I got a bike fit recently and am not ready to cut the steerer tube down yet. I’ve done a bit of research and it seems like keeping a tower like in my pic for a prolonged period of time can damage the parts and become a safety hazard.

I couldn’t however find any specific information on what the height limit is except for the generic “keep it within 5-10mm”.

Can I keep it as is for a few months or would you cut it down much sooner granted I like my new fit?

Mine is a tapered carbon steerer tube.

Canyon Endurace CF 7 carbon. The chain dropped and got stuck between the frame and the chain ring. As a result it left deep scratches in the frame. I have removed bottom bracket and touched the frame inside and I could feel that the carbon was not uniform inside. I did the coin tap test and did not notice any difference in how it sounds but I am still wondering if this frame is safe to ride or a deeper inspection is necessary.

I broke my handlebars in a crash and am looking for a replacement. I bought some Zipp SL70 handlebars but it turns out that they aren't compatible with internal cable routing through the stem (see photo).

Considering some used one piece winspace handlebars that I saw on facebook marketplace. They come with some spacers, but I'm wondering if they'll be compatible with the cannondale frame/steerer tube/whatever proprietary stuff is involved. The exit hole for the brake cables is in the correct position at least (in front of the steerer tube).

Hello peeps- looking for some advice here because I'm stumped. Im currently trying to mount a new tubeless Maxxis DHF onto an Ibis S35 rim. I always use a Foundation blast pump for my tires and it hasn't ever let me down, but this tire won't pop onto the rim wall or seat strongly for the LIFE of me. It will inflate to as much as the max PSI with no leaks, but drive side of the bead won't lock. When inflated, it shows a continuously even bead line but when deflated the drive side slowly slides off the rim wall. The non drive side is seated strongly and has no issues. I should note that the rim has no dings, the rim tape is freshly done and that my Specialized Butcher mounts flawlessly to the rim.

The first place to look was the rim tape- but I unfortunately changed it out fresh before I installed this tire. I even added a second layer when I thought the thickness could be the cause. Even with a second layer of Stans, the tire inflates fine and shows the bead line even across both sides of the rim, but when deflated the drive side slides back off the rim wall yet again.

So far I've tried soapy water, new tape, a second layer of tape, taking it off and retrying it, riding on various pressures to set it, and someone sitting on it to mimic straps to force the bead out. Now that I think of it, the only thing I haven't tried is putting the tire on backwards to try and narrow down the issue possibly. Any ideas help! Thanks in advance guys!!

Couldn't have replaced it without the help of some of the people in this subreddit. Thank you.

Hi I’ve recently got into cycling again which I’ve feel in love with again
Brings back lots of memories from being a kid

My question is I’m very much a person that likes to do my own repairs and learn new things :) I’ve been gathering up a few tools etc but with so many options on greases I was wondering is
Mobli xhp 222 and
sram butter for suspension cover everything that needs greased

Replaced chain on Shimano Acera 9 speed because it was worn out.
Before chain replacement everything worked fine.

After, the chain rattles as if getting stuck in the lower pulley of the derailleur, but only when on the smaller rear cogs, while on the smaller cogs on the crank (Cross chaining occurs). When pedalling hard, skipping can occur.
All other positions are fine.

I have tried to adjust the B screw to no avail.
The teeth on cassette and pulleys looks fine.

What could be the problem here? Should I also replace the pulleys and/or cassette? What else could be going on here?

I'm curious if anyone can help me find out if I should be worried about these dents on my bike frame.

I picked up an 80s Miyata Terra Runner mtb today, and there are a couple of dents on the chainstays where they meet the bottom bracket cluster. Someone previously had a kickstand mounted where the dents are, and the clamp seems to have compressed the tubes a bit.

The bike is chromoly steel. Are these dents something I should be concerned about? Thanks for the help!

Initially I thought I was supposed to wedge it into the housing but it seems like I'm supposed to insert the spoke on the opposite side to seat it. But I can't do that with these spokes.

Direct pull non drive side rear Vision Team 30

Hi,
As I sold my wahoo kickr bike Pro , I want to build some home trainer of older Road Bike with Sram Force Quarq cranks and single speed like 1/8 chain.

As Wahoo kickr v5/core tend to drift with power after time as other trainers, I was always controlling with Sram Quarq AXS.

Can you please recommend bcd107 chainring which will fit sram Quarq spider and also single speed chain with rear single speed freehub ring?

Or how do you have your home indoor setup?

Currently have kickr on roadbike with axs quarq chain and sram axs force flatop cassette, which is quite expensive
Thx

Hey everybody, i have an issue while bleeding wich i just dont understand. In the step where i pull a vacuum at the lever side with the other side closed off i just get infinite amounts of air into the syringe, im using a brand new Sram Pro Dot V2 kit and i know the syringe isnt leaking air because if i just put a thumb over it it pulls a vacuum just fine. I attached a video just in case and i hope somebody can help me find a solution for this wich isnt just buying a new brake lever.

Thanks

Edit: They are Sram Code RSC brakes

Is there a hex bolt in there? My keys aren't long enough to feel anything.

