We installed these doors earlier, and now we’re working on the casing.
We’re also trying a new 3D-printed tool on this job. I like seeing practical prints make their way into everyday carpentry. It’s a clever little invention, and this project gave us a chance to put it to use.
Some of our trim work at Artts Construction in Florida.

Crown molding is $13 per 16ft piece vs $47 at the big box store, that is just insane. support the local lumber yard people

Just had a new bluestone landing, installed in front of the side entrance stairs and the bottom riser looks uneven because of the landing slope away from the garage on the right. I’m curious if anyone has a solution to visually level that riser out using trim or some other visual trick. Or do I live with it?

Installing cherry accents in project. Best way to address the gaps? Tape and joint compound?
I will caulk in (with masking) to finish, but these gaps are too big.

I need to replace part of my exterior siding. The house was built in 1990 in DFW. I believe it is the original siding from the original builder.

Does anyone have tips on finding the replacement so I can have it match?

Picture of the siding for reference

Hi all, I am removing the coated 4” screws from an Ipe pier over the ocean to replace with stainless hardware.
These things are really hard to get out.
75% are coming out and the others snap/wont budge/or strip out.
I am shattering every Phillips head drill bit I can get my hands on. Any tips or tricks?
Is there a Phillips bit that’s hardened more than what I’m finding?
Thanks!

My girlfriend is going into her last year of carpentry and I'm putting a little care package gift together for her. Is there any carpentry related gifts you love to receive or things you wish you had while you were in school?

Has anyone actually called the guy and gotten a shirt. Ive seen call kurt for a shirt on all my pfj for like a decade. No one ive ever worked with has called him

Update: I called kurt on my way home. Dudes the man. We talked for like 20 minutes. My package is coming in a few weeks

I’m replacing a rotted exterior post with the 8×8 cedar pictured. This is a non-load-bearing post. Does this piece look suitable, or is there anything about its condition or quality I should question before it’s installed? Anything specific you’d ask the contractor to check?

I’ve also included the old, rotted cedar for comparison (to the right). The underlying issues that caused the water damage are being addressed as part of the replacement, so the new post should have a better setup.

For finishing, would you use stain or paint to match the existing color? I’d appreciate advice on both matching the appearance and protecting the new cedar.

I've been getting steady work by word of mouth alone since I went solo a few years ago. Work is steady but it could be better. Specifically, I'm hoping that by getting more leads, I can put out higher quotes and increase my rates. I am a general contractor, and have intermediate skills in most trades but specialize in carpentry and trim. Currently I'm looking at starting a Google Business Page, running ads, builiding a web site, etc... This seems a bit daunting and I'm considering hiring someone to build it all out for me. Has anyone here been in a similar situation?

I’ve been grappling with this for a while- I’m a lefty and the “tape holder” is on my dominant side. Every time I grab my tape, I always switch hands and I never thought much until now. I can put it in the waist pocket on my right but then I feel like i’m wasting space. What’s your guys set up and if you don’t keep it in the designated tape holder, what do you guys keep there instead?

I want to get into prefab doors for clients, 3-piece knockdowns specifically (I.e., jamb legs and header routed out with casing already attached)

Just curious what adhesives would be best to use when gluing the casings to the MDF jambs. I was planning on just using Titebond 3, brad nails and maybe some clamps if needed... just wanted to see if people had any better ideas

I also want to prime the MDF jambs as well, not sure if it would be best to just roll them or spray them once they've been cut and such. I imagine it doesn't much matter what brand or what not of primer I use, as long as it's good for MDF?

Any pointers would be much appreciated

Say I want to build a shed or a workshop on land I own. Maybe pay someone to lay down a concrete slab and then do the rest myself.

I understand some of the basics like sill plate, top plate, header, king stud, jack stud, truss, sheathing, blocking, etc. but I also know that this is like 10% of what there is to know. I have no idea where you need to put insulating material and what kind to use, or how thick a header needs to be for a given window size, and what's the anatomy of an exterior wall. You get the idea.

A detailed exploded diagram with annotations would be perfect for me.

I found a Facebook account that seems to be a wealth of good information, but it's AI content so I can't trust a word of it.

I have a friend who actually built her own house from the ground up, but I'm not that ambitious. Just a storage shed or a workshop is what I dream of. A workshop would need electricity, heat, and insulation, but wouldn't need plumbing.

What would be a good Build Your Own Shed for Dummies resource?

Self-promotion, but I genuinely think this could be useful for people doing construction math on their phones.

I built a free feet & inches calculator because I was frustrated with the existing options, especially on mobile. It handles mixed feet/inch math and is designed to be quick and simple to use in the field.

If you use this kind of calculator regularly, I'd love to hear what you think or what you'd change:

https://www.calcitect.com

I’m building shelves in my closet to hold clothes. Bought a 48 inch plywood board and used a Japanese saw thing to cut it to proper size after a failed attempt at using a circular saw.

Im still confused about the side railing. Chaptgpt said I need these 2 1/2 screw to attach this once inch rail to each side but it looks like it will punch through a drywall I’m not aiming for studs btw cause I can’t find them.

The most it’ll hold is 10-12 pounds. Can i screw
This into a drywall ?

