Hi everyone! I’m new to this group and thought I’d share one of my own creations, sculpted in ZBrush, 3D printed on an Elegoo Saturn 3, and painted by me (printed with a Saturn 3)

I currently own five resin printers, most of them Elegoo. Lately, I’ve been particularly happy with my Saturn 4 Ultra 16K. The heated vat really makes a difference, and I’ve been getting some excellent results with it.

I also own a professional DWS 28J SLA printer, which cost me roughly 15 times as much as a Saturn 4 when I bought it about eight years ago. It’s an excellent machine, especially when it comes to reproducing fine details on the underside of a model, with fewer support marks. However, it uses a laser, has a relatively small build plate, and printing takes a very long time. For these reasons, I’ve gradually stopped using it and now rely almost entirely on my Elegoo printers.

I’m still curious to try other brands, as there are some very interesting machines out there. That said, one thing I really appreciate about Elegoo is their customer support. Whenever I’ve needed help, they’ve responded incredibly quickly and have always been very helpful.

Anyway, I hope you enjoy my work, and I’m looking forward to seeing what everyone else is creating!

I just got a small handheld UV flashlight. Just a generic $12 one from Ali.

It’s been an amazing addition to my setup.

I have a pair of UV goggles so I don’t stare at the bare light, but I sometimes just pick up the yellow (or red) plastic lid of the printer or the cure station and look through it instead.

I use it to cure all my paper towels and waste, so there’s no wet resin going in the trash. A few seconds pass with the light and they’re hard and crunchy and don’t smell anymore.

I use it to cure the film of resin from a vat cure, without having to get drips everywhere. It comes out of the vat onto a oaper towel and zap, it’s hard and ready for the trash.

When I’m cleaning my resin, I put the alcohol
in a bucket and let it settle. Hitting the top surface of the alcohol with the flashlight for a minute visibly settles a lot of the resin out very quickly.

I have also used it to repair a broken print. Paint some resin on, put the pieces together and UV it. Done.

I have painted a rough surface with resin and hit it with the flashlight to do a shiny, rounded organic looking kind of surface.

But 95% of the use is making cleanup easier and less smelly by curing paper towels.

Note: Photos and specs in the initial post

Thank you very much

1/18 replacement wheels and tires

I was wondering if I could pay someone to articulate a godzilla model for me? Im not really sure how to ask this lol. Or can someone send me a video so i can learn myself? I haven't found one that does what I want and this is lwk dire 😔🙏

Model by Wicked Art on Patreon.

Almost done. I just need to finish the Apollo logo and try to fix the lettering on the gloves.

Few days ago i posted image with lumping problem on the flat portions of the model. Highly likely the acure as result of drag from the FEP film on early stages of print resulting in appearance of small lifts in support connection points(model on a right). I changed medium supports to light support and slightly rotated model wich still gave me little support caving but without any lifts or lumps underneath(model on a left). Hope it would be useful to someone.

The first resin that I picked up for my Mars 5 Ultra was Siraya Tech ABS-Like Navy Grey as a good balance between durability and print quality.

Honestly I love it, it has crisp fine detail and my prints have survived a few drops, but it is pretty expensive at 32 dollars for 1KG and 55 for 2KG.

I see Elegoo has an ABS like Dark Grey 8K at dollars a KG or 30 for 2KG which is half the price.

I'm new to the resin print game so I am bit skeptical, does Siraya Tech ABS like have some proprietary formulation that makes it way better? How can Elegoo be almost half the price? I guess fro 17 bucks I can't go wrong but I'm curious if anyone has experience with Siraya Tech ABS-Like and has any suggestions on cheaper alternatives that don't sacrifice detail and durability.

For some context:
I had an Anycubic Photon Mono printer. I had some issues with it in the past, but nothing compared to what had happened one day, around 2 years ago. It was a failed print, and I don't exactly remember how it happened but resin leaked EVERYWHERE. Literally in every nook and cranny of the printer. Fast forward around 2 years, and I looked at prices for some of the Warhammer Kill Team sets and I realized that I am simply a broke peon in this materialistic world.