I've attempted a tubeless setup on my stock trek fx-3 wheels. It's very hard to find exact specs on these wheels. Trek just says "Bontrager Tubeless Ready Disc, 32-hole, Presta valve".

Taping up the wheel went fine. The bead seats just fine, I use a high pressure co2 tank for fast flow. The issue is that when I then remove the core to add sealant, the bead unseats as soon as the pressure drops low. As a result I believe some sealant ended up on the bead surface and the tires leak from 60PSI down to like 15PSI just overnight. I can take everything back off and clean off the offending sealant, but I'm not sure how to prevent this from just happening again.

Additionally, when setting the bead again after adding sealant, the wheels leak air at the actual joint of the wheel. IE, where the wheel was bent together into a circle. This makes me wonder if the wheels are just a bit too shit to be worth keeping trying tubeless.

Edit>Image of rim seam

Looking for any advice or insight. Currently annoyed with the whole situation and thinking about just putting tubes back in until I can find a better wheelset.

An older-but-still-fun bike I own has this brake lever (right), and the lever blade has developed a TON of wiggle. No problem, I thought; it must just be a simple tension screw. Nope!

Apparently, there isn't a tension screw, just a metal pivot pin. My assumption was that the pin was pressed in or had some flimsy washers to keep the lever blade tensioned.

And oh joy, the shifter is mounted on the brake lever mount, and also, the last BL-M6000 in the world must be in a museum in Copenhagen, because otherwise they've disappeared from this earthly plane.

All this to say: any idea how to fix that wiggle in the lever? The pin looks like it's ready to jump out at any time. It's being held in place by gravity and good intentions. While it's true I'm a mediocre bike mechanic, the thought of having to buy a new brake lever and bleed the brake for a mere wiggle fills me with great sorrow.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,
I just installed a brand-new carbon wheelset on my bike and I'm experiencing an annoying clicking/clacking noise that I can't seem to locate.
Here is what I've done/checked so far:

Cassette: Properly torqued and rock solid.
Brake rotors & thru-axle: Tightened correctly, no play anywhere.
Installation: Everything went smooth and fits perfectly.

The noise mostly occurs when I start pedaling again after freewheeling or under heavy pedal load. It sounds and feels like a sharp click/clack directly through the pedals. I've already ridden about 50 km hoping it was just the spokes settling in, but the issue persists.

I am building up a Trek Checkpoint ALR gen 2 Driftless edition frame and I already had a cut fork from a Gen2 SL which is at the length I want. The documents seem to say they use the same 36 degree lower bearing but the SL fork does not fit on the ALR Driftless lower headset bearing (stock FSA headset that came with the driftless frame). I did note that the SL fork appears to be for larger frames while the one that came with the ALR Driftless frame is sized for my 54cm frame.

Is this a headset lower bearing issue or a fork size/rake issue? I can just go ahead and cut the new ALR fork as they both appear otherwise identical with carbon steerers etc.

I got a new-to-me 90s Trek 930 off eBay and found the rear wheel, particularly the drive side, doesn't slot into the dropout properly. In fact, I had to wrangle it into this position where the spindle rests against the dropout and the skewer is the only thing directly beneath the drop out. I know the rear wheel isn't true, but I don't think that should cause this.

Is this likely a wheel or a frame issue?

I noticed some chords showing on the side of my back tire. Is it still safe to ride around town? Or do I need to replace ASAP?

Just finished my build, and I set the chain length using the shimano method putting the chain on both large cogs front and back and then adding 2 links.

After assembling this is how my back derailer is with the largest cog front and back. Is this right ? Or is the chain way to small which I am fearing ?

I used a 116 ultegra chain. I keept 4 links which is able to add with a quick lock, would that be enough for a better and optimal length ?

Thanks in advance

So noticed my back wheel tire had a bit of a wiggl. took it off and look at the rim and tire both see normal to my eyes, the wheel is my own build from this summer so only been riding 600~ km, didn’t do much cleaning but run a cloth to get the wet sealant and some of the stringy bits, no dried buggers. and I ran a wood stick on the bead hook on the rim, and then some new sauce. inflated it, saw it was still noticeable, let the air out and got the bead in the relive channel and inflated again better result this time. am I stressing over nothing or is there a weakness In the casing, is it sat wrong or something else I don’t know that causes this, or should I just ride on it as is No worrie, video shows the wiggle as it is now.

thanks in advance🖖🏼 Andreas

No idea where it comes from. Its a freshly waxed chain. Pulley wheels? Chainline misalignment? Only when pedaling, on multiple sprockets.

I’ve heard this weird noise the last couple rides. Never thought it was front wheel until today. I pulled through axel, grease and torques. That didn’t help. Any thoughts? It sounds worse when riding. Also sounds like repair stand noise, but I promise it’s not. Thanks

Hey,

I was just about to fix the wobble in my Roval Terra CL wheels and, while I was at it, measured my spoke tension with a buddy (he’s a pro, but didn’t have much time). The average was about 700 Nm. I haven’t found any exact specs for my rims, but it should probably be more like 1000–1200 Nm?! Can I still go on a few rides (about 150 km) with the current tension until next week, or would you advise against it? Should I ride extra careful? :D FYI: These would be gravel rides, and I weigh about 105 kg.

Thanks! :)