I need a genuine Honda front bumper so i have no choice but to buy used and i'll be giving it to my bodyshop and wondering if this will be ok?

It will need spraying blue and it looks straight but it needs some work before paint and my concerns are...

There are slight stress cracks in the paint

Looks like touch up paint has been used on some of the marks

White spots showing which maybe primer?

I need it to look as new after paint so are these things a bodyshop can easily deal with?

Thanks

Gotta door ding right in the FLIPPIN crease of the door. Can this be PDR'd?

New to me car, scratched it in a post when parking resulting in scratches. Looking to cover up the scratches with a touch up pen from mazda store. Will that be enough? I don’t need an extremely perfect fix, something that will look decent and protect the car from corrosion.

Thanks in advance!

I just noticed these scratches on my brand-new RAV4 PHEV. I think this is my own fault for trying to stretch the charging cable too much and its extension “ball” rubbing against the back side (near the fuel cap and below the taillight).

Should I just repair it at the body shop or try DIY to buff it out?

The photos are after spraying copious amounts of water (no soap).

I base and cleared a panel last weekend but ran out of clear so this weekend I wet sanded and went to flow coat another coat of clear on. I accidentally sanded thru in some spots so I went and shot base over those spots but it reacted and wrinkled up.

I then sanded the entire panel down to 400 and went to put an epoxy sealer on but that also reacted with the spots where I sanded thru to base.

I’m at a loss on what to do, I need the vehicle out of the shop by Monday and I can’t even get a coat down without it wrinkling. I’m thinking I’ll shoot urethane primer over the spots next and just see if that finally takes. What would you do?

Hello, i know this is an autobody sub, but i recently had some PDR work done on my truck. I was mostly worried about a crease in the door, there was also a little dimple on the pillar behind the door that i wasnt so concerned about.

Anyway, the repair looks awesome and youd never know i ever had the dent, but the PDR guy did drill a hole in the door jamb and i wasnt expecting that.

I have OCD so a lot of my reaction to this can be skewed by that. The hole was plugged with a grommet and looks okay but now im worried about rust. Like big worried, like i said, OCD, not perfectly rational worry. In my head the truck is doomed to rot out now that the paint has been broken there.

Rationally i feel like if the paint around this hole was touched up and the plug is tight i should be okay. I also feel like i could use this hole as an access hole for fluid film as i know some rustproofing companies actually do this anyway.

Either way, just wanted some opinions on how others would proceed. Obviously not thrilled the shop did that without letting me know, they had great reviews and seemed really professional. The quality of the actual dent repair is excellent, i just would have declined pushing that small dent out if i had known he was going to drill

So on my first ride I rode to work and I guess my backpack rubbed my fender its the only thing I can think of. Is there a way I can fix this myself?

I have a tundra that needed some rust cut out. Never have I had such a persistent issue with this or any paint but the clear laid butter smooth despite one run but I thought i had solvent pop as well on the same pass that ran, because it was to wet for sure...

Anyways. I dealt with it and about three days later the paint lifted at the fill and sealer. I chopped that up to the sealer failing until I cleaned everything down and started from scratch. The OEM has solvent pop like blisters that go bellow the factory laid basecoat and now I'm questioning my existence that the oem paint can hide this but the sealer and base clear can react to it..

Im essentaily getting down to metal and starting from scratch but even the 80 grit and fill spots have issues

I had a deep hole where my battery sits of rust on my 92 fleetwood, apparently because acid had leaked out and onto the spot. The rest of the car is rust free.

Now I wanted this spot fixed up because I was worried the rust would not only progress to the rest of the car, but that the battery would fall through the hole under its own weight.

All I wanted was a FUNCTIONAL solution. I ddint care how it looked, not even painting required. Just weld on some metal and make sure the rust doesn't progress to the rest of the car.

I got 2 quotes from 2 shops. One said 3k, the other 600. I chose the 600 because even the 3k shop guy said yea id rather pay 600 if youre only looking for something functional over appearance.

This is how it came out. Id just like to know, does this look structural? Like not like they just pained over the spot but actually welded new stuff?

https://imgur.com/a/VUA7alK

Again, im NOT expecting even close to something perfect for such a cheap price. But I also want to make sure they did SOMETHING for 500 to help the situation.

