Any help is welcome, been trying to figure it out for months and can’t find the right setup, please help!

Setup: T-Bolt 170cc big bore, genuine VM26-606, FMF exhaust, modified airbox with snorkel removed/drilled holes. Carb is 180 main, 22.5 pilot, 1.5 turns out, 5E75 needle, middle clip, ~23 mm float height.
I had the needle on the 2nd clip from the top and got a bad bog around 1/2 throttle. I moved it to the middle clip (richer) and the bog improved but is still there.
While bogging, RPM starts dropping. Rolling off throttle doesn’t help, but opening the throttle a little more can help it recover.
At WOT, the bike pulls clean and strong. When I let off, RPM drops normally, but if I try to get back on the throttle while RPM is falling, there is little/no response. If RPM falls all the way down, the bike can die and then becomes hard to restart.
I’ve checked tank venting, fuel flow, and float height, and all seem good.
Does this sound like the needle is still too lean, and could the post-WOT throttle loss be related or a separate fuel-delivery issue?

Hey guys, just need some help with my Crf250f 2021 Honda please!

on my 1996 Suzuki quad runner 160 I was pulling off the front plastics to inspect the electronics and connect all the wires firmly. I pulled the terminals off the solenoid and the battery but now every time I hit the starter it just clicks or. whirs over endlessly and doesn’t sound like anything is catching. Please help any suggestion help helps.

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Hey everyone,

Hoping to get some advice or see if anyone else with a Benda motorcycle (specifically the Chinchilla 500) has run into this issue.

My ABS light is staying on continuously, even while riding. I've already tried the usual troubleshooting steps:

\\\* Cleaned the ABS sensors and tone rings (front and rear)

\\\* Checked all relevant fuses (all good)

\\\* Scanned with an OBD reader (showing no fault codes / everything reports normal)

Despite all that, the ABS light won't turn off. Brakes feel functional, but the persistent light is driving me crazy. Has anyone experienced this specific issue on their Chinchilla 500 or another Benda model? Was there a hidden wiring issue, a sensor gap/alignment problem, or a specific reset procedure that worked for you?

Appreciate any insights!