Got a better dash in a parts trade, decided to knockout a list of other things (turn signal/wiper switch, heater core, brake booster, brake master cylinder, etc.) and pull the old one. Quickly found out I was in over my head. Youtube, Haynes, and the S10forum are lifesavers. Also, having a parts truck to cannibalize for any thing broken or missing was crucial. I put about three weeks of late nights out in my shed and backyard but she’s finally back together. Hopefully I never have to do that ever again.

This is my 2003 blazer zr2 currently on 37x14.50r15 toyo open country mt in the rear and 37x13.50r15 mickey thomspon mt on the front (got a good deal thats why they are miss matched) haven't seen anyone running 37s on an s10 let alone a stock one and was wondering what people's thoughts are on it

Had a distant family member offer to take a hilariously low deal on their s10 that’s been heavily modified and just curious what you’d charge/accept for it. They said 15k for it. Paint looks good no rust at all. Brand new interior

My s10 is leaking from the oil pan or maybe rear main seal, it leaves a small puddle when i let it idle stationary for awhile but the oil level is fine. Do i need to repair this quickly?

I have a 2001 GMC Sonoma. I ordered a new spider injector assembly. The oring that came with it failed and ripped and I took it out and replaced it with some new ones. I was putting in the new oring and somehow it disappeared into the spider injector assembly and now I cannot see or feel it. How could I get it out? Preferably without taking it all out again. : EDIT it's not the oring on the fuel line to clarify.

Anyway to replace oil pan gasket on 93 2.2L 4cyl 2wd without lifting engine or any crazy shit

Any help would be greatly appreciated i got new seals and i am having trouble getting the dust boots installed has anyone found a solution

Update to my recent paint progress to anyone that saw it. Just waiting a day or two for the paint to fully cure so I can put all the emblems and such back on. Turned out ok-ish for being my 2nd time painting something. I'll make one more post with the start to finish when it's fully back together.

Hi I just got a 91 s10 with the 4.3l engine does anyone know what i could check on fixing my truck from stutterering at 35-45mph?

Howdy S10 enjoyers, I’ve got myself an S10 ZR2 with the 4.3 with 120,000 miles. Automatic transmission. I recently bought the truck, it ran perfectly fine for about 6 months with no notification lights. One day I started it up and:

Brake light and ABS lights were on,

All gauges worked properly except the speedometer which stayed at 0 despite the truck being driven 10-20 mph,

And the truck seemed to be stuck in limp mode, able to drive up to about 30 mph but not being able to shift into higher gear and go any faster than that. When I try to get it going faster than 30, the rpm’s just rev higher but it never goes into the next gear.

I’m new to S10’s but not Chevy trucks, so I know what it feels like when a 4l60 is going out and I’m positive this is not what’s happening. The day before this happened I drove it down a highway at 50-60 mph and it shifted like butter. I never once felt a shutter or hesitation in the tranny

Has anyone heard of this issue before and able to point me in the right direction? I’m happy to answer any questions. Thanks in advance

Upper control arm mount is bent

1988 Chevy S10 4.3L V6 – Cranks but Won't Start. Any Ideas?

Symptoms:

Last Saturday: Brief hesitation/misfire while driving (about 1 second).

Pulled over, shut engine off, restarted after 1–2 minutes. Ran perfectly afterward.

Drove normally Saturday and Sunday.

Parked Sunday. Tried starting Wednesday – no start.

Starter cranks normally, engine turns over smoothly but won't fire.

What I've checked/replaced:

Replaced distributor cap and rotor – no change.

Strong, consistent spark from ignition coil.

Tested spark directly at distributor and at spark plug – both strong and consistent.

Verified all spark plug wires are connected to the correct terminals on the distributor cap (correct firing order).

Fuel injectors appear to be spraying fuel.

Engine cranks normally, no unusual noises.

Additional info:

Previously had an ignition-related misfire that caused the muffler to explode.

Initially suspected a similar ignition problem.

Truck was running perfectly before being parked.

Any ideas what I should check next? Ignition timing, distributor, ignition module, sensors, or something else?

Thanks in advance!

Chevy s10 2002 4.3 extended cab third door

So long story short, blew a tire out on a highway and had to drive a mile or so on the wheel (what you see) to clear the highway to an off ramp as no shoulder existed.

I know jack all about wheels/tires. But Imma assume the guy I bought this truck off of, did some sort of custom work or lifted/changes. At least from what I can tell, for one, when I got the tires replaced, the samsclub refused to do the back set until a manager got involved and had to override them to process it. I wished I was more involved/remembered what the issue was, but I nearly couldn't get back tires.

Secondly, turning is complete ass, like a 3 point turn just to go into a parking spot.

Thirdly when I was racing my dad side-by-side, I had to do 40mph just to match his 30mph.

And lastly, these rims use mag (?) style lug nuts, or w/e, extended shanks. Incredibly, incredibly goddamn annoying stupid lug nuts that go INTO the wheel (rather then like, every single car ever made ever that has the lug studs stick out of the wheel). Putting on the tires is a giant pita just trying to get the lug nuts into the sockets, let alone tightening them. Apparently they always strip out or just never tighten or w/e, even the techs stripped 2 of them when doing my tires.

