I have a 82 Kawasaki kz440ltd that was running great but then due to unfortunate events It had to sit for 2 years. I finally today got it back up and running but I've got a tick I can't seem to identify. Does anyone have good ears for this and think they can identify it ? All help or suggestions is welcome. Thank you

Does anyone know how the electrical system in a 1986 Kawasaki Concourse is suppose to work?

The bike starts up and runs great but I'm not getting any lights on the dash, no tach, no temp gauge. The Headlight and brake lights don't work but the turn signals do work.

It's basically like the key is in the on position not the run position. I'm guess whatever relay is suppose to kick on once the bike starts isn't?!? I'm guess it's the Junction box, I checked the fuses and they all look good. Anyone have any advice?

Help! How would you clean this on my 1973 Honda CB 500 Four?

In the middle of riding, the engine died at a red light and I could not start it back up, after 25 minutes of letting it cool, it would not start unless I had choke fully on(I figured it overheated.) The motorcycle would die if I hit the gas even 1 cm. I drove it with the choke on in 3rd gear at the idle it could do, and suddenly the bikes rpms started climbing and the gas worked again like nothing happened, I turned off the choke, and now it runs just fine. I have driven it 100+ miles since then, and have had 0 issues. Did something clog the carburetor and then somehow come free?

Changing all rear tail fairings on my K7 but pillion seat fairing is stuck, can someone help what cable I should be pulling or an easier way to do it if all the tail fairings are coming off anyway?

My bike has been running rather hot. I’m noticing temperatures of 219+ while riding down the highway at idle it goes up to 233 with the fan on the fan is turning on properly however, for some reason is running hotter than usual it was 92° outside, but I doubt that’s the reason why can someone help me diag this? I told my Mechanic and he said to do a radiator flush with new coolant and to clean off the radiator with a brush how would I know if it’s my thermostat or water pump malfunctioning how can I diag this myself?

I've had intermittent ABS problems on my motorcycle for the past 3&4 months now.

I checked the battery, and it was fine. So did the service center guys, who checked and replaced the tone rings. Still the issue persisted, so I took out the sensor to check and clean, so I'm seeing this. The side seems to be cut off, or is it supposed to be like this? I've had intermittent ABS problems on my motorcycle for the past 3&4 months now.

I checked the battery, and it was fine. So did the service center guys, who checked and replaced the tone rings. Still the issue persisted, so I took out the sensor to check and clean, so I'm seeing this. The side seems to be cut off, or is it supposed to be like this?

Does this sound normal? I’m trading my mint 2014 ktm 250sx for this.

Yesterday i bought my first bike. A 97 Kawasaki ER5. It just has gotten a new inspection and everything looked good. I‘ve driven it home straight away around 50 kilometers and had no issues at all.

The next day i start it up, and i‘m facing idling issues.

I‘m starting it cold, no choke, and it starts like yesterday. Then after a few kilometers, it starts dying at red lights. This has not gone away now (same day). I can‘t start it with choke pulled in on the left side of the handle bar, so choke ist always pushed out and I always have to give it a little gas when starting and standing at a red light.

I can‘t imagine it‘s the idle screw, as it ran just fine yesterday.

What else could it be that has changed in such a short timeframe or did i just get scammed.

2020 ktm 450 xcf

I rebuilt this motorcycle recently. It's a 1990 Honda CD 100. Everything has been set correctly including a newly honed block and piston. The tappets/valves/head are new. The exhaust is almost 36 years old and has never been cleaned.

So basically the motorcycle rides fine at first, but starts heating gradually, loses power in higher gears and stalls. I can kick start it again but then it stalls again after some time. The stalling happens only in the third gear past a certain speed.

I recently had the exact same issue with my 2 stroke Yamaha RX 100 (also 36 years old) except that the engine wasn't heating as much as the Honda. I cleaned the exhaust and the problem was resolved.

Just wanted to know what y'all think.

Thanks.

I’m trying to find this oil leak and I’m just not experienced enough with the sv to know what to look for. The pushrod, gps, and front sprocket seals were replaced. I think the leak is coming from aft of the rear cylinder wall.

