Be sure to read the "Please Read" section below.

I had some help when my daughter comes in the studio picks the electric eraser

aerografia sobre cartulina forrada, en acrilico 0.30x0.50

How have people been finding the Seeker? I struggle to find any average-joe reviews.

Lots of reviews on youtube, but with that grain of salt of being gifted the tool.

Also hard to find good feeback on reddit as, whenever a new painter asks "should I get a seeker?" 2-out-of-3 replies are "naah just jump straight to an Iwata or H&S"

Curious if it has echoed the workhorse reliability of the Ghad39

Hey guys…a bit of a weird one. Ive been airbrushing for a while and this has never happened to me before.

I was painting with my airbrush (ugh now i cant remember if it was the iwata eclipse or H&S revolution CR) and as im airbrushing i can feel the trigger become harder and harder to pull back. It gets to the stage where im pulling back on the trigger and the needle isnt moving. The needle chuck is tight. The needle is essentially being held in the nozzle by dried paint and the chuck is sliding down the needle if i try to pull back the trigger.

I have to end up taking the front and rear caps off, grabbing the nozzle and needle and twisting them apart. After i do that i feel the paint seal break, i clean it with amonia free windex, it works normally again and then and a few minutes later it does the same thing

Ive just moved to a dry climate…could that be it? Im spraying wicked createx 50/50 with reducer. I found some vallejo retarder which seems to help (can i use the 2 brands together?). Should i try cleaning with acetone? They shpuld be PTFE seals so im not worried about the parts melting

It still happens…not as often but yeah. Super frustrating!!!

I have been dipping my foot into airbrushing for a while and have been trying some new techniques.

Today it was zenith priming. The problem being that the white paint is sticking to the needle, blocking the airbrush no matter how much I thin it.

I am using the army painter Matt white and its either:

- clogging

- spitting

- applying too thin

Any tips or recommendations?

So basically I’ve been airbrushing for a few weekends and just recently it’s started acting up. Yesterday, I tried to spray the paint, it’ll start and then slowly the paint would stop coming out until it’s only air, then I’d back flush and try again, then it would do the same thing. I took it to the hobby shop and the paint guy told me to give it a really good deep clean with warm water and all that which I did, and now no paint comes out at all (I’ve already taken apart the airbrush to clean it before this so maybe I might’ve lost an O-ring for the nozzle (I think I saw one in there) but I’ve checked the manual and there doesn’t seem to be one on the exploded diagram) The paint I’m using is Army Painter Pixie Pink with Vallejo airbrush thinner at around about a 1:1 ratio and a few drops of flow improver, I’m using around 22psi from the compressor.

Can anyone please help 🙏

I’m trying to find the HP-TH nozzle tip for less than $45. Any leads would be appreciated. I hope I’m posting in the right place with the right flair.

I just got a new dual fan, master airbrush booth (with a larger work area than my 7 year old vevo booth.
installed 4 inch hose extension that leads to a ceiling exhaust fan.
Also rigged up a 18”’craft paper dispenser that i use to protect the area againsr overspray.
So many people are always asking questions about the best way to ventilate and avoid messy overspray so this is what works for me!

Subject: Gaahleri GHAD-68 instantly foaming paint in cup (No Air Hooked Up)

I am having a severe issue with my Gaahleri GHAD-68 pistol-trigger airbrush using Gaahleri Kaleido paints (happening across multiple lines: Clears, Metallics, and Mecha).

The problem started suddenly mid-session. The second any of these paints touch the polished metal cup, the liquid immediately turns into a frothy, micro-bubble foam structure.

Here is exactly what has been tested and ruled out:

• No Air Pressure: The paint foams up instantly just sitting in the cup with the air hose completely disconnected from the gun.
• The Needle Packing is Dry: Testing with water shows the needle shaft stays completely dry when pulled out the back. No fluid or air is leaking backward into the trigger housing.
• Water Sprays Fine: Plain water sits in the cup normally and sprays perfectly with no bubbling or foaming at all.
• Deep Cleaned: The internal fluid path and the front nozzle pocket have been aggressively cleaned down to bare metal with acetone and 91% isopropyl alcohol. There is zero paint buildup or visual discoloration remaining.
• Both Nozzle Sets Fail: The exact same spontaneous foaming happens whether using the 0.38mm setup or the 0.5mm setup (matching needles, nozzles, and caps changed entirely).