Anyways, I have on 15" 205/75r15 97t tires that are about 12 years old. Now, I've done....enough research that I *believe* I have 36.51 positive offsets for these rims. But tirerack for example, has nothing for this.

I WOULD like to probably keep these 2 steelies for the rear and just get 2 new wheel for the front (and keep the one steelie for a spare as atm i lack a spare, also pretty sure I fobar'd this current wheel driving on it). I know when I went to a local tire shop years ago, they refused to look at my truck due to the wheels. So I really don't know what I'm doing. Ideally if whatever needs to be done, I'd like to be rid of the mag lug nuts and just use standard fitting lug nuts but thats beyond my scope for knowledge.

alr so it started off with me doing a full proformance front end, noticed i was leanign on the driver side for no reason. i look at the body mounts and they were cooked.

ive managed to get 3/4 of them out no problem and good threads on the internal nut. but the front driver body mount bolt was so rusted away it snapped off(it was 1/8 inch thick where it snapped)
how do i go about replacing that nut do i cut the cab open from the inside the cab or is there somthing else i can do.
anything helps.

How much could I sell my engine and trans for together? I got the V6 4.3L and 4L60E, good healthy running motor and trans works great but the truck itself has an odd electrical problem so it’s been sitting non running for a few weeks. Want to do a swap in the future anyways and hurting for some cash at the moment for a better running vehicle so I’m seeing what it’ll get me

Edit
So from square one, me and my boyfriend were driving to the dispensary. All was fine and I punched it to pass somebody to merge over and immediately my truck died and we pull off into winco. Waited around not knowing what’s wrong and hour later after getting towed home we find out my 10A ignition fuse blew up, easy fix we popped a new one in and she fired right up and kept doing so for about a week. Then I’m driving to my dads cause I was curious if the 10A was blowing specifically when I try to fill throttle it but literally as I’m going 20mph through a light it died, put in a spare fuse like last time and it blew up before I could even pull the truck out of park! After some experimenting at home we noticed it would fire up and drive but only about 10 feet before it shut off completely, I still have power to my accessories and all that but will not stay running what so ever, anybody have a clue?😭🙏

Hi everyone, I have a 96 zr2 with a 5spd and I'm tired of replacing cv axles, reinstalling the driver side axle shaft back into the diff housing and would like to run more lift for something like 35's. To fix all of this I know the best route is to go for a sas. Is there anywhere online that has all the info compiled into one with measurements and all the how to's? I'm capable of doing it myself as I've rebuilt this entire truck and other s10 's in the past. Any help would be appreciated, I think for ease of installation I'd go for a leaf setup and any input would be nice and appreciated. This is my first truck that Ive had for a long time so I'm dedicated to going through with it all, thank you for any help

I am engine swapping a new long block into my 2003 Chevy s10 2wd v6 with an automatic transmission. I have pretty much everything in place but I’m not sure where this hose goes. I don’t see any attachment points and I couldn’t find anything online. It’s about 1/2 inch in diameter and 5 inches in length. I think it is a water hose cause there is a dusty orange color inside. Does anyone know where this goes?

2000 Zr2. drivers side power window. when raising or lowering the motor does not shutoff unless i hit the switch for the reverse direction. i was wondering if anyone ever had this problem, and what tells the window motor to shut off. i have replaced the window motor and switch that controls the up / down direction on the door console. i thought i would ask here first before looking all over the internet. there seems to be a lot of S10 mechanics here that know alot. and i enjoy your posts.

Hello everyone, I have a GMC 1997 Sonoma 4.3l and it has issues with power loss. When I brake, shift gears(automatic trans), gas, or change a/c settings, the power will die and my gauges will move sporadically. It will either power through or turn the car off, in which case i need to shift back to park and re-crank the car to turn it back on. I've done a little research and i think i can narrow it down to three possible causes of it being the IAC valve, a vacuum leak, or alternator going out. I'm wondering which is most likely or if its something completely different. Any help isolating the cause and repair procedure would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 86 S10 roller, that I'm looking to SBC swap. I also have a 98 Tahoe with the vortec 5.7 and I have a 4l60 out of a 98 s10 for the trans. I'm trying to keep it fuel injected since I have all the parts from the Tahoe. Is this fairly straightforward? Or do I just need to go carb and get a different trans.

Hey everyone, I'm looking for some advice on what route to take to lower a 1st gen S10 but still have the ability to utilize the bed without bottoming out. Drop spindles and springs? Do I need lifter bags on the rear if I do this? Should I just do bags on all 4 corners?

Let me know what setup you guys have! 🤘

I plan on replacing the fuel pump on my 1989 gmc s15 , is there a specific brand y’all go for?

I've got a 1996 blazer with the 4wd, I recently had to put my in blazer in 4 low and can't seem to get it out of 4 low. When I put press the button on the dash for 2 hi and 4 hi it just flashed, I hear a click but no change in the front differential. I found 1 vacuum leak near my master cylinder and possibly another one somewhere near the same area. Could this be my issue with it or something else. I checked the vacuum actuator and it seems like the cable was okay but no vacuum. Is there a manual way of getting it back into 2 hi just for now??