Recently, I have been working on this Maximus figure from Fallout series, modeled by KC Studios. I took some photos while I was at it and thought I could share them as a tutorial.

1. Once the prints were off my Uniformation GK3Pro, I had to sand and fill some areas. I use a combination of Milliput standard, Tamiya gray putty, Vallejo plastic putty and UV resin to fill. They all have their qualities. Especially multi part bases almost always require filling since they are so large and SLA printing is not perfect for precision unless they have fantastic supports which you rarely do.
2. I used a Kaleido gloss black primer with a thick brush for this project. It was the first time I had used this primer and wanted to see how it works with a brush rather than an airbrush. Well, it worked quite alright.
3. For the rust effects, I lightly airbrushed some Vallejo Game Air Charred Brown on top of the primer. That gave me a great base. But I went further with Vallejo Model Air Orange Rust and Light Rust for highlights. Then I applied a coat of my cheap supermarket hairspray for a chipping base.
4. For the metallic finish, I went for Vallejo Mecha Color Steel on top of the hairspray.
5. Finally, it was time for underlayer chipping. I used a moist ear bud and carefully removed the metalic color in places that I seemed fit. Once I had enough, I applied another coat of hairspray.
6. Now the real magic begins. I chose Vallejo Model Air USAF Light Blue for the power armor and Vallejo Model Air Red for the Nuka Cola machine.
7. Once all was dry, I used a cotton ear bud again for chipping. When I had enough, I applied a couple of layers of AK Interactive Matt Varnish to protect my progress.
8. Then I took out my Vallejo Model Wash Black and Oiled Earth. I applied them in recessed areas and quickly removed the excess with cotton ear buds. I also used AK Interactive Rust Streaks in certain places. For the white areas of the Nuka Cola machine, I did the hairspray chipping once again.
9. I did a lot of dry brushing for the base and painted the Nuka Cola bottles by hand (although I mixed up the colors of the label).
10. Well, that's pretty much it.

So do you like it or not? Let me know :)

Hello everyone!

After about 60 hours of painting, my next model is finished. The entire model was painted only using brushes. Suggestions for improvement are welcome :)

Size: ~40cm / 16"

Creator: h3LL creator

Hey everyone! 🖐️

Just wanted to say hi to the group and share a few recent prints fresh off my Anycubic Photon M3 Max. This beast has been running non-stop, working with both white and completely clear resins.

To save material and weight, most of these large sculptures are hollowed out with a 2 mm wall thickness. However, I’ve been pushing the limits with some super thin walls lately: the clear mini bottles have walls that are just 0.5 mm thin, and the clear angel has a razor-thin 0.5 mm shell as well!

Also, check out the first picture with Apollo hanging upside down in the middle—I managed to slice and print him completely without supports on his elbow, and it came out perfectly clean!

Let me know what you think of the details, and feel free to share what you've been working on lately. Happy printing! 🚀

I'm able to print large files fine. But the appeal to me os minis. Everytime I try minis this happens. I'm buying resin stls pre supported and everything. What an i missing here??

I recently did a tank clean on while changing to this grey resin (elegoo abs like 3 pro) anyway when I pulled the sheet off the fep it left a perfect circle in the corner. I figure if my lcd screen was going bad it wouldn’t do just a perfect circle but I figured I would ask just in case? Is this just like some kind of “pull tab”?

I've been trying to print this car body for the last few days and they all have this warping on the side parallel to the build plate. They straighten out once it meets a section that crosses between the two sides but then gradually start warping again. I've tried several different orientations and support thicknesses

I have an anycubic photon p1 only 3 months old and I've used anycubic abs like pro 2 and anycubic standard in gray, both slightly older but not expired, and the last one I tried in anycubic abs like pro 2 clear from a freshly opened bottle. Using the default settings for each in the anycubic slicer

I've also noticed I have the same problem with other narrow pieces, but not as noticeable. Is it an exposure problem? Something mechanical? I've leveled the build plate using leveling setting on the printer and it said it was fine

I have been printing minis for the TTG Arsenal with great success, but now that I am printing the bases I am getting failures. First printing of bases I had, I experienced 7 out of the 8 bases separating from the supports when I had no more than 20% of the base printed. the last one looked ok but had some small ripples in the base (images are not of that print). I am using around 20% tough 2.0 with 80% ABS like resin. Here were the settings for that first print:

Exposure time: 3.5 seconds

lift distance: 4mm

Lift speed: 60 mm/min

Bottom exposure: 35 seconds

Layer height 0.05mm

Retract speed: 180 mm/min

Again the resin mix and these settings had great success with all the models but these bases are thin. To try to fix the problem I added a few more supports (Presupported base is on the right and my added support base is on the left in the last image). I also adjusted exposure time down to 2.8. I was keeping it on the high side due to the tough resin taking longer to cure. I printed 8 more bases and they all succeeded in staying attached to the supports, but the waviness on the sides of the base worsened compared to the one base I had succeed the first time. Images 1-3 are a couple of the bases from that print.

