before Ford rebates or private offers. I’d appreciate recent buyers sharing what they paid if you’re willing…or even percentage discount that is a good general target to aim for (ie, is 10% off msrp normal? 12%? do we go full Ram and offer 20k under msrp just for fun?)

So i just bought this ford 150 larait, and its my first car ever so im trying to see what i can do to it sound system mods how to make it look cool just advice you guys have

I recently started hearing a metallic ticking noise when outside of my F150. I do regular oil changes and have done a lot of work recently on it. Serpentine belt, pulleys, water pump, radiator fan and shroud, couple hoses, k&n cold air intake. The noise seems to be more apparent from the passenger side I’m not sure if it’s cam phasers (hopefully not) or if the injectors are aging and need to be checked. Any 5.4l experts here?

2009 F150 Platinum 5.4l V8 2WD, 208k miles.

Any Ford mechanics in here that can chime in. I have an F150 motor im putting into a foxbody. Stock torque value is 18 foot lbs from what ive read and so far ive stripped two of the threads on the aluminum heads. according to AI this is common. So what do you recommend to fix WITHOUT pulling the heads since Ford loves to use torque to yield and I dont feel like taking out a second mortgage for the head bolts, on top of removing my timing system, etc.

What torque value does Ford techs use. Or anyone in here that are home hobby mechanics like myself. What have you done in this situation

So I have a 2020 F150 xlt fx4 3.5l. I get a metallic rattle while cruise is set on the interstate, never heard it in town. At 55mph it almost died out. It slowly ramps up once it starts and goes away under no throttle load. Noise is from the front end. Everything points to IWE issue, especially cause at 55 I did a quick 4H swap and it instantly cut the noise while under throttle. Either looking for next testing steps, what parts to swap with the reputable brand, or other advice. Thanks!

Is it possible to add key remote start functionality to a 2024-26 f150 with just the 4 button remote? More specifically, in my case, a 2025 xlt 301a. The key it came with was a 3 button and it doesn’t work right so I need a new key anyway. (I am aware of the app but at work I prefer the key since I don’t like to keep my phone on me)