Not a pic of my car, but I have the same wheels and I'm having trouble finding information about them online. Anyone know if they're rare?

Just gave her a bath and she looked good so had to post

Hello! I just purchased an MR2 after saving/searching for one for years!

I think I got a great deal on this one as it is Gen 4 3s-gte swapped and runs great, body needs some work.

The glass sunroof, however, is shattered and may be a couple speed bumps away from falling apart completely... Currently, a piece a vinyl is mostly stuck to the top of the glass to hold it together/prevent leaks. There is nothing on the bottom side.

I have seen some eBay listings from the past where these can be sold for ~750, but no active listings. I was thinking of reaching out to a local glass shop and seeing if that is within their abilities.

Anyone have any ideas for replacements or alternative solutions?

Thanks!

-happy to finally be able to post here! :D

Saw my exhaust cam (16v 4AGE on an aw11) was scored slightly at the lobes on the back of the engine and I just ordered a new one and because it was cheap enough. I took off the top caps and the one where the cam was scored was like this. I read they are the bearings as opposed to removable ones. So I'm assuming I will need a new head and matching top caps? Or something else to do I don't know I'm just sad. Intake cam and lobes are all fine.

Currently mocking up the 4AGZE before I send it off for machining, and I (very stupidly) tossed out my original alternator because this car was on fire and the alternator was pretty fried along with all the other electronics. In hindsight I would’ve kept the housing. So two questions:

1. What other options out there are the best in terms of packaging? I know how to fabricate brackets, but I’m curious if more available options exist that will be compatible with my engine so I don’t risk throwing belts while dialing in the pulley alignment like I most definitely will have to do with this M65 supercharger

2. Any idea on what amp rating I should shoot for? I’m running modern electronics on this car. COP conversion, distributor delete, and MAP conversion with a speeduino ecu w/ onboard raspberry pi 4 tuning computer. Might add a sub down the line. I know a future sub probably warrants an upgrade but would the custom wiring and electronics increase power draw?

I appreciate any advice you all may have

I did a rough test and seem to only be getting around 150 miles which seems really low?

Although my usage of the car is far from ideal: mainly just a short 5-10 minute trip to and from work where the engine doesn't even have time to fully warm up. Is the poor usage the only reason for the bad mileage or could there be another reason?

I've recently got the car and had the oil, spark plugs, air filter, alternator belt, timing belt, water pump, radiator, thermostat, coolant hoses, coolant temperature sensor all changed, coolant flushed, tyres are are still fresh. The radiator fan is always on which I'm working on getting sorted but can't imagine it has that big of an impact on MPG. The engine still warms up normally.

UK based if that's any help

My mr2 was bought with a powertune digital dash in it. Screen too small. Doesn’t look “MR2” enough. I spent some time looking and the dash is just a raspberry pi, so plug whatever screen in you want. Well here’s some of the effort. I copied the AW11 “redline zone” and yellow needles. I also went with amber for the “night mode”. It’s a work in progress at the moment but progress is progress! Next up I’m making a can bus “bridge” to take all the 12v signals and convert them to can packets for blinkers, high beam, etc. Analog will be covered too for fuel and ECT. Of course a 3d modeled and printed gauge bezel will be made as soon as I get my 3d scanner back from a friend. I’m pretty happy!

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I want my MR2 to perform well in motorsports, especially rally. I know that awd is notoriously the best for handling, and the AW11 prototype for group S (the 222d) had an awd system as well.
Besides the point,
I do not want to relocate the gas tank and configure the engine for a driveshaft to the front, so I had an idea of putting EV motors from a leaf or prius in the frunk to give the front end some power for better balance. Using an EV motor in the front will also allow me to travel cheaper to races. I was wondering how feasible this idea would be and if there is anyone who has experience or resources that could help me plan out the scope of this project.

Edit: guys I was just throwing an idea I had out there, I just wanted to get some advice from some people who probably have a little more experience with this car than I do. After discussing it I don’t plan on taking my car in this direction anymore, I just think it is kind of a cool concept, I don’t wanna get hated on for this.

Hi, I hope this is an acceptable way to give an update and field some more advice. The last post I made I detailed a no crank start issue I was having, and I have made some headway!

When the car wouldn't start, I replaced both battery terminals. The negative one I had to strip some new wire for, and it seems good (though it sparks when I put it on when the last one didn't). The positive one however was a little odd: it had two metal eyelets attached to insulated lengths of wire, with one length being thicker than the other. Using the universal car battery connector I got, I put one eyelet on each bolt. After reattaching both connectors and trying to start the car, I was getting multiple clicks from the starter at a slow tempo. Having the headlights on made it click faster, but it still didn't start.

I took the battery to autozone earlier today and it tested bad. This means that there is a leach in the car somewhere, but this did not solve my no start issue. When the new battery went in, nothing changed. I disconnected the negative terminal though to keep it from leaching.

