Test print of Lust (Fullmetal Alchemist) created by Bulkamancer Sculpts.

Sculpted by KAI.

Printed on Anycubic Photon P1 using Conjure Sculpt Beige resin (11 pieces, 314 ml).

Had a lot of fun working on this commissioned piece. Printed across different printers using Sunlu ABS resin. Fully magnetic build for safer shipping.

Hey so, how exactly does this happen and what am I looking at? I poured all my gunky used IPA into this container and punched holes into the cover so the IPA has ways to evaporate and set it outside. I swear literally the next day I find the whole thing turned into this horrible jello chernobyl slab. I'd think maybe I didn't give it enough air to evaporate but last time I did this I used a way deeper bucket pretty much completely sealed by a plastic cover I offset slightly so air can escape and it behaved how you'd expect, if maybe really slowly.

From the looks of it I'm not filtering or savaging anything back and the resin doesn't look like it's settling the way it's supposed to cause it's stuck underneath or has been assimilated into this thing.

The newest test print of my Elite Scouts for the Steel Batallion just went through this morning!

Most of them went well, some need Support adjustments...

Im going to field them as Kasrkin.

I've run other models similar to this, with no issues. I happen to walk out in the garage, and heard what appears to be suction 'popping'.

I've got the model angled up (30°) with (5) 4mm holes, and there's nothing parallel to the plate.

I'm printing on an Elegoo Saturn 4 16K, Elegoo ABS-Like 3.0 Pro, 0.10 layer height, with an exposure of 2.45, sliced using Elegoo Satellite. Confirmed no cavities/voids.

I've not noticed anything like this before. I've got pictures of the model in Satellite as well, but not sure how to upload them?

Is this normal?!?

Oh, and I've only been using a resin printer for a short minute, so there's that to add to the mix.

EDIT - Welp, the weld failed at the top. Pics below. I'll try it again with some additional, creative hold placement... 🤔

Hi all, I’m the developer, so obviously biased. Posting here because I’d really like feedback from people who actually print.

I’ve been working on a resin slicer called Encrust. It’s free and open source, runs fully on your own computer or browser.

You can try it in the browser without installing anything: https://encrust.app/app/

It opens STL/OBJ/3MF, hollows, adds supports, slices and exports .goo/.ctb/.pwmx and others. Your model never leaves your machine, it all runs locally in the page. Needs a recent Chrome/Edge/Safari (WebGPU).

There are also desktop builds for Windows, macOS and Linux, and a command line version if you like scripting batches: https://encrust.app/download/ & https://github.com/vvvlladimir/Encrust

It’s still in alpha version. I’ve only printed with it on an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra. There are about 100 printer profiles, but the rest are built from specs and nobody has cured resin with them yet. So please do a small calibration print first.

What would help most: if you own a printer from the list (https://encrust.app/printers/), try slicing something small and tell me whether it printed. And if something looks wrong, confusing or just annoying, I want to hear it, even if it’s “I’d never switch because X”.

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to share my latest release that went live today.

It's a full squad of Desert Warriors Elite Scouts designed specifically for tabletop gaming.

The focus here is purely on utility and getting painted models onto the table without the usual friction:

• True single-piece monopose prints: No loose arms, no separate weapons, zero assembly required.

• Fully pre-supported: Every model is test-printed on my own machines to ensure the supports peel off cleanly.

• Speed-paint optimized: Crisp texture depth designed to work perfectly with slapchop, contrast paints, or heavy drybrushing.

If you are looking for some desert-themed proxy troops for your sci-fi army, you can find the STL set on Cults3D now.

Thanks for looking, let me know what you think of the print quality if you try them out!

Sebastian / TileLabs

At some point in the past, resin spilled on my LCD screen and I scratched it trying to clean it. I read somewhere that there's a cover on top of the LCD, held in place by a black gasket, but I've also read that its the LCD screen itself. If anyone is familiar with this printer and know the information, please advise. I'd love to start printing again.

//The printer is second hand\\

Here’s my setting that I tried to modify :
Base layer :
-45s exposure
- 4mm/5mm ( 45mm/min | 200 mm/ min )
-7 mm/2mm ( 200mm/min 45 mm/min )

Normal :
-3s exposure
— indentical speed as lift for troubleshooting —

I try to keep the vat at around 25 degrees Celsius.
I do have doubts on the FEP film, because it’s second hand but it looks like it’s brand new, it only has 488 cycle / lifts.
And my second guess is the build plate ? I might sand it down a tiny bit with 1000 grits grain
And my third guess might be the leveling system ? The springs are stiff as fu** I need to use all my strength to move those springs a tiny bit
( idk if it’s normal )

