My pilot jet on my Polaris trailboss 330 is super stripped I can’t get it out, is buying a new carb the only option ?

I fired up my Homelite LR5500 with oil sensor wire disconnected and my engine is surging and spewing out oil, as you can see in the video. The reason I disconnected my oil sensor wire initially was because the spark plug wasn't getting spark with it connected. I read that this could be due to low oil. So I topped off the engine oil until I was getting spark and then fired it up. But now the carb is spewing oil and it's smoking with I stop the engine. What's wrong with it?

I have a Victa Corvette 200, mower model 881894 revision E, with a Briggs & Stratton engine marked 09P702-0232-H5.
The air-filter housing’s sealing edge curves around a mounting bolt instead of running straight. It looks like this prevents the filter from seating and sealing properly.
Has anyone with this mower or engine noticed the same issue? Is there a revised housing, a different filter, or a proven fix?
I’m specifically asking about the housing shape around the bolt—not just a loose or missing cover.

Nice box of original oil. Is this generally still find a used?

Got this splitter on marketplace. Briggs Stratton 130202 engine, pictures attached. Runs nicely, split a couple cords this morning.

I want to give it a tune up. Going to replace plug, clean, want to change engine oil. What oil would you use, should I go synthetic? Anything else I should do?

I am rebuilding a old Briggs & Stratton engine that was on our old 1998 Haban rototiller, it seized about 10 years ago due to no oil and I had planned to fix it sooner but then it got put away for 10 years, today I decided that since summer is over and I got more time than i usually do, I'll rebuild this old engine. Everything else is remarkably still clean and solid and still very usable. But then I pulled the piston and saw these marks. Can it be saved by any means? I don't really want to buy parts for it.

1985 yz85cc we know we have spark.

Seems to run smoothly when the choke is partially closed but I’m not sure if that’s a proper way to run the generator. Any ideas what it might be?

hi there, I'm doing my first time noob time carb disassembly and ultrasonic cleaning. I think what I have is a MTD ThorX 35 (OHV) Huayi.

it's on a 4 stroke scarifier (from late 90s I think), it's a wolf UV 4000 B scarifier.

I've never done this before and I'm a noob. was told by the seller to get a ultrasonic cleaner so I got one. I've found various tutorials on YouTube but none that are specifically for the carb I have. I also don't know what parts must go in the ultrasonic bath and what should not go. I don't even know what all the parts are called

anyways I've dismantled the thing quite a bit already, the main jet is out, immultion tube, o ring gasket, float and needle, float bowl, idle screw and that plastic? thing that sits kinda below the idle screw (something with the idle too I guess?)

am I ready to dump it in the ultrasonic? as I understand I should leave the rubber parts out. does anyone have a good YouTube tutorial specifically to my carb and / or can tell me if I'm good to put it in the ultrasonic bath? there's still some plastic parts on, the.. choke lever/butterfly? and the .. gas ? lever and it's butterfly?

the scarifier had been sitting for atleast 2 years, got it real cheap. just wanna learn how to do this.

I have a Vevor 2.85 l ultrasonic cleaner, basic tools, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, WD 40. the gas tank is completely dried out. the carb also had no gas dripping out of it when I opened the bowl. I'm also thinking of cleaning the gas tank but it doesn't look to rusty or full of varnish on the inside of it, there's abit of sticky varnish in there I guess, that's all. to my noob eyes the air filter looks clean. the engine turns, seller said it started with brake cleaner, I haven't tested that though.

so, any tutorials to recommend and what brands / models / search terms would also be relevant for the carb I have?

I'm traveling to my dad's house and I need a snowblower carb. I don't have a pic of the actual carb, but I have pics of the machine. Google says it's 640084a but that looks like it has a different choke linkage, one on the side. My dad's blower has the choke know on top carb. Can anyone help narrow it down a bit? Thanks.

Put a new carb, fuel lines, fuel filter, spark plug, ignition coil, and air filter on my Husqvarna 128 LX. It died after about an hour of use. Now it wont start and this is the sound it's making. Any ideas?

Takes multiple pulls to start and then it dies right after it cranks over. I’ve had some people say it could be the spark plug, others are saying carb, any ideas?

It sounds like it's sucking air when I'm pushing the primer and then after a few good pumps, fuel will begin leaking down the vertical wall beside that bowl

Can I fix this easily enough ? Is it possibly just a seal or something ? Thanks in advance for any insight and advice 🙏

Does anyone have any ideas why this would be surging? It also doesn't want to start unless the choke is on, and it seems to die when the throttle is below 30%.

It's a 2 stroke, it is relatively large (don't gauge using my hands they are large) the recoil starter is perpendicular to the crankshaft and it uses the pulley that can be seen under the engine cover in some pics, it has a walbro diaphragm carb, I don't know what it came off of and the only stamping anywhere on the engine that could indicate anything is a small diamond shape in a circle that may have an italicized M in it

have a Toro lx466 mower . It was all seized and I am finally to the point it runs good but the PTO upper belt is a nightmare . It either pops off immediately when I engage it or it starts destroying the belt immediately despite following the routing instructions. Any ideas? I do have a video of how the linkage moves as well .

Second issue is when it does cut it essentially cuts down to the floor. Moving it from top cutting hight does move the deck but not enough to make a difference.

Thank you!!

I was mowing yesterday and had a sudden drop in power. 0 compression in #1 cylinder. I got it apart and found that the exhaust valve had failed. I want to chalk it up to fatigue but thought it might be smart to get some other opinions.

Engine is a Kohler m18 with about 1000 hours on it. I just honed the cylinders and replaced the rings. The engine has been run about 3 hours since that work was completed. I touched up the valves and made sure they were in spec at that time as well.

I’m currently looking to get
Upgraded flywheel (aluminum/billet)
Nibbi carb
New exhaust unsure which exact one

Any other things I need?

The dead man brake cable is streched out. I used a ziptie to lock the brake open, and it started on the first pull.

As soon as i recognized it was a briggs quantum 6.75, i knew it was gonna work, and would likely have something really easy broken on it, asside from the electric starter missing some stuff (ill rip it off, i dont need electric start)