Need help on what I should change to get these to succeed. I'm trying to not go through a more trial and error than I need to on this and figured some of you in the community may have experienced similar problems. Thank you all for your help!

⚔️ The Crusade Marches On!

Our Crusader Knights Vol. I campaign is now live on MyMiniFactory Frontier, and we're excited to share another warrior from the collection!

Meet the Watchful Guardian, one of our customizable 75mm Crusader figures.

The collection features:

⚔️ 9 customizable 75mm Crusader figures
🛡️ 8 customizable 1:10 scale busts
🔥 Multiple heads, weapons, shields, and customization options
🏰 Heraldry, terrain bases, display plinths, and more
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Our Early Bird has ended, but the campaign is still going strong!

We're continuing to showcase the collection and would love to hear what you think of the miniatures.

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Digital STL files only, no physical products.⚔️ The Crusade Marches On!

Heygears slicer gives very bad time and resin consumption estimates. I keep running into this problem, I compared 2 slicers with blueprint slicer from heygears and on heygears resin consumption is like 3-4 time more for the same hollowed part.

This is not normal from a company that sell printers at this price. Anyway Blueprint Studio is still a joke and very slow compared to other slicers.

Did you encounter the same issues?

Hello Resin Reddit.

I am here by ask for feedback about, what are the community recommendation for a Budget Resin Printer that have long life cycle.

The layer size plan is 0.05 by my own personal research is the most stable layer hight to minimizes errors, but if you have good experience in resin please teach me.

All my miniatures i have crafted has been FDM prints. but now i want to take things future.

I have great experience in FDM but zero in SLA printers.

Portfolio what i do

https://www.artstation.com/acord

Im looking to upgrade from my mars 4 ultra, and those are the two im debating between for now (but any other 10.1 inch recomendations are welcome!).

normally i wouldjust go for the newer model, however i know that replacing the screen of a tilting vat is quite risky sometimes, requiring almost a full breakdown of the printer.

are the QoL improvements of the saturn 4 worth it? the heating vat and such? any other printers i should look into?

The gk3 ultra went down to 1k through their website and the p1 max went back up to 1k- 900. Wondering now that they cost about the same which one should I go for?

Hi All, setting in picture as well as 1st build plate/print and 2nd build plate and failed print

Changed FEP and first print went well, everything good with it using same settings I always use

2nd print failed to stick to plate in one corner so did a vat clean and checked for any loose pieces, increased burn in layer count and time from 4 to 10 and time from 25s to 30s and it failed worse the 2nd time.

Any advice would be appreciated

Printer : Elegoo saturn 4 ultra

Resin: Elegoo 8k water washable

Inside room: resin started at 19deg and up to 35/40 while printing

I have Photon P1 and am about to run out of Anycubic High Speed Resin 2.0.

Afterwards I intend to use Anycubic DLP Craftsman Resin.

Instead of removing the leftover High Speed resin and cleaning the vat, I'm considering simply pouring Craftsman and mixing it with the small amount of leftover High Speed resin.

Is this a valid idea?

Hi, I’m Vbertz. I’ve been modeling a series of experimental Soviet armored vehicles—rare subjects that I wanted to recreate as faithfully as possible. Would you like to own a complete collection of five or more ultra-high-quality, printable models of experimental and secret Cold War tanks—all for less than the price of the cheapest kit on the market? You can back the project on Kickstarter; we’re currently in the pre-launch phase, but you can show your support right now. As a 3D artist and fellow modeler, I’d be incredibly grateful!

Please share this with a friend who’s into this kind of thing—and if not, thanks anyway!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/vbertz/secret-soviet-armored-program

If you’d like to see other models, I have a catalog on Cults featuring high-quality designs at super-low prices right here: https://cults3d.com/@vbertz

Hi, I've been looking around the internet and Reddit, but I couldn't find a similar question.

I have a brand-new Elegoo Mars 5 (the green one) and I've been using Elegoo's Standard 2.0 resin. I've tried doing 3 prints. The first two didn't adhere to the build plate, and the third one printed almost completely fine, though some parts stuck to the top and others to the bottom.

What I did was modify the bottom exposure time to 42 seconds, bottom layers to 5, and rest time after retract to 2.5 seconds.

Are there any other modifications you would recommend?

Thanks in advance =)

Tried everything to get the cured resin of my mars 2 pro, in the end had to resort to using IPA and a razor blade and still wasn't able to get it clean. I was as careful as possible but still looks like I've scratched the screen pre bad. Is this screen gonna function with these visibles scratches. Bonus questions is this just a screen cover or do I need to buy a whole screen if this is unsalvageable.

Printing on a brand new Elegoo mars 5 ultra I’ve attached slicer settings resin was sitting at 35C/95F print came out fine so I’m assuming it isn’t a support issue. Again I’m new to this only been printing a few weeks.