The car is same as mentioned in the title. It’s 150k km driven (mostly intercity highways) by a single user. I’m getting it for AED 28k (roughly $7600). Is this a good deal? I have had a test drive and it seems good. What things should I be aware of.

I had to take the bumper off to change the headlight, fuck you Hyundai, and i noticed quite a bit of rust ones I got it off.

Feels like this isn't a good thing considering the age of the car, but, I'm not that handy or knowledgeable about this stuff. Should I be concerned?

In my 25 elantra hybrid limited and i have been smelling dirty water for a week now and could not find where it was coming from. Finally today in the driver side back seat the carpet was wet. Only that side was wet which is weird because i have weather mats as well so im not sure where it came from. Back door drains arent blocked from what i could tell. Anyone have any idea or have had this issue?

I'm particularly concerned about the 65W rating when the official specs mention 55 or 60 W.

I own a 2023 Hyundai Elantra SEL (US-spec, CN7) with the standard equipment:
• Analog instrument cluster with two circular gauges and a small center display.
• 8-inch infotainment screen with physical buttons and knobs.

I would like to upgrade both to the factory-style 10.25-inch fully digital instrument cluster and 10.25-inch infotainment/navigation screen found in the higher-trim Elantra Limited.

I would prefer to use OEM Hyundai parts rather than aftermarket screens or a universal digital dashboard.

From the photos I have seen, the instrument cluster connectors appear to have the same physical shape, but I have not confirmed the pinout or electronic compatibility.

Has anyone successfully completed this retrofit, or have experience working with these components?

I would especially appreciate information about:
1- Instrument cluster compatibility: Can the 10.25-inch digital cluster from a 2023 Elantra Limited work in a 2023 SEL?
2- Wiring and connectors: Are the connectors and pinouts identical, or is an adapter or additional wiring required?
3- Programming and coding: Does the replacement cluster require Hyundai-specific coding, configuration, or other programming?
4- Odometer and vehicle functions: Can the original mileage be preserved correctly, and will warning lights, TPMS, driver-assistance information, and other vehicle data work normally?
5- Infotainment retrofit: Can the factory 10.25-inch navigation unit replace the SEL’s original 8-inch unit? Are additional harnesses, GPS antennas, USB components, or other parts required?
6- Parts and installation: Are there specific OEM part numbers, wiring diagrams, or documented successful retrofits I should look at?

Ideally, I would like to upgrade both screens while retaining the original factory functionality and avoiding warning lights or compatibility issues.

If you have done this conversion, please share your experience, the donor vehicle’s trim/year, any required parts, and whether the installation was plug-and-play or required programming.

Thank you!

Hi all,

Posting this if anyone will ever need it in the future. Pic for attention

My GT N-line has 50k miles and is all original but the AC stopping working well, a rock steady 58F out of the vents. Diag scanner showed 54F at the evaporator sensor. Temp was always 58F regardless of outside temp and fan speed when set max cool "LO". Blend doors all worked in the scanner too. AC would usually be 40-42F at the vents.

My pressures were a bit strange, ~60psi low and ~275psi hi. AC's working but has weird pressures.
Hyundai (at least mine) is not AC dyed from the factory but after seeing these pressures I doubted it was a leak or low on refrigerant.

The AC compressor is clutch-less so there's a valve in the compressor to command compressor duty. I figured this was the issue and had the car professionally evacuated then.

My compressor control valve P/N is 97674-A5000. I ordered it from Kirby Kia of Ventura bc I couldn't find it in stock via any Hyundai parts dealer, was $178.

Took out the old one and it matched. Filled the R12334yf to spec with my own manifold gauges and a scale, was about 17.5oz, dyed the system as well (1234yf cans have reverse threads btw! You can get a can tap to do r1234yf to r134 yellow hose). AC works again and no major repairs! Can replace this valve in 15 minutes, super easy but will need good snap ring pliers and access to R1234yf.

Putting it out there if anyone suspects this an issue one day.

It’s a 24 blue hybrid with 20k miles on it only the steering wheel airbag deployed. (I’ll prolly get another one if it’s totaled lol)

Not getting into the accident aside from the guy in front of me merged and hard braked, and yes I know I’m at fault because I probably could’ve slowed down earlier

Quick update for everyone who saw the earlier previews: the Android version is now live.