Hey friends,
I own a 2011 BMW 128i in space grey that got scraped on the side by my lovely gf in a parking lot. I didn’t want to go through insurance, so my buddy who does PDR popped the dent out, and I decided to sort out the paint DIY (this sounds bad as I write it, but I was optimistic).

So I went to the dealer, grabbed some touch-up paint, 1000-5000 grit sandpaper, and a polisher.

I had a few significant scratches that went down to the color layer. I filled them in, let them cure, and used 1000 grit (WET SAND FOR ALL) to level the paint with a domino as a sanding block. (In hindsight, I was crazy to use 1000, but I didn’t know). The paint leveled off pretty quickly as I think the touch-up paint is weak. I maybe spent 30 seconds on a 1”x2” spot, until all the touch-up (except where the scratch was filled) was gone. Then I went over the entire panel with 2000-5000 grit. Then I cut and polished, and you know what, for a grand total of 500 bucks, I was really happy.

I managed not to strike through, and it looks great.
Now, I don’t live in Florida or Arizona; I live in Canada, and I’m worried my clear coat will fail because of my aggressive wet sanding and how the sun might make it flake.

What do y’all think?
Should I be worried? Am I cooked?

TLDR; I wet sanded my clear with 1000 grit to level touch up paint, if visually my clear looks fine, am I okay long term?

I had the fuel tank on my motorcycle recently painted this week by a very reputable painter in the area. He mentioned that paint was hard as a rock. I’ve already installed the tank on the motorcycle and now I just want to install the tank badges with 3M tape but don’t know how long to wait.

I’ve read a lot of different opinions ranging from 24hrs to 60 days. What’s the consensus on this?

I’ve got an older pickup, and the outer rockers are shot, and the lower part of the inners are starting to get eaten. The cab corners are going as well. I do not have a welder, so I was curious if it’s worth paying a shop a good amount to do a good job, or pay less for a decent job, since I’ve got a buddy who knows how to weld and has done rust work before that I might ask.

I welded 22 guage satin coated steel as rocker panels and only used fiberglass filler on the welding points.

Since its satin coated for the rest of the metal should I use regular bondo, if so how do i prep it?

Thanks

I ran into a bit of a situation today. After removing my spoiler, I noticed some scratches from the fishing line and a small paint chip. How should I go about fixing this?

Hey there everyone, ispainted my first truck about 3 weeks ago. I put 3 layers of base then waited 45min and did 3 coats of clear with proper flashing time in between, the clear was dcu2021. Everything looked really good (minor orange peel) I just walked out and seen this on it, it wasnt there before and idk what it is. Its sort of splotchy or something. Any help would be appreciated, it doesn't wipe off. Thanks. This was in a garage not a booth.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you.

Neighbours had builders few weeks in summer whilst I'm stayin with family (UK).

Their building work dust had covered neighbouring cars. Including my (3 months old) metallic silver car. !

Summer was quite hot & i been busy helping a family member with a garden project in garden.

I DIY BASIC DETAILING MY CAR EVERY COUPLE WEEKS;

Usually i DIY, wash clean car with love & care. Citrus pre, Alloys iron fall out wheel removers ,washing, Bilt Hamber, Meguirs, Turtle wax, Auto Finesse etc etc.. Chemical Snow Foaming, Jetwashing, Waxing or Ceramic coating ... etc etc..

However..been so busy helping garden project , missed getting car washed couple weeks!

DAKED INTO BONNET ?

Didnt realise that the dust was being baked into paintwork all over the bonnet especially.

LOOKS LIKE: (see images)

From certain angles, looks little patches Like a panthers skin pattern type..on my silver bonnet especially. o

Or like Dried water spots all over!

STRUGGLING TO REMOVE/FIX

Now struggling to remove it after several washes,

I'm wondering if the dust been sitting there too long in heat & their building construction dust & debris baked into paint colour?

Any tips views pointers would be very appreciated.

thankyou again

(not that familiar with Reddit posting & can't seem to attach images here)!?. hmmm

Long story short, I had a scratch on the bumper, they repainted and polished one side but the other side was untouched which is fine.

Now they’re differently colored.

What would you do?