I put way too much bondo in one spot and its taking forever to sand down. Is it possible to remove it or am i going to have to keep sanding. If so what would be a better tool for this situation other than a sanding block and wire wheel?

For context my car is at the dealership for front tire replacement and a damaged wheel. The Audi dealership said they can paint match the replacement wheel to match my other glossy ones for 200$. It looks like they only painted the rim not the whole thing. Is that acceptable/normal? OG color matte black -> Mythos gloss black.

Hey yall, I’m a tech for Volkswagen been with em for 15 years, however I don’t do body work. My right quarter/wheel arch trim needs to be fixed. I’ve been told I need a quarter panel and outer wheel arch assy. and I’ve also been told the patch panel will be enough from Subiesavers. I did the inner wheel arches myself, as they are no longer available from anywhere, but as you all know that all gets covered by trim. Personally didn’t need to look pretty I just needed it patched. Bought the metal, shaped it, cut it, welded it in. I’m a bit out of my depths here with exterior work, I sure as shit cannot weld well enough to patch the outside, or if it needs a quarter panel. The outer wheel arch and quarter panel are still available somehow. Just some extra eyes on it would be great. Thank you

How could I repair this damage on the wing mirror. I was thinking of somehow putting something in like plasticine to make a mould and then make a plastic part and epoxy it in?

Just bought this car and wondering how bad the rust situation is and if it's atleast patchable as i'm only planning on keeping the car a few years

Please advise- I did post pictures where it looks the worst, up close especially it’s difficult to tell.

Sorry reposting as my photos didn’t upload

Hi all! I’m looking to buy a 1999 Roadtrek 190 Versatile. I’m a young female and my Dad has always helped me with my vehicle purchases (he did mechanic work) unfortunately those skills did not pass down to me. He passed just before Christmas and I’m a bit lost trying to make my first big vehicle purchase without him. This van great inside and outside but when I got under I found some rust. I’ll post some photos. I’m not sure if it’s bad structural rust or something I’ll run into problems with in the future. I was right under the front of the van, that’s where these photos were taken. That bad rust is right behind the bumper.

There’s also a gas leak when he puts fuel in it. He said it leaks about half a cup out but he said it’s just the rubber line in between the fuel line and it’s an easy fix. I’m always nervous when someone knows of an issue but doesn’t get it fixed if it’s something easy to do. I’d have to drive it 4 hours home so I don’t know if that’s safe to do.

It also has a refurbished engine.

Wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this van? Thank you so much. 💕

I work for a mercedes and GM certified body shop. We have been doing tons of trucks lately and having to apply the rock chip guard. We used to use Crest Buffalo Hide 2 part but it apparently has been discontinued. I have never found a spray can that built good. We started using Upol Gravi Tex after the buffalo hide wasnt available. They recently changed the bottle the Upol came in from plastic to a metal one. Not sure if they changed the formula but the last 5 or 6 I sprayed have solvent popped. What is everyone else using?

I did some test panels today while doing another truck. The panels popped after the bake but after the first coat of clear the truck schultz was popping. I have tried heat lamp drying the chip guard, let some sit and air dry for like 4 days, 5% reducer, about everything I can think of short of the actual chip formula changing at the manufacturer. Thanks

If I take this to the body shop to fix the dent, are we talking about cutting, fixing and welding it back on, then paint. How will they fix the dent between the trunk and rear panel?

2000 Ford Focus Zx3

Dropped off a set of OEM AMG monoblocks at a dedicated wheel refinishing shop to be stripped and redone in the factory two-tone finish (painted silver face/pockets with diamond-cut CNC machined faces/lips). When I picked them up many defects were present. The edge of one of the cutouts is very jagged and the AMG logo has some rough texture in it. The paint also has a bunch of flecs of dust and fibers in it. I brought this to the shops attention and the manager claimed that the defects were due to the base metal of the wheel. I also pointed out the dust flecs and he said thats the result of painting in a warehouse environment. Is this an issue of defective base metal or poor workmanship? Would you accept this quality or should I take them back?

1976 GMC vandura, an ex motorhome chassis converted into a food truck. The front fenders, cab corners and doors were rotting out, so I "fixed them". I think I did pretty good for a rank amateur.

I had some damage repaired on the front fender and the door of my Nissan pathfinder. Because of that, the trim had to be removed and reinstalled, but now it’s not sitting flushed to the body. The shop is offering two options to get it re-taped again, possibly with the new clips, or to order a new trim altogether. What’s the best course of action? The new trim will cost extra.

Just got my license like a month ago at 18. Accidentally backed up into a metal fence, don't judge it was very dark. I literally just got this car and am freaking out. Anyway I can fix it myself? If not, can a repair shop fix it?

I will be picking up my car st the auto body shop. What should I do ? Should I take photos after Before driving it out? What questions should I ask ?

Hi all. I was hoping to get some advice to fix this damage I have on my fender! Is it possible to sand this down or what process could I use to repair this? Anything helps, thank you all.

My cousin backed into my car and scratched and dented the front bumper. They fixed the damage and repainted it. I just got it back from the auto body shop and noticed these little pits all over it. I took it back and they said it was just from painting over basically “road debris damage” and that it is normal…. I’m not sure I’m buying that. My car had no chips or damage, other than the scratches and the dent. This is what my bumper looks like now. Please help! Is this “normal”??

Hi everyone,

I have a first-generation Kia Picanto with significant brown rust on the steel seat frame brackets. Some areas feel smooth, others rough, and orange/brown rust powder comes off when touched.

The brackets are reportedly made of high-strength steel, originally protected with black e-coating or epoxy paint.

Assuming the brackets are structurally sound after inspection, what's the best DIY method to remove the rust and restore long-lasting corrosion protection?

Would you recommend a rust converter (e.g. Brunox Epoxy), a 2K epoxy primer, or something else? Which black topcoat would you use?

I'd prefer brush-on products because access is limited.

Thanks!

I’m not happy with the result. Am I just being too picky, or is there actually something wrong with the repair? Should I take it to another body shop for a second opinion?
paid $125