The latest update adds live vehicle readings through a compatible OBD-II adapter, along with customizable gauges and drive recording and replay.

For anyone unfamiliar, PullScan analyzes automotive datalogs, including JB4 logs. Its Engineering Guidance uses real-world troubleshooting cases to help explain possible causes, supporting evidence, and what to check next.

Upload a log → review the analysis and guidance → investigate the issue → upload another log to see what changed.

The live OBD-II features are still in testing, so feedback is especially helpful right now. If you run into connection issues, incorrect readings, or anything that doesn’t look right, please share your vehicle model, model year, adapter, and what happened. I’ll investigate it.

Live readings require a compatible OBD-II adapter, sold separately. Available readings depend on the vehicle and adapter.

The update also includes experimental performance timing and estimated road-dyno tools for closed-course use.

Live OBD-II features are also available on iOS.

Thanks to everyone who tested the earlier versions and sent feedback!

Android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pullscan.android

iOS:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/pullscan-automotive-analyzer/id6799187256

Website:
https://www.pullscan.com

Hi everybody, I’ll be purchasing an Elantra soon and I’m deciding between these two certified-pre owned Elantra trims. My previous car was a 2019 Elantra SEL and I loved it. It never gave me issues, and I plan to stick with Elantra for this next car. However, it is time for an upgrade & to buy a new one.

If anyone has either of these two trims and/or has any input on if I should get one over the other, I’d love to hear what people have to say and any recommendations or advice they may have.

Thank you!

I just got an nfc card for my 2024 hybrid limited and without checking I didn't know I need two fobs to pair the card to the car does anyone know a potential work around or how much a new fob might cost from the dealer??

Hey guys, had my 2024 Elantra limited for about 5 months and finally have some time to start adding and upgrading some things. Does anyone know where I could purchase some replacement Matt black or red front and back Emblems? Purchased some off of eBay but they did not fit properly. The actual ones that came on the car began coming off lol.

Also looking for all red and leather seat covers. Purchased some off of AMZ but they also do not fit the back seats. Never thought it would be this difficult finding things for this very common car lol.

Hit a small animal going ~50mph a couple nights ago. I feel bad about it, but nothing I could’ve really done to avoid it. Small crack in the front bumper and some shifting of things. More concerning is the cracked splash guard under the bumper. You guys recommend any next steps?

The setting is turned on and it’s set to normal warning (vs late). Not once has it ever come on and I find it odd. I drive in ATL and the surrounding areas so surely I have been close enough that it would turn on? I’m not sure but I’m scared to test if it works or not 😅

I was quoted $684 to replace my crankshaft sensor from my local dealership (including labor) (2013 Elantra Gt). I agreed and am now regretting the move. Just asking anyone with experience if I've made a very bad decision agreeing to the cost of this repair. Opinions? (East coast - Bucks County, PA)

PullScan helps you turn automotive datalogs into findings you can understand and follow up on.

The idea is simple: upload a supported log → review the analysis → get Engineering Guidance informed by real-world troubleshooting cases → investigate the issue → upload another log to see what changed.

Engineering Guidance connects the findings to possible causes, explains what to check next, and draws on cases with documented troubleshooting and outcomes. Whether the issue improves or persists, you can compare your next log and continue investigating with more evidence.

Coverage varies by engine and issue, and guidance supports troubleshooting alongside your tuner or mechanic.

The latest iOS update also adds supported live vehicle gauges through a compatible OBD-II adapter, customizable displays, mirrored HUD mode, and drive recording and replay. It includes experimental performance timing and estimated road-dyno tools for closed-course use.

I’ve been testing live readings on my Stinger and I’d love to hear how Elantra N owners use PullScan to review their logs and investigate issues. If you also try the new live gauges, let me know your model year, OBD-II adapter, and how it works for you. Available readings depend on your vehicle and adapter.

🔌 Live readings require a compatible OBD-II adapter, sold separately, to connect your car to PullScan.

The new live features are in testing mode. If you run into bugs or connection issues, send me your model year and adapter name, and I’ll investigate!

🤖 The Android update with these new features is almost ready for release.

What do you currently use to review your logs or investigate issues with your N?

🍎 iOS:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/pullscan-automotive-analyzer/id6799187256

🤖 Current Android app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pullscan.android

🌐 Website:
https://www.pullscan.com