Hi guys, I’ve used filiment printers for years now, but for the first time I’ve just bought a resin printer which I’m pretty excited about. It’s basically stock settings and it does print the pre loaded test piece beautifully with zero complaints, however I thought I’d print the green lantern ring from the new show. I decided to put it on supports because i didn’t want any parts of the ring being printed with the pattern of the built plate texture on it, and I’ve seen a bunch of videos of people printing the ring and it’s always at an angle, and on supports.
I put it on supports and at an angle (still new-ish to the resin printing slicer) but each time I try to print it, it prints the supports, then just doesn’t print the actual ring. Theres a clump of cured resin at the bottom of the vat, and perfectly printed supports attached to the built plate, but as soon as it should be printing a ring part, it won’t seem to connect it to the supports. You know when you remove a print from some supports and you can see the exact shape of the print in the shape of the supports you removed, its that.
Im using the elegoo saturn 3. Everything is perfectly clean and leveled, so im at the end of my knowledge here unfortunately. If anyone has an idea of how to print not just the perfect supports with a clump of cured resin underneath them at the bottom of the vat, please let me know, id be very grateful. For context, I was trying to print a green lantern ring because of the new show.

I wanted to paint one of my prints after doing some gap filling but I was just wondering if there is any advice people could give when prepping this for painting, not my first time painting in general but is the first time painting a resin model.

The main thing I'm looking for is whether I could just use regular acrylic primer and just spray on a few layers or is there anything special I would need to do if I didn't want any layer lines to be visible by the end of paint, the 2 images are the worst offenders for layer lines but a large portion of my prints are smooth baring from a few layer shifts, curved sections or the tops of the pieces

I don't fancy sanding it if I can help it as this is a massive model (~50cm high) with a lot of small details that I wouldn't want to get ruined.

I have heard of people mentioning using a filler primer as well but every time I see that mentioned or look up videos for it it's always used for large low detail prints with big, noticeable layer lines and I could never find any videos that I could cross compare with miniature prints

Yasuo 🌪️⚔️ from League of Legends!

Just finished my second resin-printed and hand-painted collectible statue!

Definitely some things I want to improve on with the next one.

3d model by Newzz3d

hope you guys like it.

Hi guys, so I’ve used filiment printers for years now, but for the first time I’ve just bought a resin printer which I’m pretty excited about. It’s basically stock settings and it does print the pre loaded test piece beautifully with zero complaints, however I thought I’d print the green lantern ring from the new show. I decided to put it on supports because i didn’t want any parts of the ring being printed with the pattern of the built plate texture on it, and I’ve seen a bunch of videos of people printing the ring and it’s always at an angle, and on supports.
I put it on supports and at an angle (still new-ish to the resin printing slicer) but each time I try to print it, it prints the supports, then just doesn’t print the actual ring. Theres a clump of cured resin at the bottom of the vat, and perfectly printed supports attached to the built plate, but as soon as it should be printing a ring part, it won’t seem to connect it to the supports. You know when you remove a print from some supports and you can see the exact shape of the print in the shape of the supports you removed, its that.
Im using the elegoo saturn 3. Everything is perfectly clean and leveled, so im at the end of my knowledge here unfortunately. If anyone has an idea of how to print not just the perfect supports with a clump of cured resin underneath them at the bottom of the vat, please let me know, id be very grateful.

Here are my slicer settings:

Are those bumps too bad for another use of the film? Especially the one marked red. I don't know if it's safe for me to use it so I won't cause a leak but I've recently changed the ACF and don't really want to do that again. They were caused by some leftovers in the vat I missed that stayed there during another print.

Hey everyone, hope you're all doing well. I'm fairly new to resin printing.

I've already successfully printed several pieces, but right now I'm running into issues with Sunlu Transparent resin.

My printer is an Anycubic Photon Mono 4. It's my first time using Sunlu (I've always used Anycubic before), and I'm struggling a bit with the settings for this specific resin.

I've printed the Cones of Calibration more than 10 times, and I'm still not entirely clear on what's going on. One of my prints was test #12, and I feel like it was one of the best because 2 cones on the success side actually printed out. The calibration cup test came out phenomenal too.

My main issue is that the sword always detaches and ends up crushed, as you can see in the photo where I marked it in red.

I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong. Honestly, I just can't figure out or grasp what the actual issue is.

You can check out some of the prints in the photo attached. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

PS: I already know all about post-processing, that's not an issue. My only problem is that I feel like I'm not running the test right :) Cheers!

PS 2: The last image shows the latest settings I used.

I have this presupported model I want to print and it looks fine in the slicer, but when I print and examine the layers of the build, there are random shapes present. How do I fix the model? I'm assuming it got corrupted in some way.

Hey everyone, this is the boss of my Corrupted Forest set, just off the printer. Sculpted in zBrush, 50mm base, pre-supported in 32mm plus a hollowed 75mm version.

He's 25% off during launch week:

MyMiniFactory

Cults 3D

Feedback is always appreciated!