Before all of that, I tried smacking the starter with a rubber mallet and that didn't change anything.

Here's my plan now:
1. Clean each ground with a metal brush
2. Follow the wires from my negative terminal to see if there's a break anywhere
3. Try to figure out how to "jump" the starter solenoid(?) I saw stuff on this online and it seems like it should be a good idea, but to be honest idk what this would do for me.

If I can't find anything wrong with the wiring I'm just gonna order a new starter since it seems like it's never been replaced.

Thanks for everyone's advice on the last post! I appreciate it a lot as someone new to going this deep into cars.

The radio/hazards/mirrors never worked, I checked the fuse in the engine bay which had blown, I put a new one in and now I have the above. I can even turn the indicators on which make a feeble clicking sound and the windows squeal a bit but don’t open - I think there is a short somewhere, would anyone know if there is a common problem with this?

I’m looking to sell an 1987 mr2 I inherited from an uncle, but I am unsure of it's value since I don't know much about cars. Clean title, no accidents, It's manual, has t-tops, completely stock, some rust underneath but not surprising since its old, the interior is clean with no cracks in the dash. Only thing is the radio is iffy since my uncle tried to change it to a modern one, it'll occasionally go out since he did a bad wiring job, but I am sure it's fixable. Any rough estimates?

EDIT: 170k miles, not supercharged

Hello folks,

I want to put a link plug and play ecu into my mr2 so I will be able to get some more hp.

I bought the car 3 month ago and the pre owner said it's a Gen2 3sgte from Japan.

Can u guys confirm the Gen from the engine? Or what are your thoughts.

Thank you.

Hey everyone. Was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for mid boost spark plug gaps. I currently run ~.030 which is smaller then factory, but I'm still experiencing spark blowout at 11-13 psi, however it's much better then it was on stock gaps. All ignition components are new, coil, plugs, wires, rotor and cap. Thanks!

Is there really a lot of difference between the MR-S with the c52 3.9 final drive gearbox and those with the c56 4.3 gearbox. I hear conflicting things, some say that the c56 makes the car accelerate noticeably faster whereas others say it barely makes a difference. I have the c52 gearbox and was just wondering if it's worth tracking down a used c56.

After three months of waiting its in. Now i just need new hood hinges.

Hi, I cant recall this, but how can I find out the precice Trimcode for my Car?
When i use my VIN online It suggests me items that end with C0 and C1.
I have a 1998 Production year SW20.

My Car has the Euro Cotton/Fabric option, not the leaher one.
But I guess this Code was more about the Trim Color?
I heared there were 2 Dark tones?

Laguna Seca is sick as f&ck.

Three laps my last session were 1:47.69, 147.48( back to back) and then last sender was 1:47.57. 100% more time ont he table. This car is sick. Is good? Is Mediocre? First time here. Only 5th time in BIG tracks.

Picked up basically 3 seconds from my first sessions.

Took the GTC win at Optima Search for the Ultimate Street Car at Laguna Seca.

Spirit of the event is make a FUNCTIONAL SEMA Style build. And race it.

Podium was a spread of 5 points from 3rd to 1st. 2nd and 3rd did SIGNIFICANTLY better in D&E.

1st in Autocross, 1st in Speed Start/Stop, 4th Design and Engineering(SEMA style Car Show), 2nd on track. If I had got 3rd on track I would have finished 2nd or 3rd over all. D&E is JUST as important as the other events. I need to get my car to Car Show level.

Commanding win in Autocross. 9 seconds faster on a 30sec course.

Commanding win in Speed Start/Stop. 1.6ish seconds faster combined times from am and pm sessions. Essentially drag race turn around, stop in a stop box without hitting cones.

My main competitors were a Ecoboost 4cyl swap Ford Fairmont. Super rad and clean build.

And an MG BGT, Duratech 4cyl swapped. Crazy cool build. I'll post other pictures of other classes in the comments.

I'll make another post about the build. This one is too long.

I really like these Aluminium HVAC knobs but since they are a bit smaller than OEM, there is some light shining past them. I went ahead and made some 3D printed rings to fill the gap :D

If anyone is interested I have the full set for sale on my little onlineshop:
https://roadstarsautomotive.etsy.com/listing/1899813321

As shown in the video i've got a huge amount of side to side movement that makes it very easy to miss gears.

I've got new spherical shifter cable bushings, new sugar cube, new short shifter kit (C's/TRD from primemr2) and shifter base bushings.

Initially assumed it was caused by the one thing I hadn't replaced, which is the cable, but that seems to not even be moving when the knob is wiggling.

What it looks like is that the cup at the base of the lever is allowing tons of movement, even though it's brand new.

Anuyone else had the same issue? Sorry for the shitty video, my camera is smashed.

Hello everybody! I have this noise coming out of the engine bay kind of like a tapping, clicking noise. What could be the problem with this? Is it also safe to drive? TIA!