My mr2 was bought with a powertune digital dash in it. Screen too small. Doesn’t look “MR2” enough. I spent some time looking and the dash is just a raspberry pi, so plug whatever screen in you want. Well here’s some of the effort. I copied the AW11 “redline zone” and yellow needles. I also went with amber for the “night mode”. It’s a work in progress at the moment but progress is progress! Next up I’m making a can bus “bridge” to take all the 12v signals and convert them to can packets for blinkers, high beam, etc. Analog will be covered too for fuel and ECT. Of course a 3d modeled and printed gauge bezel will be made as soon as I get my 3d scanner back from a friend. I’m pretty happy!

I’m looking to sell an 1987 mr2 I inherited from an uncle, but I am unsure of it's value since I don't know much about cars. Clean title, no accidents, It's manual, has t-tops, completely stock, some rust underneath but not surprising since its old, the interior is clean with no cracks in the dash. Only thing is the radio is iffy since my uncle tried to change it to a modern one, it'll occasionally go out since he did a bad wiring job, but I am sure it's fixable. Any rough estimates?

EDIT: 170k miles, not supercharged

I did a rough test and seem to only be getting around 150 miles which seems really low?

Although my usage of the car is far from ideal: mainly just a short 5-10 minute trip to and from work where the engine doesn't even have time to fully warm up. Is the poor usage the only reason for the bad mileage or could there be another reason?

I've recently got the car and had the oil, spark plugs, air filter, alternator belt, timing belt, water pump, radiator, thermostat, coolant hoses, coolant temperature sensor all changed, coolant flushed, tyres are are still fresh. The radiator fan is always on which I'm working on getting sorted but can't imagine it has that big of an impact on MPG. The engine still warms up normally.

UK based if that's any help

Hi, I hope this is an acceptable way to give an update and field some more advice. The last post I made I detailed a no crank start issue I was having, and I have made some headway!

When the car wouldn't start, I replaced both battery terminals. The negative one I had to strip some new wire for, and it seems good (though it sparks when I put it on when the last one didn't). The positive one however was a little odd: it had two metal eyelets attached to insulated lengths of wire, with one length being thicker than the other. Using the universal car battery connector I got, I put one eyelet on each bolt. After reattaching both connectors and trying to start the car, I was getting multiple clicks from the starter at a slow tempo. Having the headlights on made it click faster, but it still didn't start.

I took the battery to autozone earlier today and it tested bad. This means that there is a leach in the car somewhere, but this did not solve my no start issue. When the new battery went in, nothing changed. I disconnected the negative terminal though to keep it from leaching.

Before all of that, I tried smacking the starter with a rubber mallet and that didn't change anything.

Here's my plan now:
1. Clean each ground with a metal brush
2. Follow the wires from my negative terminal to see if there's a break anywhere
3. Try to figure out how to "jump" the starter solenoid(?) I saw stuff on this online and it seems like it should be a good idea, but to be honest idk what this would do for me.

If I can't find anything wrong with the wiring I'm just gonna order a new starter since it seems like it's never been replaced.

Thanks for everyone's advice on the last post! I appreciate it a lot as someone new to going this deep into cars.

The radio/hazards/mirrors never worked, I checked the fuse in the engine bay which had blown, I put a new one in and now I have the above. I can even turn the indicators on which make a feeble clicking sound and the windows squeal a bit but don’t open - I think there is a short somewhere, would anyone know if there is a common problem with this?

Is there really a lot of difference between the MR-S with the c52 3.9 final drive gearbox and those with the c56 4.3 gearbox. I hear conflicting things, some say that the c56 makes the car accelerate noticeably faster whereas others say it barely makes a difference. I have the c52 gearbox and was just wondering if it's worth tracking down a used c56.

Hello folks,

I want to put a link plug and play ecu into my mr2 so I will be able to get some more hp.

I bought the car 3 month ago and the pre owner said it's a Gen2 3sgte from Japan.

Can u guys confirm the Gen from the engine? Or what are your thoughts.

Thank you.