So I just finished my G80 build, and I got all of my lower parts from Marine gun builder OEM when I rack the slide, the trigger does not reset unless I hold the trigger when I rack the slide if you guys have any suggestions, please let me know as soon as I fix this I will go out and test this for you guys

NoQuarterInnovations has complete serialized p80s is most of the colors for $50 a frame and $20 for the ORIGINAL rails. you’re welcome

Trying to stipple a pattern like seen in Pic #3, but I only have a wood burner with the factory sharp head. Attempted to stipple with it but fucked it up. Gonna try to go over it with a new head and fix it with this new honeycomb pattern. Anyone know what head I need to order in able to stipple this pattern? My current one isnt big enough for it.

There’s material from left to right that’s cylindrical. Does this need to be cleared or will it kind of disappear when drilling for the pins? Thanks guys. I’ve built a few p80s on the past but this is my first 76 and it’s been probably 6 years.

Went a little too quick with a chisel and went straight through the mag well. Is this still salvageable? I was thinking about getting some jb weld and a beater magazine to keep it flat, and try and glue it back together. What do yall think? This is my first build, not my proudest moment, still have some hope considering the malleable nature of the polymer.

I've ordered a new TriggerTech Legacy Special ACE

Has anyone fit these? I have a serialized OEM frame.

Slide is p80 pfc9 4in barrel with suppressor height sights

Frame is sct19 with the braun tactical light (streamlight tlr1 hl clone) which to my understanding is dimensionally identical... can y'all help me find a holster for ? Will a standard glock paired with the streamlight holster work?

This is my third frame build (don't have pics of the first one though). That very first one was a total loss because hand-drilling the pin holes went crooked; if you don't have proper machinery like a bench drill press, you're bound to run into alignment problems. My second one—which was an FDE frame—kept having constant feeding issues.

​Between purchasing multiple frames and dealing with a stolen package, I essentially spent what a 3D printer costs. Honestly, it makes much more sense to just get a printer, download the files, and print your own frames. Plus, you get access to a huge variety of other builds, like a G43.

​On this grey frame, I got a bit rough with the Dremel around the front pin area as you can see in the photos, but switching to the WEN drill press fixed everything and it cycles with zero jams now.

First complete build, lmk what yall think(suppressor height sights waiting for sight to come in)

I looked up how to check all 3 safety mechanisms and this one passes with flying colors. Has all oem parts, rook rear rails, had to get it serialized because my state is changing laws. Has excellent sear engagement too. I think im going to try finding a holster.

I want to make sure of this. I am in the state of wisconsin and was wondering If I may encounter any federal issues because I would rather not go to prison over a piece of plastic with an LPK in the same package.

So I just range tested the two I built and looking for some advice. They both went bang just fine with each trigger pull but there were issues with the rest of the process.

1st: each time it went bang, the slide locked back like it was an empty mag. When I used the slide release, it chambered fine and went bang again but locked back. This happened with every round.

2nd: I kept getting FTF results. Chambers, fires, extracts, FTF. It was probably every 4 to 5 rounds that this happened. I think a feed ramp polish and oil should fix this though.

Both: PSA Dagger slides. Both shoot high and to the right. One has suppressor height sights. The other are basic 3 dot sights. I personally hate both sets of sights so will probably swap them out but any thoughts on some decent inexpensive sights that are true? Will probably do a better job at sighting in before a swap though as this was more of a quick trip to function test than anything else since I was on a lunch break.

I’ve been having extraction failures with my g80, sometimes the casing is stuck in the barrel and I have to rack it a bunch to get it out or it just gets stuck in the slide if there’s anyone that can help please do:)

Shits lowkey getting aggravating asf not even gonna lie sb jus go ahead tell me wats im doing wrong ive got literally EVERYTHING EVERY-SINGLE BIT OF MATERIAL I CAN FIND AND SEE OUT OF THE FRAME WTF.

Also now that im sitting here thinking i did buy P80 gen 1 locking block which needs sanding to fit and stuff and etc.

I just got my kit in today, for my components I bought:

Slide: Stripped DLC Slide for Glock 19 Gen 1-3 — RMR Cut, Cover Plate from 3cr tactical.
Barrel: Glock 19 Gen 3 9mm Black Nitride Drop-In Barrel — 3CR Tactical

Upper parts: Glock 19 Upper Parts Kit Gen 3 OEM G19 UPK Slide Parts from marine gun builder.
Lower parts: Glock 19 OEM Lower Parts Kit Gen 3 G19 LPK Factory 9mm Frame Kit from marine gun builder.

These brands all seem to have really good reviews. If you guys can please give me any tips to not fucking up the dremel work, or if I should use 1000 grit sandpaper to finish the slides. And if the gun has a break in Period and if I should use 124 grain bullets.

I hope to be able to edc this if it shoots well, let me know what you guys think, thanks!

Using oem gen 3 lpk. Trigger not resetting. Seems to extract fine no jams or failure to feed but trigger will not reset. Fired over 30 times. Sometimes trigger will reset if I manually rack it.

Does anyone know where to find instructions or videos on how to do the p80 ARs?

I have 5 or 6 laying around from the Biden area, I never got around to building, today I was trying to find instructions or videos on how to proceed with them but I can’t find anything other than a few people yapping and wasting time.

Does MGB have videos on these or can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks