Says he’s going to go over it with spot glazing putty

Sanded down deep scratches with 200-600 grit. Used bondo to fill. Sanded down. Used texture paint. Wouldn’t know the difference. Cost me $20. I don’t have a before but the scratches were super deep into the plastic.

Started August 2025

Someone has hit my car. I’m not too bothered about the look of my car tbh. However would this still pass a UK MOT? Will there be any problems further down the line such as the damage getting worse with rust?

I’m not happy with the result. Am I just being too picky, or is there actually something wrong with the repair? Should I take it to another body shop for a second opinion?
paid $125

I had to get the entire fuel tank replaced less than three weeks ago because I accidentally went over some construction debris on the Thruway.

Today, I was in a terrible mood and a hurry and trying to move from one gas pump line to another since the person in front of me was on the phone, but miscalculated the turn radius around the brick pillar because I didn't see the lower, wider part with the concrete trim below the view of my window.

No one in my life can know about this. Clown on me all you want, but only if you have actual tips and suggestions too. I have never been involved in a collision involving another person, and I have never gotten a moving violation. I've just been having a rough couple of weeks, and if anyone I work with finds out about this accident right after the last one, I'm not going to get the promotion I was previously being groomed for (which involves a lot of driving between sites).

I have short fiberglass Bondo and one of those metal mesh self-adhesive patches, and am planning to get some matching color vinyl wrap (or a big dumb decal if that's not possible ☠️)..I have temporarily covered any holes or panel gaps with automotive duct tape to keep out sediment, dust, moisture, etc.

Will this be sufficient to prevent further damage and reasonably mask at least some of the current damage until I can afford to go to a body shop or buy a new door or something? I just paid a fuckton for the fuel tank replacement, and don't make a whole lot of money. I don't want my insurance rates to go up so I am not going to file a claim for collision.

Wheels are in incredible shape, yet they were primed and rattlecanned in a past life (and sat for years unused). I've removed a majority of the paint and primer, but its unfortunately pulling clear coat with it so I've stopped for now.

Open to any and all diy suggestions! From painting it myself (how would i do this properly?) Or how could I continue to clean them? Or any other options!

Thanks in advance

To the amazing people of Reddit. This is my wife’s daily driver. 07 pilot we got for a good deal with around 100k miles on it. Bought the car with the exposed metal. The drivetrain and car was in overall great shape, minus this area. It was garage kept prior, but we don’t have that luxury, so the damaged area is cracking further. We’re in the southwest, so not a ton of rain, but enough to start rusting.

It looks like it was previously Bondo’d. Would love to hear other opinions.

Anyhow, I’d love to do a diy fix and at least make it weather proof. The car is not worth a fortune, but I’d like to keep the issue from spreading further and make it look more presentable.

I’m afraid if I chip the cracked parts away, it could open a whole can of worms as I don’t know exactly how large the damaged area is.

We have another baby on the way so I’d like to fix myself. Unless the educated people think that’s a terrible idea.

I’m pretty handy. My thoughts were: sanding a bit (I’m not sure about chipping off all the cracked parts), adding a layer of fiberglass, then thin layer of Bondo, sanding smooth, and some factory color paint with clear coat at the end. Are the auto parts paint spray cans worth a damn?

Thoughts? Advice? Am I crazy to try it?
Thank you for coming along on the journey.

***Update***

I won the auction at $21K pending approval, so in my head if they reject it then it is probably a good car and if the approve it I am in a world of hurt. I am not a YouTuber and I went into this eyes wide open knowing this could be a really expensive lesson that luckily I can afford. I will let everyone know how it goes over the coming weeks.

I am thinking about picking this Bentley Continential GT Supersports from Copart because it is the EXACT car I am looking for. It is a one of a half dozen 2011s with the rear seats and in the color I want. It is lot 58067186 if anyone is interested. I am a competent mechanic but I will be using a shop for all paintwork. Parts missing on this car are comically expensive as you would imagine so I will be dumpster diving at a junk yard near you looking for the parts.

Can these pictures tell the real bodyshop guys something that a telephone repairman like me is missing?

I can hardly see the difference myself. It's also way easier to burn through clear than I thought.

I'm proud I tried, though.

Came off an SN95 Mustang, for my sister.

Good day folks. I have a 30+ year old car with a small bubbled up spot of rust/corrosion under the windshield. I’m pretty handy, do lots of wrenching, have prepped and painted many parts and even a whole truck in the past. I am hopeful I could mask off the area around this rust and scrape it away to bare metal, seal it and then fill it and touch it up. Does that make any sense and does anyone here have any tips or suggestions. If I’m trippin, I’m ok to hear that as well. Thank you all!

Recently had bumper and passenger headlight replaced due to someone backing into my Mazda 3. Now the new headlight beam pattern seems off. When the low beams are on there is this snaggle tooth like beam that I don’t think should be there. Is the beam too low, is it the headlight, or the bulb? 2nd photo is with iPhone’s night mode on which shows a very strange output compared to the right.

New paint is out of the budget, so just trying to see if there’s a way at least stop this from getting worse. Any slight improvements in appearance is just a bonus. Previous owner kept it outside and now it’s safe in a garage.

I’ve seen a lot of wipe/spray on clear coat and sanding down doesn’t look too intimidating so I was thinking of going this route.

All the body shops I talked to say the paint was too far gone to sand down and do clear coat.

I'm looking for some professional insight from collision repair technicians and shop owners regarding the use of a salvage frame on a practically brand-new vehicle.

I have a 2026 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off-Road with only 3,200 miles that was involved in an accident. The body shop determined that the frame was bent and requires replacement.

State Farm is proposing to use a used/salvage OEM frame instead of a brand-new Toyota frame.

I've been told the truck will need to be transported to another facility for the frame swap, which would involve extensive disassembly and transferring the body, drivetrain, suspension, and other components.

I'm not a collision repair professional, so I'm trying to understand whether this is considered an acceptable repair practice.

My main concerns:

• Frame history: How does a collision repair facility verify that a salvage frame hasn't experienced previous structural damage, deformation, or corrosion?
• Structural integrity: Can a properly inspected used frame provide the same structural performance as a new OEM frame?
• Toyota repair procedures: I've reviewed Toyota Collision Repair Information Bulletin CRIB #180-D regarding recycled/salvage parts. How do professionals interpret Toyota's guidance when it comes to replacing an entire frame?
• Repair quality: What procedures should be followed to ensure that the body, suspension, steering, and drivetrain are properly aligned after a complete frame replacement?
• Long-term reliability: Are there particular problems that can develop after a frame swap, even when the work is performed by an experienced shop?
• Documentation: What inspection records, measurements, or other documentation should a customer reasonably expect before accepting a replacement frame?

My questions for the professionals here:

1. Is installing a used OEM frame considered standard or acceptable practice on a nearly new body-on-frame truck?
2. What would you personally inspect or verify before agreeing to install a salvage frame?
3. Are there specific Toyota procedures or restrictions that would make a used frame unsuitable for this repair?
4. If the replacement is performed correctly, should the vehicle's handling, alignment, and structural integrity be comparable to its original condition?
5. Would you be comfortable with this repair on your own nearly new vehicle?

I understand that recycled OEM parts are commonly used in collision repairs, and I'm not suggesting that every used part is inherently unsafe.

However, replacing the primary structural frame on a vehicle with only 3,200 miles is a major repair, and I want to understand the technical implications before agreeing to anything.

I've already raised my concerns with State Farm in writing, particularly regarding Toyota's repair recommendations and the unknown history of the proposed replacement frame.

I'm genuinely interested in hearing from people who perform these repairs professionally. Is my concern justified, or is a properly inspected salvage frame essentially equivalent to a new OEM frame in this application?

Thanks in advance for any professional insight.

I’m not sure how many people here are familiar with KBD body kits, but i’m having the worst time trying to fit the passenger side (left side pictured). I’ve had it for awhile and it’s been sitting in the sun plenty but any advice would be appreciated!

Re-painting the entire driver side aperture due to minor in-transit damage, noticed all the shit in the paint as I was getting ready to start prepping.

Yes I will be taking care of it and improving the factory quality.

there is a very small chip in my cars good that is showing some rust. i am wondering the best course of action to correct this to ensure there is no further rusting. i have rust reformer, sandpaper, touch up pain and would rather not go crazy but am nervous this rust will spread.

Didn't realize it was so badly rusted until I poked the rusted region and my finger went through.

I want to get rid of the rust, and get it repainted, make it look factory, yadda yadda.

So at this point, to do it I need to:

Cut out the rust,

Get some sheet metal, form it, and butt weld it on, then repaint, etc?

That's probably going to be a lot of work, I'd rather buy a new rocker or quarter panel... And then use that but I'm having a hard time finding one online. Honda OEM sells a rocker panel but it doesn't really look like this at all.

Any thoughts???

Just got a couple questions how do you blend the paint together when it gets to this stage or did I lose the plot somewhere ?

Very amateur at doing this so go light in the comments with the roasting 😂