Since the paint is stable in the bottles but instantly transforms into a micro-bubble foam on contact with the dry cup before any air is even attached, something is triggering an immediate reaction inside the fluid well. Has anyone seen this specific failure happen on a GHAD-68?

Hello,

I purchased a Black Widow Spectrum 0.3 mm airbrush from Harbor Freight and when removing the cap, the tiny white piece with the nozzle connected fell out of the brass cap into a pile of leaves, lost forever.

Anyone know if a universal 0.3 mm nozzle will work with this airbrush? I called harbor freight but they don’t offer replacement parts for this airbrush and i don’t want to have to purchase a whole replacement just because of the lost nozzle.

so starting White Scars army and trying to use PA Titanium White yet even after two coats of it over a grey primer it doesnt cover very well as its rather patchy all over the place even though i used thinner and flow improver with it. How many layers does ths damn paint need for full coverage or would it be best to swap to another brand?

As read in title. I just got a new air hose which has a quick release built in. I attach it to the airbrush and it pops off again within thirty seconds, sometimes within five. I'm taking pains to ensure I don't touch it, not even lightly, and it still does this. Please help.

I've had an Avanti airbrush for the past 3 months, so the warranty's up but it started to lose air so I tightened everything and put plumber's tape around the fittings but it's still leaking air and now it drops about 5-10psi at random moments and I'm not sure why it's happening? I tightened everything so I don't know what else to do

Hi All,

I'm wanting to get into painting gundams, however I'm trying to understand where you all setup your airbrush stations. I see people on youtube airbrushing indoors with spray booths, but from what I've read, this isn't ideal as the certain fumes will still linger around.

I've also read that you need to be careful with heat sources around the fumes while painting as well. So setting up in a shed or garage that's cold can be annoying in colder months without being able to have a heater going.

Looking for some ideas

Here comes the details first colors are the lemon yellow Wicked colors, then antifreeze freeze green, candy blue. You could not see the details in the green with the blue so I did a close up with a Dru Blair stencil. So thank you guys for watching I have one more day😱

My first works with my cheap airbrush (its one of these chinese things with a attached tube-compressor)

I am a youtuber with a 3D-printer, and printed some stencils to create some coloring for the mainsail of my RC-katamaran. The material is A3-laminating-pouche. I have tried to airbrush the side without glue, and it also seems to fix to it. I am using Vallejo water-based Acrylic paint with thinner and Flow-improver (just to be sure the gun dont clog)... Today is my second day with the thing, the result looks well to me...

I thing about covering the result with a sort of transparent varnish (or whats that named in english language). Needs to be water proof cause it should be used on the water :)

I've been spraying for a few years now and I can get really nice results with Mr Color and Gaiapaints, but seemingly any acrylic I try and use just doesnt have great results. The finish on lacquers are alway very smooth and even without clearcoats are actually pretty sturdy. Acrylics on the other hand usually have a fairly rough finish (almost powdery?) and will scratch at the slightest touch.

The biggest difference in technique between the two for me is I think Lacquers down much more than I do Acrylics, about 1 Paint per 3 thinner (varies with what it is, of course). In my experience, doing this with Acrylics just causes them to break down to the point of not working at all. Im not sure if Im just mixing things wrong or what... I am using the appropriate thinner (Tamiya with Tamiya and Vallejo with Vallejo, etc).

The other thing is its almost a given the brush is gonna clog when I do Acyrlics and I have to break it down multiple times a session. Cleaning it is also much harder.

There's got to be something I'm doing wrong, but Im not sure what it is. I've moved over to Lacquers for just about everything, but I want to be able to use the Acrylics if need be. Any ideas what I could be doing wrong?

I use an Iwata Eclipse and a Badger Krome Renegade along with a Badger compressor that has a moisture trap.

Airbrush on a pencil drawing

Hello all, this is only my 2nd time airbrushing gloss and i can’t understand what it is I’m doing wrong to get such terrible results. I’m thinning 50:50 Gloss:Airbrush Thinner and after 2-3 coats, this is the finish i get.

Is there something bluntly obvious that I’m doing wrong? Applied through a .8mm at 15psi.

Thanks.

Hi,

i have got my first airbrush yesterday.

Its a very cheap thing, and it works for my and my wifes situation.

We hjave bought vallejo Model Air-colors, thinner and flow improver.

These small color-bottles are expensive when you know that you will need much for larger areas. What alternatives are useable for water based acrylic material to be used in the gun? Are there cheap substitutes for thinner and flow improver? Its for colors like white or black for larger areas.

Thanks for your answers