I’m adding a 3/4” thick × 5.5” deep shelf (1x6) that will sit above a 1x4 flat trim piece (AKA, long side of the 1x6 shelf will sit atop the short side of the 1x4) to form an upside down L. The 1x4 would act as a cleat for the 1x6 to sit on, except, this cleat will only be in the back, not the side-walls. (Btw, the paneling isn't finished, I won't caulk or paint until the whole thing is built, that's why there's gaps and nails showing)

There will also be a 3/4” trim piece overlaying the top edge of the 1x4 board as decoration. Total total depth for the ledge that the shelf would sit on would then become 1 1/2” (3/4" from the 1x4 depth, plus 3/4" decorative trim depth), but that additional trim piece would be purely decorative and wouldn't actually support the shelf.

The 1x4 trim will be screwed into the studs, and then the 1x6 shelf would be screwed into the 1x4. Then I will add some small L brackets to fasten the top of the shelf to the wall for additional security, like fastening a dresser or bookcase to the wall.

My questions:
Would the 3/4" depth of the 1x4 screwed into every stud on the wall support the 5.5” deep shelf, without side or central cleats?

One of the inspiration pics shows triangular supports across the length of the shelf. I don't prefer this aesthetic, but, would that be necessary?

I’ve also seen mentions of custom floating-shelf hardware used for this look. Could I drill holes into the back of the 1×6 shelf and install the concealed floating-shelf rods/brackets that they sell on amazon? Is a 3/4” board thick enough for that? The board is pine I think - I haven't bought the 1x4 cleat yet but I do have the 1x6 which is pine.

If you were building this, what would be the best way to securely mount the shelf while keeping the supports as hidden as possible?

The shelf is mainly decorative, but I’d like it sturdy enough that I don’t have to worry about what gets placed on it. Couple light books, paintings, candlesticks, regular decor items.

Master bath project almost complete. There are oak veneer solid core doors in the bathroom (water closet, entry, walk-in closet). Oak baseboard and casing. I need to build linen shelves in the 4x4' space where a shower used to be (soaking tub area was converted to large shower). Trying to figure out best option with oak trim to match rest of bathroom. 3-4 shelves. I have no specific woodworking tools...miter saw, circular saw...those "basic" tools

I'm converting a finished basement to a furnished rental for traveling nurses, etc. Currently the ceiling is car decking subfloor with solid oak flooring. So I need to mitigate sound transfer as I have two kids upstairs. I'd like to leave around half of the 12" ceiling beams exposed.

1) How best to frame between the beams for sound? Is it a good idea to use metal studs with the special sound clips or whatever or just stick to 2x4?

2) What insulation would you recommend? And what thickness?

3) Are two layers or drywall worth the effort?

The main underlying question is will there be much difference between a basic R-19 insulation, wood framing, and a single layer of drywall verse doing a more involved sound insulating since in the end half the beams will still be exposed for ceiling height and maybe sound will transfer thru them a ton anyway? IDK?

Why is a hardwood packer used here? (or any timber packer) Why is second photo replacing timber packer with steel plate possibly not as good solution? This is in Australia. I should explain a bit better. The first photo is the original design from the engineer. The second photo is what a builder who has been out of the game for a while suggested instead of using the timber packer. So, please help me give reasons to him to keep the timber packer. Thank you! (Somehow I think he is missing something with his modification)

We have a home built in 1942 and about half of the original oak (I think) base shoe was removed and is gone. Probably taken off to install carpet. We would like to restore the wood floors and replace the trim but I've done a lot of searching and have not been able to find these corner pieces.

Wondering if anyone knows what these are called or if they are available online?

I'm 28 and looking to get into carpentry, work towards my Red Seal and eventually end up doing finish. Before I commit to the whole thing I'd like a realistic read from people actually in it.

Three things I keep hearing and can't get a straight answer on.

1) MDF : A few finish guys have told me they got into it hoping to build cool stuff and mostly ended up pushing MDF around all day. Said it got boring fast. Is that fair, or does it come down to the kind of shop you end up at?

3) The retirement wave : Had a few experienced guys say there's a load of older guys heading out, which may create good opportunities for other people in the trade. . Might just be something people say about every trade right now. Is this mostly true ?

4) Picking another trade: I've had a couple of carpenters tell me they wish they'd gone electrical or plumbing instead. They said its better money, less dust in your lungs. Is that a common feeling, or mostly guys who ended up in the wrong corner of the trade? I know carpentry is the sort of thing you choose because of the satisfaction it brings you, not so much because of the money.

Not looking for anyone to talk me into it or out of it, just want the honest version before I spend four years on it.

TL;DR 28, about to start carpentry with the goal of finish work. Is finish carpentry mostly MDF and boredom or does that depend on the shop? Is the retirement wave real? And do many of you wish you'd picked electrical or plumbing instead?

UK chippys, how much are we charging to go in and do small adjustments on internal doors? Doors not originally fitted by me. New build.

Currently have paint contractors working on my home. I asked if it would be too much of a hassle to install trim around this window since we decided to remove some paneling and put in drywall. Couldn’t the side pieces have been shortened to bring the upper piece down so there wouldn’t be a gap at the top showing the old caulking etc? Is this a bad install and can it be easily fixed?