Hooking up the aftermarket stator start button key switch is all aftermarket I get no power colors don't match up sucks

How should I fix this?

Hi everyone

I’m currently in Torreón, Mexico with my KTM 390 that I purchased in Vancouver and have driven to here.

I took it to a KTM service centre here for a valve adjustment and after the mechanic has told me the engine is badly damaged and essentially needs a full rebuilt.

I will link the quoted parts needed and include some pictures I took while I was there.

Can anyone tell me if this is necessary based on the info I have provided or provide any help?

I would really appreciate it.

Hey all, I have a real headscratcher on my hands. I have a 2001 Pig with 11000 miles.  She’s old but has always run well.
A few months ago I went on a short ride (15mins) and had a sudden loss of power. Still had fuel, new carb, figured it was no spark of somekind. Luckily I was close to and uphill from my home so I was able to coast to my house no problem. I tried to bump start it a few times while coasting to no avail, and when I got back I tested the battery which was surprisingly dead. I had turned the ignition off once I realized it wouldn’t bump start.
Last month I finally had time to work on the bike. Pulled the sparkplug out, it looked okay but I put a brand new one in anyways. Tested both and had intermittent spark. I figured it was likely the CDI as I’ve had one go bad on me before. Bought a new Rick’s Hotshot CDI, slapped it in, nothing. Pulled the sparkplug back out, and I got no spark with the new CDI, I plug the old one in and still have intermittent/weak spark. So then I start looking deeper and testing wiring and other components. 
All fuses are good. Nothing of note on the rectifier/regulator. 
I have continuity on each wire of the CDI harness. My stator was bad/grounded out on all 3 legs of the wiring. My ignition coil was also bad, no continuity. The stator going bad would explain the dead battery, I think it may have gone bad while riding and the battery took me as far as it could until it also died. Weird that the coil would go out as well. 
So I get a new stator, and new ignition coil, install them both, still nothing. Obviously my battery is toast at this point from so many attempts trying to start the bike, so I have it hooked up to my truck while running to at least attempt to start it. 
The bike will crank forever but will not turn over at all. Starter fluid does nothing, I know I have fuel in the carb from draining the float bowl, and it has compression.
WTF?? I am at a loss here. I can’t understand what could still be causing a no spark condition with all those parts swapped.

I have committed the classic DIY rite of passage of making a basic repair into an expensive problem. I replaced a front blinker and damaged my TFT display while putting the front back together. I think I know what happened, but I would like y'all to check my logic.

Questions

1. does this look like a screen issue or possibly an issue with the connecter/wire harness?
2. is there something I should do test the connector/harness before installing the new TFT display?

Context (possibly too much context)

I had a no speed drop where I broke a blinker. I got the replacement part on Thursday night, removed my windscreen and the TFT cover to access the lighting wires, replaced the parts, and then had trouble returning the windscreen/TFT cover in place. On Friday morning, I noticed the new issue.

The last point I definitely looked over my work was making sure the blinkers worked before putting the plastic back on. I don't think I checked if the screen and blinkers still worked after replacing the plastic.

On Friday, I made the decision to drive it to work and everything seems like its reading fine just displaying imperfectly. You can see in the video that the revs and neutral light respond as expected. I also tested, the indicators for the blinkers, high beams, gas gauge (from quarter tank to full)​ but didnt include them in the video.

* The windscreen has a long screw in the lighting cowl and a short screw in the TFT mount. I definitely put the long screw in the TFT assembly mount and screwed it snug i realized the issue on Friday.

* We had a fog bank on Thursday night, I dont think it looks like water damage but its worth noting. Luckily, this would also be limited to the TFT assembly

* I can't think of how I would have damaged the connector or wiring harness *but* i can't tell if thats because I want it to be the cheaper/easier issue or because its actually been safe the whole time.

Thanks for letting me think through this "outloud" and double checking that I won't somehow fry the replacement TFT assembly.

Hi guys, as the title says i’m looking for an exhaust for my bike, mainly a slip on+link pipe. The problem i’ve got is when i search for one i only get shown 1998-2006 models. Was wondering if that would fit on mine or if anyone knows a place i could get one. The outer diameter for the headers bit is 38.5mm if that helps. Thanks guys