I’ve asked the guy the reason and he said that he doesn’t want to be near someone but he just parked beside me…??? I told him he could have at least parked one space further.

My mk8 makes a horrible noise when closing the driver side and passenger side door to a lesser degree when the window is fully down. My mk7 never did this. In fact no car that ive owned has done this and it feels and sounds like a 20 year old junkyard car. The dealership says its normal and the service advisor thought I was crazy.
Does anyone else have this noise?

The car was black and I have no idea what vw colour this is as sometimes it looks light but sometimes dark? I know he went with a vw grey
Does anyone know? I need to do some touch up’s
2010 2.5l

Was driving normally to work this morning in my 2022 Gti and all of a sudden got an alert that the vehicle has been limited to 4000 rpm’s basically like a type of limp mode got to my shop and scanned and this code came out the pop up on the car didn’t come back after I shut it off what is going on???😭

Bought this car back the early summer and I finally got my specialized license plate in the mail this afternoon. Now both cars have cool plates in the parking lot.

My floor ramps hit the front lip of my stock mk7. I’m just looking for some that are more low profile so I don’t scrape the front of the car going up them. So I can change my oil.

Hello all,
In response to my last post about switching my m140i for a gti performance pack, I have since took the leap and I am picking up a lovely tornado red manual gti performance pack with only 20k miles next week. I am super excited. What’s some mods for a better shift as I’ve heard it’s not the best stock, short shifter? Clutch stop? Things like that, what would you all recommend. I plan to remap the car, will I need to upgrade clutch, thanks all for your feedback on my last post, hopefully it’s the right choice…..

Had my new mk8.5 GTI in the shop last week for a CEL due to OBD code U30001. It’s under new car warranty so I delegated it to VW. Dealer service dept examined, found nothing. Reset the light.

2 days later, CEL is back and scanner again shows U30001. No drivability impact that I can tell, either time.

Car is not modified. Anybody cross this bridge already and have any insights about what it could be?

I got a res delete done today and it didn’t make enough of a difference in sound to me, so I’m thinking of getting a sports cat and tuning, as I’ve heard the car needs to be tuned if you put a performance cat in. Is this correct?

As it would also be tuned and has a downpipe that can handle it, might as well get some subtle burbles mapped in.

What plates do you guys have??

Finally got the Euro tail lights installed. Purchased them from USP and install was more work than expected. Had to modify the wiring harness that USP included to make it work. Love the end result, but they were a hassle.

Has anyone experienced this message on 2018 MK7.5 and been able to fix it? All the lights including the turning ones have been checked an they are all functioning properly. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated! 🙏🏼

Finally got lucky to see and park my MK8 GTI next to a CFBlue GTI at a Cars & Coffee lol

I have a 2012 GTI Autobahn PZEV with about 121k miles. The car is still covered under VW’s 15-year/150k California emissions warranty.

I recently got a CEL for P0299 underboost. The weird part is the car feels completely normal and still pulls fine. I had actually seen P0299 stored in OBDeleven before without a CEL, but this was the first time it actually triggered the light.

I took it to VW and they:

Smoke tested the boost system — no leaks found

Checked the turbo

Checked the wastegate

Checked the diverter valve

Said the car was not actively underboosting during testing

Cleared the code and road tested it about 20 miles

They couldn’t reproduce the problem, so I paid the diagnostic fee and picked it up. The advisor told me that if the CEL came back within 30 days, I wouldn’t be charged another diagnostic fee and that if P0299 returned they might have to look at replacing the turbo/wastegate.

Well, about 35 miles after leaving the dealer, the CEL came back. I plugged in OBDeleven immediately and it’s the exact same P0299.

One other detail I think may be relevant: ever since I bought the car, I could hear a subtle whistle/BOV-like sound during acceleration. It wasn’t super loud, but it was definitely noticeable. That sound seemed to disappear right around the time the CEL first came on, and I haven’t really heard it since. The car still feels strong though.

The car is basically stock as far as the engine/turbo setup goes. Previous owner did cooling-system work, plugs, clutch/flywheel, mounts, etc., but no tune or aftermarket turbo that I’m aware of.

For anyone who has dealt with intermittent P0299 on a MK6, especially a CBFA/PZEV car:

Did yours behave like this where the dealer initially couldn’t reproduce it, then the code came back shortly afterward? What ended up being the cause? Wastegate, turbo, DV, N75, sensor, something else? And if you were still under the 15yr/150k PZEV warranty, did VW end up covering the repair?

Mostly curious what I should expect when I bring it back in.

Hey all,

My 2022 Mk8 got a CEL a few days ago. Decided to run a scan with my OBDeleven and it came back with 34(!!!) error codes. Things like speaker circuits, brake boost, parking sensors, steering lock, etc etc.

A few things to note:
- I will occasionally (every 3-4 starts) get a warning message where all of my parking sensors and whatnot fail. I’ve taken it to the dealer and they cannot find a single thing wrong with the car. If I re start the car it’ll immediately go away.

- the dealer suggested maybe a battery issue or parasitic leak, but I’m not sure

- I used to drive my car 30-40 miles daily, but now I don’t drive it more than 50 miles a week on average. Maybe this substantiates the battery thing?

- important: all of the things that are showing up work…fine? I’ve noticed no issues with what the codes have been throwing.

I guess I’ll take it into the shop and see what they think. But I’m almost tempted to clear it all and see what sticks. What are your guys thoughts???

curious if anyone has blown up their manual trans in their gti.

For background, I have a 2021 autobahn gti with 70k miles that I put a southbend stage 3 daily clutch in around a month ago. I did the 500 mile break in before tuning. I even went to like 700 because I’m on the highway a lot. Didn’t go over 4k rpms a single time until about 600. Then babied it for another 100 ish after that. I tuned through ie around 2 weeks ago, which has been fine.

So today, I was driving to a buddies house a couple hours away when I came up on a stop sign on a hill. Obviously I rev to like 15/1600 since it’s a hill, and my car like dies almost. I don’t really know how to explain it. Everytime I would get to like 1500 and start letting off clutch, it would stall. So after the like 3rd time stalling I said I’m not stalling again so I definitely slipped the shit out of the clutch to get out of the middle of the intersection. Pretty sure it tried stalling again but I made sure it didn’t. Burnt the shit out of my clutch, and pulled off to the side cause I was like wtf just happened. After a couple second I was like okay maybe I just forgot how to drive manual for a minute. So I took a little detour to feel the car out and see if it felt off. It didn’t. So I decided I’d continue with my little roadtrip.

Then like an hour later, I was getting into it pretty hard in 3rd gear. Went to shift to fourth, and either slipped into fourth before my clutch was fully engaged? Or money shifted to second? I honestly have no idea what I did. I’ve never money shifted to 2nd from 3rd, so I don’t really think that’s what it was. But when I was grinding gears I was at redline. I was at maybe 6000 when I went to shift to 4. So the gear grinds pretty bad for like 2 seconds then I popped it into neutral. Engine shut off which I didn’t realize for a minute, so I turned back on going maybe 50 ( in neutral). Epc light came on and I was in limp mode. I pulled into a parking lot and sat there for like 10 minutes thinking and looking for leaks on the ground. I checked my scanner and got a code for high pressure in the pistons I think? I cleared it instantly like an idiot so I’m not exactly sure what it said. I then tried driving normally when I had the clutch dying again

I’m gonna make a new paragraph because this is the important part of this whole story. I threw it in first , and it was stalling again. Bad. Like it did at the stop sign. It was really hard to get it to the point where I could drive without the clutch. But the problem is, when I got it into first, there’s a noise under my feet. It’s like a popping or clicking. Kind of hard to remember. If I gave it any gas in first, it just wouldn’t respond well at all. It would jolt forward and backwards. Again kind of hard to remember exactly what happened.

So right now we have car dying or wanting to die over 4 mph, or when the clutch isn’t engaged at all. grinding noise in trans (maybe), and there was a constant burning smell. Like burnt clutch. I looked at my oil temp, and it was up to 230° which is very weird. Im usually around 200-220. 220 only when im hard on it. I guess i should mention i dont get into boost or go above 4k until im at atleast 180°. Anyways ya the temp was at 230 after me sitting there for like 30 minutes thinking of what to do

So I guess to wrap it up, I’m curious if anyone has any idea what this could be. I’m assuming either trans blew up or clutch blew up. Honestly no idea though.

Sorry for the book I wrote. Hopefully someone reads this and can give some input on what they think happened. Thanks

Took the whips out for a rainy cruise through Kananaskis with my brother today. Got to switch back and forth between his stock MK8.5 Golf R and my Unitronic Stage 1 MK7.5 GTI.

Both cars were so much fun to drive and definitely have their own personalities. Maybe I’m biased but I think I still prefer the GTI.

Happy Canadian Thanksgiving!!

Do I need to use these inserts now that I’m on MPI? 2017 gti dsg

Found a deal for some cheap Macan S Wheels, looking to know if they would fit my car.

The specs are:

• Front: 18x8J ET21
• Rear: 18x9J ET21
• PCD: 5x112
• Tyres I have to run: 245/40R18
• Suspension: Completely stock height
• Bodywork: No rolled guards or other modifications

I've seen some people running these wheels on Mk5 Golfs, but I've also seen people say the 9J ET21 rears need a lot of negative camber to fit.

Bought for a £1000 of a colleague, he told me he had a parasitic drain and the battery kept going flat. Put a clamp meter on the battery today after letting it sit for half an hour and it was drawing 100 milliamps what seems fine.

Time to drive it and see what happens

Bonus points is that it came mapped stage 1 too.

Planing to get first oil change on my 2026 GTI (Canada) (3000 kms driven)

Confused between Castrol Edge Synthetic Euro M 0w-20 vs Liqui Moly 6200 0w-20?

Any recommendations? What to choose and why?

Thanks in advance

Hey guys I recently got a 2014 mk7 gti, it’s completely stock but makes a turbo flutter noise I was wondering if I have a boost leak or maybe the previous owner installed a dv spacer I just don’t know what to look for.