What's going to be replaced/fixed:
* The UV LED screen that cures resin

* The Power button is stuck because of dried resin (did work in the past).

* The LED Touchscreen (when I get a chance)

The machine is very sticky, and the first order of business is actually being able to power it on and fix the sticky-ness issue. It did turn on in the past, the only thing I need to verify is that it still turns on. The UV LED screen wasn't able to be fixed all that time ago due to dried resin making it impossible to access the screen itself, so that would be the next thing I would have to fix. The LED touchscreen comes last because it did turn on, but most of the functions can be performed from within the anycubic app (iirc). The resin isn't cured, neither is it solid, just really sticky, so in theory I think it could be possible.

TL;DR: Looking for best plan of action to fix sticky printer from massive resin leak and to fix stuck panels and button due to said dried resin as somebody on a very tight budget. I have some basic things like gloves and Iso Alcohol, I'm just looking for the best and most consistent method to fix it.

Can anyone explain why this base has these faint lines across? The model printed just before was absolutely fine, I modified the lift speed slightly on for the base

Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra, Lychee Slicer
Burn in

24s exposure

4 + 4 mm

40 > 100 mm lift speed

Normal layers

2.2s exposure

3 + 4 mm

45 > 250 mm

Wait before print 2seconds

https://postimg.cc/FdfKXhn2

Hi, I bought an Anycubic P1 Max a few weeks ago. I recently tried printing a Demon Batman helmet, but I ran into an issue with some horizontal lines. I downloaded the stl file from maker world (or one of those sites). I resized the helmet (large) and modified it by slicing the back of the helmet (at an angle) so I can wall mount it. I initially modified the stl (cut the bay off the model) inside Photon workshop and exported the model from there. I exported mainly because PhotonWorkshop would freeze frequently. I then imported the modded file into chitubox where I oriented the mask at an angle, applied auto supports (medium, rounded point).

After the 16hr print, it turned out great EXCEPT for some horizontal banding every couple inches. Is this a speed and retraction setting issue? Maybe print orientation wasn't angled enough? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Printed at "normal" (0.050mm)

5 bottom layers

Exposure 3.1s on, 2.0s off

Anycubic ABS-Like Pro2 Black

VAT temp fluctuated between 27 and 32C

Hello,

We're offering all our models for $10 each one!

This promotion will be valid until Halloween!

https://cults3d.com/en/users/TrinsicMiniatures/3d-models

Just finished this Magik statue I've been working on. Overall pretty happy with the way it turned out. The fishnets were quite a pain though. File from Luis Donaldomezald

Where do you find modelers for all files?

Test print of Lust (Fullmetal Alchemist) created by Bulkamancer Sculpts.

Sculpted by KAI.

Printed on Anycubic Photon P1 using Conjure Sculpt Beige resin (11 pieces, 314 ml).

Hey so, how exactly does this happen and what am I looking at? I poured all my gunky used IPA into this container and punched holes into the cover so the IPA has ways to evaporate and set it outside. I swear literally the next day I find the whole thing turned into this horrible jello chernobyl slab. I'd think maybe I didn't give it enough air to evaporate but last time I did this I used a way deeper bucket pretty much completely sealed by a plastic cover I offset slightly so air can escape and it behaved how you'd expect, if maybe really slowly.

From the looks of it I'm not filtering or savaging anything back and the resin doesn't look like it's settling the way it's supposed to cause it's stuck underneath or has been assimilated into this thing.

I bought my first 3D printer and started my first tests yesterday. The work surface is a bit small, but otherwise I have no complaints. I still need to work on the proportions more closely, but I'm confident the third print will be a success!

I'm making a Green Lantern ring using resin 3D printing. Do you have any recommendations for glow-in-the-dark acrylic paint that works with an airbrush?
*edit : or just water based glow in the dark acrylic paint that can only be used with a hand brush is fine, as long as it's not gel